hp 



THE 

BOOK OF THE ROSE 




Shower Bouquet, exhibited by Mrs. Orpen. Frontispiece. 



\ 




THE 

BOOK OF THE EOSE 



BY 

EEV. A. F08TER-MELLIAE, M.A. 

HECTOR OF SPROUGHTON, SUFFOLK 

WITH TWENTY-NINE ILLUSTRATIONS 

3J3 3 3 333 3 3 H 3 , 3 > 1 3 3 3 ) 

I ° '• ;) 00° 93 O ^ O 3 

5 5 3333 3 O .3 .3 1 O > .3 ,3 3 ' e 3 3 < 

9,2 • ' 3 * 5> * 3 1 3°o° ) °, J , , 1 , D » .} 

Eontion 

MACMILL AN AND CO. 

AND NEW YORK 

1894 

The Eight of Translation and Reproduction is Reserved 



S3 4-1 1 



Richard Clay and Sons, Limited, 
london and bungay. 



• • • • •< 



PREFACE 



It seems right to make some sort of apology, as most 
of my predecessors have done, for putting forth another 
Rose-book when there are already so many ; but per- 
haps it is not really required, as the columns devoted 
to the subject every week in horticultural literature 
show that there is ever something fresh to be said on 
the different matters connected with the Rose. 

My idea was, in the first place, to give, from an 
amateur, full details of practical culture for amateurs 
from the beginning to the end : and I ought to be able 
to do this satisfactorily even if I have not succeeded, as, 
under unfavourable conditions of soil and situation, 
I have done with my own hands every portion of the 
work, from raising and establishing the stocks to carry- 
ing off a champion challenge cup at the Crystal Palace. 
Secondly, to give such descriptions of the best known 
Roses as should tell of their faults and bad habits 
as well as of their good qualities and perfections, 
since I have good reason to believe a record of this 
sort will be welcomed. And thirdly, if possible, to 
make a readable as well as useful book : under no 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER I 



INTRODUCTION 1 

CHAPTER II 

HISTORY AND CLASSIFICATION , 6 

CHAPTER III 

SITUATION AND SOIL 28 



CHAPTER IV 

PLANTING : WITH LAYING OUT OF THE REDS AND PROTECTION 43 



CHAPTER V 

MANURES 64 

CHAPTER VI 

PRUNING 84 

CHAPTER VII 

§TOCKS , . 101 



CONTENTS 
CHAPTER VIII 



PAGE 

PROPAGATION ... 119 

CHAPTER IX 

PESTS 142 

CHAPTER X 

ROSES UNDER GLASS . . ; 171 

CHAPTER XI 

EXHIBITING 182 

CHAPTER XII 

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 211 

CHAPTER XIII 

SELECTIONS 309 

CHAPTER XIV 

CALENDAR OP OPERATIONS 321 



LIST OF ILLUSTKATIONS 



TO FACE PAGE ^ 

A shower bouquet Frontispiece 

MR. B. CANT'S ROSE FIELD 12 

AYRSHIRES AS A ROSE HEDGE 20 * 

ROSE SPRAY — POLYANTHAS 25 '/ 

MR. A. H. GRAY'S ROSE GARDEN 45 

A WEEPING ROSE AYRSHIRE 93 

MARECHAL NIEL IN GREENHOUSE 96 

ROOTS OF STOCKS 105 " 

CATERPILLAR HIDDEN ON SHOOT 145 

FIRST APPEARANCE OF MILDEW 160 

STANDARD ROSE (U. BRUNNER) IN POT 176 

DWARF ROSE (P. PERRAS) IN POT 181 I 

A WINNING TWENTY-FOUR CUP STAND 208 'S 

A "divided" rose ' 214 / 



xii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

TO FACE PAGE 

DUKE OF WELLINGTON 229 

ECLAIR 231 

GUSTAVE PIGANEAU 237 

JEAN SOUPERT 242 I 

MARGUERITE BOUDET 254 / 

MARIE VERDIER 256 ' 

MRS. JOHN LAING 259 " 

PRINCE ARTHUR 263 

ULRICH BRUNNER 269 ) 

CLEOPATRA 277 V 

MADAME CUSIN . 291 ( 

MADAME DE WATTEVILLE 292 

MARECHAL NIEL 297 * 

THE BRIDE . 307 

THREE BUTTONHOLES 317 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAPTER I 

INTRODUCTION 

It is a common saying that the love of flowers is 
universal ; and it is not surprising, seeing that the 
tendency of the age is to subdivide occupations and 
interests and make men specialists in smaller branches 
of subjects, that certain flowers have been selected for 
cultivation by persons who have given all their leisure, 
or even the whole of their time, to the study of them. 
As the Rose has been entitled the queen of flowers 
without serious dispute for nearly twenty-five centuries, 
special subjects of such a queen may naturally be 
looked for; and they may be found among such as 
style themselves Rosarians, who endeavour to cultivate 
the Rose in such a manner as to get the finest and 
most beautiful blooms. 

One would naturally suppose that those who study 
and pursue this subject might be credited with a 
special knowledge of it at least, if not with some 
authority; but, oddly enough, a certain number of 
writers on general horticulture are never weary of 
recounting the errors and absurdities of Rose-growers 

B 



2 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



and, above all, Rose exhibitors. It is not so that I 
know of with other flowers ; the foremost prize-takers 
in chrysanthemums or auriculas, for instance, are at 
least supposed to know as much about the things 
necessary for the welfare of those plants as other 
people ; and in common life we do not find general 
physicians proclaiming the ignorance and absurdity of 
oculists, aurists and dentists in their several depart- 
ments ; yet the specialists of the Rose are frequently 
told by authorities in horticulture that their maxims 
and modes are erroneous and faulty. 

In Mr. Robinson's most beautiful book, The English 
Flower Garden, a fine example of this may be seen, the 
vials of his wrath being fully poured out upon the 
stupidities of Rose-books, and the general mistakes of 
Rosarians. We are a most harmless folk with no desire 
for recrimination, and I would only venture to point 
out that our aims and points of view are different. He 
looks upon the Rose as a decorative plant for the garden : 
I look upon the plant, in most cases, only as a means 
whereby I may obtain glorious Roses. 

Moreover, though some enthusiasts may think it 
heretical, I do not consider the Rose preeminent as 
a decorative plant ; several simpler flowers, much less 
beautiful in themselves, have, to my mind, greater 
value for general effect in the garden ; and even the 
cut blooms are, I imagine, more difficult to arrange in 
water, for artistic decoration, than lighter, simpler and 
less noble flowers. A good Rose should stand in a vase 
by itself as a queen should ; then let any other flower 
or combination of flowers rival her if they can. So, 
with all the best Roses I should not wish for or expect 
any general display at a distance, but come close and 
be content if I can find but one perfect bloom. 



I 



INTRODUCTION 



3 



For elegance in trailing blossoming beauty some of 
the best and most vigorous of the climbing Roses would 
indeed hold a high place among decorative plants ; but 
for masses of grand colour as viewed from a distance, no 
Rose effect can equal that of the rhododendrons ; and for 
unwearied continuance many ordinary bedding plants 
make a richer and more permanent display. No ; the 
value of the Rose is in the glory of its individual flowers ; 
and in these pages, at least, the idea is not the Rose 
for the garden, but the garden for the Rose. 

I write for enthusiasts, for those who make a regular 
hobby of their Roses, and think of them as fondly and 
almost as fully in January as in June. There are not 
a few such, even among amateurs, in all ranks, and 
some of them, much handicapped perhaps by soil, 
situation or circumstances, still retain their ardour 
though not meeting with much success. 

The man of business, who rises at daybreak to attend 
to his Roses before his day's work in the town ; who is 
quite prepared if necessary to go out with a good 
lantern on a November night to seize a favourable 
condition of soil for planting at once some newly- 
arrived standards or dwarfs ; and who later in the 
winter will turn out in the snow after dark to give 
some little extra protection that may be required for 
his beds : this is the sort of man for me, and for the 
Rose as well. 

I remember a certain occasion when a small shooting- 
party met for partridge-driving on a rather dismal 
bleak day in January. Two of the " guns," who lived 
some distance apart and did not meet very often, were 
continually drawing together and chattering away with 
the greatest enthusiasm ; cutting little bits out of the 
hedge and comparing notes with so much interest that 

B 2 



4 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



though both very fond of the sport, on more than one 
occasion the partridges flew by unheeded whilst they 
had strayed from their places. Said the host later on 
to one of his friends, " What on earth do you think 
A and B, who are generally so keen, had got of such 
importance to talk about together ? It was all about 
Roses!" 

It has been my pleasure, for some months, to receive 
very nearly every day by post as much and sometimes 
more than a penny stamp would frank, of letters from 
a gentleman whom I have seldom seen and with whom 
I have hardly exchanged half-a-dozen sentences by 
word of mouth. This too during the spring and winter 
time, and all about Roses ! 

It is pretty well known that another gentleman, with 
a passionate love for Tea Roses, left his home in Scot- 
land because he could not grow them there, and went 
searching for a place in Great Britain which should be 
suitable for their culture ; and, having found such a 
spot, at very great expense laid out and prepared his 
grounds to form, as they undoubtedly do, the finest 
amateur Tea Rose garden in the country. 

I may perhaps be excused for thinking that Rose- 
growing as a special pursuit and a hobby is particularly 
adapted for country parsons. No one can deny that it 
is as harmless a pursuit as any that can be found, and, 
without the least neglecting his sacred calling if his 
cure be a small one, he can find many half-hours of 
daylight leisure among his Roses, where his parishioners 
will soon learn to come and look him up at once if he 
should be wanted. It will afford him varied interest, 
exercise, and work in the open air all the year round. 
In tilling the soil, the special work which God gave to 
man, he will find many a valuable lesson, which he will 



i INTRODUCTION 5 

be able to tell, with authority and with much interest, 
to that majority of his unlearned parishioners who are 
themselves tillers of the soil. If there is no room in 
the parsonage garden, it is seldom indeed that some 
little piece of glebe cannot be taken in to be the pride 
of his heart and the focus of his midsummer hopes. 
And now that we are all so poor, and likely to be poorer 
still, there will be the more encouragement for him to 
do the Rose work with his oa\ti hands, and to summon 
the aid of his single useful man only at actual show 
time, for the carting of manure, or for pressure in 
planting. 

He will thus become a real amateur, a true son of 
Adam, and genuine brother of the back-ache, with 
many thorns in his fingers and rough and hardened 
hands ; but his Roses will be truly his own, he will have 
won them, and under the Creator will actually have 
made them himself. And not only will they seem to 
him brighter and purer and sweeter than any other 
Roses, but he will probably find, in comparison and 
competition, that they are better than those of his 
brother amateurs who do not personally attend to their 
plants; and it will be a great thought for him that 
other far richer men may have grand and glorious 
gardens, but that he in his humble little plot with his 
own hands raises some of the finest Roses in England. 



CHAPTER II 



HISTORY AND CLASSIFICATION 

The Rose is well known as the emblem of England, 
and when we consider how often it has unhappily been 
in conflict with the Lilies of France, it may seem 
strange to find a large though decreasing proportion of 
our Roses endowed with French names. 

Still, though so many of our favourites were raised 
the other side of the Channel, England is the true home 
of the Hybrid Perpetual Rose ; and that, not only 
because it is more cultivated here with the minute 
attention which is paid to a " florist's flower," but 
also because the English climate is better suited to 
its perfect development. 

Continuous sunshine is not the best weather for the 
blooming of H.P.s ; they like two or three hot days, 
and then a dull, dry, cooler one. Some will not open 
in rainy weather, others do not mind it ; but almost all 
this large class, so many of which were raised in sunny 
France, will display far more beautiful blooms on a dull 
and cooler day following after heat ; and it may be, I 
think, safely said that the finest H.P. Roses in the 
world are grown in England. 

The Rose is native to all countries in the world with 



chap, ii HISTORY AND CLASSIFICATION 



7 



the exception, perhaps, of Australia, a large portion of 
South America, and the actual tropics. 

It is very extensively cultivated in Persia and 
Bulgaria for the manufacture of attar or otto of Roses 
and Rose-water, which are distilled from the petals. 
In Persia a variety of the Musk Rose (Rosa moschata) 
is used for this purpose, but it has not the real odour 
of musk, which is said to be found only in Salet, a Per- 
petual Moss Rose. In Bulgaria, the country which is 
the largest producer of the otto, a variety of the 
Damask Rose (R. damascena) is used : and experts 
allege that the Damask and Provence (R. centifolia) 
Roses are the best representatives of the true inimit- 
able odour of Rose. The modes of distillation in these 
Eastern countries are very primitive and imperfect, 
and moreover in Bulgaria there has been considerable 
adulteration of the valuable otto with geraniol or oil 
of pelargonium. Much the best otto of Roses now 
in the market is manufactured by modern skilled 
appliances in Germany, near Leipzig, where the Bul- 
garian variety of Damask Rose is used, and in France, 
near Grasse, where a . strain of the Provence Rose is 
cultivated for the purpose. Rose-water and otto of 
Roses are also made in India, Turkey, and other 
places. 

Few readers of a Rose-book will care for much 
research into the history of the Rose. Mr. William 
Paul has with much care gone deeply into that subject 
in his large volume The Rose Garden, and I will only 
touch a few points, and refer inquirers on this subject 
to his fuller work. 

Homer's allusions to the Rose in the Iliad and the 
Odyssey are, I supj^ose, the earliest mentions we have. 
Every one will be aware of Bible references, though it 



8 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHA.F. 



should be mentioned that the Rose of Jericho is generally 
understood to be a cruciferous plant, and all seem agreed 
that whatever the Rose of Sharon was it was certainly 
not a Rose ; nevertheless Dr. Hooker enumerates seven 
species of Roses which he observed in Syria. A passage 
in the Apocrypha (Wisdom II., 8) is interesting as 
mentioning the custom of crowning with Rosebuds at 
feasts and banquets, which we know to have prevailed 
in classic times. 

By far the most important ancient quotation is from 
Sappho the Greek poetess, who was born about 600 B.C. 
A translation of a fragment of one of her poems is given 
in Mr. William Paul's book :— 

" Would Jove appoint some flower to reign 
In matchless beauty on the plain, 
The Rose (mankind will all agree), 
The Rose the Queen of Flowers should be." 

That the title of " The Queen of Flowers " is no 
modern assumption for the Rose, but has hardly been 
seriously questioned for nearly twenty-five centuries, is 
a little item of knowledge which every Rosarian should 
store by him as a weapon defence in time of need. 

The immense sums spent by Cleopatra, Nero, and 
other luxurious persons in the time of the Romans, not 
only on Roses but on " Rose leaves " (petals) for strewing 
on the floor and the seats, is well known. And there 
are actually some points of culture that we may learn 
from the Romans. Horace speaks of growing Roses in 
beds, and Pliny of digging deeply for their cultivation, 
both of which items — growing them by themselves 
apart from other plants, and moving the soil to the 
depth of two feet — have still to be insisted on in this 
year of grace 1894. 

During the long strange sleep of civilisation which 



II 



HISTORY AND CLASSIFICATION 



9 



in the Middle Ages followed the Fall of Rome, the 
culture of the Rose was probably somewhat neglected ; 
but gradually, no doubt, as the pursuits of peace began 
to prevail, gardening, and with it the love of the queen 
of flowers, revived. 

The National Rose Society gives 1596 as the date 
at which it is known that the Centifolia (Provence or 
Cabbage) Rose, the common Moss, and the Austrian 
Yellow and Austrian Copper were grown. But Rose 
progress was very slow till about 1815, when in spite 
of the troublous times, Mons. Vibert, the earliest of 
the great French raisers, founded his nursery. The 
way had been prepared for him by the patronage of 
the Empress Josephine, who made Roses fashionable, 
and caused search to be made for all existing varieties 
for her garden at Malmaison. Mons. Laffay soon 
followed Mons. Vibert, and after them we have a grand 
array of famous French Rosarians, Jacques, Hardy, the 
Guillots, Lacharme, Gonod, Pernet, Ducher, Margottin, 
the Verdiers, Levet, Liabaud, Nabonnand and others, 
to whom we are still indebted for the majority of our 
best Roses. 

Mons. Desportes in 1829 issued a catalogue con- 
taining the names of 2000 varieties, but the majority 
of these were no doubt worthless or not distinct, and 
by 1860 there were still but few Roses which we should 
now consider good, though we had General Jacqueminot 
and Senateur Vaisse among H.P.s, and among Teas, 
Devoniensis, Madame Bravy, Rubens, and Souvenir 
d'Elise, the last still unequalled as the finest of all show 
Roses. 

But taste, experience, and discrimination on the one 
hand, and demand on the other, were now beginning to 
tell, and in the next five years (1860-65) the following 



10 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



wonderful additions from France were made of Roses 
which are still indispensable : — Alfred Colomb, Camille 
Bernardin, Charles Lefebvre, Dr. Andry, Duchesse de 
Morny, Duke of Wellington, Fisher Holmes, Marguerite 
de St. Amand, Marie Baumann, Marie Rady, Maurice 
Bernardin, Pierre Notting, Prince Camille de Rohan, 
and Xavier Olibo ; and in Teas, La Boule d'Or and that 
wonder among roses Marechal Niel. 

About this time English raisers first began to come 
to the front with Roses still recognised as good, and 
Mr. W. Paul's Beauty of Waltham may be considered 
as one of the first of these, the origin of Devoniensis 
being a little doubtful. Messrs. Paul and Son of Ches- 
hunt, with Mr. Rivers of Sawbridgeworth, Mr. Cranston 
of Hereford, Mr. Turner of Slough, and Messrs. 
Keynes, Williams and Co. of Salisbury followed, till 
Mr. Bennett of Shepperton commenced by hybridising 
to raise what he called " pedigree Roses," and delighted 
the Rose world with Her Majesty and Mrs. John Laing. 

Messrs. A. Dickson and Son of Newtownards, Ireland, 
also took to hybridising with great and marked success, 
and this mode of obtaining new varieties from seed, by 
careful interchange of pollen, instead of trusting to 
chance cross-fertilisation, as had hitherto been done, is 
now probably being pursued by several raisers in the 
British Isles. More new varieties from our own country, 
and less from France, now pass their examinations and 
enter the ranks every year, but a very large proportion 
of our best Roses still bear, and will for many years, their 
French names. 

The worst of it is that some of these names must be 
said in full if there is to be no confusion. For instance, 
there are two Madame Eugene Verdiers, H.P. and Tea, 
as well as Mademoiselle Eugenie Verdier; H.P., besides 



II 



HISTORY AND CLASSIFICATION 



11 



Madame Victor Verdier and Victor Verdier. H.P.s. 
There are also two Madame Hippolyte Jamains. H.P. 
and Tea., besides Hippolyte Jamain, H.P. In addition 
to the well-known La France, there is also a Rose called 
La France de '89. a name which really shows some 
poverty of invention on the part of the raiser. 

A remonstrance might not be well received : for the 
Rev. H. H. D'Ombrain. Hon. Sec. of the National Rose 
Society, tells an amusing story of the French raiser of 
Duke of Wellington H.P. complaining that English 
growers would not call his Rose aright, for it should 
be Due de "Wellington. This seems to me really 
comic, if meant seriously. 

Still, as I have said, though so many of our best Roses 
owe their parentage to France, they are nowhere better 
cultivated than in the British Isles, there being a con- 
siderable export trade to America, the Colonies. Spain, 
and elsewhere : and nowhere are there such famous 
growers, both professional and amateur, who have made 
the Rose their special, and in some cases their sole, 
study. In mentioning the names of famous British 
growers, it is interesting to compare the list, given by 
Dean Hole in his charming book, of winners at the first 
National Rose Show in 1858 with those who are well 
known now in 1894. Of nurserymen. Messrs Paul of 
Cheshunt. Cranston of Hereford. Cant of Colchester, and 
Turner of Slough are still well-known names : but in 
the dozen or so of amateurs mentioned. "" Fellowes "' 
is the only name with which I am familiar as still 
growing and exhibiting well. Norfolk has not Avanted 
a good florist or two of the name of Fellowes for many 
yeans. 

In the very first rank at the present day among 
professional exhibitors are : — at Colchester the separate 



12 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



.establishments of Messrs. B. R. Cant and Frank Cant> 
who devote themselves solely to Roses ; in Hertfordshire, 
Messrs. Paul and Son of Cheshunt (Messrs. Wm. Paul 
and Son of Waltham not now exhibiting cut blooms 
in competition); and in Yorkshire, Messrs. Harkness 
and Sons of Bedale. No other nurserymen in the last 
'twelve years have won either of the N.R.S. champion 
trophies, but a foremost place must be admitted to Mr. 
Prince in Oxfordshire, whose specialty of Teas on the 
seedling briar has often won him the premier prize in 
that section, and to Messrs. A. Dickson and Son of 
Newtownards in Ireland, who show very strongly con- 
sidering their distance and the difficulty of transit, 
and who have won the gold medal for new Roses 
of their own raising much oftener than any other 
British firm. 

There are many others of high standing, a large 
proportion of whom probably sell as good plants as 
those I have mentioned. And if they have not come 
to the actual front yet as exhibitors, it may be that 
distance or climate, or a disinclination to incur the 
whole expense and trouble of competing in the first 
rank, have prevented their names being chronicled 
hitherto as the winners of the premier prizes. 

Among amateurs, notable exhibitors have dropped 
out of the ranks in the last decade in Messrs. W. J. 
Grant, T. B. Hall, and E. R. Whitwell, while the senior 
knight of all, Mr. R. N. G. Baker, only exhibits occasion- 
ally ; but we have still a large and increasing army of 
Rose-lovers, who like to tilt in honour of the queen at 
the Rose tournaments, and of these the best known are 
Mr. E. B. Lindsell of Hitchin, and Rev. J. H. Pember- 
ton of Essex, for H.P.s, and Mr. A. H. Gray of Bath, 
and Rev. F. R. Burnside of Herefordshire, for Teas, 



HISTORY AND CLASSIFICATION 13 



though in each division there are others treading 
closely on their heels, and occasionally victorious. 

Classification. — In botany, the number of actual 
species of Roses is very great, even the wild Dog-Rose 
of our hedges being divided into many sub-species, as 
may be seen from the great variety in foliage and habit 
in the early growths of briar stocks in nurserymen's 
quarters. Of the cultivated classes, probably nine out 
of ten Rose-lovers will only care to know about the two 
great divisions as they are commonly understood : viz. 
Hybrid Perpetuals, including Hybrid Teas and Per- 
petual Bourbons, and Teas and Noisettes, with perhaps 
a few climbers. Comparatively few will be interested in 
the Austrian, Bourbon, Polyantha, Moss, and Provence 
races ; and a still smaller number will care to investigate 
thoroughly the forty-one groups carefully enumerated 
by Mr. W. Paul in his systematic work. 

Now that hybridising and crossing of groups is so 
largely undertaken, it seems plain that many new 
divisions and classes are likely to arise, and old lines 
of demarcation to be lost. Apart from the true 
climbers, and all summer or botanical varieties, Roses 
to the novice or spectator at Rose shows are generally 
divided into H.P.s and Teas, and the more these two 
great divisions are consolidated and made inclusive 
instead of being subdivided, the less confusion, to my 
mind, is likely to arise from crossing and hybridising. 

Cultivated Roses are naturally divided into two 
divisions at the outset : Summer (i.e., those which only 
bloom once in the year), and Perpetual (i.e., those which 
have at least something of a second crop). It is obvious 
that the latter is the more valuable ; the H.P.s if taken 
to include the Hybrid Teas and all Bourbons which are 
perpetual, and the Teas, with the Noisettes which are 



14 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



mostly crossed with them, form the bulk of the per- 
petual Roses, and have therefore increased immensely 
in culture, popularity and number of varieties, while 
the sorts which bloom only in the summer have 
naturally been neglected, though perpetual forms have 
now been raised among the Ayrshire, Polyantha, 
Scotch, and Moss classes. The H.P.s and Teas, using 
the terms in their widest and most inclusive sense, 
would thus embrace all the best Roses, that is, those 
which give the finest and most perfect blooms ; and 
a large number of Rose-growers will be content with 
them. 

The live-stock-keeper's adage, that it costs no more 
to keep a good animal than a bad one, may, with some 
reservations, be applied to Roses ; and the H.P.s and 
Teas, in the wide sense that I have mentioned, certainly 
furnish the finest flowers. Still, for old associations 
some may cultivate the Provence (Cabbage) or York 
and Lancaster ; for beauty of yellow and copper shades, 
the Austrian ; for exhibition of a pot Rose in a mass 
of bloom, the Hybrid Bourbon or Hybrid China; for 
fancy in the bud stage only, the Moss ; for beauty of 
foliage and fruit, the Rugosa ; for toys, the Pompons 
or Fairies ; for certain forms of bouquet decoration, 
the Polyanthas ; for sweet foliage, the Sweet-briars ; 
and for rapid climbing, the Boursault, Evergreen, 
Ayrshire, or Banksians. 



Summer Roses 

The Provence Rose (Rosa centifolia). — The type here 
is the old " Cabbage " Rose, so called merely because 
it is full, with its petals folded like a cabbage. It is 



HISTORY AND CLASSIFICATION 15 



best grown as a bush, and requires close pruning. The 
original is pink, but there are other varieties of this 
class, white and striped. 

A sub-variety of the Provence is the Pompon Rose. 
These are simply Roses in miniature, which should not 
be confounded with the Polyanthas, many of which 
are quite as small, or with the Lawrencianse or Fairy 
Roses, which being Chinas are perpetual. 

The Moss Rose is a more important sub-variety of the 
Provence, the Crested Rose forming a sort of link 
between them. This group, so well known for the 
moss-like covering of the calyx, has been so popular 
that great efforts have been made to increase the 
number of varieties and improve the quality of the 
flowers. Mr. Cranston, writing in 1855, says that even 
then several hundred varieties of the Moss Rose had 
been raised, but though different colours, from white to 
crimson, have been gained, and one or two perpetual sorts 
have been issued, very little success in the way of actual 
improvement has been achieved, the common or old 
Moss Rose, to which the N.R.S. catalogue gives the 
date of 1596, being still the best in the popular bud state. 
There are now so many beautiful buttonhole Teas 
very much superior in beauty of colour, that it seems 
likely that Moss Roses, which are only valuable in the 
bud, not of long and pointed form, and apparently 
incapable of improvement, will suffer somewhat from 
their rivalry ; but many, no doubt, will still be found to 
cherish them from sentiment or old associations. 

The Moss Roses do not do well as standards, and 
some of them are not very strong growers. They will 
grow on manetti, but are generally considered to do 
best on their own roots, and should be pruned hard, 
and highly cultivated. Some miniature Moss Roses 



10 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



have been issued, with prettily shaped rosette-like 
flowers, one of the best of which is Little Gem (W. Paul 
and Son, 1880). 

The Double Yellow Rose (R. sulphurea) is considered 
by some to be a form of the Provence. Fifty or sixty 
years ago, this was the best yellow Rose, if it could 
be got to bloom ; but its " manners and customs " were 
so very bad, and the blooms so generally malformed 
or refusing to open at all, that it was pretty nearly 
given up as hopeless, even before Cloth of Gold appeared 
on the scene. 

The Damask Rose (R. damascena) and The French 
Rose (R. gallica) are placed under one heading in 
the N.R.S. Catalogue, and indeed it seems rather 
doubtful to which of these two sections some of the old 
Roses belonged. These are the old pink, red, and 
striped Roses of our gardens, both groups having been 
introduced into this country at least three hundred 
years. The three old-fashioned striped Roses, each of 
which has been called York and Lancaster, are Rosa 
Mundi (French), which is red striped with white, and 
occasionally self red ; Village Maid (French), which is 
white striped with red ; and the true York and Lan- 
caster, which is either (sometimes all on one bush) 
red, white, red striped with white, or white striped 
with red, a truly handy bush for a Vicar of Bray in the 
Wars of the Roses. 

The Damask and French Roses are not very strong 
growers, producing short-jointed wood and large, showy, 
open flowers. They succeed as standards, but were 
generally grown in the bush form. Fairly close 
pruning is required, with care as to the shape, that 
the blooms be regularly placed upon the plant. 

The flowers of the French Rose are but slightly 



II 



HISTORY AND CLASSIFICATION 



17 



scented when freshly gathered, but the perfume 
develops in the dried petals. The reverse is the ease 
with the Damask Rose, which is principally used in 
the manufacture of the otto, for the scent in this case 
is nearly destroyed by drying 

The White Rose (R. alba). — An old-fashioned class 
of Roses, generally grown as bushes, and still to be 
found by side-walks and in corners in old gardens. 
The majority of them are not pure white, but have a 
pale pink flush, very pretty in the bud, and open 
flat. They will grow as standards, and require rather 
close pruning. Felicite Parmentier (1828) and Maiden's 
Blush (1797) are the best known varieties. 

The Hybrid China Roses are hybrids between the 
French or Provence, crossed slightly with the China 
race, and showing very little of the cross ; as the 
Chinese are true perpetuals, and these remain as sum- 
mer Roses. They are very strong growers, almost all 
being vigorous enough for pillars or climbing, and 
some sufficiently pendulous to form tall half-weeping 
standards. The vigorous growers should not be too 
closely pruned. Blairii No. 2 a fine climber, Chenedole 
and Fulgens of brilliant colour, and Miss Ingram a 
well-shaped old Rose of more moderate growth, are now 
the best known. Madame Plantier, a very profuse 
bloomer, often placed in this group, seems to have in 
it some cross of the Noisette race. 

The Hybrid Bourbons, j3laced under the same heading 
in the N.R.S. Catalogue, form a somewhat similar 
group, being hybrids from the French or Provence 
with the Bourbon race, but not having the autumnal 
qualities of the Bourbons. Most of them are strong 
enough in growth for climbing purposes, and should 
not be pruned too closely when thus used. But in no 

c 



18 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



case is the whole art of pruning more called for than 
in fine old standards or pot Koses of this group, where 
the production of a well-shaped head, thickly and 
regularly covered with large blooms all out at once, 
is sometimes a triumph of skill and training. Charles 
Lawson is especially noticeable for its capabilities in 
this way, when carefully trained as a pot Eose. 

Coupe d'Hebe, of a fresh pink with a cup]3ed shape, 
is a name I can never forget, as it was the first rose — a 
standard — I ever had of my own, about forty years ago. 
Paul Ricaut is the best known crimson in this class. 

The Austrian Briar (R. lutea). — These are simply 
wild Roses native in some parts of Europe, nearly 
single, and lovely in colour. The Copper, as it is called, 
is the form best known; it is quite single, the petals 
being a most beautiful shade of coppery red, with 
orange yellow inclined to buff on the under sides. 
The others, Single Yellow, Persian Yellow, and Harri- 
sonii are also noted for their colour, being hardly 
surpassed in this point by any known Roses. The two 
last named are double though by no means full, and 
Harrisonii is the best grower, with a somewhat pendu- 
lous habit. They like a dry soil, will not succeed in 
suburban or smoky atmosphere, and all do best on 
their own roots, the suckers being encouraged, and 
taken off when rooted if required to form fresh plants. 
It is best not to prune them at all, beyond cutting out 
dead wood ; the shoots might be thinned, but there is 
no advantage in this with single Roses, where quantity 
of bloom is the thing desired ; and they should not be 
shortened, as flower-bearing shoots often issue from the 
buds near the tips. 

The Scotch Rose (R. spinosissima). — The "very 
thorny" Rose is a briar native in the north of Great 



Ti HISTORY AND CLASSIFICATION 19 



Britain, which has become semi-double and has at- 
tained almost every shade from white to deep crimson 
by long cultivation and selection of the easily raised 
seedlings. The plant is unmistakable, for no other 
Rose is so thickly covered with small very sharp thorns. 
They are not strong in growth, and are best on 
their own roots, propagated by suckers, like the 
Austrians. Scotch Roses are generally used to form a 
dwarf hedge, which has a pretty effect when the little 
round fragrant flowers are out, but these are very soon 
over. One perpetual form, however, has been raised — 
the Stairwell, a fair grower, very sweet, flowering freely 
from May to November. These Roses, as becomes 
natives of North Britain, are thoroughly hardy, and 
will flourish in the poorest soil where no other Rose will 
grow. No pruning, beyond cutting out dead wood, is 
required. 

The Sweet Briar (R. rubiginosa). — This is a native 
briar, growing freely wild in some parts of England, 
and generally where the soil is light and rather poor. 
The Eglantine, as it is otherwise called, is noted for the 
sweet scent of the foliage, which pervades the air for a 
considerable distance after a shower, in spring or early 
summer. There have been some cultivated varieties 
more or less double and deeper or paler in colour than 
the type, and Lord Penzance has been hybridising 
them with the laudable view of raising a group of good 
Roses with sweet foliage ; but though he has been 
most successful in colour improvement, I believe that 
nothing more than semi-double varieties have yet 
been attained. 

The Ayrshire Rose (R. arvensis). This too, as its 
name implies, is a native species, found also throughout 
Europe. They have been well called running Roses, for 

c 2 



-0 



THE BOOK UF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



the growth is extremely long, rapid, and slender. 
Being very hardy and ready to grow anywhere, they 
are better adaj)ted for trailing over unsightly places 
and ugly fences than for actual walls, which are best 
reserved for more valuable and tender sorts. This and 
the next group also form the best weeping Roses, bud- 
ded on a tall standard, as the shoots are very pliable, 
and trail gracefully downwards in a natural manner. 

Several of the Ayrshires have probably been slightly 
hybridised, a mark of the true sorts being that the 
flowers are not borne in clusters. Dundee Rambler. 
Ruga, and Sj)lendens or Myrrh-scented are among the 
best known. The flowers are small, semi-double, and 
mostly white or pink. The plants are quite hardy, very 
ranrpant in growth, and most effective when allowed 
to ramble at will, unpruned and untrained. Madame 
Yiviand Morel is a perpetual form. 

Tlic Evergreen Jtose (R. sempeiwirens ). — This group 
is very much like the last, but is not a native of Great 
Britain; nor is it, strictly speaking, evergreen, but 
some foliage is generally retained through most of the 
winter. The flowers are produced in very large clusters, 
mostly of white or light-pink colours. The plants are 
thoroughly hardy, as strong in growth as the Ayrshire, 
and useful for pillars, arches, weejDing Roses, or cover- 
ing waste places, the long shoots being left unpruned. 
Banksiseflora, Felicite Perpetue, and Rampant are 
perhaps the best known among them. 

The Boursautt Base (R. alpina). — This is another 
group of strong-climbing summer Roses, with very 
characteristic smooth wood, not quite so pendulous in 
habit as the two last named. This species is a native 
of the Alps, thoroughly hardy, growing and blooming 
anywhere in large clusters of reddish flowers. The 



i 



II 



HISTORY AND CLASSIFICATION 



21 



best-known varieties are Amaclis or Crimson, and 
Gracilis. 

The Banhsian Rose (R. Banksiae). — This is a very 
distinct species, said to have been introduced from 
China early in the century, and named after Lady 
Banks. The plants grow very strongly, but are not 
hardy, and are liable to be killed outright in severe 
frost, even on a south wall. There are only two 
varieties worth growing — the Yellow, with very small, 
but full, scentless flowers, produced in great abundance 
in clusters, and the White, with rather larger flowers, 
most deliciously and characteristically scented, the 
odour being compared to that of violets, but fewer of 
them. The plants, which are nearly evergreen in mild 
winters, should be very little pruned (see page 88) ; 
perhaps the best way is to shorten a little in the 
summer those shoots that have bloomed, cutting out 
all gross and sappy wood that is not wanted. 

The Polyantha Rose (R. multiflora). — The varieties 
of this class, which bloom only once, are single. These 
are — Polyantha simplex, a great grower, now being 
tested as a stock for Tea Roses, and apparently with 
good result both as a seedling and a cutting; and 
P. grandiflora, similar but with much larger single 
flowers. To the multiflora class belongs also another 
Rose used as a stock for strong-growing Teas, De la 
Grifferaie, only noted for its growth and consequent 
root-power. 

There are several other species of Roses which bloom 
only once, a list of the most interesting being given in 
the N.R.S. Catalogue. They are single in flower, and 
really only of value to the botanist or collector. 



22 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



Autumnal Flowering or Perpetual Roses. 

The Hybrid Perpetual Rose. — This wonderful group 
seems to have originated from several sources ; indeed, 
it may no doubt be said with Truth that certain strains 
of almost all other cultivated Roses have now been 
incorporated, by accident or design, into some of the 
members of this wide and varied class. It seems to 
me vain to try and trace the parentage of the most 
celebrated varieties. The pedigrees of most of them 
were absolutely unknown even to the raisers, since 
systematic hybridising and careful choice of seed- 
parents was not practised by the French Rosarians 
who issued our most noted sorts. Seeds were sown 
in immense quantities, and the cross fertilisation 
effected by insects or other agencies was relied on to 
produce the variations which ensued. 

As always happens, however, according to the doctrine 
of evolutionists, certain marked types resulted which 
were not only distinct, but had also the power of im- 
pressing their characteristics upon then descendants, 
forming thus new groups. Victor Verdier, La France, 
and Baroness Rothschild are instances of these 
new departures, accounts of which may be found in 
Chapter XII. 

Hybrid Teas are at present an unsatisfactory class. 
It is very difficult even now to draw a decided line 
as to where there is sufficient strain from the Tea- to 
warrant the division ; and it seems more than probable 
that the task will become almost impossible when 
the Hybrid Teas are crossed back again into the 
H.P.s or Teas, as they have been already in two or 
three instances, For this reason I have throughout 



II 



HISTORY AND CLASSIFICATION 



23 



included the so-called H.T.s among the large group of 
Hybrid Perpetuals. for they are both Perpetual and 
Hybrid. 

The Bourbon Rose was introduced from the Isle of 
Bourbon about the year 1825. This group is noted for 
its sweet scent, and also for its very good autumnal 
qualities, the true Bourbons generally giving better 
blooms in the second crop. It has been quite a large 
class. Mr. William Paul enumerates forty— ix varieties 
in The Rose Garden, bur none of them is likely to 
remain or be much cultivated now, except the one 
celebrated sort Souvenir de la Malmaison. It seems 
to me highly probably that a much larger proportion 
of our H.P.s have some of the influence of this grand 
autumnal strain in their constitutions than is generally 
imagined : and as the two modern Bourbons, Madame 
Isaac Pereire and Mrs. Paul, are evidently hybrids, it 
appears advisable that all perpetual forms of this group 
also should be merged in the large class of H.P.s. 

The China Rose (R. indica). — This group, truest of 
Perpetuals.. was introduced into this country from China 
about the year 1789. The Common Pink otherwise 
known as the Monthly Rose, always in flower, and the 
Crimson were imported separately about the same 
time ; and all other varieties have resulted from these 
types. They are not very strong growers, do best 
on their own roots in a warm soil, and the flowers, weals 
and feeble with little or no scent, have little to recom- 
mend them beyond the one good quality in which they 
are unsurpassed — constant freedom of bloom, earliest, 
latest, and throughout the season. 

Many varieties were issued in past years, but, besides 
the two types. Mrs. Bosanquet. of a waxy ivory tint- 
was generally considered the only one worth growing 



24 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



Laurette Messimy (Guillot, 1887), however, showed an 
improvement, a pretty buttonhole Rose, pink shaded 
with yellow, very free-blooming, but not a strong 
grower. 

The Lawrenccana, or Fairy Rose, also introduced from 
China about 1810, is simply a China Rose in miniature. 
These little toys are often sold in pots in the markets, 
and should not be confounded with the miniature 
pompons, which bloom only once ; for the Fairy Roses are 
true Chinas, and if kept in health are ever in bloom. 
They are best perhaps in pots, but are sometimes 
successfully grown in rich warm soils as edgings. 

The Tea Rose (R. indica odorata). — This most cele- 
brated group, the true aristocracy of the Rose world, 
was also introduced from China about the year 1810. 
The first one was pink, and in 1824 the Yellow Tea 
Rose was imported. 

There can be no doubt that both of these originated 
from the Chinese Rose, and for many years the group 
was known as the Tea Scented China. They are like 
the China group in habit, but differ from it in being 
tender to frost, and having the peculiar fragrance said 
to be like that of a newly opened tea-chest. It seems 
strange and suggestive that Roses with this scent should 
have originated in China, but scent experts deny that 
the odour of Tea is to be found in Tea Roses. The 
" manners and customs " of this lovely class will be 
found in Chap. XII. 

The Noisette Rose originated in America, and was 
named after Mons. P. Noisette, who brought it to 
France, from which it reached this country about 1820. 
It is supposed to have been an accidental cross between 
the Musk and the China groups : there is no doubt it 
had something in common with Tea Roses originally, 



Rose Spray, exhibited by Mrs. Orpex. To face p. 25. 



II 



HISTORY AND CLASSIFICATION 



25 



and the likeness was soon considerably increased by 
further hybridisation with the Tea Scented China. A 
few of our H.P.s also show a cross with this group, of 
which Boule de Neige is a good example. An account 
of the habits of this class also will be found in Chap. 
XII. 

The Mush Rose (R. moschata). — This species is said 
to have been introduced to this country something like 
300 years ago. It is a strong rambling grower, not 
hardy, with late-blooming clusters of single flowers, 
having a peculiar scent. It is a native of Persia and 
is said to be the sort from which the celebrated 
attar of Roses is manufactured in that country. The 
only varieties of this group which are at all well 
known are Madame d'Arblay and The Garland, strong 
climbers, which are supposed to be hybrids between the 
Musk Rose and some form of Rosa multiflora. 

The Polyantha Rose (R. multiflora). — The perpetual 
forms of this group are of recent introduction, so much 
so that the name is not even mentioned in the sixth 
edition of Mr. Cranston's excellent book, published in 
1877. The best are dwarf in growth, and the flowers 
are very small, quite tiny, but often exquisite in colour 
and shape, generally produced in clusters and masses, 
and invaluable for some of the modern forms of bouquets. 
Among the best known are Gloire des Polyantha, Anne 
Marie de Montravel, and Perle d'Or, the last named and 
one or two others having the true orange tint, only seen 
elsewhere in William Allen Richardson. The majority 
of the new varieties are no doubt hybrids with the 
H.P.s and perhaps some other classes. They are always 
in bloom, force well, and are sometimes used as edgings. 

A new departure has been made in this class by the 
issue of Turner's Crimson Rambler, which gained the 



20 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



gold medal in 1893. This is a very strong- climbing 
perpetual Polyantha from Japan, the flowers being pro- 
duced in great conical trusses in large abundance. It 
seems to be quite hardy, and promises to be a great 
acquisition, either for ordinary climbing purposes or for 
the pegging-down system of treatment. 

The Macartney Rose (R. bracteata). — This species 
was introduced from China in 1795 by Lord Macartney. 
It is of vigorous growth, with bright glazed foliage, not 
very hardy, and best on a warm wall. The original was 
single, but Marie Leonida is double, sweet-scented, and 
generally a mass of bloom through the season in a warm 
situation. 

R. lucida, R. microphylla, and R. berherifolia are all 
somewhat similar to the last-named group — not hardy, 
but with shining foliage, and practically evergreen 
where well protected. There are double and single 
forms. 

The Japanese Rose (R. rugosa). — These Roses are 
most distinct, the thickly spined wood and foliage being 
very fresh and pleasing, the single flowers large and fine, 
and the bright-red fruit handsome and striking. The 
two principal varieties are the red and the white, the 
latter, very pure in colour, being generally the favourite. 
They do well on their own roots in good soil, for clumps, 
or a small ornamental hedge. 

Other botanical varieties, all single, are R. macrantha 
a French Rose with long golden stamens ; R. pomi- 
fera, with apple-shaped fruit; R. rubrifolia, with red 
stems and foliage ; R. setigera, the Bramble -leaved 
Prairie Rose from the United States ; and R. gigantea, 
from India, with white flowers five inches across. There 
are many others, but they are only of botanical interest. 
The Green Rose is a curious monstrosity of the China 



IT 



HISTORY AND CLASSIFICATION 27 



race, the so-called petals having changed into leaves, 
and become indistinguishable from the rest of the 
plant. 

A sort of ill-defined division has lately arisen owing 
to some sorts being called " garden Roses." This term 
was originally applied, when H.P.s and Teas came into 
fashion, to the Damask, French, H.B., and H.C. Roses 
remaining in old-fashioned gardens. Later, it came to 
be used for all Roses which were not up to exhibition 
standard, and raisers of new varieties that were not up 
to the mark introduced them as " good garden Roses." 
The N.R.S. has now classes for the exhibition of garden 
Roses, and issues a definition of what may be shown 
under this head ; but for general use, without drawing 
any hard and fast line around them as a class, the name 
is useful as representing the hardy, strong-growing, free- 
flowering sorts, which do not require much care, but are 
defective as florists' flowers. 



r 



CHAPTER III 



SITUATION AND SOIL 

In the choice of a situation for the cultivation of roses 
we must seek for a spot — 

1, as little liable as may be to severe frosts ; and 

2, sheltered, if possible, from violent winds, but not 
too near large trees or hedges. 

1. It is pretty well known that most of the Tea Roses 
are tender, and likely to be injured or killed by severe 
frost. In the winter of 1890 the whole of my Marechal 
Niels were absolutely killed, though they were grown in 
a row close to the west side of a high paling, and were 
well and thickly covered with bracken, with moreover 
nearly a foot of snow over all. The Hybrid Perpetual 
Roses, especially if grown as dwarfs, will generally with- 
stand the effects of any winter ; but late frosts, in May 
or even earlier, will seriously affect their young shoots, 
in severe cases (as in 1891 and 1894) blackening and 
killing them, and still oftener injuring or destroying the 
as yet invisible bud. The worst of it is that it is 
difficult after such a visitation to estimate at first how 
much damage has been done. A fortnight of genial 
weather may sometimes be required before we can see 
whether the shoot is stopped (that is, made " blind " — 
come to an end without a bud), and even if the bud 



CHAP. Ill 



SITUATION AND SOIL 



29 



is still to be found apparently sound it has probably 
received some permanent injury or disfiguration that 
will render it valueless, but cannot be detected till it is 
too late. In such cases it will be advisable to remember 
that the injury is almost always worse than it appears to 
be at first, and that if the growth is not far advanced 
the sooner the damaged shoots are removed the better. 

Even the native briar standard stocks, just transplanted 
from the hedges, will sometimes suffer; and many 
thousands were thus destroyed in nursery grounds 
in the winter of 1890-91. In one year in the eighties 
many of my standard H.P.s were thus destroyed, and 
in almost every case the injury — the frost-bite — was not 
to the Rose, but to the stock, black dead places, looking 
like actual bites, appearing in the stems. This was an 
exceptional case, and it does seem odd, as we rarely see 
a wild briar injured by frost, that the same plant should 
be more tender when transferred to a garden ; but we 
must remember that standard stocks for budding have 
nearly all their fibrous roots cut off, and that they are 
generally taken from a sheltered place and planted right 
out in the open, much more exposed to evaporation, and 
are often perhaps allowed to become dry at the root in 
moving. It is plain, therefore, that, as frost is such an 
enemy to the Rose-grower, a situation should be sought 
where the least damage of this sort may be expected. 

Frost is seldom very severe in England at the sea-side, 
but the salt spray and violent winds would render such 
a place generally undesirable, though good Roses are 
grown in some seaside localities. The old-fashioned 
saying is that " frost falls." This is of course not true 
in itself, but it is true in effect. Heated air, being 
lighter, ascends ; colder air, being heavier, descends : and 
it is found that frost is always most severe and danger- 



30 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



ous in low-lying places and that a covering overhead is a 
better protection than one at the side, because evapora- 
tion upwards towards the sky produces cold. My 
neighbour, a quarter of a mile off on a little hill, has 
always from three to five degrees less of frost than I 
have ; and even if it were not so I believe that the same 
amount of frost would be more destructive to vegetation 
to me in a river valley than it would be to him on the 
upland. Valleys or low-lying ground, especially if near 
water, should therefore be avoided, and the uplands in 
all cases be preferred. 

Mere height above the sea level would not, in most 
cases, be a matter of much moment ; though on the one 
hand the top of a mountain would not of course be a 
desirable spot, and on the other a very flat plain with 
little height above the sea would probably be subject to 
severe frost : thus the flats of Cambridgeshire, which 
have such a slight fall to the sea, are well known as 
registering very low degrees of temperature. Rather 
high ground, not necessarily the top of a hill, with valleys 
in the neighbourhood for the cold air to fall to, would 
probably be a good situation as to comparative immunity 
from frost. 

In dealing with situation, I do not allude to different 
parts of England, though it is well known that Marechal 
Niel cannot be successfully grown out of doors in York- 
shire, while in some parts of Devonshire and Cornwall 
even sub-tropical plants will live through the winter. I 
am not supposing that the Rosarian can choose his 
county for Rose-growing : if he could, for combination of 
climate and soil Herefordshire would probably make a 
strong bid for the pride of place, at all events for H.P.s. 
Teas, which depend less upon actual fatness of earth 
and more upon dryness in atmosphere and soil, may 



HI 



SITUATION AND SOIL 



31 



probably in favoured situations be easier grown to their 
best in the Eastern Counties. If a man has only his 
own grounds wherein to choose a spot for his Roses, let 
the highest spot be chosen, if it be not the actual bare 
cone at the top of a hill. A little height will make 
more difference than one would suppose ; and if on a 
slope, let the Teas be planted at the top. 

2. Exposure to strong winds is very hurtful to Roses 
in the flowering season, and at such a time an exhibitor 
will be more distressed to be awoke at night by a gale 
of wind than by a storm of rain. Anything that rubs 
or chafes against a petal will injure and spoil it ; and to 
tie every bud up so that nothing can possibly touch it 
is, among a large number, almost an impossibility. But 
wind may, and often does, do much more harm than 
spoiling the blooms : the newly budded shoots of 
" maidens " are sure to be blown right out of the stocks 
as soon as they get strong and heavy, and the whole 
plants thus absolutely destroyed, unless they be care- 
fully and constantly tied up to stakes ; and moreover 
these ties must be looked to and renewed even quite up 
to the autumn, as a strong head is seldom safe from 
being blown out till it has been pruned in the following 
spring. 

Where there are many standards, every morning 
after a gale will probably show several of the supporting 
stakes snapped off close to the ground, and the Rose 
plant being injured at the root by swinging in 
the wind. Not only must a new stake be supplied, 
but the old stump must be extracted without disturb- 
ing the plant ; for old decaying wood has, especially in 
some soils, a tendency to promote the growth of a 
fungus which is injurious to the roots. The opera- 
tion, which looks hopeless, can generally be satisfactorily 



32 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE chap. 



performed with an old pair of garden shears, which will 
grip the top of the half-rotten stump, and then, by 
a downward pressure on the handles, lever it out like 
drawing a tooth. Again, although height is as a rule 
more important than shelter as a protection against 
frost, the drying power of the east wind in what 
is called a wind frost is hurtful, especially to newly 
planted Roses. It seems to dry the sap out of them, and 
if long continued may do a good deal of harm. 

As strong wind is so injurious, shelter should be 
sought for ; and that, not only on the north and east, 
but also on the south-west, from which the strongest 
winds generally come. Belts of close-growing trees or 
thick and high hedges will be the sort of shelter 
generally available, but it is most important that they 
be not close enough, either to shade the Roses, or for 
their roots to enter the beds. Buildings or walls are 
the best shelters, as the protection they give is real with 
some refracted warmth : they drop no seeds or leaves, 
and especially they have no robbing roots. 

A place which has plenty of walls, even if most of 
them be low ones, offers great advantages in situation 
for Rose-growing. All the Teas and Noisettes can 
be grown to greater perfection against a wall than they 
can in the open, with the two disadvantages that the 
blooms will be too early for exhibition, and that the 
autumn crop will probably not be so good. The 
higher walls will be useful for the Noisettes and 
climbing Teas, or even for the climbing H.P.s or 
Hybrid Chinas ; and the lower ones for the true Teas of 
more moderate growth, which in the Eastern or Home 
Counties will in ordinary seasons have first-class blooms 
by the first week in June. Many do not know what a 
beautiful Tea Rubens is, unless they have grown it on 



Ill 



SITUATION AND SOIL 



33 



a wall ; and some of the hot-season Teas, such as La 
Boule d'Or, Madame Margottin, or Madame Hippolyte 
Jamain, will often succeed on a wall, and even not be 
too early to show, in seasons when they fail in the 
open. 

No wall should be neglected. I have grown the best 
of Teas on the low wall surrounding a deeply gravelled 
stable yard, and have won a medal with Souvenir 
d'Elise from this hopeless-looking place I have in such 
cases planted the stock against the wall and budded it 
there, with no preparation of the soil. The stock rooted 
itself firmly and strongly, and when the Rose began to 
grow I found that a big basin or depression in the soil 
round the root and plentiful supplies of liquid manure 
were sufficient for the production of capital growth and 
splendid blooms. 

Apart from walls or buildings, the question of shelter 
is a difficult one ; for it must be carefully remembered 
that the neighbourhood of trees, shrubs, or hedges whose 
roots can reach the beds, and also all actual shade, 
should be sedulously avoided. And, again, the situation 
must be quite free and open, not close and stuffy ; and 
if no shelter whatever can be had, the finest Roses can 
still be grown, for the grounds of nurserymen, even 
those who are most successful at the shows, are absolutely 
open and exposed to the four winds of heaven. After 
all, then, it is better to be moderately high and exposed 
than to be too sheltered and too low, particularly if the 
shelter consist of growing trees or shrubs which stand 
too close. But, if thus unsheltered, extra and constant 
care must be given in the growing season to tying and 
supporting : the majority of the H.P.s should be grown 
<as dwarfs, and stout bamboo stakes should support the 
permanent standards. 



34 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



In many cases, however, the would-be grower of 
Roses has no choice of a situation, but has to make the 
best of the ground at his disposal ; and as I have to 
grow my own Roses in just such a situation as I have 
been describing as the worst of all — viz. at the bottom 
of a valley, near a river, hardly above the level of the 
water-meadows, only thirty feet above sea-level, and more- 
over surrounded by large trees — I can fully sympathise 
with any one in such a position. The disadvantages of 
low ground can only be surmounted by choosing the 
very highest you have — a little rise will tell — and by 
much care in protecting the Teas through the winter 
(see Chap. IV.). As for the big trees, if they must 
not be cut down, their shade and their robbing power 
must be utterly avoided, or success will be impossible. 
We may generally calculate that the roots will reach 
to a distance equal to the height of the tree, though 
some are worse robbers than others, and a specially 
wide berth should be given to Elms. As to the cutting 
through the tree-roots before they reach the beds, the 
labour will generally be found inadequate to the result 
a really deep trench, kept open, might answer in some 
cases, but in many it would be a serious nuisance. I 
have tried cutting the roots and putting tar and other 
things that I thought would stop them into the trench 
before filling it up, but without success. 

The general resort of the baffled Rosarian is to take in 
a piece from a neighbouring field, and this is no doubt 
the best course to pursue ; for, if the soil be good and 
the field an old pasture without any trees too near, it 
will be far better to do this at once, even at some extra 
cost, than to try to grow Roses to perfection in a garden 
without sufficient elbow-room from large trees and 
shrubs. 



Ill 



SITUATION AND SOIL 



35 



Pure air is essential, and good Roses cannot be grown 
within the smoke circle of a large town ; but on the 
border land, so to speak, of town and country, in those 
suburban gardens where clean or foul air may depend 
upon the direction of the wind, constant loving care 
may do a great deal to minimise the evil with a few 
plants. It should be remembered, in such cases, that 
the leaves are the lungs which are unable to respire 
when choked with grimy particles, and plenty of 
syringing, and even sponging of the leaves on the under 
as well as the upper surfaces, should be resorted to. 

Soil. 

The best soil for Roses is a strong rich deep tenacious 
loam, of a heavy greasy nature without being actual 
clay, and naturally well drained by resting, not less 
than two feet down, upon gravel or chalk or some other 
porous stratum. This will give a general description 
of what should be the ideal, but I do not suppose 
that any one can accurately appraise the value of a 
soil for Rose-growing by simple examination, and even 
chemical analysis is sometimes fallacious. The test of 
results is the best and most reliable, and the value of 
land for wheat or pasture (either of which is a good 
guide) is well understood by local men in any part of 
the country. One field will often differ very much in 
value from another that looks just the same ; but this 
is all well known, as to practical results, by the farmers 
and labourers on the spot, and much reliance should be 
placed upon their opinion, in conjunction with examina- 
tion of the soil, in test holes to the depth of two or three 
feet at least. The best wheat land, high-rented pasture, 

D 2 



36 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



a neighbourhood where the English oaks and elms 
grow large and the hedges are vigorous and strong,, with 
long clean healthy shoots — such signs as these will be 
better guides to the seeker for a Rose soil than geo- 
logical maps, which often give no indication as to the 
nature of the surface. 

The principal soils likely to be found are clay, loam, 
gravel, chalk, and sand. 

Clay. — The general idea is that clay land is most 
suitable for Roses ; but there is a very great difference 
in the fertility of clays, from the poor blue shale clay 
of the Weald of Sussex to the rich yellow unctuous 
butter that feeds fat the Roses of Colchester. In this 
matter there can be no better guide, as I have said, 
than the local knowledge which has been gained by 
generations of experience of results, and the obvious 
test of value is the rent or price demanded and paid. 

But clay land has very much deteriorated in value for 
agricultural purposes of late years, more than any other, 
and it is not now considered, as it used to be, the best 
of all soils for Rose-growing ; and it must be remembered 
that even the best of it is very difficult and troublesome 
to work: it cannot be meddled with at all in wet 
weather, and unless the surface is dry harm may be 
done by even treading on it. Planting in such a case 
is a serious trouble to the conscientious Rosarian, who is 
told to apply the most powdery soil to the roots of his 
Roses and to see that it all settles evenly and closely 
between the layers of fibres, if he has nothing at hand 
but huge sticky unbreakable clods. The precious cul- 
tivation of the hoe, keeping the surface powdery and 
preventing evaporation by cracks in dry weather, is a 
serious and difficult task. Even if the land is well 
drained to start with, which is absolutely necessary, the 



Ill 



SITUATION AND SOIL 



37 



lower drainage of the pipes may become choked by age 
or neglect of attendance to the outfalls, &c., and the 
upper drainage of the cultivated soil is sure to be in- 
jured if the ground be trampled on or meddled with in 
a thaw or at any time when the soil is wet. 

If such land should be the portion of the Rosarian, 
every effort should be made to lighten it, and to keep 
its particles as separate as possible, and prevent their 
being squeezed together in a puddle of putty. The 
agriculturist seeks the aid of frost for the disintegration 
of clay : if the soil be thrown up roughly and as much 
as possible exposed to the air, it will be found on the 
first dry time after a thaw in fair planting condition, 
but even then it should be trodden as little as possible. 
Anything that will mechanically keep the particles 
apart is good for digging into actual clay : long strawy 
manure, leaf-mould, road-scrapings, grit, light sandy or 
gravelly soil, or even coal ashes will all help ; but the 
best of all is the burnt clay itself, mixed well into the 
land. 

The clay should be burnt as follows. A large col- 
lection should be made of all manner of vegetable refuse, 
weeds, and rubbish that will not easily burn, sticks and 
wood both green and dry, but nothing except just the 
kindling that will burn too quickly, Rose prunings and 
hedge clippings, rotten wood and old stumps, &c. Two 
or three large old roots that will smoulder a long time 
may be placed in the middle, and the heap arranged 
of such a mixture of fairly inflammable and damper 
materials that the fire will neither go out nor break into 
fierce flame. In and upon and around this heap, when 
well on fire, should be placed the clay in quantity pro- 
portionate to the amount of fire. Constant watching 
will be necessary to add fresh clay when it is needed and 



38 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



to prevent the fire going out or breaking through too 
fiercely anywhere, the object being to char the clay 
black and not to burn it red. I recommend, as the best 
instruction possible for this as for all mechanical opera- 
tions, seeing it once done by an old and experienced hand. 
The clay burnt red as a brick will be useful as a disinte- 
grator at all events ; but the black charred clay will also 
have a considerable manurial value, and it is generally 
agreed that there is nothing like it for improving at the 
same time the consistence and fertility of real solid 
clay. 

Roses in a clay soil make long strong roots, but not 
many of them. It will be advisable therefore in such 
places to put in plants from a lighter soil, whether Roses 
or stocks, which would have a larger number of roots of 
a more fibrous nature though not so large ; and it 
would be very desirable to have a little lighter soil — 
leaf mould or the top soil of an old garden — to put in 
immediate contact with the roots. Still, if the clay 
land be really good and well drained, it will often repay 
all labour spent on it, especially in a hot and early 
summer; for the Dog-Rose does like heavy soil, and with 
a well-cultivated surface above to prevent cracking on 
the one hand or too great consolidation on the other, 
and with plenty of moisture in the cool tenacious though 
well-drained substance below, most of the H.P. roses 
may be expected to come to full perfection on this 
stock. 

Loam. — If there was a choice, I should select rather 
the best loam with a tendency to clay, what a farmer 
would call " strong " land. There is very great dif- 
ference in the value and fertility of what in auc- 
tioneer's phrase would be "good mixed soil"; and I 
can only repeat that the best guide on this matter is 



Ill 



SITUATION AND SOIL 



39 



local knowledge and the rent that has been paid in past 
years. The soil ought to be equally good for quite two 
feet in depth, with effective natural or artificial drainage 
as a sine qua -non. By natural drainage I mean a sub- 
soil of gravel, stones, sand, or chalk ; and for artificial, 
nothing less than actual pipes should be used, laid by 
a competent man, with a fair fall, and outfalls not 
neglected, but watched, cleared, and properly attended 
to. In the best loam the best Roses of all sorts may 
and should be grown: 

Gravel. — Soil known as gravelly is often too quickly 
condemned. It is considered healthy to live on, agree- 
able to work, and useful for many things, but too hot, 
poor, and dry for the cultivation of the best Roses ; still, 
as I have had to grow most of my own in such a medium, 
condemned after careful examination by one of the best 
judges as hopeless, I can aver that there is no reason to 
despair of a gravel soil. 

There will be some soil at least, light, dry, and 
powdery perhaps, but fairly fertile, on the top above the 
gravel, and this, probably the full depth of the spade 
in the garden but not so deep in the field, should 
be taken out and laid on one side. Though not 
the soil the Rose delights in, it is excellent for root 
formation, for the striking of cuttings, for placing 
next to the roots of roses, and for mixing with heavy 
loam or clay in the making up of the beds. 

The actual gravel must then be taken clean away to 
the depth of two feet at least from the surface (some 
enthusiasts say three feet, but I do not think it necessary 
or even desirable), and sufficient good strong loam or 
actual clay procured to take its place. This is expensive, 
but is absolutely necessary for the growth of good 
H.P.s, and will last a long time. The greater part of 



40 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



this heavy loam should be placed at the bottom where 
the gravel was, but a little of the light soil may be mixed 
with it and a little of the fresh stuff added to the upper 1 
portion. How to do this will be further described in 
the next chapter; but it is important to notice that 
when the beds are thus made up of good Rose material 
in what is naturally a gravel soil, the advantage is 
gained of having such perfect natural drainage at the 
sides as well as at the bottoms of the beds as could not 
well be attained in what is by nature a good Rose soil. 

Furthermore, Tea Roses may be grown to perfection 
on gravel soil. A large quantity of good manure should 
in this case take the place of the gravel at the bottom, 
to which a little of the heavy loam may be added, 
though I do not believe it to be necessary. For Teas 
there is no occasion to be afraid of the multitude of 
small stones which are natural to a gravel soil ; for I 
believe Mr. George Paul was right when he stated in the 
Rosarians Year Booh that " Tea Roses like grit." The 
bloom of Madame Cusin which gained the medal at the 
Crystal Palace in 1893 as the best Tea exhibited by an 
amateur, and was characterised by the Secretary of the 
National Rose Society as " certainly never equalled in 
any exhibition on this side of the Channel," was grown 
by me in what is practically an old gravel pit where 
stones have been raised for the high road. The pit was 
refilled with the siftings and levelled, and in this soil, 
unaltered save by cultivation and manure, the above- 
mentioned and other good Tea Roses have been grown. 

Chalk. — This is as hopeless as anything to grow Roses 
in, and on the upper chalk of down lands where it is 
close to the surface, and good loam probably far distant 
it would hardly be worth while to attempt it. But in 
a great deal of the chalk formation of geologists it lies 



Ill 



SITUATION AND SOIL 



41 



at a considerable though varying depth, and the soil 
above it, of a sufficient thickness for all Rose purposes, 
may be gravel, sand, clay, or loam. In many of these 
places the chalk itself is of a clayey nature, and is then 
called marl, the fertilising value of which is dependent 
upon the proportion of clay. Poor dwellings and sheds 
in Suffolk used to be made of what is called "clay 
lump." This was marl, mixed with reeds or straw, 
well watered, and trodden by a wretched horse till it 
was thoroughly compacted, and then formed into very 
large bricks and left to dry but not burnt. When an 
old building was pulled down the " clay lumps " were 
considered excellent, if broken very small, for mixing 
with light land, and I have no doubt they were. They 
were thoroughly dry, and one of the great difficulties 
of mixing clay with other soil is overcome if it can be 
got so dry that it can be beaten into powder. Marl, as 
a mixture of clay and lime, was a good deal carted on 
to the light lands for agricultural purposes in times 
gone by, as the many old marl-pits in Suffolk testify. 

Some very fertile soils may be found on the lower 
chalk or marl formation, particularly on the edge of the 
greensand. Hitchin would be a case in point, where 
Mr. E. B. Lindsell has for some years grown the best 
amateur H.P.s, and where Messrs. Harkness and Sons 
have also begun to endeavour, if possible, to better 
even their Yorkshire fame. 

Sand. — This may be considered in itself to be the 
worst soil of all, but where it occurs in the greensand 
from sandy rocks, strong loam is probably to be had 
within carting distance, and almost all the really sandy 
part being taken right away to the depth of two feet, 
good Teas at least might probably be grown in well- 
made beds in such a place. But in sands like that to 



42 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. Ill 



be found at the seaside, or as the " blowing " sands on 
the Norfolk and Suffolk border near Thetford, where 
thick belts of firs have to be planted to prevent one 
man's crop, and field too, being actually blown away to 
his neighbour, I fear the Rosarian must stifle his 
impulses, change his object of worship, and devote 
himself, according to the extent of his holding, to 
hyacinths or partridges. 



CHAPTER IV 



PLANTING : WITH LAYING OUT OF THE BEDS AND 
PROTECTION 

Situation and soil being settled, we have next to 
lay out and prepare the beds, to plant the Eoses, and 
to protect the delicate and tender kinds from being 
injured by frost. 

Let it be first understood that for proper cultivation 
the Rose must have a place to itself. Although I 
sympathise with that large number of cultivators who 
plant Roses in mixed borders among strong herbaceous 
plants and even shrubs, it must be said that it is next 
to impossible to bring the Rose to perfection in such 
surroundings. When wondering much at the number 
of extra tall standards to be seen in nurserymen's 
grounds, and as to who could be found to buy them, I 
have beeh told that there is a large demand for them 
in some gardens for certain situations, " where a tall 
standard Rose would just come in " — between two huge 
clumps of delphinium, perhaps, or " so that it would 
just show nicely from behind over that bushy shrub." 
It must be laid down that to make the queen of flowers 
take a back seat is an impracticable task ; she cannot 
stand it, but will inevitably pine away ; she tolerates 



IV 



PLANTING 



45 



through nearly the whole of the year, and they have 
such a multitude of other things to attend to that they 
cannot compete even with a single-handed man who 
gives all his time to his Roses. 

What, then, shall our Rosarium be like in pattern 
and shape and general effect ? Here I fear I shall prove 
too practical and utilitarian for the taste of many persons. 
Mr. William Paul in his large work gives several 
carefully drawn diagrams of geometrical arrangements 
and of noted Rose-gardens new and old, some of them 
laid out quite from the landscape gardener's point 
of view. And Dean Hole says : " There should be beds 
of Roses, banks of Roses, bowers of Roses, hedges of Roses, 
edgings of Roses, pillars of Roses, arches of Roses, fountains 
of Roses, baskets of Roses, vistas and alleys of the Rose." ' 
But though these things are good and desirable, they 
will probably be beyond the means of most of my 
readers as they certainly are beyond mine. Also it 
must be remembered that the Rose is not like a bedding 
plant which will keep up continual masses of colour 
throughout the summer, but that the flush of flowers 
is not for more than a month at most, after which many 
sorts, even of the Teas, will be off bloom for a while and 
the general effect will be spoiled. Further, that for per- 
fection of culture the best situation must be chosen, even 
in defiance of artistic surroundings. And lastly, I may 
say for myself that, given the most perfectly arranged 
Rosarium that ever was seen, I would leave it for 
a few plants in a bed in the kitchen garden with cab- 
bages on one side and onions on the other, if there 
alone could be found the perfect blooms. 

As to the shape of the beds, it seems evident that 
they should not be so wide as to necessitate treading 
upon the soil to reach and cut the blooms. This points 



46 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



to long and comparatively narrow beds, and when you 
have them there seems no escape from actual rows, 
following the shape of the beds, whether straight or 
curved. Anything else would waste the precious room, 
for if the whole bed be made of the best soil and fed 
and manured equally, the room that will hold another 
plant is precious. Straight rows may be condemned 
as formal, and so they are, but they are thoroughly 
practical and economical, and undoubtedly the best for 
an exhibitor, who wants to be able to go over all his 
plants easily and expeditiously. 

My own rose beds are simple parallelograms five- 
and-a-half feet wide, and such beds may be as long as 
you like. I may wish mine were longer than they are 
but not wider. Longitudinally they are separated by 
grass paths of the same width, and there should be cross 
paths here and there, but not too many. Grass paths 
are much superior to gravel in appearance and in cost 
of keeping in order ; and of course if the Rose beds are 
made out of a meadow or pasture, the grass is simply 
left. These paths should not be narrower than five 
feet, not only for the convenience of visitors, but also 
for the conveyance of water or liquid manure in hand- 
carts. 

In these beds are three rows of Roses, the rows 
sixteen inches from each other and seventeen 
inches from the grass, and the strongest and tallest 
growers naturally in the centre row. There should 
be no hesitation about planting the Roses pretty close 
to each other, for the bed will be all prepared and 
fed alike, and they will not rob each other much. 
Beginners are apt to make a mistake in this respect, 
probably having young trees and shrubs in their minds ; 
but they should remember that in the case of ordinary 



IV 



PLANTING 



47 



H.P.s and Teas grown in the open for the production 
of the finest blooms the Rose plants will not increase very 
much in size, for the annual pruning will prevent this. 
I have seen rows of standards whose distance apart 
might be counted by yards ; there might be some 
excuse for wanting " to hide the soil " in such cases. 

It will be found most convenient for reference and 
labelling, and especially if exhibiting is contemplated, 
to place all the plants of one variety together in a row ; 
and though the first idea is to dot them all about the 
beds, the effect will be better if they are massed 
together. 

Then the distance of the plants from each other in 
the rows should depend entirely upon the varieties; 
sorts that are spreading as well as tall and strong, such 
as Mrs. Paul, should be eighteen to twenty inches apart, 
while such as are upright as well as small growers, as 
Lady Mary Fitzwilliam, may be within nine or ten 
inches of each other. Between these extremes there 
will be many gradations, and care should be taken at 
the same time neither to inconvenience the plants by 
crowding nor to waste the room. Some tall sorts, like 
Francois Michelon, are upright and not wide and bushy, 
and do not therefore require much room ; while others, 
like Comtesse de Nadaillac, though dwarf are spreading 
in growth, and cover more ground in proportion. Some 
guide to these " manners and customs " of the varieties 
will be found in Chapter XII. It will be best, however, 
that the strong growers should be set wider apart if 
quantity rather than quality be aimed at, as in this 
case the plants will be allowed to increase in size at 
the annual pruning. The Gloire de Dijon race, 
Marechal Niel and the Noisettes, which are pruned on 
a different system and require much more space, should 



48 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



not be planted in the same beds with the H.P.s and 
Teas. 

But I am getting on too fast. We have to make up 
our beds after marking them out in the grass, and to 
do this properly everything will depend upon the 
nature of the soil and subsoil, instructions for dealing 
with which have been given in the last chapter. 
Whatever the soil may be, it should be moved at least 
two feet in depth ; and, unless the soil under that should 
prove thoroughly porous, affording good natural drainage, 
the beds must be properly pipe-drained by a competent 
and trustworthy man. That is the first thing ; without 
good drainage, natural or artificial, no success can be 
achieved. In any soil there should be perfect drainage, 
as cultivation depends upon it in many ways. All really 
worthless soil, chalk, gravel, or sand should be taken 
away, but long before this should have been the hunt 
among neighbouring farmers and landowners for good 
Rose material to take its place. When found and pur- 
chased, this good loam — the top spit of an old pasture 
if possible — or even actual clay, should be carted to the 
spot while the ground is yet hard in September, for 
the Roses are to be planted early in November, and the 
soil will do well to rest and consolidate a while before 
planting. 

Let the beds be dug out, as advised, to the depth of 
two clear spades at least ; and let it be understood that 
the material is to be made up in two portions or layers, 
whereof the lower is to be the larger. If among 
grass, reserve the turf to be chopped up and mixed 
into the upper portion. Next lay on one side all 
soil in the top spadefuls that seems fairly fertile, 
however light and dry ; it will be useful for a thin 
layer in immediate contact with the roots, for mixing 

i 



IV 



PLANTING 



49 



very slightly with the lower portion but more fully 
with the upper part, and for forming the topmost two 
inches of the bed. Then dig out the remainder of the 
depth agreed on, and see that the drainage is right. If 
the soil be good replace it, and if it be worthless cart 
it away, and fill in with the imported soil, which if it 
be actual clay should also have some of the lighter 
material worked in as thoroughly as possible. This 
lower portion should be about two-thirds of the whole 
in depth ; and if manure is to be added, let it be mixed 
freely with this alone, and not put into the upper part. 
If the bed is meant for Tea Roses, heavy soil is not 
necessary, and a large proportion of the lower part 
should consist of the best manure, remembering that 
the more manure is added the more the beds will sink 
eventually as it decays. 

The upper third of the bed should next be formed. 
If the imported material be loam, a good deal of this 
may be used ; but if it be clay it should be added very 
sparingly, and as well worked in as possible with a good 
deal of the lighter soil and the chopped turf, the upper 
two inches in all cases being of soil that the hoe will pass 
through freely and easily. The bed is now made up, 
with the strongest soil and manure forming the larger 
lower part over the drainage, and the upper one-third 
of rather more friable material, getting gradually more 
porous towards the top, for the admission of air and 
warmth and the encouragement of fibrous roots. The 
beds should not be trodden more than can be avoided, 
if there be time for them to settle ; it will be better if 
they are pressed gently from time to time, or allowed 
to sink naturally of themselves. 

By the first or second week in November the pur- 
chased plants ought to arrive, and these should have 

E 



50 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



been selected beforehand, if possible in the nurseryman's 
quarters, or at least ordered very early, as the good 
plants are sure to go first. They should not be sent 
before November, for though you may move your own 
plants with care in October, they do not stand a long 
journey well before they have lost their leaves. The 
bundle should always be unpacked at once, unless there 
be strong frost ; and if the frost continue, it will still 
be well to unpack them, remove the frozen surface from 
a piece of unoccupied light land, and " lay them in." 
This should be done with some care, seeing that the 
roots are not bruised or laid too closely together, that 
all are deeply covered with soil, and that the tops are 
also protected from the frost by green boughs, matting, 
or some such material. They should also be laid in if 
the weather is wet and planting cannot be proceeded 
with at once ; it is far better to do this than to plant 
when the soil is sticky. Nevertheless, every effort 
should be made to get the planting done in November, 
and not to defer it till the spring ; for I have often 
seen that fresh roots are commenced during the winter 
months by Roses planted in November. 

Great care should be used in disentangling and 
untying the heads of the Roses when unpacking, as 
there is still considerable danger with the " maiden " 
or one-year-old plants of the head being clean pulled 
out of the stock. Good plants will have good roots, that 
is, many and fibrous, rather than few, strong, and long. 
In " dwarf" Roses (by which term is understood all sorts 
even of the most vigorous growth which are budded 
on the stem of the stock near the root, and not on the 
branches to form standards), good plants will have very 
little length of stem between the roots and the point 
where the stock was budded, whether they be on briar or 



IV 



PLANTING 



51 



manetti : a perfect dwarf plant should have no " leg " at 
all. The wood should be ripe, firm, and hard, a fat red 
fleshy shoot being of no use, as it will certainly have to 
come off when the plant is pruned. There should be a 
good union between stock and scion, no failure visible in 
the joining, and no round knob formed by the Rose at 
the point of union ; but it should be evident that the 
stock has swelled and grown in proportion to the 
growth of the Rose. 

The roots should be pruned as soon as the Roses are 
unpacked, in the first place removing with a sharp 
knife any bruised or injured portions, and seeing that 
the ends of all the roots are clean cut ; secondly, 
shortening all of extra length, especially those which 
are fibreless or stiff ones which go straight down ; and 
thirdly, looking for suckers, which should be cut clean 
out, an easy way of distinguishing a sucker from a root 
being that the former gets thicker and the latter 
smaller the further it gets from the stem. The under- 
ground stem or main root should also be strictly 
examined for buds even in the most embryo stage. 
These should be carefully cut out, or they will certainly 
sooner or later form suckers. 

The art of packing Roses is well understood by the 
best nurserymen, and some damp material is generally 
placed in the package around the roots. It may 
occasionally happen, however, owing to the parcel being 
delayed on the railway, that the roots have got dry or 
even the bark of the Roses become shrivelled. In such 
a case, if matters have not gone too far, it may be well 
to try a method of recovery recommended by Mr. Frank 
Cant. Lay the Roses flat in the ground and bury them 
completely, roots and tops, six inches deep ; give the 
spot where they are buried a good soaking with water, 

E 2 



52 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



and at the end of three days it is said that the plants 
will be restored to their original condition. 

The very first opportunity when the soil is com- 
paratively dry should be chosen for the planting, and 
one of the most important points to remember is that 
the roots should never be allowed to become dry ; they 
should be kept under matting or damp leaves or soil 
till actually wanted, and exposed to the air as little as 
possible. Some recommend the dipping the roots in a 
pail of thick puddle composed of clay, cocoanut fibre 
dust, and water, as a protection from drying air ; but I 
do not think this is necessary or advisable where there 
are small fibrous roots, as these get matted together and 
cannot be separated without some danger of injury. In 
spring planting, if the sun be bright, it is safest to carry 
the Roses in a pail of water from the place where they 
have been laid in during the winter to the bed where 
they are to be planted. 

Another equally important point is that the Roses 
should not be planted too deeply. I consider four inches 
sufficient for " dwarfs " ; standards may be planted an 
inch or so deeper, and a little further apart from each 
other. Comparatively shallow planting, especially if 
the Roses are going to be cultivated and not neglected, 
is a great secret of success. A good piece of advice is 
to mark the line of soil upon the plant, and be careful 
not to cover it deeper than it was before ; and a bad one 
is to plant deeper in light soil to avoid the drought. 
The principle of shallow planting and dependence on 
horizontal surface roots is well understood by gardeners 
in the case of fruit-trees ; they will take much pains to 
cut the tap-roots, and will even " lift " the roots of their 
vines, peach, and other trees if they prove unfruitful, 
lay them in again nearer the surface, and encourage 



IV 



PLANTING 



53 



them by all means in their power to remain there. 
They know that the produce of tap-roots is gross wood 
without blossom, and that fibrous surface roots must 
be looked to for flowers and fruitfulness ; yet some 
recommend the seedling briar as a stock because it 
roots deeper, although we surely want flowers, not 
gross wood alone, from the Rose as well as the fruit- 
tree. 

In planting, therefore, at the depth recommended, 
carefully spread out the roots horizontally, equally in 
all directions if possible, though this cannot always be 
done, purchased dwarfs often having roots pointing only 
in one direction, which arises in some degree from 
carelessness and haste in originally planting the stocks. 
If a separate hole be made for each plant, let it be wide 
enough ; do not curve the roots or let them cross each 
other. If they naturally want to cross, or there be two 
or more going in the same direction, put some fairly 
light soil between them that they may lie in layers but 
always horizontally. See that the soil which is put 
against the roots themselves, or to cover each layer of 
roots, is at all events fairly fine and crumbly, if not 
actually dry and powdery ; lift the plant by the top up 
and down a little with a shaking movement to settle 
the soil more thoroughly amongst the fibres, and 
remember that the whole operation of planting is done 
much more thoroughly and expeditiously by two men 
than by one. If single-handed, a short pointed stick 
for scratching fine soil between the fibres will often be 
found more handy than trowel or spade. Just fairly 
cover all the roots with a couple of inches of soil, tread 
it very lightly and carefully, and pass on to the next 
plant, for the rest of the soil can be added at the 
conclusion of the day's work. 



54 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



In planting dwarfs the point of union should be, if the 
stock be manetti, two inches below the surface, and 
one inch if the plants are budded on briar cuttings. 
The Rose will then throw out roots of its own, which 
will not only help to feed it, but being nearer the sur- 
face will also hold the plant more securely against being 
rocked and loosened by the wind. Now therefore may 
be seen the immense disadvantage of a dwarf plant 
which is not budded sufficiently low on the stem : either 
the roots must be placed too deep or the point of union 
must be left uncovered. Order therefore with short 
" legs," and " see that you get them." It should be 
mentioned that Mr. Prince of Oxford, who is the 
principal advocate and the largest user of the seedling 
briar, does not advocate the covering of the point of 
union with this stock. I have seen some of his dwarf 
" cutbacks " on the seedling briar which certainly were 
flourishing exceedingly with the point of union two 
inches above the surface; but with the briar cutting 
I have found Roses do not thrive so well if thus planted, 
and with the manetti it is absolutely imperative that 
the point of union be well covered, or the plants will 
assuredly die. 

Standards must be securely staked at the time of 
planting, and it is better when the hole is made to 
put in the stake before any of the roots are covered, 
or otherwise some of the best of them may be inad- 
vertently bruised and injured. All the plants for the 
day having been put in, some more soil should be added 
to each plant, and then tread but lightly, make the sur- 
face level, and look to the row again in a few days with a 
rake, filling depressions and doing away with any 
cracks that may appear. This will be better than 
treading too heavily at the time of planting. If the 



IV 



PLANTING 



55 



weather should continue very dry watering may be 
desirable ; and if the plants have good green leaves on 
when put in, the heads should be watered at once on 
unpacking, and the plants well watered and syringed 
immediately after planting. 

It is easy to imagine a beginner having some uneasy 
reflections after following the above instructions. ' : I 
have planted my roses only four inches deep, and 
trained the roots horizontally, as certainly seems right 
from the analogy of fruit trees and from what I know 
of the advantage to roots of the fertilising influences 
of sun, air, and the surface bacteria. But all my 
manure, and I gave a great quantity of valuable stuff 
to my Teas, has been buried from eight to twenty-four 
inches deep, and what is the use of all that manure 
there, if the roots are not to be allowed to go down 
to it?" 

Here comes in another important principle, to illus- 
trate which I will take as my text the soil in which 
hyacinths and other bulbs are grown in immense 
quantities in Holland for sale. This soil is extremely 
valuable, as the profit on the cultivation in good hands 
may reach quite £50 an acre. And what is it ? Pure 
sand and nothing else for a depth of four feet or more, 
which no English farmer would take rent free. Yet 
the hyacinth must have plenty of water. We all know 
that in a hyacinth glass a fine plant and noble flower 
may be produced from the bulb with nothing but water 
given. We also know from this glass culture that the 
roots of hyacinths do go down some depth, considerably 
more than the height of the glass. And it should 
further be stated that the sand in the soil spoken of 
rests upon a water-bearing stratum of clayey peat, in 
fact the general water level of the whole country. But 



56 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



it seems almost impossible that hyacinth roots should 
reach down vertically for four feet or more, and quite 
impossible that they should start and form such a 
length of root without the aid of water. If, however, 
the water was always slightly rising up through the 
sand, and moreover the roots had a power of attraction 
almost equivalent to suction, the impossibility would 
vanish. And so it is. Water, or rather moisture, does 
rise through the soil by capillary attraction, as it will 
up through a sponge or piece of flannel. Just so mois- 
ture is always more or less rising up through the earth, 
though of course a quantity in time of rain or im- 
mediately after sinks down through it. It rises most 
of all when the sun shines hot and the surface is 
dry, and then the Rose, which likes heat and a friable 
air-permeated surface above and a " cool bottom " 
below, rejoices in the rich moisture which the roots 
appropriate as it rises up through the manure from 
below. 

In thus recommending the placing of all manure at 
planting time beneath the horizontally lying roots, and 
incorporating none in the soil at their own level, it is 
but fair to say that I believe few Rose-growers will 
agree with me. I am, however, a strong believer, as 
the next chapter will show, in artificial and liquid 
manures as the best means of feeding Roses, especially 
if they are supplied at the outset with soil of the right 
texture and material. I am strongly of opinion that a 
great many newly planted Roses fail to thrive, because 
manure, generally too fresh, is placed close to the roots. 
It is frequently not at hand in a sufficiently decom- 
posed state for such a position ; and if it is, a great part 
of the manurial value has probably been lost in the de- 
composition. It would still be useful for forming humus 



IV 



PLANTING 



57 



where raw soil taken from some distance below the sur- 
face is used, but the upper portion of all soils has 
generally sufficient of this. 

For these reasons I recommend strong rich fresh 
soil in preference to the addition of solid manure, and 
that if any be used it be placed underneath, where it 
may be used before it has lost its strength. 

It must be borne in mind that shallow planting 
is of no use without cultivation, Avhich is done by 
the Dutch hoe constantly at work on the surface. 
This causes more rapid evaporation from the actual 
inch or two disturbed and it soon becomes dry, but 
at the same time by closing the pores and filling up 
cracks it checks the evaporation from below, so that 
the moisture drawn up from beneath in the manure 
reaches the roots, and yet cannot escape into the air 
in vapour. I consider this one of the most important 
points in the " cultivation " of the Kose. 

As to mulching for winter protection of the roots I 
do not believe it to be necessary, but the soil should be 
loose on the surface even in winter, for a friable and 
well-cultivated surface is a mulch as has just been 
seen. Very long shoots of dwarf Roses may be short- 
ened, not too much, but only to prevent the wind get- 
ting much hold of them. This does not apply to the 
Noisettes, Marechal Niel, or the Dijon race of Teas, 
whose long shoots must be protected and tied to some 
support. 

If the collection is quite small, labels of as per- 
manent a nature as possible may be used ; but in large 
collections, especially where, for exhibition, many of a 
sort are grown together in rows, a book with the rows 
numbered and the names written in order will be 
found most convenient. 



58 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



But the tender and delicate Teas are to be protected 
from frost, and how is this best to be done ? 

Long manure is unsightly and unclean, and difficult 
to get away properly, while clean straw looks untidy 
and messy and is not a good protection. For a long 
time bracken (the common brake-fern) has been 
recommended by nurserymen, and good and useful it is 
where it can be had. If it can be procured at a 
reasonable price per load, a stipulation should be made 
that it be cut before it has got quite sere, in fact just 
when it begins to turn. In this case the leafy parts will 
adhere much longer to the skeleton stalks ; but care must 
be taken that it be not laid before use even in small 
heaps, or it will be sure to heat to a certain extent and 
speedily rot. It should be put lightly yet thickly 
around and amongst the dwarf Teas and into their 
heads : there is no fear of its blowing away, but after a 
heavy snow it may get beaten down a little too much, 
and a further supply, which should be kept in sheaves, 
standing in stooks, may be added. For standards it is 
a capital protection, tied tightly together at the top, 
and allowed to hang down all round, with a looser 
fastening at the bottom, as a sort of rough thatch : 
wheat straw may also be used in this manner, but if fir 
or laurel boughs be the protecting material chosen, the 
plant may be too top-heavy to stand a violent wind 
without some additional support. 

For a few dwarf Teas a rude platform of crotched 
sticks with poles laid on them to support fir or ever- 
green boughs answers generally very well : in this 
case it would be good for the plants to remove the 
protection when there is no severe frost; and it may 
be taken as a general rule that frost to the extent 
of ten to twelve or even more degrees will do no harm 



IV 



PLANTING 



59 



in the winter, if it be not unduly prolonged or accom- 
panied by a dry east wind. 

Another material for the protection of dwarf Teas 
that seemed very reasonable and good at first is earth 
itself. To use this, the rows of plants are earthed up 
by a hoe, or even in large quantities by a plough, in 
the same manner that potatoes are treated in the spring, 
to the height of about six inches ; in any mode, no pro- 
tection need be applied to the tops of the plants, as a 
great deal will necessarily be cut away in the spring 
pruning. But if the roots run horizontally and shallow, 
as they should do, there is considerable danger of injur- 
ing them in scraping up sufficient earth, and a fresh 
supply for the purpose from elsewhere is heavy and 
inconvenient to move away again. 

I find the cheapest, most convenient, and handy 
material for the protection of dwarf Teas from frost to 
be dead leaves, which will just have fallen and should 
have been gathered together in time for use. If applied 
thickly enough, they appear to afford ample protection 
against any frost and when heaped together on the 
beds they probably generate a small supply of heat 
in themselves. 

They should be put a foot to eighteen inches in depth 
all over, around, inside, and between the plants, and I do 
not find that they blow away in appreciable quantity, 
except perhaps on the very outside, where they may be 
renewed. They will be beaten down and consolidated 
a little by snow and rain, when a fresh supply if 
necessary can be added. 

I believe these to be the best protection: they are 
Nature's own covering: the bed-clothes she herself 
provides for the winter sleep of her tender plants, and 
even apples accidentally left on the ground under the 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



fallen leaves, have been often found fresh and in good 
condition in the early spring. Whatever the covering 
be, it should not be removed till the end of March or 
beginning of April, when the plants are ready to be 
pruned, unless the quantity be so small that the cover- 
ing can be very quickly replaced. 

Tea Roses on walls can be easily protected by ever- 
green boughs hung on nails : if fir branches be used, 
the needles or leaves will begin to drop off in early 
spring : this has a good effect in exposing the plant 
gradually, and so hardening it off, but the needles should 
be swept away and not suffered to work into the soil. 
It must be remembered in this case and in that of 
standards that it is no use protecting the upper shoots 
if any part of the actual Rose below is left exposed. 
The very lowest part of the Tea Rose as budded on 
the briar is the important place ; if that be killed the 
whole plant is destroyed ; but if even an inch of sound 
wood is alive at the very bottom, though all the rest be 
killed, the Rose will probably grow up again as strong as 
ever. 

In very severe frosts and on low-lying grounds there 
is, however, great difficulty in keeping standard Teas 
alive during the winter. Leaves or earth, the most 
efficient protectors, seem impossible of application ; and 
as the best Tea Rose blooms are produced on standards, 
heavy losses are often experienced by exhibitors. 
Digging the standards bodily up, and, after laying them 
carefully in rows in the earth, covering them with 
boughs or soil has been tried and recommended. For 
the weakly growers, such as Comtesse de Nadaillac, 
Princess of Wales, or Cleopatra, if on strong stems, this 
may answer fairly well ; but for the stronger sorts 
with large heads, such as Marie van Houtte and Anna 



IV 



PLANTING 



61 



Olivier, it seems a pity to lose the advantage of estab- 
lished plants. I have tried half-measures, with great 
success so far as the frost was concerned ; this consisted 
of digging the rows of plants up, or at least loosening 
them, on one side only, then bending and pegging 
them down flat on the ground and covering them 
first with straw and then with earth. Though com- 
pletely uninjured by severe frost, they did not do so well 
afterwards as I hoped they would, but it was an excep- 
tional season, and I should try it again but that I have 
found a higher spot for my standard Teas, where, with 
due protection of their heads, they have survived 
severe frost without having to be moved. 

Marechal Niel is very liable to injury from frost, 
especially in the long strong shoots of the year, which 
if unhurt will produce the best blooms. As a standard 
in the open, where it can be efficiently protected (the 
plant from frost in winter and the blooms from rain in 
summer), it does not indeed afford such a wealth of 
early flowers as under glass or against a wall, but it 
becomes a true perpetual bloomer, and from such 
plants alone can Eoses be cut for exhibition. In 
low-lying and cold situations standards should be 
planted at a very sharp angle, so that the heads 
are not more than eighteen inches or two feet at 
most from the ground, and wires arranged for the 
training of the shoots in summer horizontally and quite 
low. These should be unfastened at the end of Novem- 
ber, or even earlier, and stem and shoots all pegged down 
as closely to the ground as possible without straining or 
cracking anything ; the whole may then be well covered 
with straw or bracken, and finally with a sufficient 
covering of earth, well flattened with the spade : they 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



will thus be " clamped," in just the same maimer as 
mangold heaps are protected in the fields. If the plants 
are grown as " dwarfs " on the briar cutting or seedling, 
care must be taken to train the strong young shoots low 
and horizontally while they are yet soft, or it will be 
difficult to peg them down without their breaking. 
They should be uncovered and raised earlier than the 
other Teas if in a warm position, as the buds are very 
susceptible to the first heat of the sun. 

When briars have been budded with Teas, the tiny 
bud, on which so much depends, is of course in danger 
in hard frost. An old piece of advice from Mr. Rivers 
was to paint it with two or three coats of collodion, 
which forms a white skin : I tried this for two years but 
cannot credit it with protection of much value. I 
strongly recommend for the protection of these Tea buds 
the little straw covers or cases in which wine-merchants 
send out their bottles ; there can be little difficulty in 
obtaining these in quantity, as I believe they have no 
value, except for lighting fires. It should be seen that 
the ties are secure, especially that the one at the top is 
tight and sound, and then they form capital nightcaps, 
which are, I believe, as good protection as could be 
wished. In the case of dwarfs the wild briar shoots are 
cut close back, but the whole head not removed till the 
spring, as the projections hold the nightcap in position; 
and in the same way the budded lateral on standards is 
cut back only just short enough to allow the cap to pass 
over, when it is held quite sufficiently against the wind. 
The bud is thus actually thatched, and provided with 
what is practically a waterproof as well as a warm 
covering, though not impervious to air. The cases can 
be very readily taken off or replaced if necessary, and 



IV 



PLANTING 



63 



the covering increased by surrounding the dwarfs with 
leaves, or by putting another larger case over the other 
on the standards. 

Any Rosarian, who has had valuable Tea-Rose plants 
killed in past winters, will find it a great comfort when 
he hears the cruel North-easter blow, or finds his sponge 
frozen in the morning, to know that his Rose-pets are 
well supplied with bed-clothes and nightcaps to keep 
out the frost. 



CHAPTER V 



MANURES 

" Manures " may seem an unsavoury subject to those 
lovers of the Rose who only know of the flowers as seen 
in the garden or after they are cut ; but to the Rose- 
nurses, under whose constant care each shoot grows 
onwards to the perfect bloom, it is as important a matter 
as the food of a babe is to its mother. The Rose 
enthusiast, for whom I write, has no objection to exploring 
the recesses of a muck-heap — he rejoices in the discovery 
of a dead well of really good stuff — and wonders much 
how others can find any objection to the wholesome and 
invigorating fragrance from a big watercart full of the 
drainings of a cow-shed. 

The Rose is said to be a gross feeder, but this does not 
seem a satisfactory statement, for though it will take 
and absorb, and " answer to treatment " as doctors say, 
in the reception of large quantities of strong manure, 
yet is it fastidious in the manner of its application. 
The roots of the same plant which when strong and 
well established will rejoice in liquid rank enough to 
bring the worms struggling to the surface, or even 
under some circumstances to kill the weeds, will, when 
that plant is moved in November, become sickly and 



CHAP. V 



MANURES 



05 



perhaps die if they are placed in the planting in contact 
with fresh, raw, and insufficiently decayed manure. The 
roots of the Rose like to run and feed in thoroughly 
' fertilised soil of the proper texture and quality in 
preference to actual manure ; and this is why fresh soil, 
the top " spit " of an old pasture with the turf, liquid 
manure of different sorts, or artificial if the exact 
amount and proportions can be found, have more satis- 
factory results as a rule than any quantity of solid 
manure incorporated in the soil. 

It may be said that the soils of many a garden are, 
from long manuring, thoroughly fertilised earth : and 
indeed the manetti stock, which seems to like this sort 
of ground, budded with H.P.s in a favourable situation 
(that is, well away from trees or shrubs or any strong 
vegetation), will often give very satisfactory results the 
first season in an old garden. But this dark old soil, 
very rich in humus and decayed vegetable matter, though 
it may be much benefited by a dressing of lime, is 
generally wanting in some of the mineral constituents 
which the Rose requires, for though heavily manured it 
has probably been also heavily cropped, and the Rose 
likes fresh virgin soil if possible. A naturally strong, 
rich, rather heavy loam is what the H.P. Rose likes, as 
fresh and unrobbed as possible ; but wonders may be 
done for the Teas by manure, solid, liquid, and artificial, 
even on a poor light soil. 

Natural solid Manure. — It will be seen from the 
above that I do not consider solid manure to be the 
best form in which to give food to Roses ; and in fact, 
all my H.P.s, and many of my Teas which have done 
well, have never had any natural solid manure at all. 
But many other good authorities may very likely be 
of a different opinion, and I should quite allow that 

F 



GG 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE chap. 



solid manure, in the right condition and properly 
applied, is of great benefit to Tea Roses. 

Taking first the ordinary manure made with straw 
from stable, cowshed, or pigstye, it is generally allowed 
that as the Rose likes " a cool bottom," and stable manure 
is " hot," and cow manure " cool," as a rule the former 
is the worse and the latter the better for the purpose. 
In clay soils stable manure would be allowable and 
perhaps even advisable ; but, otherwise, that from cow- 
sheds or, better still, from a yard where highly fed 
bullocks are kept, would be the best of all natural solid 
manure, the pigstye contribution ranking next in value, 
and the general heap from a farmyard where horses are 
not predominant being good enough for ordinary 
purposes. 

The next question is, Is it to be dug into the soil, 
or used as a top-dressing ? I never could see how 
manure can be dug into the ground among estab- 
lished Roses without bruising and disturbing the 
roots and bringing the manure into contact with 
them, unless the roots run nearly straight down, 
and that, as has been seen in the last chapter, is 
not desirable. Attempts are sometimes made to get 
over the difficulty by saying it is to be " forked in," 
or " pricked in," or " pointed in " or even " hoed in." 
I have never seen these operations, and should not 
know how to attempt them ; if the manure is merely 
just hidden by a thin layer of earth, weeds will be 
encouraged and the hoe, the tool of cultivation, dis- 
couraged. If buried deeper, a fork would be a less 
efficient tool for the purpose than a spade, and, to do 
the work, would disturb the roots as much. The manure, 
to my mind, should be got in first where used at all, 
and should be sufficiently deep to be well under the 



V 



MANURES 



07 



roots as explained in the last chapter, where I have, 
I hope, escaped from the apparent inconsistency of 
urging that the roots should not run deep though the 
manure be beneath them. 

How, satisfactorily, to apply solid manure to estab- 
lished roses, otherwise than at the time of moving the 
plants, or as a top-dressing, is a problem I am unable 
to solve. But if it be incorporated with the soil among 
the roots, as is done by many good cultivators, though 
I am against it, we must consider what its condition 
should be. It should be thoroughly decomposed and 
"sweetened" so as to have lost its objectionable quali- 
ties to the human senses, for not till then is it suited 
for contact with the roots of the Rose. It is quite true 
that manure does lose some of its valuable constituents 
by rotting so far, especially if exposed to the wash of 
heavy showers ; if the solid be preferred to the liquid, 
it should be protected from rain, and yet kept just 
damp enough to decompose thoroughly, and turned 
of course, as every labourer knows how, to prevent 
too rapid heating. 

If a top-dressing be used, no confusion must be made 
between this and a mulch. It is not uncommon to find, 
in instructions on planting, one to the effect 'that when 
the job is done a coating of long manure, which may be 
forked in at spring time, should be laid on the top to 
protect the roots from the frost. In the first place it 
is the plant itself, not the roots, which most requires 
protection from frost ; I have already expressed my 
desire to know how any manure, much less long stuff, 
is to be " forked " into the soil in a useful and harmless 
manner ; and I wonder quite as much what good can 
be done by long straw, washed clean by the winter's 
snow and rains, if it is got in. A manure and a mulch 

F 2 



G8 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



are two different things, and should not be confounded ; 
the former is for feeding and fertilising objects, and 
the latter for protection against frost, heat, or drought. 
Some little good may be washed out of it into the 
soil, but when wanted no longer it should be removed. 

Well then, shall we apply our solid manure, for food 
during the spring and early summer, as a top-dressing ? 
If we do, it is plain that the roots can only feed on 
what is washed from it through the soil by rain or 
watering, and that the same advantage could be got 
by liquid manure alone. To this it might be answered 
that a long drizzling yet thorough rain would wash 
" the good " out of the top-dressing more gradually 
and with better effect than could be produced by 
applying liquid manure in quantity, and if the top- 
dressing was exhausted by much rain, a new supply 
could take its place. This is true, but a top-dressing 
has its drawbacks : — not only in its unsightliness, for 
the enthusiast will think nothing of that — he wants 
the most perfect Roses and will endure anything for 
that object — but that, if laid on thick enough to be of 
any service in feeding, it hinders the beneficent 
influences of sun and air, brings weeds of its own and 
makes their extirpation troublesome and, above all, 
prevents the most important cultivation of the surface 
during May and June by the Dutch hoe. 

It should be understood that in recommending, in 
this and the previous chapter, no solid manure in the 
soil except completely under the roots, I shall be 
considered by many of the best and most successful 
cultivators to be airing a private " fad," which is not 
generally recognised by Rosarians. One ought, however, 
to state one's own convictions : and I quite believe 
that as a rule more harm than good is done by mixing 



V 



MANURES 



69 



ordinary manure, especially in a fresh state, with the 
soil immediately surrounding the roots. 

A very good authority recommends that, in planting, 
the manure be applied in the fashion of a sandwich ; 
that is, I take it, manure below, then soil, then the 
roots, then more soil, some manure over that, and the 
soil again at the surface. The danger here, I think, 
would be of either making the top layer of manure so 
thin as to be nearly useless, or getting the roots too 
deep. 

Top-dressings of brewers' grains, or other compounds, 
are recommended by Dean Hole and other writers, but 
I think that some of the above disadvantages would be 
found connected with any one of them. 

Of solid manure not made up of straw, night-soil is 
perhaps the most important. And as a strong believer 
in the earth system I am tempted here to enlarge upon 
the well worn theme of the folly of civilised mankind in 
wasting immense quantities of manure, which they 
spend large sums in replacing, by discharging it into the 
rivers where it does untold harm instead of returning 
it to the earth, as God commanded Moses, to the great 
advantage of their health, their pockets, and their 
gardens and fields. 

Science continues to show more and more, on the one 
hand by the light it throws on the dissemination by 
water of typhoid fever and cholera, and on the other by 
the discovery of the purifying mission of the bacteria 
in the surface soil, that earth is the best receptacle for 
night-soil and water the worst. But after all the 
earth system is not practicable in large towns, and is 
troublesome to enforce in villages. 

There is naturally great difficulty in dealing satis- 
factorily with night-soil as a manure for Roses, and 



70 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



often it is probably not worth the trouble when it can 
be dug in quickly for vegetable crops, and other good 
manure is procurable. Mr. William Paul, in his large 
work, The Rose Garden, describes a mode of using 
it which involves mixing with earth, burying for six 
months, and afterwards mixing and turning over once 
or twice more. This seems to require a good deal of 
labour, but then it must be noticed that he considers 
it the best of all manures for Roses on light soils, and 
that it has a very marked effect on the growth I can 
testify from an instance in my own garden. During 
the winter a quantity of night-soil was deeply buried 
near to a sweet-briar, into which I had put a bud of 
Marechal Niel ; and one of the shoots from that bud, 
being laid along a wall, reached in the course of the 
summer a length of 27 feet. 

Manure from the fowl-house or dove-cote is good, 
but transitory : it should be kept from rain, and not 
put on in the winter. 

The old custom of burying the carcasses of dead 
animals in vine borders is now discredited, and I 
should not recommend it for Roses. Bones, though 
most useful for the phosphates they contain, do not 
supply all the necessary constituents, and had better 
be left to the manufacturers of artificial manures. 

2. Liquid Manure. — I have hinted at the advant- 
ages which I conceive to belong to manure in a liquid 
state. (1.) In the first place, it is plain that the roots 
of a Rose cannot take up anything except fluids : con- 
sequently, only those parts of solid manure which are 
soluble can be of any use as food, and therefore liquid 
manure can supply everything that solids can. (2.) 
Secondly, the problem is by this means solved of how 
to get fresh food to the roots without disturbing them 



V 



MANURES 



71 



(3.) And lastly, the food can be given just when it is 
wanted, and withheld when it is not wanted. 

1. As to the first of these points, let the beginner 
not only remember himself, but also diligently im- 
press upon his assistant, that Roses drink but cannot 
eat. The ordinary labourer will not believe in the 
strength or virtue of a clear fluid — from perhaps a 
hazy comparison with his own beer, he distrusts any- 
thing that is not thick ; and he will be careful to apply 
the dregs of the liquid manure cart or cask, " because 
that's where all the good is." It should be pointed out 
to him that what cannot be dissolved in water cannot 
be assimilated by the Rose, and he should be told not to 
put on the dregs, which may sometimes do harm. Of 
course time, chemical changes, and the power of the 
earth bacteria may and do eventually dissolve materials 
which remain solid in ordinary water; but liquid 
manure is as a rule for present immediate use, and 
therein lies one of its great advantages. 

2. By liquid manure we can reach all the roots at 
once without disturbing them in the actual time of 
their most vigorous growth ; and we can supply the 
Rose with what it wants, soil thoroughly stored 
with food ready cooked as it were for immediate 
absorption, rather than solid manure in the soil which 
may or may not have all the materials ready in a soluble 
state. 

3. To obtain fine fruit, from an apple, pear or peach- 
tree, for instance, every gardener knows that manure 
is wanted when the fruit is set and beginning to swell : 
that earlier it may induce too much wood : and that a 
tree which has no fruit is best without manure, as the 
extra nourishment is more likely to produce wood than 
fruit buds. Roses do not form quite an analogous case ; 



72 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



for in most cases manure given early will not hinder the 
flowering, and a certain length and strength of stem are 
necessary for a good bud, but occasionally it might 
cause the wood to be longer than necessary and the 
bloom to be delayed. At all events it is when once the 
tiny bud is formed that the Rose most needs support ; 
all the powers of roots and leaves are at that time 
devoted to the Rose itself, and then is the special op- 
portunity for feeding with a lavish hand. Do not be afraid 
of making your Roses " coarse" : we can always find room 
for superfluous energy by less rigorous pruning in 
spring, or later by judicious caution or delay in 
disbudding. 

The ordinary liquid manure which I should recom- 
mend would be the drainings after rain from cowyard 
or pigstye or both, but not from the stable, which 
is often, from being less diluted, too strong. Free 
access to a tank containing the drainings and storm- 
washings of a cow or bullock yard is well worth paying 
for by any Rosarian. As a rule it will not require 
dilution, for I have used quantities of it for years and 
never found it too strong for established plants, even 
though it may bring up and kill the earth-worms. In 
such a case, though, it may also kill any leaf it touches, 
and should be put on with care, not letting a drop fall 
upon the plant. In dry weather the contents of such 
a tank from a covered yard might possibly be too 
strong, and it is well to be cautious ; but it is a 
fortunate circumstance that after rain is the best 
opportunity for applying liquid manure, viz., just the 
time when such a tank would be full and not too strong. 

This should be remembered as a possible error for 
an assistant to make ; he may be apt to think that 
when the ground is dry is the time for liquid manure, 



V 



MANURES 



73 



but it is not so : the drier the ground and the season 
the weaker the manure and the purer the water that 
should be given. My Tea Roses which won the 
Challenge Cup at the Crystal Palace in the very dry 
year of 1893 had no liquid manure at all that season, 
and were only twice watered with pure water. If in a 
dry time liquid manure is available, and it is desired 
to put it on, it would be advisable to give a thorough 
soaking with pure water first. 

But, as I have said, it fortunately happens that 
liquid manure is generally to be had just when it is 
advisable to apply it — after a good rain. 

Another mistake that may be be made is this : — " I 
have only got a certain amount of rich liquid, and that 
healthy vigorous plant does not want it, I am sure ; but 
this poor weakly thing would certainly be the better 
for a dose." 

This would be an error in principle as well as in fact. 
The principle is a Gospel one, and may be found in St. 
Luke xix. 24 — 26. It comes into Rose-growing in 
more than one way ; notably, in pruning, that less in 
proportion should be cut away from strong growers 
than from weakly ones ; in selection (for ordinary 
purposes, not for exhibition), that a man should culti- 
vate most specimens of the varieties which do well with 
him, and not endeavour to make up the balance by 
growing more of those which only sometimes come 
good ; and here, in feeding, in two ways, for not only 
does it pay better, as graziers and all keepers of live 
stock know, to encourage the healthy than to coddle and 
nurse the weak, but also the weak cannot use the rich 
food which makes the strong still stronger. Giving 
strong meat to babes wastes the food and also seriously 
injures the feeble, who must take but cannot assimilate it. 



74 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



We should never be afraid of making our plants too 
strong ; for we can always divert the stream of sap and 
lessen its sup|:>ly to each bud by leaving a greater 
number of shoots or buds on the plant at the two 
periods of disbudding. I have even heard of cutting 
the roots of La Boule d'Or in the early summer when 
the thick strong fleshy buds by their extra vigour seem 
unlikely to open properly, but should never advise it. 
At all events the weakening of a shoot or plant may be 
easily and speedily accomplished ; it is the getting up 
full steam that taxes all our time and energy. 

In speaking of weakly plants, I do not mean the 
naturally " dwarf " and " moderate " growers, which if 
healthy and doing well according to their habit will 
take their full share and enjoy it, though naturally not 
requiring so much as the stronger growers. Comtesse 
de Nadaillac will require her food and answer to it in 
size of glorious flowers, but an extra dose will not raise 
her to the stature of Ulrich Brunner. I meant either 
an evidently unhealthy plant, or one which though 
fairly healthy does not from some unknown cause thrive 
and do as well as the others. Such a one had always 
better be removed than kept and nursed ; try giving 
it away ; it does not sound very generous, but removal 
to a different soil and situation will be either kill or cure, 
and experience will show many wonderful instances of 
the latter eventuality. 

Care should also be taken that newly moved plants 
may have their liquid manure much weaker till they 
have made some strong growth with large healthy new 
leaves. The wrong principle, then, is the supposing 
that because a plant is the strongest in the bed it 
therefore wants the least of the liquid manure ; on the 
contrary, it wants, because it can use, the most. 



V 



MANURES 



75 



The time for using liquid manure is May and June, 
especially after rain if possible ; if some be given in 
April, be careful of the young foliage, and do not give 
any to " maiden " dwarfs till they have made some 
growth, being extra careful in this case that no drops 
fall on the plant itself. But will this be sufficient for 
a whole year's food ? That would depend a good deal 
on the soil, and whether artificial or natural solid 
manures were used as well. It is not advisable to apply 
any in the autumn after July, as the second growth of 
wood is always much stronger than the first, and will 
not require further encouragement which might make 
the plants grow too late and fail to ripen properly. 
If we put on liquid manure in the winter, no doubt 
a good deal of its virtue is washed away before the 
roots can feed on it ; but some of it will remain, and 
I think it is always worth doing. At that time it may 
be supplied much stronger and more concentrated than 
in the summer without fear of harm. 

As to the manner of application, it may be put on 
by water-pot, pail or hose, or whatever is quickest, 
provided it soaks in. Unfortunately the surface of the 
soil is often such that the wash and dash close the 
pores of the earth, and the liquid for the moment 
cannot penetrate but runs off. Where much watering 
with liquid manure is contemplated, or under any 
circumstances where the natural soil is light and porous 
and the drainage good, it is best to have the surface 
of the beds below the general level of the ground ; the 
whole can then be flooded, as it were. If, however, the 
beds are somewhat raised and the liquid runs off, there 
is nothing for it but patience ; a little at a time and 
come back again and again to the same place. 

In early spring we may sometimes find an occasion, 



76 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



(JHAF. 



in a light frost, when just the crust of the surface is 
sufficiently frozen to prevent the wash of the particles, 
and the pores remain open ; at such times, on my beds, 
the liquid will sink in at once as through a sieve as 
long as you like to pour it on. Given the time, and 
plenty of good stuff, a large amount and depth of soil 
may be fertilised on such opportunities. 

Two good rules for watering with liquid manure or 
plain water are : — Firstly, mind it is done thoroughly ; 
be sure you give a good soaking while you are about 
it ; remember " an inch of rain " means nearly five 
gallons to the square yard, and always do a little space 
at a time satisfactorily and fully rather than a mere 
wetting over a large extent. 

And secondly, be sure that the surface is always 
stirred by the hoe as soon as possible after every 
soaking, whether it be the natural one of rain or the 
artificial one of water or liquid manure. This is most 
important ; when the sun shines on the thoroughly 
soaked ground in summer it is sure to cause it to 
crack, often before the top is quite dry ; as soon as you 
can work it, get just the surface dry again and as fine 
and powdery as possible with the hoe, for this keeps 
the moisture in, whereas the cracks allow it to escape. 

Soap water from a laundry has some value as a 
liquid manure, though too much may render the land 
sour. And though not sufficient for Roses by itself, 
it is a capital thing to use mixed with other liquid which 
may be considered too strong. It is well in this case to 
be specially guarded against the dregs, a greasy scum 
which chokes the soil pores, and also to remember that 
nothing smells nastier than soapsuds which have stood 
for three or four days, especially in a hot sun. Amateur 
Inspectors of Nuisances are not always aware of this. 



V 



MANURES 



The overflow water from a cesspool is very good as liquid 
manure, and hardly ever too strong for anything ; my 
overflow tank is regularly emptied on my garden at 
night every full moon by pump and hand cart, for 
nothing from my house goes into the river, but all into 
the garden. There is some obvious inconvenience about 
this in the summer, and we have at that time to choose 
our nights with care : I do not then put it on the Rose 
beds, as it has sometimes to be done hastily, and more 
care and better light would be required. It should be 
understood that the contents of the overflow or second 
cesspool are quite as good if not better than the night- 
soil itself, for the value is hi the liquid. It is desirable, 
if possible, to have a separate tank with pumps for the 
contents of housemaids' slop-pails ; this will be the most 
valuable liquid manure that comes from the house, and 
will generally not be so offensive but that, with choice 
of opportunity, it may be applied in the daytime. 

Soot water is good, but would be expensive and 
troublesome to use in quantity ; it is more useful for pot 
plants. The soot should be tied up in a bag and sunk 
in a cask or tank, and the result is a clear liquid of a 
wine colour, much appreciated by gardeners for mild 
fertilisation. 

Artificial Manures. — It is not necessary to go into 
the discovery by the great scientists of the possibility of 
manufacturing by chemistry plant manures, which are 
called artificial not because they are not the real things 
but simply because they are made and compounded by 
art and science. It will suffice to state that those 
wonderful fellows the analytical chemists, who are 
always wanting to find out what things are made of, 
showed that as growing plants consist of certain 
soluble minerals in different proportions, so (they 



78 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



insisted) those minerals with the addition of nitrogen 
would, in the proper proportions, make real, though 
artificially made, manure. They first of all discovered 
the component parts of a plant by burning it and 
analysing the ashes, and they then said (and proved it), 
These are the things of which the plant is made, and 
therefore with these things it can be fed. They found 
next that the different parts of a plant, roots, stem, 
leaves and flowers, often had the principal constituents 
in very different proportions, but this could be allowed 
for in considering which part of the plant is most 
valuable. The obvious next step was to analyse the 
soil too, and it was found that some of the mineral con- 
stituents of plants are practically present in sufficient 
quantities in nearly all soils, but that some land is 
deficient in one material, and some in another. A 
pleasing picture was then presented to the cultivator, 
that, with the analyses before him of his own soil and of 
the plant he intended to grow, it was comparatively easy 
to see just how much he required of each mineral con- 
stituent to feed his plants fully and perfectly. 

But analysis of soil was found to be a very different 
thing from that of a plant; you cannot adulterate 
a plant or put anything into its frame which the roots 
will not naturally take up ; thus all plants of the same 
species or variety would analyse alike, but very few 
samples of soil from the same field would agree together. 
The analysis is necessarily minute, and takes account of 
everything ; the droppings of a bird or tiny animal may 
have rested on the spot for a while and added some 
fertile elements, or just that portion may have been im- 
poverished of one or more special items by the roots of 
a plant or weed which is no longer present. Only a 
rough estimate therefore of the general fertility of a soil 



V 



MANURES 



79 



can be formed by chemical analysis of Mother Earth 
which receives all things, and sometimes even this 
estimate may be fallacious. 

Nevertheless, the general value of all soils can be 
fairly estimated from the practical test of past results ; 
and it is pretty well known what constituents are 
generally present or absent in the average soils of clay, 
loam, peat, chalk, gravel or sand. Besides, if all the 
constituents of a plant are chemically added to the soil 
in the right proportion, all is there which is needed ; for 
an excess of one constituent will be inert and valueless 
unless all the others are present in the same propor- 
tion. 

In The Bosarians Year-Booh for 1889, edited by Rev. 
H. H. D'Ombrain, Secretary to the National Rose 
Society, there was a very interesting and valuable paper 
on artificial manure for Roses, by Mr. E. Tonks, B.C.L. 
The analysis of the ashes of the Rose are there given in 
a table from Wolffs Aschen Analysen, Berlin, 1871, 
1880, as follows :— 





Potash. 


Soda. 


Lime. 


Magnesia. 


Iron. 


Phosphorus. 


Sulphur. 


Silica. 


Chlorine. 




13-45 


4-20 


40 -S8 


7-15 


2-86 


29-14 


1-95 


0-21 


0*21 






14-25 


2-57 


-51-50 


7-62 


4-23 


10-62 


2-22 


4-35 


2-78 






33 13 


1-47 


31-29 


9-23 


2-49 


11-68 


4-31 


5-71 


0-89 






47-41 


2-44 


13-25 


5-94 


0-97 


28-46 


3-17 


1-52 


0-57 





On reasoning from this to get a proper chemical manure 
for Roses, the first thing to remember is that there is 
one most important item not found in ash analysis, 



80 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



and that is nitrogen, for which in a chemical formula 
the uninitiated must look for the words " nitrate " or 
" ammonia." Nitrogen is the stimulant which gives life 
to the whole, like the spark of fire which gives such 
mighty power to the loaded cannon, or (to use more 
humble imagery) the penny in the slot which sets 
the whole elaborated machinery in motion. Mere 
nitrates, such as nitrate of soda, show immediate 
and wonderful results on unexhausted land, when all 
the plant wants is a start; but it is like drawing a 
cheque upon a bank, a capital way of supplying the 
needful as long as the bank is replenished accordingly, 
but otherwise not a mode of raising money likely to be 
successful for long; so the nitrate makes the mineral 
stores (such as potash and phosphates) available if they 
be there, but cannot replace them. To continue using 
nitrates alone would be like the Irishman who, having 
a note from his bank that he had overdrawn his account 
and that they required a remittance, sent them a cheque 
upon themselves for the amount to make things square. 

Plenty of nitrogenous matters may be found in 
the best of the solid and liquid natural manures recom- 
mended, but these have to be changed into nitrates 
by the action of the earth bacteria before they can 
be assimilated by the Rose, so that the stimulus is 
most immediate when applied in the form of nitrates. 
Another important point about the nitrates is that they 
are the very first of manurial matters to be washed out 
of the ground into the drains by heavy rainfall ; the soil 
does not retain them so well as the other constituents 
of manure, and of course they go soonest in a porous or 
light soil. This points to the use of some nitrate, or 
good natural liquid manure which would very soon 
afford nitrates, in the growing season after long and 



V 



MANURES 



81 



heavy rains, when the soil is known to be well stored in 
other respects. Nevertheless, it should be stated that 
there is some little nitrogen in the rain itself, though 
not in ordinary water. 

Certain items which are mostly present in very small 
quantities, soda, silica, and chlorine, are generally disre- 
garded, as they would be present in sufficient quantities 
in almost all soils. Silica means flinty particles. It 
may seem strange to think of these as soluble, yet there 
is much silica in corn, straw, canes, and tall grass stems, 
affording the smooth surface, and the brittle sharp 
nature ; and as Tea Roses are found to succeed in those 
soils which are gritty, it would be interesting to know 
if their ashes would show a larger proportion of silica, 
or whether it is only the extra drainage and consequent 
heat of the soil that proves favourable to them. 

The very different proportions of the elements found 
in the roots, stems, leaves, and flowers of the Rose must, 
I think, be very interesting and instructive to enthusi- 
astic cultivators. Thus nearly one half of the flowers 
is potash, and a quantity approaching one-third is 
phosphorus, and as what Ave aim at is flowers, we must 
take due notice of this, or perhaps we shall have, as we 
sometimes do, especially where there are taproots going 
down too deep, strong roots, stems and leaves without 
buds. But, on the other hand, due regard must be had 
to the right amount of vigour and strength in all parts 
of the plant, for Ave do not want it to be breaking imme- 
diately into little weak flowers all over, even if Ave could 
manage it. Lime will be noticed as predominant in the 
roots, more than half in the Avood, and strong in the 
leaves, but quite low in the flowers : phosphoric acid, 
though weak in stem and leaves, present to a consider- 
able amount in roots and blooms : and potash, low in 



82 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



the roots, rising gradually through stem and leaves to 
its maximum in the flowers. This looks as if, in the 
growing season, the potash is drawn by the buds from 
the leaves, the wood, the roots, and the soil. For the 
plant lives for the Rose, as the mother for her unborn 
babe : no sooner does the bud exist in its most embryo 
form on the shoot than the stem and the leaves give all 
their powers to it, and send fresh calls to the roots for 
supplies for them to pass on. This seems to point to 
nitrate of potash as a useful extra dressing about the end 
of May, if the soil has been much washed by heavy rains. 

Iron is present in but small quantities, highest in the 
stem and lowest in the flowers. Sulphate of iron is said 
to give a better colour to the foliage, and in some sorts, 
such as Anna Olivier, to the bloom as well, but I 
do not place much reliance on it. In fact I have some- 
times omitted the iron from the formula below, for the 
small quantities cause a good deal of trouble to the 
makers, but it should be remembered that every one of 
the constituents is necessary, or the others are by so 
much rendered valueless ; so perhaps it had better be 
included though most soils and natural manures have 
it in sufficient quantity. 

The following is the mixture recommended by Mr. 
Tonks for the Rose, as deduced from the ash analysis : I 
have had it made up for me for years, and believe it to 
be excellent, not only in theory, but also in practice 
and fact : — 

Superphosphate of lime, 12 parts. 
Nitrate of potash, 10 parts. 

Sulphate of magnesia, 2 parts. 
Sulphate of iron, 1 part. 

Sulphate of lime, 8 part s. 

33 parts. 



V 



MANURES 



83 



The manure is to be applied in early spring : imme- 
diately after pruning would generally be soon enough 
perhaps, but February would be better. It is to be 
evenly scattered on the previously hoed surface, at the 
rate of \ lb. to the square yard, so that the Rose grower 
can soon calculate how much he wants. In some cases 
it might be difficult to procure it in small quantities, 
unless some manufacturer could be found to make it on 
speculation for such sale. If not, small Rosarians, Avho 
have difficulties with natural liquid manure, should com- 
bine to order it. A thoroughly trustworthy firm should 
be applied to, as the adage " see that you get it " applies 
very strongly to chemical manures. 

A 48 flower-pot full of manure may be taken 
as 1 lb., which would suffice for a square marked 
out by a six foot rod ; but, with observation and care, 
the " rule of thumb " will soon come in and measurement 
become unnecessary. It should be kept in a dry place 
and used fresh if possible ; if caked together let it 
be thoroughly crushed with the back of a dry shovel. 
I should not advise watering it in, as no artificial 
watering can equal the soaking power of gentle rain. 
A second and lighter dressing, carefully avoiding the 
foliage, may sometimes be given at the end of May, if 
heavy rains have occurred, or nitrate of potash, the most 
expensive item, may be used for that purpose, as men- 
tioned above. 



G 2 



CHAPTER VI 



PRUNING 



Somebody came once to " see my Roses " about the 
middle of a backward April, and I told him they were 
not to be seen. But he said he had "come some 
distance : of course there was no bloom or even growth, 
but might he see the plants ? " When I said there were 
no plants to be seen, he was incredulous and dissatisfied 
till I took him out to the long lines of Rosebeds. As 
we approached there was nothing to be seen but clean 
cultivated beds of soil : and it was only on close inspec- 
tion that the rows of stumps or stools at their regular 
distances could be distinguished from the ground. 
Every year the whole of the plants in my beds, H.P.s 
and Teas alike, for the standards are elsewhere, are thus 
swept clear away nearly to the level of the ground, 
though two or three or even more inches are left of a 
few extra vigorous sorts. 

This is pruning for exhibition ; but a novice might 
perhaps not only ask why I thus destroyed nearly the 
whole of the plants I had so cherished the year before, 
but also go on to the wider question " Why is pruning 
necessary for any purpose ? Why should not our Rose- 
trees grow as fine and large as they will ? " 

The answer is to be found in the manner of the 



A 



chap, vi PRUNING 85 

natural growth of the Rose. By watching an unpruned 
Rose-tree, either wild or cultivated, it will be found that 
the first strong shoot flowers well the second season 
but gets weaker at the extremity in a year or two, and 
another strong shoot starts considerably lower down or 
even from the very base of the plant, and this soon 
absorbs the majority of the sap and will eventually 
starve the original shoot, and be itself thus starved in 
succession by another. A Rose in a natural state has 
thus every year some branches which are becoming 
weakened by the fresh young shoots growing out below 
them. This , is one of the principal reasons why pruning 
is necessary. A Rose is not a tree to grow onwards and 
upwards, but a plant, which in the natural course every 
year or two forms fresh channels for the majority of the 
sap, and thus causes the branches and twigs above the 
new shoots to diminish in vitality. It seems better, 
therefore, to speak of Rose-plants than of Rose-trees, 
especially since standards are now less used, and so 
many new varieties are dwarf in their growth. 

The objects of pruning are : — To maintain the life 
and strength equally throughout the plants, to mould 
and preserve their shape, and to give more vigour, 
colour, and substance to the flowers. Owing to the 
natural habit of growth before mentioned, a consider- 
able amount of wood must be taken away annually to 
prevent the shoots robbing each other, and when nature 
is interfered with art must go a little further to make 
and to keep a plant of well-balanced shape. And also, 
even for ordinary garden purposes, a considerable 
amount of strength and sap must be reserved for 
each bloom, or, in the case of the dark H.P.s for 
instance, they will not show their true colours at all. 

The principal art of pruning — that of forming and 



86 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



maintaining a shapely plant of well-placed shoots — has 
almost died out in modern out-of-door Rose culture. 
This is owing to the neglect now shown to the Hybrid 
Chinas and Hybrid Bourbons, really strong-growing 
varieties but only blooming once : to the waning popu- 
larity of standards where a well-balanced head is more 
noticeable and necessary than in a dwarf or bush plant : 
and to the fact that most enthusiastic Rosarians are 
also exhibitors, and therefore care more for perfect 
blooms than for well-shaped plants. When I first 
learnt to prune, a long time ago, H.P.s were quite new 
and very few in number, and there were still many 
large standards of summer Roses, each of which was a 
study in itself for the primer's art. 

First, as to the instruments required. A primer of 
the old school would condemn the use of scissors, be 
horrified to see a shoot cut off square, and would consider 
the neat smooth sloping cut of a sharp knife to be the 
only legitimate appearance. He would also perhaps 
scorn the use of gloves and think he could do his work 
better without them ; but this must be a matter of 
taste, for it is useless to deny that Roses have thorns, 
which are especially hard and sharp at pruning-time. 
It is well to remember that in using a knife, especially 
to budded Roses of one year's growth, the plant must be 
firmly held with the other hand, or a serious breakage is 
very apt to occur. 

Two good knives, an oilstone, a strong pair of pruning- 
scissors, and a mat to kneel on by the dwarf plants, will 
probably prove a sufficient equipment. One of the 
knives should have a strong blade, the other a narrower 
and smaller one. The hone should be carried about and 
not left behind, or the tearing off of a valuable branch 
will soon be the result of a blunted blade. The scissors 



VI 



PRUNING 



87 



will be useful for very small shoots, and for bits of dead 
wood or anything in an awkward position, but in all 
such cases the cuts should afterwards be trimmed and 
smoothed as much as possible with a knife. A small 
pruning-saw is most effectual for thick pieces of dead 
wood, but in many instances cannot be used. Profes- 
sionals will not only prune but will even bud their dwarf 
plants by simply stooping over them, but I confess it 
makes my back ache even to see them at it. For 
kneeling on the wet soil I have found a piece of water- 
proof about eighteen inches square more satisfactory and 
less tiring than knee-caps, but it should be borne in 
mind that the weight of the body will bring moisture 
through any alleged waterproof that has not an actual 
skin of indiarubber. 

Next as to the time of year. Some recommend a 
certain amount of thinning in early autumn, to ensure 
the ripening of the remaining shoots. If the plants are 
to be but lightly pruned in the spring, this may be 
desirable treatment ; but there is a danger of causing 
low dormant buds wanted for next year to push at once, 
the root power is probably slightly checked, and the 
benefit gained is very slight, if the plants are to be 
severely pruned. 

We may commence with Roses trained on sunny walls 
about the middle of February, and in this case, whether 
nailed or tied to wires, the operation will be very similar 
to the pruning and laying in of a peach-tree. Begin 
by taking out all dead and weakly wood ; then consider 
which shoots are required for laying in, giving preference 
to the ripest rather than the fattest, and steadfastly re- 
sisting the temptation to train them too close together ; 
of the remainder for which there is no room on the 
wall, the gross shoots should be clean cut out and 



88 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



the medium-sized ones thinned if necessary and moder- 
ately spurred back. 

A rule for all climbing Roses, but especially for 
Marechal Niel, the Noisettes, and the Dijon race, is 
that long strong shoots of the year should not be cut 
back much, but either laid in at least three parts of their 
length or removed altogether. Unless additional height 
is wanted, such shoots should not be trained upright, as 
that is likely to lead to more wood and less bloom. The 
Banksian Roses need special treatment, for the flowers 
will not proceed from the strong shoots of the year, but 
from the laterals or side growths. There must accord- 
ingly not be too much pruning, but merely a thinning 
out of dead wood and a slight shortening of long strong 
shoots ; the weakly-looking twigs alone will blossom. 
Tea Roses, not of the climbing races, which are grown on 
low walls may be pruned more severely if quality rather 
than quantity of bloom be desired. 

March is the month for pruning all Roses in the open 
but Teas and Noisettes ; and I think an amateur will not 
be doing wrong if he picks his days and gets through as 
much as he can whenever it is warm and fine. If some 
are pruned in the first week of the month and some in 
the last, bitter weather intervening, but little difference 
will be found in the time of flowering. It is best 
to leave Tea Roses in the open undisturbed in their 
winter's covering till April. A reckless pruner in the 
shape of Jack Frost has generally been before us, and 
often we are grateful enough if he has left us any life to 
cut back to. On the other hand, in early seasons like 
1893, Roses which have made some growth at the top are 
apt to " bleed " when pruned severely, especially where 
old wood is cut into. In some cases the soil around the 
roots is kept quite damp from this cause for some days 



VI 



PRUNING 



89 



and the matter looks serious but does not often prove to 
be so : the cut heals in about a week, and the subsequent 
growth does not seem to be impaired. 

As to the method, we will take first, as being the most 
complicated, the case of summer Roses, H.P.s, and other 
fairly strong varieties where the object is to form hand- 
some plants for general decoration with a quantity of 
good blooms for cutting. 

The first care will be to cut out all the dead wood, 
and all wood however thick and old which, as shown by 
the small growth made last season, is becoming weakly 
in comparison with the rest of the plant. Now we can 
study the whole and. see what we have got left. Our 
object is to form a well-shaped head or plant, and by 
" well-shaped " I mean that the plant itself should be 
of the even globular form of a Rose. Rose petals are 
evenly arranged, and do not cross each other in an 
inward direction ; such should be the shape of the plant. 
Bearing in mind that the top bud left of each shoot 
will grow first and in the direction in which it points, 
we should always cut back to a bud that looks outward, 
and take care that the centre will not be overcrowded. 
To get rid of a misplaced shoot it should be clean 
removed at the very bottom ; merely cutting it hard 
back will only make it grow the more. It must be our 
endeavour each year to do away with as much old wood 
as possible, and in the case of strong growers to lessen 
the number of their shoots rather than their length. 
We should picture to ourselves what the plant will look 
like in full growth, and remember that a lover of Roses 
is more likely to leave too many than too few shoots. 
There is a saying in East Anglia " no man should hoe 
his own turnips." meaning that he is not likely to thin 
them sufficiently, but those who are used to thinning 



90 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



grapes and other garden produce will probably have got 
over this difficulty. 

The next question is, how far, i.e. to how many buds, 
are the shoots to be cut back ; and the answer is to be 
found in the golden rule of pruning, that more buds are 
to be left on each shoot in proportion as the plant, both 
as a variety and an individual, is strong, and less in pro- 
portion as it is weak. To a novice in Rose- growing it 
appears strange at first that we should cut away almost 
all there is left of a weakly-growing and precious variety, 
which would seem to be almost exterminated by such 
severity, and yet leave longer shoots on a strong sort 
which seems better able to stand the rough treatment ; 
but the rule is nevertheless in strict accordance with the 
law of nature — Darwin's survival of the fittest — and 
the law of God " Whosoever hath, to him shall be given." 
I have elsewhere (p. 73) endeavoured to show that the 
same rule applies in Rose-growing to the application of 
liquid manure to strong and weakly plants, and to the 
number of each variety which should be grown by those 
who are not exhibitors. 

A wise editor used to give as his advice to young 
authors in whom he had confidence, Don't argue — 
lay down the law " ; and the counsel of a judge to 
judges of all sorts to give their sentences without their 
reasons is well known as pointing out the most useful 
and prudent course to pursue. But the reason for the 
above rule in pruning seems so clear that I think it 
should be added. In proportion as a plant is strong in 
growth, from the natural habit of the variety or in a less 
degree from the condition of the individual, leave more 
buds, to perhaps six as a maximum, on each shoot : 
because the strong grower has the capability of supplying 
several buds on each shoot with a sufficiency of sap for 



VI 



PRUNING 



91 



good blooms, and if a due number be not allowed, the 
shoots will either run to wood without flower or produce 
coarse and ill-shaped blooms. And in proportion as a 
variety or plant is weakly in growth, fewer buds should 
be left ; because the weak grower has only sufficient 
strength to supply sap to one or two buds on each shoot, 
and if more are left the power will not be sufficiently 
concentrated to form good blooms. The general habit 
of the variety should therefore be well borne in mind in 
determining how many buds to leave on each shoot ; 
remembering always, with a view to the future outline 
of the plant, to prune to an outlooking bud, and that as 
a general rule the more a shoot is cut back, the longer 
will be the growth from the bud left at the top. 

After a warm summer most of the young wood on a 
well-pruned and healthy plant will be found moderately 
ripe ; but we occasionally find an extra well-ripened 
shoot, almost as firm and brown as the old wood, 
with large plump buds ready to start at the first 
chance. This is very valuable and plenty of space 
should be allowed for its development, less ripe shoots 
being removed to make way for it. On the other hand, 
we often find gross late unripened shoots, much thicker 
but greener, with a larger proportion of pith. These are 
comparatively useless, and should generally be cleanly 
removed. If a shoot has been injured by frost, and on 
cutting down to an apparently sound bud the pith 
appears brown instead of white, it is evident that the 
injury has gone farther than we supposed, and it will be 
better if possible to cut a little lower. If any shoot by 
its unusual size evidently absorbs a large proportion of 
the whole of the sap, it should be, according to its ripe- 
ness and the condition of the rest of the plant, either 
removed altogether, or left a good length and have 



92 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



other weaker shoots removed that might hinder its 
development. 

If a plant is carefully pruned from the beginning it 
seldom presents many difficulties as long as it continues 
in health ; but those which have been neglected for 
only one year sometimes require to be cut back suffi- 
ciently to form an entirely new framework during the 
following season. A good deal may be done to remedy 
faults and defects by a careful examination of each 
plant in early May, when a thinning of the pushing 
buds may be practised where it is necessary. Of those 
growing too close together or in a wrong direction 
or filling up the centre, one or two may be rubbed off. 
But we must not be rash : if undecided, it may be 
prudent to adjourn the examination for a week or so, 
when we can still take the shoot off, but cannot put it 
back. It is best, when an actual shoot of an inch or 
more has to be removed, not to rub it out, as this leaves 
a deep ugly scar, but to shave nV closely off with a 
knife. 

For bedding purposes the pegging-down system is 
fairly successful with really strong-growing varieties of 
not too stiff habit. But it must be understood that it 
will not be satisfactory, unless the soil and culture be 
of the best, and the most free varieties in growth and 
bloom be selected. All must be cut away save two or 
three (not too many) of the strongest shoots, which are 
bent down and pegged over the bed. They will break 
and bloom all over, and in late summer other shoots 
will probably spring from the base, a selection of which 
will take the places of the old ones in the following 
spring. 

Extra tall standards trained to form weeping Roses 
are beautiful objects when in bloom. It is impossible, 



VI 



PRUNING 



93 



however, to make any varieties, which are not naturally 
of flexible or pendulous growth, take this form success- 
fully by bending them down. The summer climbing 
Roses, such as the Ayrshire and evergreen classes, 
should therefore be used for this purpose. The heads 
should be vigorously pruned back the first year, or even 
the second if the growth is not satisfactory, and when 
the shoots reach the ground they should be thinned if 
too many and tied to some supports the proper distance 
apart. The pruning will afterwards consist of spurring 
back the blossoming laterals, or occasionally taking 
clean out a weakly branch and allowing another to fall 
down in its place. 

Pruning for exhibition purposes is often quite a 
different matter to pruning for decoration or display. 
The object in this case is to get the finest possible 
blooms, and to attain this end the exhibitor will not 
care very much about the shape of his plants. If 
number be required, then the plants must be multiplied, 
as but few show flowers can be expected from each- 
Pruning in this case loses most of its art ; only the 
strongest shoots will be retained, and these will be cut 
back very closely to two or three buds, while with weak 
growers in some cases not more than one bud of new 
wood will be retained. 

The further revision of the pushing buds and young 
shoots, at the end of April or early in May, will in this 
case be an important matter, requiring much care and 
foresight. A good knowledge of the habit of growth 
and of the "manners and customs" of the different 
varieties will be necessary to know how many shoots 
should be retained, and an extra strong one however ill 
placed will be pardoned among the weaker varieties. 
If injured by frost or grubs it must be decided as early 



04 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE chap. 



as possible whether the damage is serious enough to 
warrant the removal of the whole shoot. In some cases 
the severe pruning will cause buds to push at once 
from the old wood ; and among the weaker varieties, 
whose blooms are best on maiden plants, such buds 
should be encouraged ; but in the case of the stronger 
growers, the blooms will probably be best from last 
year's wood. Some sorts have particularly robust and 
ample foliage ; in this case the shoots should be left 
longer in the pruning, and the top buds, or those that are 
as far apart as possible, alone retained. Thus Madame 
Gabriel Luizet is strong enough to support from four to 
six, or even perhaps more, first-class blooms upon each 
plant ; but as the foliage is large and full, the shoots 
should be left at the pruning four or five inches long, 
and the top outlooking bud alone retained on each, all 
others being removed as fast as they appear. Varieties 
apt to come coarse and too full should also be left a 
little longer in the pruning, and have more shoots 
retained ; but the coarseness can generally be remedied 
by care and discretion in gradually thinning the flower- 
buds. 

For ordinary and decorative purposes, Tea Roses in 
the open, if well fed and spared by the frost, might be 
pruned but little : still they should not be allowed to 
become leggy and scraggy, and a fair amount of 
pruning on the same lines as recommended for the 
H.P.s will tend to keep the plants in health and 
vigour. But in many parts of the country, particularly 
in low-lying districts, we often find, on removing 
the protecting material in April, that a consider- 
able part of the plant has been killed during the 
winter ; and are only thankful, as I have said, if we can 
find some real life to cut back to. For exhibition 



VI 



PRUNING 



95 



purposes the pure Teas should be in all cases pruned 
back as hard as the H.P.s ; there is no fear of these 
free-flowering and most charming Roses failing to 
bloom. 

Where Gloire de Dijon or any of its race, Marechal 
Niel or any of the strong-growing Noisettes are culti- 
vated in the open, they should be treated as mentioned 
above on the pruning of wall Roses. These varieties if 
in good health make long strong flowerless shoots late 
in the summer, which should be retained nearly to their 
full length as they will give the finest blooms. These 
shoots should be trained, while still soft, in as near an 
approach to a horizontal position as is practicable with- 
out bending them too much, and will last about two 
years, when they will probably become weak and should 
be clean removed to make way for others. 

This habit of making strong flowerless growths late 
in the summer makes the following special treatment 
advisable for the training and pruning of Marechal Niel 
under glass. 

In a house fitted with wires up the roof as for vines 
let a strong maiden standard be planted, with plenty of 
room for extension on either side. The roots may be 
inside or out, but in either case ample provision must 
be made for the supply of abundance of rich food. The 
Rose should be completely cut back at the time of 
planting to within an inch or two of the stock. When 
it begins to grow, two shoots only should be selected, 
all others being rubbed off, and these should be trained 
horizontally right and left immediately under the 
bottoms of the wires. If still growing when they reach 
the end of the house or as far as it is intended to cover, 
train each up the end wires, and should they reach the 
top twist them about anywhere where room can be 



96 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



found but do not break or stop them. No pruning 
whatever will be necessary during the following winter, 
but the plant must always be highly fed. The Rose 
will probably bloom freely along the rods in the next 
spring, and as soon as the blooms are over, the upright 
rods (if any) must be cut quite back to the horizontal 
part from which all shoots must be clean removed. 

We have now left, probably about April, a plant, 
shaped like a T, a stem with two simple horizontal arms, 
and this will be the whole of the permanent part of the 
Rose. The horizontal arms will soon begin to break in 
several places, and shoots must be trained under the 
wires about fourteen inches apart, all other buds and new 
shoots being rubbed off. The chosen shoots may appear 
weak at first, but they will gain in strength, and the 
autumn growth, if the plant be well nourished, will be 
very rapid. Probably all the shoots will not reach the 
top of the house this year, but they should be allowed 
to grow as far as they will, and to ramble anywhere 
where there is room when they have reached the top, 
till growth ceases for the winter. As soon as the buds 
seem inclined to break in the spring, the time being of 
course dependent on the amount of heat supplied, all the 
ties should be unfastened and the long trailing shoots most 
carefully let down for a few days to give the lower buds 
an equal chance of breaking with the upper ones. They 
should then be retied in their former positions, and the 
ends reaching further than the top of the house, for 
which no room can be found, may be cut off. 

Almost every bud should now produce a flower — a 
splendid sight which may last a month. The blooms 
will be greatly superior to those grown out of doors in 
general perfection of shape, but the petals will be 
thinner in many cases, and the flowers less lasting. 



Marechal Niel, under Glass. To face p. 96. 

The upper plate represents the plant in full bloom, with about 300 fine roses on 
it, April 4th, 1894. 

The lower one shows the same plant on April 27th in the same year, the whole of 
the upright rods, with the exception of two or three small portions, still bearing 
imexpanued buds, having been cut back to the horizontal permanent arms. 



PRUNING 



97 



They should be cut before they are expanded, for, alone 
of Roses, Marechal Mel improves in colour after being 
placed in water. Great care should be taken in the 
spring growing season to avoid cold draughts, as the 
foliage is very tender and susceptible of mildew. As 
the blooms are cut or wither, the upright rods should 
be gradually shortened till the whole is clean removed 
back to the main horizontal arms at the bottom of the 
house. The check to the plant will be lessened by the 
gradual removal of the shoots, and fresh growth will 
soon start to be trained up during the summer and 
autumn in their place as before. 

This is a simple, systematic, and regular method, 
which I have found to answer extremely well. It may 
be objected that all autumnal bloom is lost by it, but 
we ought not to want Roses under glass when there 
are plenty out of doors. I know of no system which 
will so well provide for the utilisation of the strong 
autumnal growth ; and the blooms from these strong 
shoots are far superior to any that can be gathered from 
older wood or weak laterals. 

As the cultivation of Marechal Niel under glass by 
this method should result in the production of a large 
number of fine Roses all at once, and there will probably 
be a desire to send some away to friends by post or rail, 
this seems a good place to say something as to the 
packing and carriage of Rose blooms in general. For 
sending large quantities by rail the method that 
professionals have learnt by experience had better be 
followed : in a shallow box the Roses, gathered quite dry, 
should be laid flat in rows as closely together as possible, 
and all the same way : the ends of the shoots are 
wrapped in a mass of strips of some slightly absorbent 
paper well wetted, — a much cleaner material than 

H 



100 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. VI 



relieved the better hy far will be the bud that is left 
and the earlier and finer will be the autumnal bloom. 

In growing for exhibition this operation of dis- 
budding is most important (see Chap. XI.) and must be 
strictly practised on the Teas as well. But for general 
purposes many of the Teas are greatly improved in 
beauty if a bud or two be left with the Rose, only 
those immediately surrounding the central bud being 
removed. 



CHAPTER VII 



STOCKS 

Roses are not generally grown on their own roots, but 
" worked," that is, budded or grafted, upon other more 
free-growing sorts. This is done, firstly, to save time : 
a plant in its full strength, capable of giving the finest 
flowers, can be obtained much quicker by budding the 
Rose on the wild stock, as it thereby gets at once the 
full benefit of the strong roots of the briar, and often 
yields the best blooms the first year after budding. In 
the propagation of new Roses, where it is required to 
raise as large a number of plants as possible for the 
following season, nurserymen are often able, by com- 
mencing in the winter under glass, to raise three genera- 
tions in one year. 

And, secondly, Roses are not grown on their own roots, 
simply because the very large majority of them do not 
either grow or flower so well when thus treated, as when 
worked on suitable, stocks. I have four plants of 
Marechal Niel in a row against a wooden fence, where 
they have been about six years. Two of these I raised 
from cuttings, and they are therefore on their own roots, 
and two I budded on briar-cutting stocks. Either of the 
budded plants is bigger than the two on their own roots 
put together, and affords three times as many flowers. 



102 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



The principal stock used is the common Dog-Rose or 
briar (Rosa canina) of our fields and lanes, and probably 
three-fourths of the Roses cultivated in this country are 
now grown upon this stock. It is used in three forms : 
first, as a standard, which is the actual wild plant 
dug up from the hedges, with the Rose budded on the 
lateral branches proceeding from the stem. Secondly, 
the briar cutting, which is a shoot of the briar struck 
as a cutting, and budded, after it is well rooted, as low 
down on the stem as possible. Thirdly, the briar 
seedling, which is the growth from the seed of the wild 
Rose, and has the bud inserted on the actual main root 
or underground stem. 

Next in popularity comes the manetti stock. This is 
a form of wild Rose, introduced from Italy, some sixty 
years ago, by the late Mr. Rivers of Sawbridgeworth : 
it is only used in the form of plants struck from cuttings 
to make dwarf Roses. Other sorts of Roses which root 
strongly as cuttings have been used as stocks, such as 
the De la Grifferae, used by some for the Gloire de Dijon 
race and strong climbing forms of Teas and Noisettes, 
and the Polyantha, which may still be said to be under 
trial ; but at present the stocks that " hold the field " 
are the three different forms of the briar and the manetti 
cutting. 

A large proportion of amateur Rose-growers will, from 
various causes, be unable or unwilling to propagate their 
own plants, and so will have to rely upon those they 
purchase from nurserymen. Even in this case it is 
desirable that they should know something about the 
different forms of stocks, so that they may order those 
most suitable for the several varieties and the purposes 
for which they are designed. Except that we cannot 
now, fortunately, purchase Teas upon the manetti stock, 



VII 



STOCKS 



103 



as the union is universally acknowledged to be a failure, 
the principal varieties of Roses may now be obtained of 
those nurserymen who make them a specialty upon the 
four recognized stocks — standards, briar cuttings, briar 
seedlings, and manetti. Which shall we choose ? 

The advantages and disadvantages of the standard 
stock may be summed up as follows. It does very well 
for the old-fashioned summer Roses of the Hybrid China 
and Bourbon races, where a fine head and a grand mass 
of bloom just in the season is desired, but is not suitable 
for the Mosses, Austrians, and the majority of the 
other kinds that bloom but once. It is also a good 
stock for most of the H.P.s, forming large heads with 
the strong-growing sorts, and perhaps producing more 
refined flowers from those which are inclined to be 
coarse. For a time, the weaker-growing varieties also 
do well on this form of stock, perhaps even better than 
as dwarfs, but only the very hardiest and most vigorous 
are as lasting on the standard as are properly planted 
specimens on the cutting and seedling briar. 

A majority of all sorts of Teas, Hybrid Teas and 
Noisettes give better and finer flowers on standard than 
on dwarf stocks. The natural idea would be to have the 
stronger forms of Teas, such as Marie van Houtte and 
Anna Olivier, as standards, and those of weaker growth, 
such as Comtesse de Nadaillac and Cleopatra, as dwarfs. 
As regards the outward appearance of the plants, when 
first put in, this would be correct : but experience shows 
that some of the more vigorous Teas do as well on dwarfs 
as on standard stocks, and that the weaker ones, though 
they do not seem suited for the position, and look very 
poor upon standard stems, yet give the best flowers 
when grown in that form. It has been observed, indeed, 
that the weak growers, both among H.P.s and Teas, are 



104 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



a little stronger as plants when grown as standards, 
though it is hardly apparent without actual comparison 
with dwarf forms of the same varieties. In deciding as 
to standards the purchaser should therefore consider 
whether he cares more for quality in the blooms them- 
selves, or the general appearance and uniformity of his 
beds. 

He should also take notice that there are several 
disadvantages belonging to the standard stock. One 
of the greatest of these is that every plant must be 
staked, and with a large number this becomes a serious 
item, as a gale of wind is sure to break some of the ties 
and the stakes themselves if the} T be wooden ones. 
Standards are also more expensive, and there is often 
far less choice of t really good plants. A great deal of 
care in graduating the height of the stems is also 
necessary to make the Rose-bed " look nice," while a 
good general appearance is much more easily arranged 
with a bed of dwarfs. 

I advise then that the standard form be not chosen 
for the H.P.s, for as a general rule quite as good blooms 
and a better general appearance, with less cost and 
trouble, can be obtained from dwarfs. La France, Lady 
Mary Fitzwilliam and most of the H.T.s must be taken 
as exceptions. Let the Tea Roses also be grown as 
dwarfs, if a bed of beautiful Roses be desired rather 
than extra fine blooms, or if the locality be liable to 
severe frost ; but for exhibition purposes, or where the 
quality of the flowers is the principal object, they should 
be grown as standards, if it be found practicable to keep 
them alive during the winter. 

The next question, and it has long been a keenly 
debated one among Rosarians, is, which of the three 
dwarf stocks, briar cutting, briar seedling, or manetti 



VII 



STOCKS 



105 



cutting, is the best for purchased plants. The voice of 
the majority in the Rose world, with which I thoroughly 
agree, places the value of these stocks for permanent 
plants in the order named above. The advantages of 
the briar cutting are that it makes the finest permanent 
plants, that, taken all round, it gives the best blooms, 
and that its tendency to comparatively shallow roots 
makes it the most amenable to good cultivation. Its only 
disadvantages are that it is not quite so early in bloom- 
ing as plants on the manetti stock, and that its want 
of deep roots prevents its being able to stand neglect 
so well as those on the briar seedling. This is however 
a poor advantage to claim for the briar seedling, as the 
growth from the deep roots will not be satisfactory or 
free-flowering. Even if the tap-roots are taken off, the 
plants are generally somewhat inferior to those on the 
cutting, and are the latest in blooming of all. Mr. 
Prince's magnificent culture of Tea Roses on this stock 
caused it to be very generally tried and used for this 
purpose, but I have not found any advantage from its 
adoption. 

The manetti stock is not suitable for purchased plants. 
Its disadvantages are that unless the union of stock and 
scion is planted at least an inch below the surface of 
the soil, the Rose will simply die : — that as a general 
rule it dwindles and gets weaker every year, though 
there are exceptions to be found where the Rose itself 
has thrown out roots to aid the stocks : — and that the 
suckers, which it is sure to throw up as the plant gets 
weaker, are so like the growth of the Rose, that it re- 
quires a trained eye to detect the difference. The 
manetti has its uses, in the propagation of new Roses and 
in the growth of " maiden " plants of most of the H.P.s 
for exhibition blooms, but it should not be employed 



106 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



for permanent plants. Some years ago it was difficult 
to get dwarf plants upon any other stock but this, which 
was said to be generally more suitable to the lighter 
soils ; but, with the increased use of the cultivated briar 
for dwarf stocks, this idea has died out, and dwarf H.P.s 
upon either of the three stocks can generally now be 
obtained of the leading professional Rose-growers. 

There are still I believe a few amateurs who grow 
Roses in quantity, and show them well, yet never bud or 
propagate them themselves. I cannot understand this, 
for I find a large part of the delight of the pursuit in 
the raising of my own Roses, and I have but a few among 
all my plants which were not budded with my own 
hands. There is much fascination in the whole opera- 
tion of budding : — you have before you rows of strong 
wild plants, rough and untidy as the worst of hedges, 
and in one short year you transform these into splendid 
Rose-plants of all varieties with noble foliage and 
glorious flowers of many shades, certainly as good 
and probably better than any that can be got from 
bought plants. A due mingling of hopes and fears 
is essential to true enjoyment, and there is plenty 
of both in Rose-budding, from the planting of the 
stock to the cutting of the maiden bloom. But when 
all dangers are passed and over, is not that glorious flower 
more truly and verily your own ? You may see your 
Rose marked for the Silver Medal at the Crystal Palace, 
as the best in its section. Yes ! it is your Rose, even if it 
was your gardener who ordered, planted, pruned, fed and 
cultivated the plant, and cut and showed the bloom. 
But if it was you alone who had found, chosen, and 
grubbed out the stock from the hedge, or cut, prepared, 
planted, and transplanted the briar or manetti cutting 
— if no hand but yours had budded it, cared for it in all 



VII 



STOCKS 



107 



stages, and finally cut and shown the Rose, then, when 
perchance it is declared on all hands to be the finest 
specimen of the variety ever shown, it must be an 
additional pleasure to know that it is your Rose indeed, 
for that, as far as all human aid is concerned, you made 
it yourself ! 

Or again, you go to see a brother enthusiast, and to 
admire and take stock of his collection. You see one 
or more, perhaps several, Roses which are new to you 
and you would much like to possess. If you are not a 
" Buddhist,'"' you can only take down the names, and 
order a jDlant or two of each from your nurseryman to be 
sent you in November. It may be that you do not mind 
the cost, but plant as carefully as you may, with all 
possible good fortune, you will be lucky if you get any 
first -class blooms the next year from these newly-moved 
plants. But if you have plenty of good healthy stocks 
at home ready to be budded, how much more speedy 
and effectual and less costly the whole matter is. Your 
friend immediately cuts you off' a shoot or two of the 
required sorts with good buds on each, or promise- to 
send you them by post if there are none now ready. If 
the leaves are at once snipped off. all but the last inch 
of the footstalk of each, they maybe safely earned home, 
or they will travel by one day's post, even without any 
wet moss as protection, though of course they should not 
be left in the sun for any length of time. Do not be afraid 
your friend will refuse you, unless his plant is very 
small, weakly and precious : not only from the universal 
good fellowship of the craft, but also because he naturally 
expects that you will do the same for him, and that the 
benefit will thus be mutual. You put in these buds 
which have cost you nothing but an exchange which 
you can very well spare, and the very next summer you 



108 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



have the shoots and flowers in their fullest vigour, with 
the additional charm of watching a variety which is new 
to you spring into leaf and bud and bloom from the tiny 
bud which you brought home in your pocket. 

What a pleasure, too, to help a beginner, or one who 
has lost his plants, by sending a large parcel of buds 
in early August when they are plentiful and you can 
spare a good quantity of them. But still, the choosing 
and cutting, preparation and packing of them takes 
some time, and I should advise the making of a rule 
that whoever asks for buds by post should send labels 
with the names required, as this will save some trouble 
at least. From budding Roses, the amateur will very 
likely be led on to budding his own Apples on Paradise, 
and his own Plums and other fruit-trees, and his 
interest in all these features of the garden will be 
much increased when his own hands have thus 
propagated his fruits and his flowers. 

I would strongly advise the enthusiastic amateur, if 
he lives quite in the country and has plenty of room, 
to get and raise his own stocks. Not only because it 
will greatly add to the interest of the matter and save 
expense, but also because the stocks themselves, es- 
pecially standards, will be stronger and better. A 
sufficient number can be raised every year by one man 
to keep up a collection of Roses large enough to enable 
him to show in the highest amateur classes. As 
standards undoubtedly produce as a rule the finest Tea 
Roses, and there are probably few amateurs who 
personally get their own from the hedges, I will 
endeavour to describe my mode of procedure. 

First, as to outfit : — I never had any special suit, 
but an old one each year is condemned to the work, 
and verily it is never likely to be used for anything' 



VII 



STOCKS 



109 



else afterwards. In a short time it is more fitted for 
a scarecrow than a parson, but my craze is known, and 
I keep to the fields. An old hat capable of protecting 
the ears is necessary, for you must get your head into 
the very thick of it ; and strong boots and gaiters will 
of course be required. One other article of dress is 
wanted : even if not used for pruning, strong thick 
gloves are necessary for stock-getting, for there are no 
thorns in England like the curved scimitars of Rosa 
canina. Summer thorns may be disregarded, for whilst 
they are green they are fairly pliable and soft : in 
winter they are as hard and sharp as steel, and as brittle 
as glass. Get the white stiff hedger's gloves at the 
village shop, made I believe of horse-skin : they are 
very hard and uncomfortable at first, but become more 
supple by use. 

For instruments, first and most useful is the 
" Grecian " pruning draw-saw, which might perhaps 
be kept in a sheath attached to a waist-belt, though I 
have always simply carried it. Next in importance is 
a small stock axe : I have quite a miniature one which 
was made on purpose for me and can be used with one 
hand : all digging can be done with this, and there is 
no use for a spade. A pruning-knife and strong 
secateurs or pruning-shears in the pocket complete the 
equipment. It is here, I suspect, in his instruments, 
that the amateur has such an advantage over the 
professional stock-getter. It is impossible to do justice 
to this, the very first step in successful Rose cultivation, 
with a spade, a bill-hook, and a full-sized stock axe. 
It is very difficult to strike accurately with the last- 
named tool in a thick place, and many is the fine stock 
that is grievously injured by a hasty stroke turned 
aside by a twig, and I am sorry to say sometimes 



110 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



mended afterwards with putty. I use my tiny stock 
axe almost exclusively for digging round the roots, and 
all of any size are then severed neatly and cleanly in 
the ground with the Grecian saw. The secateurs will 
clear the way a bit, and lop off the head, and the 
pruning-knife will cut off and shorten all bruised roots, 
and make the edges smooth where the saw has done its 
work. The result will be far better stocks than 
those gathered by professionals, for even Mr. William 
Paul recommends trimming the roots of standard 
stocks before planting with a bill ! 

The greatest number of stocks, and the finest to look 
at, will be found on heavy land, but, as a rule not with- 
out exceptions, those on lighter land will have more 
numerous and fibrous roots. The stocks will be either 
rooted suckers from the main stool, or the actual plant 
itself with the stout principal root of the seedling briar. 
In either case, as little as possible should be reserved 
of the underground stem or main root, consistent with 
the preservation of some fibres ; for it is these latter, 
with many others which form in the spring, that 
will support the new growth of the plant : the thick 
main roots and underground stems will only throw up 
suckers if they live, and if they die are likely to 
harbour fungus which is hurtful to the living fibres. 

In many localities the hedgebanks are the only 
available places, where the stocks are difficult to get at, 
and naturally have roots only on one side, and often 
fantastically curled about. Briars growing in the open 
undergrowth of a wood, or in any rough half-unculti- 
vated level space, are much easier to get at, and 
probably have a more even spread of roots. When 
going along hedgerows, I lay the stocks out as I get 
them on the edge of the ditch with the roots covered 



VII 



STOCKS 



111 



with wet leaves and grass, and collect them as I come 
back. I then cut an elm sucker as a withe and make 
a little faggot, which, regardless of the sufferings of my 
poor coat, I carry home rejoicing. Those stocks which 
are taken from an old stool may probably require 
trimming at home with a more powerful saw, and some- 
times it may be better to reserve till then the work of 
the pruning-knife, in shortening bruised roots, smooth- 
ing saw cuts, shaving off suckers, and carefully cutting 
out all semblances of buds below the ground surface. 

In selecting standard stems, if there is plenty of 
choice, take only two-year-old shoots ; next three-year- 
old, avoiding one-year-old shoots unless they be 
extra well ripened, and old stems unless you are very 
hard up. I have seen a great many stocks in nursery- 
men's quarters that I should never take unless I was 
very short — old, spotted, and cankered. For it is 
instructive to notice that canker may certainly be found 
on the wild Rose, in its natural state, even where there 
seems to have been no outward injury to the stem. It 
is true that some of the grey hidebound old stocks 
will make very good growth when cut back and 
transplanted, but some will not, and you never can tell 
where they will break. A sharp frost, after they are 
moved, will be fatal to a large number of the one-year- 
old stems, which are too soft and pithy to stand the 
ordeal of transplanting. A stock without any fibrous 
roots at all on the main root will often grow, and if it 
does, do well, but it cannot be depended on and should 
only be used if quantity is required. 

There are a great many varieties of the Dog-Rose, and 
a great difference will soon be noticed in the general 
appearance of the stems. It used to be said that the 
red-barked, very thorny, variety is the best, and perhaps 



112 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP, 



this is true, but I have formed fine plants on smooth 
stems. I should not generally choose the water briar 
with its deep green bark, and running slender growth 
almost like the Ayrshire, but I have grown good Teas 
upon it. The sweet briar does not form a good stock, 
though, as I have found it growing wild only in light 
soil, I fancied at one time it ought to do well with Teas 
on gravel. 

It is not always the thickest stems that are the best ; 
those not stouter than the fore finger, if healthy and 
with good roots, will often do as well if not better for 
the Teas of moderate growth. Still, an extra stout 
stock is a prize for strong growers that should not be 
neglected ; vitality can always be diminished in many 
ways, it is the increasing it that takes almost all our care 
and trouble. I cut all my standard stems to the height of 
two feet, making them thus what are termed half- 
standards, for there does not appear to be any ad- 
vantage in having them higher, except for the 
formation of weeping roses ; even for the middle row of 
a bed, more expensive stakes must be used, the wind 
exercises more leverage upon the roots, and suckers are 
more likely to be formed. It is said, however, that in 
very close sheltered places tall standards are better, as 
exposing the Rose to less stagnant air. 

It should be understood that no laterals or branches, 
however small, should be left on the stems, and it is 
better that there never should have been any side-growth 
from the portion of two feet which is left. They should 
be planted in rows, the stocks a foot and the rows a yard 
apart, but they may be a little closer if for Teas, and 
room be precious. I plant in double rows, every other 
row being only one foot apart. Do not plant too deep : the 
" collar," that is, the place from which the stem springs 



VII 



STOCKS 



113 



(generally at an angle) from the root, should not be 
more than an inch below the surface. No stakes will 
be needed during the year of wild growth and budding, 
but it is a good plan to put a thick smear of paint over 
the pith exposed at the top of the stem. For an 
insect pest in the spring will be on the watch for any 
such exposed pith, even on large shoots pruned back on 
the Rose itself, and the grubs which proceed from its 
eggs bore down the pith, leaving a hole which holds the 
rain water and leads to decay. 

Mr. W. D. Prior, in his useful little book upon Rose- 
growing, suggests the cultivation of standard stocks 
by layering. To do this, any old useless stock or 
briar plant should be cut quite down to the ground 
and encouraged to form side suckers running through 
the soil for a little distance. A nick beneath the 
underground stem of these suckers will cause them to 
root independently, especially if a little cocoa fibre be 
added, and rooted standard stocks will be produced. 
But the time and trouble required for all this will not 
be appreciated, where wild standard stocks are avail- 
able. I have collected 1800 of these in one winter, 
but they were not selected ones or all of first-class 
quality. 

I feel, however, that very few amateur Rosarians will 
appreciate with me the charms of getting standard stocks 
from the hedges — most could not from various circum- 
stances, if they would. The stock-man, who would prob- 
ably say that I have been trying to take the bread out 
of his mouth, must therefore be relied on, but if possible 
let the barbarity of his tools, the big stock-axe and the 
bill-hook, be pointed out, and the charms of the Grecian 
saw explained to him. If a novice, it will be well also 
to ascertain that he knows a Dog-Rose when he sees it. 

I 



114 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE chap. 



When I was ill one winter, I was pleased to hear that a 
parishioner had brought me a nice lot of stocks at a 
reasonable price. One of the first acts of my convales- 
cence was to inspect their quality. And alas ! not only 
were the majority practically useless from chops and 
other injuries, but a third of the whole were not Rose 
stocks but blackberries ! 

This reminds me of another amusing incident, which 
I will relate exactly as it occurred. It refers to the 
spelling of the word briar, but throws no light upon the 
debated point whether an ' e ' should take the place of 
the ' a.' The occasion was the examination of a night 
school for the Government grant, and the teachers were 
allowed to conduct it subject to the rules sent to them. 
A young East Anglian labourer was going through the 
reading ordeal, and his teachers, of whom I was one, 
were anxiously watching his struggles. He had sunk 
twice — I mean he had made two mistakes in his allotted 
piece — and three would mean failure. He came to the 
word in question, stopped dead, and spelt it slowly. We 
encouraged him, and patted him on the back, for he had 
all the appearance of having a word in him but of being 
afraid to part with it. At last, after much exhortation to 
play the man and " out with it," he spelt it again very 
carefully, " b-r-i-a-r," and then the word burst forth quite 
suddenly like an explosion, " brumble-bush ! " " Well 
well ! yes, oh yes ! " said my dear old colleague (long 
since deceased) : " eh ? pass that — oh yes ! he knows what 
it means." I said nothing, and I am afraid the Educa- 
tion Department was slightly defrauded; but my Rosarian 
conscience was against it, for I knew that to the Suffolk 
rustic both briars and blackberries were " brumble- 
bushes." 

An amateur will want even more briar cuttings than 



STOCKS 



115 



standard stocks. These are cheap to buy, ready rooted 
for next year's budding, and it is not always easy to 
raise a good crop of them at home. There is a good 
deal of trouble connected with it. and it may perhaps be 
said that all this extra labour to raise one's own stocks 
is like the enthusiasm of the man who blacked himself 
all over to play Othello. Still too much enthusiasm is 
better than too little, and as I can raise better briar cut- 
tings than I can buy, the way to do it shall be described. 

It is rather a monotonous business, with much less 
interest in it than the getting of standard stocks. 
About the middle of October is the time for com- 
mencing operations, which should be got over before the 
planting of Roses and rooted stocks is undertaken. The 
ripest possible wood of the year's growth should be 
chosen and cut up into lengths of ten inches. Material 
for this choice will be found in the wild growth of the 
briar stocks budded that year, and only pieces without 
any lateral growth should be selected. The cuttings 
should now be trimmed with a sharp knife, every bud 
except the two nearest the top being clean cut out with 
the knife, not rubbed off with the fingers, and all the 
thorns removed. All this is important, as every other 
bud or part of a bud left will be sure to produce a 
sucker, and the thorns will prove a hindrance in many 
ways if suffered to remain. The bottom of the shoot 
should be a clean cut, not too sloping, and no " heel," or 
portion of older wood, should be retained. A " heel " is 
recommended where cuttings of the Roses themselves 
are taken. a> it makes root growth more easy; but, as 
a sure and fruitful source of suckers, it must not be 
allowed for briar cuttings, which will generally root 
fairly if they be formed of ripe wood and are properly 
planted and cared for. 



116 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



We have now the cuttings ready for planting, smooth 
shoots of wood ten inches long, with two buds left at the 
top. These should be at once set in a piece of fairly 
light and very clean soil, deep enough to almost cover the 
lower bud. Double rows may again be used, ten inches 
and four inches alternately separating the rows, and the 
cuttings three inches apart from each other. It is 
advisable to set twice as many as you expect to want ; 
for, though the trimming of the cuttings takes a 
considerable time, the crop is uncertain, and there is 
much virtue in the comfortable old adage to " make a 
job of a thing while you are about it." The soil should 
be made as firm as possible about the cuttings, but 
nevertheless if you come after a sharp frost and just 
touch the top of one with your finger you will find that 
it has been raised up, sometimes an inch or more, in its 
hole. They should all be gently pushed down again 
till they rest firmly. 

They grow but slowly in the spring, but increase in 
rapidity of growth when they have once become rooted 
and some will probably make quite strong shoots in the 
autumn. These might in some instances be budded at 
once, but it is best to leave them all to the next year 
for that operation. With the summer will be realised 
the advantage of the advice to choose a piece of clean 
soil free from weeds. The shoots are close to the earth, 
and the first ones grow horizontally almost on the 
ground. Not only therefore is it almost impossible to 
hoe them, but a full growth of weeds can almost 
entirely smother the briar shoots. The weeds must 
therefore be hand-picked, a troublesome and unpleasant 
job. 

In the planting season they must all be dug up, 
remembering how deep they are planted and that all 



VII 



STOCKS 



117 



the roots which are to be utilised are at the bottom, and 
the plants trimmed. All roots must be cut cleanly off, 
except those proceeding from the very base of the plants, 
and those retained shortened to one uniform length. The 
growth at the tops may also be shortened to two or three 
buds, and the plants then transferred to their budding 
quarters. Here they should be planted about two inches 
deep, care being taken if possible to spread the roots out 
in every direction, as few fresh ones will come from the 
base of the cutting, and if there is a side on which there 
is no roots the plant will never be firm against the wind 
from that quarter. If the plants are permanently to 
remain where they are budded, the distances between 
each will depend upon the varieties of Roses worked on 
them, as explained on p. 47. But if it is intended 
to move them after the maiden growth of the Rose, 
nine inches apart between the plants, more or less, 
accordingly as they are intended for Teas or strong 
H.P.s, will do for distance. 

It is plain that by thus raising our own briar cuttings 
we lose a year compared with the plan of buying them 
ready rooted. This difficulty should be overcome by 
buying rooted cuttings the first year, as well as setting 
a supply at home. An amateur commencing business 
had better buy a double supply of cuttings the first 
year, half rooted for budding the next year, and half 
unrooted for the year after. 

Manetti cuttings, which are useful to an exhibitor for 
the production of early maiden blooms of the H.P.s, may 
be raised and treated in exactly the same way. They 
strike much easier than the briar cuttings, and there 
should be very few which fail to root. 

I have never gone the length of trying to raise briar 
seedlings, as they are cheap to purchase in quantity, and 



118 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. VII 



I have not much faith in the stock for highly cultivated 
Roses. The seeds should be rubbed out of the ripe heps, 
and sown an inch deep in drills about a foot apart. All 
will not germinate, and a great amount of difference 
will be found in the plants by the end of the year. 
Many will still be quite tiny things, and a person unac- 
quainted with their power of growth would think the 
finest far too weak for budding the following August. 
But the second year's growth is astonishing: puny 
plants, with roots hardly bigger than knitting needles, 
and weak shoots in proportion, will sometimes in that 
short time have become veritable bushes with strong 
fleshy upright shoots, and a main root to bud on as 
thick as a man's finger. Those that are evidently too 
small for budding the following summer should be re- 
served for another year, or transferred to pots for budding 
or grafting there. 

The seedling briar has naturally a tap-root ; in fact, 
as with all seedlings, there is only a tap-root at first. 
When purchased, the length and straightness of the 
roots are remarkable : and it seems probable that this 
want of balance between the head and the roots accounts 
for the remarkable growth of the second season. The 
tap-roots should be boldly shortened, as it is our object 
to encourage comparatively shallow roots as much as 
possible. There will still be a tendency to root deep, 
and, when Rose plants on the seedling briar are moved, 
roots with a downward inclination should be suppressed 
and any horizontal ones encouraged. In planting out 
briar seedlings for budding, the " collar," or place where 
root ends and stem begins, should be upon the surface 
of the ground not beneath it, for the rose is budded in 
this case upon the main root below the collar. 



CHAPTER VIII 



PROPAGATION 

Budding is so much the most important mode of 
propagating Roses, that it naturally occupies the first 
place. We will suppose that a goodly supply of stocks — 
briar standards, cuttings, and seedlings, and manetti 
cuttings — have been planted during the winter as de- 
scribed in the last chapter, and commence their growth 
in the spring. Do they need any special care till the 
time for budding arrives ? If they do, they very seldom 
get it, but the Rosarian who intends, and is able, to do 
everything thoroughly, to promote all that is useful to 
his Roses, and war against all that is hurtful, may find 
some useful work here. During the grub and caterpillar 
season in April and May he will give occasional turns 
of examination and handpicking to the wild growth on 
his stocks, besides the systematic and close search which 
he will make on his Rose plants. It is true the wild 
growth will battle through the insect attacks, and there 
is no bloom to be injured ; but some check at least will 
be experienced from these causes by the stocks, and if 
the insects are allowed to fulfil their course they will 
breed and increase, and we shall have to deal with their 
progeny on the Roses. We can hardly exterminate 
these pests, but we ought not to allow them to breed on 



120 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



our premises, on the ground that they are not doing 
much harm just where they are. 

The next point of importance is the treatment of the 
standard stocks. In almost all the books on the subject 
that I have read it is advised that, sooner or later before 
budding, all shoots from the standard stems be removed 
except the two or three near the top which are reserved 
to be operated upon. I would say : Do nothing of the 
sort — do not remove unnecessarily a single leaf, save of 
suckers from beneath the surface of the soil, and let 
these be gently but firmly pulled out as will hereafter 
be described. Remove no lateral branch or part of one 
during the whole season of growth : and as this seems 
opposed to general recommendation, I will endeavour to 
give the reason for the advice. 

A plant in its natural state has always a complete 
balance of strength between the parts above ground and 
underground — the branches and the roots. If, in sum- 
mer or during the period of growth, the roots be injured, 
cut off, or lessened, the foliage, which is the most 
prominent outward sign of vigour, will suffer in propor- 
tion, but if not killed will restore the balance of root 
power as soon as possible. If, on the other hand, shoots 
or leaves are cut off or injured during the summer, the 
roots will cease to increase till they have restored the 
balance of power to the foliage. Thus, in summer, 
cutting back the roots hinders the growth of the plant, 
and taking away shoots with leaves on them checks the 
growth of the roots. 

But if roots or shoots are cut off during the sleep of 
winter, no immediate check is given by either to the 
other, and the first thing the plant does when it wakes 
up in the spring is to try to restore the balance. If it 
finds itself with a large growth above ground and roots 



VIII 



PROPAGATION 



121 



that have been lessened, the plant will comparatively 
stand still just alive till the roots have grown up to the 
balance again. If, however, it finds itself with strong 
powerful roots, and only two or three buds left on the 
plant into which the sap can pass, it makes up the 
balance as quickly as it can by unusually strong growth 
and large fleshy leaves. 

This is what we aim at in trying to make a maiden 
Rose plant by budding on the wild stock. We want it 
to grow as strongly and as quickly as possible, for among 
H.P.s the very finest blooms are thus produced and some 
very choice varieties give their best flowers only during 
this first year of extra strong growth. We therefore 
bud on wild briars which have as many branches as 
possible — knowing that each branch represents so much 
root power below — that if one of these be removed the 
roots will cease to increase till the balance has been 
restored — and that if we can next spring divert the 
root power of many wild branches to the one or two 
buds we have inserted, the growth is sure to be extra 
strong and fine. 

This principle is well known in the difference resulting 
from the summer and winter pruning of fruit-trees. If 
we cut back the strong woody shoots in summer, next 
year's growth is partially checked because the roots 
suffer awhile in proportion : the lower wood buds there- 
fore ripen and consolidate to form fruit buds. But if we 
cut back these strong shoots in winter, when there are 
no leaves and all is at rest, the roots when they wake in 
the spring try to make up the balance of foliage by 
strong woody growth equal to that which has been 
cut off. 

So is it with our standard briars. If we cut off any 
shoots in summer we hinder the roots from attaining 



122 THE BOOK OF THE ROSE chap. 

their full development. But if we cut them off in 
winter, when the roots have attained to their maximum 
and are resting, their full strength can be devoted to 
the buds in the spring. 

But some of the advocates for the removal of those 
branches which are not to be budded have given their 
reasons for the advice. They say the object is to divert 
the entire strength of the plant into the selected shoots 
before they are budded. This is not quite correct : the 
full strength of the plant will be lost, for the check to 
the roots will be considerable. Yet it is true that the 
selected shoots will grow more vigorously, for the plant 
will try to make up the balance in both ways, in 
lessened root power and also increased growth in such 
branches as remain. But, in the first place, we do not 
want such extra stout branches to bud on: if bisr 
enough, the union will be better than on a very large 
shoot, because a small one will have to swell and 
increase with the strong growth rising from it. And, 
in the second place, what Ave do want especially is as 
much extension and strength in the roots as we can get 
for the support of the maiden growth of the Rose. 

It is naturally much easier to bud upon standard 
stocks where some of the shoots have been removed 
than it is upon such a rampant hedge of thorny 
growth as will be formed by a row of unrestricted 
stocks if they have grown well. But the knowledge 
that all this prickly luxuriance represents the power 
we are going to put into the growth of our buds next 
season should be an encouragement for a bold attack, 
and a comforter against thorny assaults. The branches 
should be carefully shifted and turned aside to expose 
the places for operation, and the thorns can be com- 
pelled to make themselves useful, as the branches 



VIII 



PROPAGATION 



123 



will catch and hold to one another wherever laid 
without tying. 

The principal time for budding is the latter part of 
July and the whole month of August. I have success- 
fully budded Roses out of doors in each of the six 
months commencing with May and ending with 
October, and there would not be much difficulty in 
finding stocks in the proper condition in June and 
September, but to get buds in the right state would 
then be more difficult. Manetti stocks may be well 
budded with hardy H.P.s in September; and a com- 
mencement should be made with the Teas first of all if 
possible. This is not only because the inserted Tea bud 
will thereby become better ripened and more able * to 
withstand the winter, but also because these buds, in 
many of the varieties, are difficult to procure, and it is 
good policy to begin early, and use them whenever they 
can be got. 

I have used no illustrations to aid the description of 
the process, because they have always seemed to me 
unsatisfactory ; for all manual operations example is far 
better than precept, and I would strongly recommend 
the seeing it done by an old hand, even if only once, 
in preference to relying upon descriptions or figures 
alone. It is best for an amateur to learn of an amateur, 
provided of course the teacher be experienced and 
trustworthy ; for, without throwing any discredit upon 
the wonderfully clever and rapid performances of pro- 
fessional budders, it is plain that an amateur works 
upon rather different lines. He has not such a wealth 
of " stuff" to fall back on, either of buds or stocks, and 
having more time can afford to be more careful and 
particular about every stage of the operation. 

No tools are required beyond a budding knife. It is 



124 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



hardly necessary to say that this should be as sharp as 
possible, but a hone is not so often required as in 
pruning, since no hard substances will require to be 
cut. The curve at the end of the bone handle for turning 
up the bark of the stock is made of different shapes, and 
a young operator will soon find which is most convenient 
for him. A bundle of ties of Raffia grass, split where 
too thick, and shortened to ten inches or a foot each 
(better too long than too short), should be fastened to 
the waist so that one tie can be slipped out easily as 
required. 

The buds chosen should be half ripe, and plump but 
not grown out. Experience will soon teach the proper 
condition : but, as a general rule, at the end of July 
and beginning of August, buds in the proper condition 
will be found on the shoot from which a bloom is then 
cut ; before that time the shoot must mature more or 
less after the flower is cut before the buds are ready : 
after it the buds will be ready on the shoot before it has 
bloomed, and in September only the latest shoots which 
are still growing will be of use. Those who grow for 
exhibition will generally have a difficulty in finding 
early buds ; the shoots are so forced by high culture 
and feeding that the buds begin to grow out all up the 
stems before the flowers open, and a more natural state 
of things later on must be waited for. A fully developed 
plump bud is desirable, but this is of less importance 
than the condition of the shoot, which should not be 
more than half-ripe, with the sap still flowing freely so 
that the wood parts easily from the bark. Professionals 
will often use a shoot for budding, where some amateurs 
would say that there were no buds, as none are visible. 
There is always a bud under every leaf-stalk, and it is 
far better to use those in this undeveloped condition 



VIII 



PROPAGATION 



125 



when the wood will come out satisfactorily than older 
and more attractive looking buds which cannot be 
properly prepared. 

As a rule, buds should always be taken from a shoot 
which has, or has had, a good bloom on it. Some sorts, 
like Francois Michelon, often have long strong flower- 
less shoots, with plenty of good wood buds on them. 
If these buds be used there is a strong probability of 
no flowers being produced the first year. In Tea Roses, 
the next bud to the bloom is often flattish and pointed 
instead of round and plump. These should not be 
used, as they will often produce, if they take, just a 
poor little bloom upon an inch or two of stalk, perhaps 
with no leaves at all, and soon die. 

The chosen shoots should be cut off with scissors, 
and all the leaves immediately snipped off, leaving 
about an inch of footstalk to each. This is not only 
for convenience, since it must be done before the 
buds are used, but also because evaporation takes 
place through the leaves, and the whole shoot will soon 
wither if they are left on. A quantity of buds may be 
carried about for some time without taking any harm if 
the leaves are thus removed at once : but if a great 
quantity is taken at a time, or the buds have been 
received by post, it is better to carry them about in 
water. 

Standard stocks are budded upon the laterals, the 
growth of the year, as close to the upright stem as 
possible. The general practice is to bud two branches, 
though only one is necessary. Should both of these fail, 
a use will be found for the other laterals, which have 
not been removed for the reasons given above, for it will 
be better to bud on these fresh shoots as the reserved 
ground than on one where a bud has already failed. 



126 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



Like the buds, the branches of the stock should be 
" half-ripe." If worked on too soon, while still soft, or 
when the wood appears green instead of white when 
the bark is turned back, the chances of success are much 
diminished, and the shoot is very likely to break off at 
the cross cut. If attempted too late, a stock which has 
not got a strong root hold often ceases to grow for a 
while in a dry August, and the flow of sap being 
lessened, the bark does not rise freely and readily. It is 
absolutely useless to attempt budding in such a case, 
where there is any difficulty in raising the bark. An 
experienced eye can generally tell by the appearance of 
growth or the want of it in the tips of the shoots, 
whether the bark will rise and budding may be done. 

Do not necessarily choose the strongest laterals, but 
medium-sized shoots half ripe but growing freely. Rub 
the thorns off the two inches of the branch to be oper- 
ated on which are nearest to the main stem. Next make 
a cross cut half an inch long and about an inch from 
the stem, and be sure it goes clean down to the wood, then 
make a clean straight longitudinal cut at right angles 
to the first one as far as the stem. Insert the bone 
handle of the budding knife into this cut, and pass it 
evenly down under the bark on both sides from cross 
cut to stem, raising it a little, so that the two cuts form 
a T. It is best so to choose the position that the 
longitudinal cut does not pass through or near a wild 
natural bud, as this will leave a little projection which 
will hinder the smooth passage of the bud. It is not 
worth while to try and get the new bud just where a 
wild one was before. 

The stock is now ready and we turn to take a bud 
from our Rose shoot. This should be sliced off so that 
we have the leaf stalk with the bud under it in the 



VIII 



PROPAGATION 



127 



centre of about an inch of bark, the other side being 
flat and smooth and containing a portion of the wood of 
the Rose. 

Now comes the most critical point. The wood has to 
be cleanly removed from the inside of the shield of bark 
without taking with it the immature soft growth or 
cambium, which forms the inside of the bud. If the 
bud is in the right condition the wood generally breaks 
away from the bud leaving the appearance of a hole 
which is filled up. But if the inside of the bud appears 
hollow, a fresh one should be taken, as a large percentage 
of failures arises entirely from this cause. Occasionally 
some may grow, but a good union is unlikely and most 
will fail utterly. 

The point of the budding knife carefully inserted at 
one end is usually the means by which the wood is got 
out, though I knew an old gardener who said he " kept 
a thoomb-nail o' purpose," a gruesome object which he 
exhibited with pride. The beginner had better try 
several ways till he finds what suits him best, remem- 
bering that the one object is to get the wood out clean, 
and yet leave the inside of the bud. Which end of the 
wood should be raised first will naturally depend 
upon whether it is to be lifted, pulled, or pushed 
out. 

If the wood comes out all right leaving the bud, there 
will probably be no trouble with any buds on that shoot. 
And vice versa, for it is the condition of the shoot which 
is at fault, if you find that you have pulled the in- 
terior of a bud out, take extra pains with the other 
buds on that shoot if a better one is not to be found : 
in obstinate cases, the knife itself may be passed down 
under the bark, and help the desired object. But care 
must be taken that the inner surface of the bark of the 



128 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



bud be not bruised or cut and that no grit or foreign 
substance whatever gets in. 

If the wood will not come out clean but adheres in 
places, the bud is over-ripe and should not be used. If 
it be very small or not ripe enough, some advise that it 
be inserted without removing the wood. In such a case 
the bud will sometimes grow, but this is grafting 
not budding, and the union will not be so good or 
lasting. 

The bud thus prepared must without any delay be 
slipped under the cross cut and down the longitudinal 
one, so that it just touches and fits to the cross cut. 
This is not essential but is more likely to ensure success. 
Many make the shield of bark containing the bud con- 
siderably longer than the longitudinal slit which is to 
enclose it, and cut it across when it is in so that it exactly 
fits the cross cut. This is the mode generally adopted 
by professionals, and requires a steady hand, good sight, 
and a very keen knife. Amateurs probably more often 
make the bud the right length to start with, cutting the 
upper end square. The leaf-stalk will form a useful 
handle for pushing the bud down into position. 

The bud should now be tied in, making the bands of 
raffia touch one another and cover the whole of the slit 
wood except the bud itself. The tie should be made 
firm and fairly tight, and should not be removed for four 
weeks, unless it is seen to be cutting into the bark. 
The bud will generally have taken or failed by the end 
of three weeks, but sometimes this is a little too soon to 
remove the ties entirely. No shading is necessary 
in the hottest weather, if the stock continues in good 
growing order. 

There should be no shortening of the budded shoots, 
before, at the time, or after budding. Shortening 



VIII 



PROPAGATION 



129 



checks the flow of sap to the bud instead of increasing 
it. When the ties are removed, standard stocks that 
have failed may be re-budded on fresh shoots. The 
date of budding each stock or row should be entered 
on the label or in a book, that the proper time for 
removing the ties may be known. 

Some recommend budding with only the longitudinal 
cut and no transverse one. This may be a more satis- 
factory operation when it is done, but it requires an 
expert hand to get the bud in under these circum- 
stances, and the cross-cut system answers very well. 

Budding on cutting or seedling stocks to make 
"dwarf" plants is practised in just the same way, 
except that in this case the bud is not put into the 
branches, but into the old wood of the main stem 
beneath, if possible, the surface of the ground. As 
before, no growths should be cut away or stopped, but 
the shoots may be bent back to allow access to the 
stem. A trowel or the blunt stump of an old knife 
may be used for removing the earth round the stock to 
the depth of an inch or more. The stem should then 
be rubbed with the hand or a piece of old flannel or 
cloth to make it clean and free from grit, no harm 
being done by the removal of the epidermis or outer 
skin of bark. 

The operation now proceeds as in standards, only one 
bud being put into each stock, and great care being 
taken that no particles of earth or extraneous matter 
get in between the bud and the stock. With extra 
strong manettis, or in any case where a small bud has 
to be put into a strong rough thick-barked stock, thin 
slices may be taken from the lips of the bark to 
prevent its completely meeting over the bud, and 
"drowning" it in growth. Formerly the material 

K 



130 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



used for the tying in of buds was bast or Russian 
matting, and then soft thick white cotton, called 
"bonnet cotton," was much used by amateurs. But 
the introduction of Raffia grass supplied a material 
of just the right consistence, softness and pliability, 
which has also the happy knack for the purpose, when 
close to the damp earth, of gradually rotting, so that at 
the end of a month or more the ties on dwarf plants 
become loose of themselves. 

It is not therefore necessary to unfasten them : but 
amateurs will generally like to inspect the result of 
their operations, and where there has been a failure the 
stock can generally be rebudded on the other side, or 
lower down. The bud will be the better for being 
exposed to the air, but, after it has taken, accidental 
re-covering of earth will seldom do any harm. 

Seedling briars are to be budded on the main root 
immediately below the " collar," which is full of dor- 
mant buds. This root is often crooked, with fibres 
proceeding from it, and the best available spot for bud- 
ding should be chosen even if it is some little way 
down. It is the most difficult stock to work, and, in 
case of failure, room can seldom be found for a second 
attempt. 

Occasionally the buds will "grow out" as it is 
termed, that is, start into growth and even give good 
blooms the same season that they are budded. There 
is no harm in this provided it has not been forced by 
the shortening of the wild growth. On the contrary, 
with hardy sorts it makes the establishment of the 
Rose plant a matter of certainty. The shoot should be 
secured to a stake and not shortened, but pruned back 
very close in the following spring. 

No further care will be required for the budded 



VIII 



PROPAGATION 



131 



stocks, beyond removing the ties at the expiration of 
four weeks or a little less, till October or November. 
In the middle of the former month, where the buds 
look weak or doubtful, all the wild growth may be cut 
away — in standards, reserving one or two wild buds 
only on the worked shoots above the inserted bud, and 
cleanly removing all others which have been unsuccess- 
ful or unbudded — on dwarfs cutting away the actual 
stem with all the wild growth upon it to within three 
or four inches of the bud — and on seedlings cutting 
away above the bud and below the collar. Where the 
buds look strong and healthy all this work should be 
left till November, or they might commence growth 
which would be very undesirable ; but a week or two 
of genial weather, before the roots are quite dormant, 
may sometimes strengthen and plump up a doubtful 
bud, and encourage it to live through the winter. 

The buds of Teas will, in many places, require pro- 
tection during the winter, as described in Chapter IV. 
Some of the earliest buds may begin to grow even in 
March, and all, whether dormant or growing, will need 
constant examination during April to protect them from 
insect enemies, especially weevils and the black grub. 

Some recommend the pinching closely back of 
those buds which start with only one shoot, to 
cause them to break again in two or more shoots. I 
used to find it necessary to " harden my heart " very 
much to perform this operation : and, since a sharp 
frost supervened one year and killed nearly the whole 
of these mutilated buds, I have given it up com- 
pletely, believing one shoot "in the hand (or at all 
events securely tied up) to be worth two in the bush." 
It is regularly done, however, in many large nurseries, 
even with the tenderest Teas. 

K 2 



132 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



It is absolutely necessary that the growing shoot be 
tied to some support as soon as possible, and that 
care should be taken throughout the first season to 
see that it is really secure. Great caution should be 
used in making the first tie with a strong stiff shoot — 
the union is very insecure, and even a crack from bend- 
ing too much, or a sudden jar, may ruin all in a moment. 
Never mind spoiling the shape or look of the plant : 
we may think of that next year. The union is not 
perfect, at least for some time, during the first season, 
and the shoot is generally top-heavy. The finer the 
growth and the better the head formed, the more 
certain it is to be blown out if not securely tied. 
Nothing is more aggravating than to come out some 
morning in spring or summer and find the whole thing 
blown clean out of the stock. The plant is absolutely 
destroyed, and all the time and labour from the first 
getting of the stock is simply thrown away. 

It is best not to try to be economical in such a case, 
or when buds have failed, by budding on the same 
stock again. Fresh stocks are better in every way, and 
briar cuttings whose buds have failed will not form 
good dwarf standard stocks for the next year, though I 
have often tried them. 

Bamboos are now the best stakes and supports, at all 
events of a temporary nature. Budded stocks of man- 
etti, briar cuttings and seedlings should have fairly 
strong bamboos, of length according to the growth 
expected of the Rose, driven firmly in beside them, and 
securely tied to the small portion of stem left of the 
cuttings, and to the root if possible of the seedlings. 
Without this tie, if the bamboo receives a blow or a 
push, the Rose shoot fastened to it may be pulled out. 
The stake should not be behind the stock, that is, on 



VIII 



PROPAGATION 



133 



the opposite side to the bud, but beside it, for if the 
shoot is stiff and grows out at an angle there may be 
a difficulty in fastening it securely till it has grown 
some length. 

Extra stout bamboos should be employed for standards, 
a foot or more, according to the variety budded, higher 
than the topmost bud. The same stake will thus support 
the stock and the growing shoot of the Rose. As soon 
as the bud has fairly started in the standard stocks, the 
small portion of the wild shoot remaining may be cut 
away with a clean sloping cut close to the bud. The 
reason for leaving it is that it may sometimes be found 
useful in coaxing a bud to start, by letting a wild bud 
push for an inch or two thus drawing a flow of sap, and 
if that does not answer stopping it back again. 

These dormant buds that will not begin to grow are a 
great trial to the standard stock as well as to the patience 
of the cultivator. The strong roots, equal in balance to all 
the growth that was removed in November, keep send- 
ing up full supplies of sap, and the plant will endeavour 
to get rid of it by making growth in every possible 
direction, above ground and and below, except sometimes 
through the one tiny channel where it is desired. Such 
buds will occasionally start after all, in June or July, or 
even the following year ; but there is something amiss 
with them, and they are not likely to form good plants. 

The principal thing to remember of the maiden 
growth of newly-budded plants is that no search for 
insects, remedies for mildew or admiration of the 
glorious blooms should hinder the one care of tie — tie — 
tie, or all may be lost in a moment. 

Grafting. — This mode of working the Rose upon 
another stock is so inferior to budding in many ways 
that it only survives because, with the aid of heated 



134 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



houses, it can be practised in the winter. A nursery- 
man, or any one who has the proper appliances, can 
thus increase his stock of any particular variety many 
fold in the middle of winter, and thus multiply the 
number of buds he will be able to use when the outdoor 
stocks are ready. 

It is in this way that new Roses are so quickly pro- 
pagated, but of course any other variety which has 
become scarce can be increased in the same manner. 
Healthy young stocks not too large should be established 
in pots the year before for the purpose. They may be 
manetti or briar cuttings, but the manetti is best, from 
its ready rooting power, and its susceptibility and 
readiness to grow when exposed to heat. If the 
supply of stocks be short, suitable pieces of briar- 
root, taken from stocks where budding has failed, 
have often been found to answer the purpose well. 
It is not intended to form plants for flowering or 
permanence, but only to provide a larger amount of 
buds for outdoor propagation. 

The operation is generally performed in January when 
both stocks and scions are in a dormant condition. All 
available shoots of the Rose should be cut off and stuck 
into the ground somewhere where they will not be 
injured by frost or excited by heat, but kept in the 
winter sleep. The stocks, however, should be just a 
little forwarder, by having been brought into the house 
a short time before, not actually started but ready to 
grow at once on the application of heat. 

The method of grafting usually employed is the 
easiest and simplest — whip-grafting, which is an ordinary 
plain splice such as a fisherman would make to his 
broken rod. The stock is cut straight across with 
scissors an inch or two above the soil in the pot, and is 



VIII 



PROPAGATION 



135 



then sliced up on one side only with a sharp kniie to 
form the stock half of the splice. 

For the scion, if the sort be new and rare, only 
one bud is used. The shoot is snipped into little 
bits, by cutting across as close as possible above each 
bud. This will leave, below each, an inch or more 
of wood, which should then be sliced up to form 
the other part of the splice. Stock and scion should be 
as nearly as possible of the same diameter, but it will 
not matter if the stock is somewhat the bigger of the 
two. 

The essentials of gTafting are ; — that on one side at 
least the inner bark of stock and scion should exactly 
meet, that flow of sap in the stock should take place 
at once, and that air should be excluded till the scion 
has made some growth. 

To meet the first of these necessary points is very 
important. Of course the two parts to be brought 
together will not fit exactly once in a hundred times, and 
the only care therefore should be that the scion should 
fit on one side of the stock and not be placed in the 
middle. 

To prevent its slipping during the tying is rather a 
difficult task till one has seen i: how it's done." Two or 
three turns of a thin bit of Raffia are first taken round 
the lower part of the sloping cut on the stock leaving 
the ends underneath. A third hand comes in very use- 
fully here, and the operator generally utilises his mouth 
for the purpose. The end of the scion is thus held 
ready for putting into position under the tie which is 
then tightened and finished by the hands. 

It is not necessary to make the circles of the tie 
touch each other, nor are wax or clay used for keeping 
out the air. The pot is immediately placed in bottom 



136 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



heat in a frame which excludes the air, and it is most 
interesting to watch the callus or cambium growth 
forming between the two barks. The bud will probably 
start in about three weeks, and then air will be 
gradually given, and a high but even temperature 
maintained till the plant has grown sufficiently to 
be hardened by degrees and to stand exposure to 
an ordinary mild atmosphere. 

The young growths will be very liable to " damp off/' 
and the usual precautions against this catastrophe, of 
admitting air above, even in frosty weather when the 
heat must be increased, must be strictly attended to. 
Roses propagated in this manner are of very little use 
for planting out, and the amateur, in ordering new 
varieties, should see that he does not get them. 

Where there are no appliances of close frames with 
bottom heat, the operation must be deferred to a little 
later in the year, the stocks must be in a more forward 
condition, and grafting wax must be used to cover the 
whole of the operated parts closely, as is the case with 
fruit-trees grafted in the open air. French grafting 
wax which can be used cold is preferable to home-made 
material, but winter grafting can hardly be considered 
worth the trouble for amateurs, unless it be earned out 
on a large scale, and close frames with bottom heat in 
properly constructed houses can be provided. 

Boses on their own Boots. — It is constantly being put 
forward as a new discovery that Roses, especially some 
varieties, may themselves be struck as cuttings, and 
will in time form fair plants and give decent blooms. 
" Why then," it is said, " take all this trouble about 
stocks and budding ? You plant your cuttings in the 
autumn, in any quantity, as it is all wood that you will 
cut away at the spring pruning, and you thus get real 



VIII 



PROPAGATION 



137 



genuine Rose bushes — Roses on their own roots, which 
cannot be killed by frost unless root and all perish 
together and whose suckers are welcome as they are 
only increase to the Roses." 

The simple answer to this is, that not only does it 
take longer thus to form plants which will give fair 
flowers, but that it is a fact that Roses on their own 
roots do not grow so well or flower so well as those 
which are budded on stronger rooting stocks. Never- 
theless some varieties, especially of the free and hardy 
garden sorts, will answer in this way, and the best 
modes of striking the cuttings shall therefore be 
described. 

The usual time for taking them is November. 
They should be prepared of as ripe wood as can be 
found of the current year's growth, about ten inches in 
length. The thorns had better be trimmed off, but 
none of the buds as all these will help if they grow. 
If a small portion of " heel " or older wood be left at 
the bottom, the likelihood of striking will be increased. 
If taken so early that the leaves yet remain, all should 
be removed save the two top ones, and in this case a 
good soaking with water should be given after the 
cuttings are set out. 

They should be set deep, only two buds showing 
above the soil, in double rows as recommended for 
briar and manetti cuttings. It will be a great help to 
the emission of roots if the shoots rest firmly at the 
bottom upon some sharp sand or sifted cocoa-fibre dust. 
Attention must be paid to them, as to briar cuttings, 
after sharp frosts which lift the shoots in their holes. In 
the winter they may be gently pressed down again, but 
if thus raised by frost later when possibly roots may have 
formed, it will be better to tread the soil firmly round 



138 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



them. In the following autumn those that have made 
good growth may be moved, and planted shallower in 
their permanent quarters, and it will then be seen how 
poor are the roots in comparison to those of the stocks 
on which Roses are budded. 

If this method of propagation is carried out during 
the summer, a close frame or at least a hand-glass is 
necessary. The cuttings need not be more than four 
inches long, and should consist of short-jointed wood with 
a heel to each. They should be syringed and kept close 
for a while, and much care will be requisite to prevent 
danrping off. Bottom heat is a great help towards 
getting them on quickly, but all this is generally great 
waste of time and energy, as only a few of the hardiest, 
strongest and commonest sorts will do well on their 
own roots, and these will root fairly as November 
cuttings. 

Suckers and Layering. — The Scotch and Austrian 
Roses and some other sorts, when grown on their own 
roots, form suckers at some little way from the plant, 
and these when rooted may be cut off and transplanted 
to form plants elsewhere. A cut on the under side 
of the sucker beneath the ground will encourage the 
formation of roots. 

Dwarf plants of any free -growing variety may be 
" layered." To perform this operation the shoot must 
be bent down so that it will touch the ground some 
little way from the tip. A small hole should be pre- 
pared here and filled with rooting material, such as leaf- 
mould, sand, and cocoa-fibre dust : the shoot should be 
cut halfway through and then longitudinally so as to 
form a tongue, and then pegged into and planted in this 
hole, when in clue time roots will be produced and a 
new plant formed. 



VIII 



PROPAGATION 



139 



It is possible also to raise Roses from mere buds or 
eyes as vines, but letting the leaf remain. There are 
other methods of inducing the wood and buds of Rose 
shoots to put forth roots, but for the propagation of 
established sorts there is nothing to equal budding, 
with winter grafting for the rapid multiplication of 
rare varieties. 

Hoses from Seed. — A chapter on propagation would 
be very incomplete without at least some reference 
to the raising of Roses from seed, the principal means 
by which new varieties are gained, and to the 
hybridising or crossing of sj3ecial sorts which has 
been so successful of late years with some raisers. 
Unfortunately I can give no minute practical details, 
not having attempted it myself, and successful hybri- 
disers being naturally unwilling to part with the 
secrets of their craft. But something may be said 
on the matter, which may give an outline of the 
proceedings, and lead perhaps some amateurs to 
•make experiments in such a fascinating pursuit. 

It is hardly worth while to undertake it except 
on a somewhat large scale : only a very small pro- 
portion of the seedlings raised will be found worth any- 
thing at all, a good many coming single, and of those 
that are pretty good, few will be found to be any 
advance upon existing kinds. A great deal of patience 
will be required : it is sometimes as much as six years 
before a representative bloom can be got, and two or 
three years more at least, perhaps twice the time, may 
elapse before a good stock of the sort can be worked up. 

Hybridising consists in preventing the pistil of a 
Rose being fertilised by its own stamens, and conveying 
to it the pollen from the stamens of another Rose. This 



140 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



is sometimes, perhaps often, done in the open by bees 
and other insects, and some means must be taken, by 
muslin bags or by working only under glass, to prevent 
their access to the blooms. When the stamens of the 
Rose to be crossed have been taken away, and the pistil 
is ready, the pollen is conveyed to it repeatedly for a 
day or two from the stamens of the other Rose by a 
small camel's-hair pencil, and this pollen may be stored if 
necessary in a box in a dry place before the operation, 
which should be performed with great care on a dry and 
sunny day. 

Both plants should, of course, always be kept in a 
thoroughly healthy condition, and as the ripening of 
the hep or seed pod will take about three months even 
in favourable weather, it is plain that the crossing 
should take place early in the season. 

The seeds should be sown at once, when the pod is 
ripe, a point that may be judged from the bright red 
colour and general appearance of the Rose-fruit. They 
should be sown in pots, in a compost of equal parts of 
loam, burnt earth, and sand, well-drained but pressed 
firm. About half an inch of sand should cover the seeds 
which may be put about an inch apart. The pots should 
now be thoroughly watered and kept in a temperature 
of from 45° to 55° ; but, however managed, the seeds 
come up most irregularly, few germinating before the 
lapse of six weeks, and some taking as many months or 
even a year or two before they grow. 

Even when they have come up, a good many will soon 
die though the utmost care be given them ; and with 
anything like neglect of the strictest requirements of 
young plant life, wholesale destruction may be expected. 
The first opportunity should be seized, after they are 
pricked out and have commenced to grow, for budding or 



VIII 



PROPAGATION 



141 



grafting them on manetti or briar stocks, for it is very 
difficult, especially for a novice, to estimate the value of 
the first bloom on the seedling plant itself. 

If unwilling to experiment in hybridising, an amateur 
may still leave a few of his earliest Rose pods on the 
chance of their ripening, as many did in the hot season 
of 1893. If these be carefully sown, as described above, 
a rich prize may possibly be attained (though the number 
of blanks is astounding), for a large number of our best 
Roses were raised in past years by French nurserymen 
in this haphazard fashion. 



CHAPTER IX. 



PESTS. 

Insects. — A large number of insects of different sorts 
are injurious to Roses and Rose plants, and I do not 
propose to treat of these entomologically but only from 
the Rosarian's point of view — what they are, what harm 
they do, and how to destroy them. As to what they are, 
which in ordinary scientific description would mean 
giving the generic and specific Latin names of each, my 
very slight investigations into the matter tend to show 
that this is no simple task, the specific and even generic 
names depending a good deal upon the authority studied 
and followed. However, a remembrance of the many 
Rose synonyms for the same flowers convinces me that it 
is not politic for Rosarians to find much fault in this 
direction ; and in most cases what we want to know is 
how to keep the enemies off, and how to find them 
when present, and there will not I think be much trouble 
about their identification. 

The keeping the plants in vigorous health is the first 
preventive measure, for it seems undoubted that aphides, 
the scale insect and red spider show a partiality in their 
attacks for plants which are in a weak and sickly con- 
dition. Against all caterpillar and grub depredations, 



CHAP. IX 



PESTS 



143 



late pruning, after the plants have burst into leaf, is the 
only prevention that I know of ; when this measure has 
been found necessary through the earliness of the 
season, a considerable diminution is found in caterpillar 
numbers ; and it is plain that in such cases the parent 
insects have laid their eggs on the bursting buds at the 
top of the shoots, and that all have been happily swept 
away at the pruning. 

I was surprised on first looking into the matter to find 
that most of the common caterpillars or grubs which 
haunt and injure the Rose are the larvae of moths. 
We sometimes see a good many flies of different sorts 
and sizes about our Rose shoots on sunny days in April 
and May, but rarely moths, though there may be, later 
on, two or three moth grubs on every plant. The reason 
of this would probably be that the parent moths visit 
the plants only at night or at all events in the dusk, 
and that they are mostly small, insignificant, fluttering 
insects of the most harmless appearance, and likely in 
general to be unnoticed. 

Among the flies we may perhaps notice some active 
creatures, less than half an inch long, looking something 
like slender-bodied long-legged ants, with iridescent 
wings ; these will be saw-flies, the parents of very hurt- 
ful grubs, and each one caught will probably save some 
trouble and loss. On the other hand some of the flies 
may be ichneumons, which lay their eggs in the bodies 
of caterpillars and therefore do good, but it is a safe 
rule to suspect all insect life ; foes are numerous and 
friends are few, and the more free the Roses are from 
insects of any sort, the better they will be. Bear in 
mind, however, that, next to the aphis or green fly, 
certain small moths are the commonest enemies of 
Rose plants, and if any such innocent-looking flutterers 



144 



THE BOOK OF THE HOSE 



CHAP. 



be seen among them they should be hunted and 
destroyed. 

Earliest in appearance among the moth larvae is what 
is generally known as the black grub. This is " the 
worm i 5 the bud," the Rose grub par excellence, being the 
larva of a pretty and delicate-looking moth (Tortrix). 
It may be found in April or even earlier, the first strong 
pushing shoots of maiden plants being often infested. 
It is more like a fat brown maggot than a caterpillar, 
but has the power of spinning a thread with which 
it fastens the leaves together to form its concealment ; 
and it can let itself down to the ground when disturbed 
by a line which serves for a ladder on its return. 
A little experience of the proper appearance of healthy 
Rose foliage and of the twisted and folded leaves which 
betray the presence of this pest will suffice for its 
discovery on a developed shoot, but it is not always 
so easy to detect it on the precious first pushing bud 
of a maiden plant. If any such bud should make 
a little start and then stop, showing no signs of growth 
since the last visit, it should be carefully examined and 
probed ; in most cases the stoppage will be found to be 
the work of the black grub, which should be promptly 
destroyed. 

Next in point of time, and continuing much later, 
is another moth larva, of the same group (Tortricina), 
and with the same sort of manners and customs. This 
is a dark green grub with a black head, and not so 
plump in body. It folds the leaves together in the 
same way, and generally acts in the same obnoxious 
manner ; but it is more active, and has the power of 
running backwards as quickly as forwards, so that it 
will often escape and fall to the ground, where it lies 
quite still and is not easily found. 




Caterpillar on Rose Shoot. To face p. 145. 

The lower leaves have been unrolled in vain, the creature having passed to an upper 
one, nearer the bud. 



IX 



PESTS 



145 



We shall now begin to find those larvae of moths 
which are more generally called caterpillars. Most of 
these belong to the group of loopers, or geometers, i.e. 
earth measurers, so called because the middle of the 
body, where there are no legs, is constantly being 
raised in a loop as the creature progresses. 

Many of the geometers do not fasten the leaves 
together, trusting to other means for concealment, but 
the commonest of all, at least in my garden, does do 
this. There are a great many species, but the 
habits and general appearance are much alike. They 
fasten the leaves together and hide between them ; 
and feed on the leaves but always work towards 
the top of the shoot and will attack the bud as soon as 
it is formed. It will be noticed that the caterpillar, 
if hatched as usual on the point of the growing shoot, 
keeps hold by a silken thread of each leaf as it unfolds, 
and thus is able at any time to leave its hiding place 
for a new one in a leaf spray higher up, and thus 
gradually to mount towards the bud. 

By this means it also sometimes escapes ; the dis- 
tortion of the leaf spray it has just left is very 
conspicuous, but its new abode is most cleverly con- 
cealed, looking quite natural except that two leaves 
happen to touch back to back. A novice on unrolling 
the curled leaves would often come to the conclusion 
that the insect had escaped or been taken by a bird, 
but the experienced eye will always look upwards to 
the next leaf spray, and the experienced finger will 
always go there first, and not waste time on the decoy 
beneath. These caterpillars are often very abundant from 
the end of April to the beginning of June, and as they 
grow very fast they cannot be looked for too frequently. 

Other geometer larvae do not hide themselves or 

L 



146 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



spin the leaves together, but trust to their colours and 
attitudes for concealment. A dark brown one (JPhy- 
galia) simulates the appearance of a dead stick, and 
another, of a lighter brown with a yellow stripe, imitates 
a dead leaf stalk. Their attitudes are stiff and 
motionless, and it is astonishing how easily the searching 
eye passes them over though they are comparatively 
large caterpillars. When one is found the appearance 
should be carefully noted that the eye may be trained 
to detect another and not be again deceived, for though 
not so common as the leaf- rollers one of these pests 
will soon destroy a bud. 

The larva? of a good many other moths occasionally 
feed on the Rose plants, and in certain districts some 
may become locally special pests. The caterpillar of the 
gold-tailed moth (Auriflua) sometimes called the palmer 
worm, I have found occasionally devouring Eose leaves. 
This is a beautiful and highly coloured caterpillar, with 
bright tufts of hair : it feeds on the leaves of many 
sorts of trees, but I have most commonly found it on 
the hawthorn. 

The saw-flies (Tcnthredinidce) are so called from the 
shape and nature of their ovipositors, the instruments 
with which the females pierce the leaves or bark for the 
insertion of their eggs. There are several genera and 
species which feed on Eose plants, but I have found 
it impossible, with these as with the moths, to name 
them all. I am told by the Eev. J. H. Hocking, who 
has most kindly assisted me in the identification of 
insects, that there would be no room for Eoses in my 
book if I were to attempt it. In my grounds there are 
two special saw-flies (Selandria), very distinct in habit, 
and perhaps including more than two species, which are 
particularly troublesome, 



IX 



PESTS 



147 



The presence of the first may be known by the 
singular appearance of the lower and older leaves 
of the plant, which seem to be semi-transparent 
in patches as if the colouring matter had been 
eaten away but the leaf not actually pierced. In 
such a case the upper and under sides of the leaves 
should be carefully examined, and good eyes will soon 
detect the culprits. These are small slug-like larvae, taper- 
ing in width towards the tail, and exactly the colour 
of the leaves so that they are very readily overlooked. 
They are easily destroyed when found as they make 
no attempt to escape, but as they do not appear till 
Midsummer, when eyes are naturally more occupied with 
the blooms, they often escape notice. As far as I have 
seen they always work gradually up from the lowest 
leaves, and I have never known them do any harm to 
the buds. 

The other saw-fly is also late in its visitations, and 
fortunately not very common, as it is I think without 
exception the most destructive insect among Roses 
that I know. The female deposits her egg in the 
top of the strongest shoot she can find that has 
not yet formed a bud, and thereby absolutely prevents 
it from doing so, without any remedy that I can see. 
The grub when hatched bores straight down into the pith 
of the shoot for an inch or two ; the leaves do not flag 
till all the harm has taken place, and only a tiny black 
spot in the top of the shoot, which seems to have 
stopped growing, reveals the mischief that has been 
done. Cut off about an inch of the top of the stem and 
you will find it hollow ; at the bottom of the excavation 
a fat maggot of a transparent white colour may be seen, 
and pray do not omit to execute summary justice, for it 
will be readily understood that this is a most dangerous 

L 2 



148 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



insect whose presence cannot be detected till the shoot 
is ruined. Preventive measures consist in having all 
the shoots in bud fairly early — in this point and in 
many others the early man has an advantage over his 
competitors. I only find this grub on the latest 
and strongest shoots, and fancy that when once the 
bud is formed it is safe from this pest's attacks. It 
has been uiiusualtv abundant with me this year (189-4), 
but fortunately has confined its visitations princijDally 
to the shoots of briar and manetti stocks. 

Another boring grub, probably the larva of a beetle, 
does only incidental damage, as it confines its operations 
to old wood, where a large shoot has been cut off at the 
pruning, exposing the pith. It is most injurious to 
standard stocks as it hollows out the pith at the top of 
the main stem sometimes right down to, or even below, 
the shoot wherein the bud is inserted, thereby leading 
to the settlement of water and consequent decay. It is 
best, to prevent this, to smear the cut off ends of the 
standard stocks when planted with paint or some similar 
substance which will protect the pith. If, at the first 
pmning of the maiden standard, it is required to cut off 
the top part of the stock down to the newly formed 
Rose-head, this smearing should be renewed, as any 
freshly exposed pith is liable to attack. 

Perhaps the best known of all insect pests of the 
Rose is the aphis or green fly {Aphis rosae). These 
creatures are formidable by their astonishing powers of 
increase, and it is only in multitudes that they do any 
harm. In their anxiety to obey the command to increase 
and multiply, the presence of males is postponed as a use- 
less luxury till the season is nearly over. In the mean- 
time each individual, as soon as full grown, which will 
be in favourable circumstances when about a week old, 



IX 



PESTS 



149 



begins to produce young ones ready to commence juice 
sucking at once, at the rate of a dozen or so a day for 
months. In this manner it is said as many as seventeen 
generations may be produced before the males appear, 
and it is calculated that the descendants of a single 
aphis in one season might thus be reckoned by 
millions. 

Strength, vigour, and cleanliness in the plants seem 
to be the best preventive measures. It may appear 
strange that vigour and health should keep off an insect 
foe, which we should fancy would be naturally congre- 
gated where there was the greatest abundance of sap 
for food, but though they are to be found on healthy 
plants, it will, I think, be generally allowed that the 
weaker ones are the most attacked. 

Destructive and remedial measures are many and 
various. Almost every insecticide known is advertised 
as destroying them ; and no w r onder, for they are delicate 
creatures with no power of escape, and are easily killed. 
The golden rule for all pests — attack the first symptoms 
with immediate vigour — is especially applicable in this 
case. A constant look out, and crushing every one as 
soon as seen, never leaving it till to-morrow, is the 
remedy for aphides. 

Of all instruments and apparatus for the destroying 
of pests there is nothing like the industrious finger and 
thumb, used in the early stages. When a zealous 
amateur discovers a few aphides and sends off at once 
to get and boil his quassia chips, according to the ap- 
proved recipe, for elaborate operations on the morrow, 
while finger and thumb might have destroyed them all 
in a short time, I am always reminded of the story of 
the man who was vending some nostrum for the destruc- 
tion of certain nameless parasites. When the " directions 



150 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



for use " of his specific were disclosed, it appeared that 
each creature had to be caught and a little of the 
powder inserted into its mouth, death following infal- 
libly. The obvious objection to this invention was that 
when once finger and thumb held the victim no more 
aid was required. 

The aphis brush, deftly used, may take the place of 
actual fingers where the pest has attained some dimen- 
sions : and when, through neglect, or such a sudden and 
wholesale attack as sometimes occurs, wholesale means 
must be applied, a syringe and the quassia and soft 
soap mixture will probably prove the best resort. 

Mr. B. R. Cant's directions for the use of this remedy 
are : " Take 4 oz. of quassia chips and boil them ten 
minutes in a gallon of soft water ; then strain it, and 
while cooling dissolve in it 4 oz. of soft soap : to this 
may be added another gallon or two of water." The 
plants should be syringed with this in the morning or 
evening, or badly infested shoots may be dipped in it. 
Pure water should follow the next day to cleanse the 
leaves and shoots. For pot plants under glass smoking 
with tobacco is the usual remedy, but the too much 
despised finger and thumb should check the pest at its 
first appearance. 

Occasionally there is a visitation of winged swarms 
late in the season in such abundance as to be formidable 
from sheer multitude. Such an invasion occurred in 
Suffolk one autumn some years ago ; it was like a 
miniature plague of locusts, for they literally covered 
the whole of the plants on which they alighted till it 
seemed as if there was not room for one more. With 
me they lighted principally on green peas, but at 
Colchester a good many Roses were injured and even 
killed outright. Syringing on a large scale with a 



IX 



PESTS 



151 



powerful garden engine is the remedy in such a 
case. 

It is pretty well known that ants frequent the shoots 
which are attacked by aphides for the purpose of feeding 
on the sweet juice which they secrete, called honey-dew. 
Entomologists tell us that the ants treat the aphides as 
their milch cows, and even convey them about to fresh 
shoots ; and I once found a singular instance of this. 
Some poor briar cuttings had been planted in an odd 
corner of my garden, on the chance of their doing well 
enough to be worth budding. They did not turn out 
well enough and in consequence were neglected, but I 
noticed in the summer a few aphides on the shoots and 
that there were ants in the ground. The stocks were 
dug up to be thrown away in mid-winter, and I then 
found the aphides quite underground feeding on the 
roots, and attended by ants. It seems a fair inference 
that, on the approach of winter, the ants had carried the 
aphides underground for safety. 

Ants in themselves are a pest and should be looked on 
as such. I am doubtful whether they ever attack a 
Rose-bud unless it has been first pierced or scratched by 
another insect or some mischance. But they are readily 
attracted by the exuding sap from the smallest wound, 
and flock to the place in myriads, disbudding sometimes 
offering them such a spot in an undesirable position. 
When once they have thus attacked a bud nothing 
short of finding and destroying the nest with boiling 
water will prevent their devouring the whole of it — even 
finger and thumb fail here because of the immense 
reserve force behind — and, as the bud is certainly spoiled, 
and it will take them some time to demolish it, I 
generally leave it for them to keep them out of other 
mischief. It is better though to watch all ants on the 



152 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



Rose beds, especially the black variety, to their nests, and 
destroy them there. I have tried a preparation called 
Formacicide, advertised as useful for their extermination, 
without much success. 

Frog-hoppers, commonly known as " Cuckoo-spit," are 
very troublesome in May in some places. The larva, 
looking something like an aphis, is to be found in the 
little patch of froth which is generally situated in the 
axil of a leaf. He must be dislodged and crushed, for 
it is plain that all that froth is made somehow from 
stolen sap from the shoot. Be sure you have him, for 
he will dodge about and hide in the hollow of the leaf- 
stalk most cleverly, and will be quite satisfied if you 
wipe away the froth and leave him behind. 

JEaru'igs only do serious harm in certain seasons. In 
1888 their great numbers, even early in the year, were 
a serious nuisance in many ways to dwellers in the 
country, and but for the cold wet weather they would 
probably have developed into an actual plague. Some- 
body who came to see me was incredulous as to the 
number to be found in the Roses, so I picked two large 
old withering blooms, and counted the occupants. I 
myself was astonished at the result : there were, oddly 
enough, twenty-nine earwigs in each Rose ! 

Bean stalks, or hollow lengths of last year's cow- 
parsley stems laid on the ground or among the plants 
are good traps for earwigs ; they may be blown out the 
next morning into boiling water, but chickens will soon 
learn to pick them up very quickly and be the better 
for them ; I always blow the contents of my stalks into 
my garden pool, and my pet trout take care that none 
escape. 

It is difficult to realise that earwigs can fly, but in 
ejection from the stalks the wings, which are wonder- 



IX 



PESTS 



153 



fully folded, being nine times the size of the wing 
covers or cases, are sometimes blown out and can then 
be seen. A white earwig may be found occasionally, 
having just changed his skin. The female is said 
to sit upon her eggs ; not of course that she helps to 
hatch them — she only remains with them to protect 
them from enemies, and will collect and shelter 
them and the young ones when scattered ; I have 
found her coiled over her eggs in a little hollow 
part under the ground, once or twice. Unless in very 
large numbers, these creatures do but little harm to 
the Roses. 

Certain Weevils (OtiorhyncJms) are often in small col- 
lections a very destructive pest to newly budded Roses, 
especially standards. Anxiously each day in April the 
amateur watches the dormant buds of some new and 
precious sort to see if they are starting. At last he sees 
that something has been biting at the buds, but no trace 
of any insect is to be found. Day by day the damage 
increases till at last the buds, even every bit of inserted 
bark, are eaten clean out of the stock, and still no 
vestige of the enemy itself is to be seen. This is the 
work of that most malevolent pest, the weevil. There 
may be plenty of strong Rose plants close by, but he 
will touch none of them if there is a dormant inserted 
bud anywhere where there is a chance of destroying 
a whole future plant. It is just the same with fruit- 
trees, as far as I have seen : I have never observed any 
injury to an established tree (possibly because it would 
not be noticeable), but a bud or graft is sure to be 
attacked if there are any weevils of this sort about. 

The reason they are not visible is because they only 
come out at night. Go with a lamp after dark to the 
infested places and you will soon find them, little 



154 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



brown beetles with long noses. I used to find the 
employment of a pretty strong pair of tweezers com- 
forting to my feelings after many buds had been 
destroyed, but they will drop to the ground at a slight 
alarm and be most difficult to find. A white cloth 
spread under the Rose tree to catch them when they 
fall is a safe precaution. 

Other weevils (Phyllohius), of the most brilliant 
green colour, may be found on the Rose shoots in the 
day time. The injury they inflict is but slight, but 
they should be destroyed, as they form a nuisance when 
present in large numbers. 

Thrips, well known as a pest on many plants under 
glass, are often very destructive in hot seasons on dry 
soil. These active, tiny, black insects cannot eat much 
it is true, but as what they do eat is the petals of the 
Roses themselves they often just suffice to spoil an 
otherwise perfect bloom. In many places they seem to 
be hardly known as an out-door pest; and I could 
scarcely get some friends to believe how much all my 
light-coloured Roses suffered in this way in rusty and 
disfigured petals till the year 1893, when owing to the 
drought the nuisance was more widely felt. 

I am seriously inclined to think that for Teas, at all 
events in my garden, thrips are the worst of all pests. 
From two good rows of standard Teas in fine health 
and growth I gathered in 1893 but one decent bloom, 
the petals being terribly discoloured and even distorted 
in every other case, and each flower swarming with the 
enemy. 

The remedy for thrips as for red spider is moisture ; 
but unfortunately for Tea Roses the remedy is as bad as 
the disease. It is probably a good plan to syringe the 
plants, and the buds before they actually begin to 



IX 



PESTS 



155 



open, with some good insecticide. Syringing, even 
with plain water, will undoubtedly keep off the thrips, 
and if continued as long as it is safe without injuring 
the petals from damp, the pest will not in most seasons 
be found in much strength. Constant damping of the 
soil under the blooms would probably be useful. 

A species of upholsterer bee (Megachile) lines its 
nests with pieces cut out of the leaves of Rose-trees. 
These pieces are taken so evenly, neatly, and cleanly 
away from the sides of the leaf, generally in a semi- 
circular form, that the work of this insect is readily 
distinguished from the depredations of caterpillars. It 
is not very common or occurring in large numbers, and 
usually attacks Roses of free and strong growth. Still, 
it has the habit of continually coming back to the same 
plant for its supply of upholstery, and may be found a 
pest in certain places. The bee may be easily caught 
in a butterfly net, or when laden can be traced to its 
nest which can then be destroyed. 

" Scale " insects (Aspidiotus) may often be found on the 
shoots of neglected wall-Roses. Finger and thumb or a 
solution of soft soap will soon remove them. Red 
spider (Accents) is not likely to be found anywhere but 
under glass, and the remedy for this is a moister 
atmosphere. There are other insects which occasion- 
ally do damage to Roses, especially chance visitations 
of caterpillars which naturally prey upon other plants, 
but these cannot fairly be included among the pests 
of the Rose. 

Protective Insects. — There are a few flies and grubs 
which actually do good by preying upon well-known 
pests, and thus acting as allies and friends of the 
Rose grower. It is important that these should be 
known, for it is well that we should be able to recognise 



156 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



and spare our assistants, though the enemy is in such 
overwhelming majority that the advice to suspect and 
destroy all insect life is common and even safest in cases 
where the friendly forms are unknown. 

Ichneumon flies form one of the strange provisions 
of Nature for keeping in check the undue increase of 
insects. These flies lay their eggs in the eggs of moths 
and butterflies, or in, or on, the bodies of caterpillars and 
grubs, and thus destroy them. They are of all sizes, 
some very small, and of so many species that almost 
every insect has a parasite of this class specially 
belonging to it. On shoots where aphides have been 
some time there may often be seen small brown 
motionless creatures, like aphides solidified and changed 
in colour. These are aphides which have been pierced 
by tiny ichneumon flies, whose eggs have hatched in 
their interior : a magnifying glass will often show a hole 
in the body from which the new-born fly has emerged. 
These brown transmogrified aphides are therefore foes 
transformed into friends — an effort of Nature to assist 
the negligent Rosarian in dealing with the aphis host. 
There is no need to allude further to the ichneumon 
flies, for only the perfect insects are generally seen, and 
these are not likely to be destroyed, nor, as far as I 
know, capable of being increased. 

The well-known lady-bird (Coccinellce) in its larva 
state feeds upon aphides, but I am bound to say that it 
is not common enough to do much good. You must 
have a lot of green fly before the prudent ladybird 
will lay her eggs on the shoot among them, and the 
careful Rosarian will hope to see nothing of one or 
the other. Still the shape of the larva, quite unlike 
that of a Rose-eating grub, and suggesting the perfect 
insect by its spots, should be noted, that this small 



IX 



PESTS 



157 



family of friends may be saved from the general 
massacre. 

A bee-like looking insect (Syrphus) also subsists in 
the grub state upon aphides. This creature is very apt 
to be summarily squashed as an enemy instead of being 
protected as a friend. It may be known by its shape, 
which is something like that of a leech, being widest at 
the tail and tapering gradually to almost a point at the 
head. It is blind, and resting on its hind parts sways 
about the head and neck groping for aphides and when 
it finds one holds it up in the air and devours it leaving 
the skin behind. I have often seen and pointed out 
this larva to friends, that it may be recognised by its 
shape and escape destruction, for in size and colour- — 
green with a light central stripe — it is much like one of 
the common caterpillars ; but I would not advise that 
too much reliance be placed on the efforts of our blind 
ally, for aphides can only be kept completely under by 
sharp eyes and fingers industriously and constantly 
used. 

A very beautiful lace-wing fly (Chrysopa, i.e. golden - 
eyed) also lays its eggs on a strange bunch of stalks 
among aphides, and the larvae when hatched despatch 
them very quickly. 

It will be seen, however, that all these insects 
naturally require the aphides to be present before the 
female will lay the eggs which are to produce the larvae 
to destroy them. We want to exterminate the aphis, 
and this is necessarily not the object of the aphis-eaters 
for in that case their food and occupation would be 
gone. 

It is said that the Government of China pays a 
handsome salary to the court physician while the 
emperor is well, stops his pay when he is ill, and chops 



158 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHIP. 



off his head when he dies. This extremely sensible 
system might, with the omission of the last clause, be 
applied with great advantage by farmers and other 
residents in the country to ratcatchers and other 
professional destroyers of vermin. Unfortunately we 
cannot make use of it in connection with the aphis- 
eaters, as they must perish if deprived of their usual 
food. So that, after all, the wholesale destruction of all 
insect life, though slightly irrational in that it destroys 
a few friends among innumerable foes, will do more good 
than harm to the Roses ; and I am afraid it is better 
that a few friends should perish than that any enemies 
should be allowed to remain. 

To take another analogy from vermin of the farm, 
there is one rat, most difficult to catch of all, for 
whose tail the farmer will willingly pay an extra price, 
and that is the last one. Naturally perhaps, he is 
often left, and before long the nuisance is as bad as 
ever. As aphides are, during the summer, practically 
sexless in the matter of breeding, it is even more 
important in their case- to get the last one on each 
shoot, and if finger and thumb or any such means are 
employed for their destruction the search should be 
thorough, and the same shoot should again be examined 
the next day. 

Fungoid Pests. — Garden roses are subject to an 
unusual number of parasitical fungi, between thirty 
and forty having been enumerated. Happily two only 
are sufficiently prevalent among healthily grown plants 
to be worthy of description and warning, and these are 
mildew and orange fungus. 

Mildeiv. — This is a pest indeed. Sometimes it ap- 
pears in force all of a sudden in several places at once 
and spreads like a fire : the hoary leprous growth covers 



IX 



PESTS 



159 



the leaves 3 checks the transpiration or breathing, and 
lowers more and more, as it increases, the vitality of 
the plants and the consequent spread of the roots. I 
gather from Mr. Cranston's book on Eose culture, 
the first edition of which was published in 1855, that 
it was not so prevalent at that time as it has since 
become. The greatly increased culture, and the intro- 
duction of varieties of weak constitution with soft 
spongy leaves, have probably been responsible for this. 

It is an error to suppose that stout thick leaves are 
proof against mildew : if soft and succulent these are 
often the earliest attacked. It is the hard shiny well- 
glazed leaves upon which the mildew spores can find 
no footing ; and Teas, whose leaves are rather more 
of this character, do not generally suffer much from 
mildew, except under glass, till late in the season. 

Few indeed are the collections of Eoses which now 
pass through a season without at least traces of this 
pest, though close and confined situations always suffer 
more than those which are open and exposed to free 
currents of the air. The amount of harm done will 
greatly depend upon the time when the mildew first 
makes its appearance. It is a bad look out to see the 
first plague spots in June, for if war is to be waged it 
must be unceasing, as the enemy will constantly reappear 
when it has once shown itself. When well into July 
the buds will probably be sufficiently advanced to escape 
serious damage in themselves. 

The life-history of the fungus, called O'idium leucoco- 
nium in its summer and Sphcerotheca pa/n/rwsa in its 
winter condition, has been thoroucdilv investigated a 
fall and interesting paper on the subject having been 
published in the Eosarians Tear Booh for 1886, by 
Mr. Worthington G. Smith. 



160 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



The spores or seed are set free from their winter 
resting places by the heat of early summer, and float 
in the air, some at least commencing to germinate and 
throw out roots even before they alight. Like other 
parasitical fungi-spores, a certain condition of the 
atmosphere and also of the leaves on which they fall 
is necessary for the actual development of the fungus 
growth ; when these are present the first visible sign is 
a spot or curl on a young leaf, which is raised or 
depressed according as the mildew has attacked the 
upper or under surface. 

It should be noticed, as an important thing to 
remember, that the mildew is always worst on the 
under side of the leaf, and is often found there alone. 
For this at once puts aside as useless the merely 
dredging the affected parts with sulphur, as this 
cannot touch the worst places ; and it is evident that 
it must be puffed from below as well as from above, 
and that in all syringing with liquid the under surfaces 
of the leaves must have even more attention than the 
upper. 

The first thing the mildew spore does when it begins 
to grow on the Rose-leaf, is to form the mycelium — 
the tiny white threads which are common to all fungus 
growth from mildew to the mushroom of the fields. 
This, when woven closely together in masses, forms the 
spawn, and then the white efflorescence is seen on the 
leaf. 

The leaf breathes through pores on the under surface : 
these are choked by the woven mass of mildew spawn, 
which also pierces the membranes and lives upon the 
juices. The leaf may thus be said to be suffocated and 
bled to death at the same time. 

At such a time — the first appearance — the time for 



I 



Mildew. To face p. 160. 

The first sign, as seen in the curl of the leaf. 



PESTS 



1G1 



checking a pest — I quite believe that, as in the case of 
aphides, there is nothing to beat the human linger 
and thumb. If dipped in sulphur every now and then, 
the manipulation will be more efficacious : but even 
without it. both sides of the leaf can be treated at the 
same time and the mycelium can be destroyed before it 
has had time to reproduce itself, without injuring the 
leaf. 

When the pest is advanced and whole plants covered 
with readily disturbed fresh spores have to be dealt 
with, other agents, destructive to the mildew and 
applied by mechanical means, must be employed. For 
the plant, so to speak, of the mildew very soon springs 
from the spawn, and fresh spores are ready in a wonder- 
fully short time to be bome by the wind to other 
leaves. 

On touching a shoot infected with mildew on the roof 
of a greenhouse or anywhere where there is plenty of 
light underneath, quite a little shower of dust or mildew 
seed may be seen to fall. Xothing need be feared from 
those that fall to the ground : they are very short- 
lived, and cannot stand much of heat or cold, dryness 
or moisture. Then strength is in their appalling num- 
bers, and their chances of tailing on another Rose leaf 
depend entirely upon currents of air. 

With the first touch of cold weather in Autumn 
mildew, as Ave know it in its summer form, disappears 
and is seen no more that season, only dark unhealthy- 
looking marks on the shoots showing where the pest 
had spread from the leaves to the stems. In such places, 
and especially on the leaves which are now fallen, the 
mildew seeds have retired to rest for the winter, and no 
frost or cold, drought or moisture can harm them. 

These winter places of retreat are tiny black spots, 

M 



162 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



only visible on the dying leaves by the aid of a magni- 
fying glass, though a higher power of the microscope 
reveals them as round black receptacles or boxes, each 
containing eight spores. In these minute black spots 
on the leaves Rose mildew passes its winter sleep, unhurt 
by all that may befall save fire or being buried deeply 
in the ground. The sun of the following summer will 
burst the walls of the cases, and set free the spores once 
more. 

Collecting and destroying by fire the fallen leaves is 
thus plainly the only mode of prevention, which in most 
cases will probably be found impracticable, but even a 
partial earning out of this plan should have some effect. 
It is impossible to say how far the spores may be carried 
by a strong wind, but probably many miles. An actual 
stamping out of the pest is therefore I fear beyond our 
reach. 

Preventive measures consist first in the choice of an 
open situation : in a confined place the seeds floating in 
the wind are more apt to drop, or to be earned round 
and round till they do attach themselves to leaves : 
where there is free passage for the air, the same wind 
that brings them will take most of them farther on. and 
only a few will find resting places. 

Draughts should be avoided : places where the wind 
comes round a corner or even through an open door are 
often the first to be attacked. And another point is 
just what we should recommend to a human body 
exposed to disease-germs : keep up the constitution 
and general health and hardiness as much as possible. 
Avoid drought by hoeing rather than watering if 
practicable : see to the food supply, and avoid un- 
healthy conditions. 

Certain Hoses are peculiarly susceptible to mildew, 



IX 



PESTS 



163 



Her Majesty for instance. It is a good plan to grow 
these among the Teas, or, better still, by themselves, 
where they will not, in the early part of the season, do 
so much harm by infection. 

For remedial measures, keep the sharpest look out 
when mid- June arrives, or even before, for the first spots. 
Search them out, and attack them all above and below 
with finger and thumb, powder distributor, or syringe. 
Sulphur alone is good enough, if it reaches every part, 
the under as well as the upper side of the leaves. 

The objection to the use of a solution of sulphide of 
potassium seems to me to be that being merely a liquid 
without any greasy nature it runs off the leaves at once. 
A mixture of soft soap and sulphur in water is best for 
the syringe, which must be used if there is any wind : 
but I still believe that puffing sulphur from below as well 
as above, when the air is still and the leaves are damp, 
is as good a remedy as is to be found. Sulphur is 
the destroying agent, whatever mixture or specific is 
used. 

For Roses under glass preventive measures will consist 
of great care in the ventilation. One year, by way of 
experiment, I never opened the ventilators at all for 
my Marechal Niel, and it bloomed extremely well. 
Better no air at all than a cold draught when the sun 
is hot, I am sure. Sulphur upon the hotwater pipes is 
the well-known remedy, and for pot Roses I should use 
finger and thumb with sulphur or sulphur solution. 

Orange Fungus or Red Bust. — This fungus-pest is not 
so well known or so harmful as mildew ; but it is more 
difficult to combat, either by preventive or remedial 
measures, for its growth is inside the leaves and stems 
of the Rose, and it is only when the spores are ready 
for dissemination and scatter with a touch that it 

m 2 



164 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



burst? the membranes of the Rose plant and appears 
outside. 

The life-history of this fungus, known as Colco-sjjoriura 
plague and several other names according to its different 
stages, is much the same as that of Rose-mildew. 
Orange fungus has. too. the resting 1 stage of winter in 
small but visible black spots on the fallen leaves, the 
woven mass of mycelium of spring in the leaves or leaf- 
stalks attacked, and the summer spores which proceed 
from it. 

It can be recognised at once by its colour, which in 
the spring is a purple spot with a concave yellow centre 
on the upper part of the leaf and a convex bright 
orange spot underneath, sometimes red at midsummer, 
changing to simple black spots on the leaves which fall 
quite early in August. In my own garden I see very 
little of the yellow or orange stages., but plenty of the 
last one. 

A considerable point in favour of this pest is that it 
very rarely makes its presence disagreeably and harm- 
fully felt till the first bloom,, the " season " of exhibitors, 
is over. August is the month of its power,, and at that 
time whole rows of Roses of certain sorts may be some- 
times seen standing leafless except for just a tuft of the 
youngest foliage at the top. All the other leaves, 
covered with the black spots, have withered and fallen, 
as if it was winter. 

The Victor Verdier race are the most liable to suffer 
in this way,, and in fact are generally badly off for leaves 
by the end of August,, but a great many other H.P.s 
are often victims, especially the very dark ones and all 
that are budded on manetti. Teas are entirely exempt 
from it. and it is rare under glass. 

Partly from the fact that the first and principal bloom 



IX 



PESTS 



165 



is not affected by it and that it does not seem to do much 
harm to the next year's growth, and partly because there 
appears to be no remedy short of cutting off the attacked 
shoots and burning them, this pest is very little heeded 
by nurserymen or even by amateurs, and I confess I 
take no notice of it and have never found it do my 
summer blooms any practical injury. 

It is plain, however, that the loss of the leaves, in 
what is but little past the middle of summer, must be a 
considerable check to the plants, and it seems probable 
that we hardly know how good and strong the Victor 
Verdier race (which is always more or less affected 
with me) would be, if it were not for this pest. 

As the growth of the fungus is within the membranes 
of the rose plant there seems to be actually no remedy 
short of cutting off the orange-spotted leaves and shoots 
in early summer and burning them ; but I think gentle 
rubbing with finger and thumb with a pinch of sulphur 
is likely to do good in the early stages. 

On light soils, especially those rich in humus or 
vegetable matter like an old garden, the attacks are less 
frequent. They are worst in a dry hot August on heavy 
lands which have not had much farmyard manure. It 
would be almost impossible to stamp out the fungus, as it 
is much more frequent than mildew on the wild briar. 
The Dog-Rose in fact seems to be its natural host, though 
it is sometimes found on other plants. Manetti stocks 
themselves are rarely troubled with it, though it often 
comes first on the Roses budded on it, but seedling briars 
often suffer much and are seriously crippled by its 
attacks. 

I can suggest no other remedies than finger and 
thumb or cutting off and burning in the early stages, 
and diligent hoeing, with watering if necessary, in early 



166 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



August. Exhibitors, whose season is over by mid-July, 
are rather apt to neglect the hoeing and general culture 
when the important operation of budding is in full 
swing. As no real remedy is known for the red rust, 
and little if any practical damage is done by it to the 
blooms, it is not to be wondered at that it is often 
unheeded as a minor and necessary evil. 

Suckers may be looked upon as a pest among the 
growing Roses, which must at all times be looked for and 
eradicated. They are most common from standards, 
especially tall ones which are insecurely staked. These 
latter, when pressed by the wind, naturally throw out 
suckers to support themselves — a shoot goes out from 
the underground stem for a foot or so, then grows up 
and in due course sends a little root down, which forms 
an anchor for the original stem — two or three more on 
the opposite sides and the plant is held firm and cannot 
be rocked by the wind. 

The wild stock will, however, often form suckers on 
well-staked standards and on dwarfs, particularly if the 
Rose be weakly, and underground buds on the stock 
were not originally extirpated. A keen look-out should 
be given to all plants on manetti, as only an eye well 
accustomed to the appearance of the growth of this 
stock will distinguish it from the Rose, and many a 
gardener has hopefully pruned great bushes of manetti 
for years, wondering at the absence of bloom, and 
ignorant that the Rose itself has been starved and killed 
outright. 

The usual way of removing suckers is by the aid of 
a spud, cutting them off as close to the main under- 
ground stem as possible. This course must be pur- 
sued with any that had started the year before or that 



IX 



PESTS 



167 



do not prove amenable to other treatment. But there 
is some risk in doing this of cutting or injuring useful 
roots, and even a small bit of sucker left will often 
start afresh. 

The best plan, as with all pests, is to take the suckers 
in time as soon as ever they are seen, and then, not to 
cut them, but to pull them out. This can be done with 
practice in most cases, and when done it is thoroughly 
effectual : the sucker comes clean away right out of the 
socket, and grows no more. It requires humouring, and 
testing, and trying first this way then that, now up and 
now down. 

When the great red shoot pushes up through the 
soil, plump and gross and brittle like a head of asparagus, 
lift it and handle it gently — " treat him as though you 
loved him," as Isaac Walton said of the worm to be 
threaded on the hook — try to find out the angle at 
which it grows from the stem, and then, grasping it as 
low down as possible, pull so that the strain comes on 
the very socket, and it will generally yield. If it breaks, 
the spud must complete the operation. 

As I write, the Rose world is lamenting one of the 
worst of pests — a sharp May frost. These are often 
very harmful, and do more injury by distortion of the 
just-formed buds than is ever imagined at the time. 
Happily, such a visitation as that of May 21st, 1894, 
coming as it did after an unusually early and forward 
spring, is not common, at all events in the Midland 
and Home Counties, and it is to be hoped that it will be 
long before we have such another. 

Preventive means are possible, at all events in small 
collections. A little weather knowledge, with a careful 
study of the thermometer, will generally give warning 
of the approaching calamity before sunset, and if the 



1G8 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



danger is great all hands should be roused and 
encouraged to noble efforts, even though the work must 
be continued by lamp-light well into the night. 

The first thing to remember is that the greatest 
danger is to those buds that are just formed, hardly 
visible ; forwarder buds that have got hard will stand 
some frost without injury, and shoots where the bud is 
not yet formed, even though apparently crippled at the 
time, will often eventually grow through it and com- 
pletely recover. 

Protecting material must evidently be very light, as 
there will be little time to spare for driving stakes 
into the ground to support it above the highest shoots. 
Anything in the shape of light muslin or similar 
material should be hunted out and spread as gently as 
possible over the plants ; bent shoots can easily be 
straightened again, but of course care must be taken 
that they are not cracked or broken. The frost is not 
likely to be dangerous at that time of year if there 
is wind, as that will probably bring cloud, the best and 
safest of all coverings ; so even old newspapers or any 
large sheets of thin paper may be made useful in such 
cases. 

For remedial measures, when serious May frost has 
come and caught us unprotected, I would recommend, 
first and foremost, patience. Touch nothing at first : 
no one can tell for some little time, till the sun has shone 
warmly on the plants, how much or how little damage 
has been done. Then it may be plain perhaps that 
some shoots, utterly blackened and shrivelled at the 
tips, are done for ; but still I would advise the removal of 
nothing till such time as fresh growth has commenced. 

The soil should be well stirred, and a little nitrate 
or some other stimulant applied ; this will hasten the 



IX 



PESTS 



169 



renewal of growth, and we shall then see which of the 
shoots that had not formed buds have been actually 
"stopped." Those that grow straight away again as 
before from the tip of the shoot are all right. Never 
mind some leaves having been destroyed ; the shoots are 
young and they will " grow out " of the injury, just as a 
child will from a severe wound or accident. Those that 
are stopped, and commence growth again from the side 
buds, are not likely to produce exhibition blooms that 
year ; but it is better to let the top bud grow and pinch 
out all the others, if most of the shoots on the plant are 
in the same condition, than to cut them all away or 
severely back, as that must involve a severe check to 
the roots and the strength of the plant. 

I am sure it is a mistake to cut away the shoots in a 
hurry before fresh growth has shown how far the injury 
has extended. It is better to put up with browned and 
maimed foliage for a while than to risk destroying 
a shoot that may yet recover. It is always sad to 
suffer from not having "let well alone." A friend 
of mine had a fine Wellingtonia, of which he was justly 
proud, growing near his house. One year, to his 
disgust, he found that it had developed two leaders ; he 
naturally wished to cut one of them away, but the tree 
was very tall, and too pliable and slender at the top to 
bear the weight of a ladder. He was (and is) a capital 
shot with rifle or gun ; and having an air-gun that threw 
a bullet accurately, he determined to try and cut 
off the offending shoot with it. He rested his weapon 
on the sill of an upper window, took a very careful aim, 
and with the first shot succeeded in doing what he 
wanted — the false leader was cut off. Much pleased, he 
now noticed there was another shoot that had somewhat 
of an upward tendency, and would be better removed — 



170 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CIO P. IX 



he fired at that, with perhaps less care than before, and 
by a cruel mischance actually cut off the sole remaining 
leader ! 

To find out for certain what buds have been injured 
by the frost will take more time and patience. By no 
means remove them in a hurry ; some will soon be seen 
to become a paler green with white unhealthy-looking 
blotches on them. One or two of the worst of these 
might be cut open, and if the rudimentary petals are 
brown, the bud is rotten and would soon drop off of its 
own accord. Others may be tested by pinching, when 
the points of some will be found soft and hollow ; these 
are of no use. Gradually thin and disbud them ; take off 
no side buds till you have settled whether the crown 
bud is worth leaving or which of the others is the best ; 
or, remove only the worst at each time of inspection till 
there are only two between which to choose. The lower 
side buds of Teas, if the parts above them are removed, 
will often make a good bit of growth, and practically 
become the main stem. Above all, remember, after a 
severe May frost, that the power of recuperation in the 
main shoots of a Rose, while they are yet soft, young, 
and growing, is very great indeed : but nevertheless it 
must be confessed that no embryo bud which is in 
existence during a frost that injures the leaves is likely 
to come to any good. 

Almost as bad a pest in country districts, especially 
where a piece of grass field has been taken in to grow 
Roses to perfection, is that wretched Mr. Nobody who 
leaves the gate unfastened between the Roses and the 
field, and thus lets cows or other live stock in. In 
this case — cxperto crede — there is no real remedy, 
especially where there are children, short of a padlock 
on the gate, and a stile beside it. 



CHAPTER X 



ROSES UNDER GLASS 

This is a large subject, capable of being treated at 
considerable length, for if there is so much to be said 
upon the growing of Roses out of doors under natural 
conditions, even more care, skill, and experience are 
required for their cultivation under artificial circum- 
stances, and at unnatural seasons. There would, 
however, I think be no need for such a treatise in this 
book, even if I were capable of compiling it. Pro- 
fessional Rosarians and skilled gardeners have nothing 
to learn from me in this matter. I write for the genuine 
amateur Rose grower and Rose lover who takes a warm 
personal interest in his favourite flowers. If he be wealthy 
enough to grow and force them on a large scale he will 
no doubt employ a man who has learned the art under 
more able guidance than mine ; but for others I hope 
to give some general principles and outlines of routine 
which should help those who wish to make " a bit of 
glass " useful in the cultivation of the Rose. 

The glass-house for Roses, whether it be merely a 
" pit " or " lean-to," or a more ambitious structure, should 
run lengthways north and south, so as to catch the sun 
in the morning and afternoon, and not suffer from excess 
of heat in the middle of the day. I do not propose to 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



enter into any details of structure ; but in a cool house, 
especially if the Roses are planted in the soil and not 
grown in pots, it is advantageous that the whole of the 
roof should be removable during the summer, when 
canvas may be substituted for the glass for a short time 
if necessary till the plants are hardened to exposure : 
and in all cases the ventilation should be principally 
at the top, and means should be provided in tanks 
and troughs on the hot-water pipes for the evaporation 
of moisture within the house. For early forcing a pit 
is best, because the plants can be placed nearer the 
glass and the light, and the pots may be so arranged 
that they can be lowered to keep them the proper 
distance from the glass as they grow higher. Some- 
thing in the nature of an outside blind, which can be 
pulled up under a ridge on the roof, is a very desirable 
adjunct to a house where Roses are grown after the sun 
has attained its summer strength. 

The simplest form of Rose culture under glass will 
consist of standards or dwarfs planted in beds in a cool 
house where the roof, and indeed as much as possible 
of the structure, can be entirely removed by the middle 
of June. The plants will then be subject to natural 
conditions and treated in the usual manner till about 
the middle of October, when the roof may be entirely 
replaced, but plenty of air may still be given on fine 
days. Many late buds thus sheltered from the 
clamp which would have destroyed them in the open 
may be preserved in this way, and some of the thin 
and free-flowering Teas may continue to produce a 
valuable bloom or two up to nearly Christmas. The 
formation of these late buds may be promoted by 
removing all flower buds in the summer till the end 
of August. 



X 



ROSES UNDER GLASS 



173 



In a cool house like this nothing but protection is 
aimed at. but that is quite sufficient to make the plants 
bloom much earlier than they would in the open 
air. They should not be pruned before January, if 
there are no means of keeping the frost out in 
severe weather, and in the meanwhile the soil should 
be cultivated and cared for in the usual manner. As 
soon as the plants commence growing, however, they 
will require a good deal of attention, and some at least 
of the many troubles of growing Roses under glass will 
be experienced. 

Every outdoor pest has also to be contended against 
under glass, and mildew, red spider, aphides, and thrips 
are even more troublesome than in the open. One of 
the greatest difficulties is the maintaining just the 
right amount of moisture in the air. If there be too 
much,, mildew will probably show itself, and may soon 
make terrible havoc, the tender leaves being much less 
able to resist it than the hard foliage of outdoor Roses 
at Midsummer. Incautious ventilation, to dry the air, 
will probably increase the evil, unless the weather 
outside be very mild. If, on the other hand, there be 
a lack of clue moisture, red spider and thrips are sure 
to appear, and may do as much damage as the mildew. 
To hold the scales evenly in this matter of moisture 
is one of the most important points of successful cul- 
ture under glass, and it seems difficult to frame any 
special rules on the subject save those that are founded 
on experience with a knowledge of the dangers on either 
hand. The uninitiated would probably err in keeping 
the plants in pots too dry : sjiinging them three times 
a day seems a strong measure and likely to lead to the 
danger of mildew, but it is practised by some of the best 
growers during April and May : we are apt to forget, 



174 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



perhaps, that out of doors, in the spring months at 
least, the air, earth, and foliage are almost always 
very damp at night from dew, which much refreshes 
the foliage. 

Insect pests of all kinds, and especially aphides, will 
come whether the house be damp or dry. Prevention 
is better than cure, and sharp eyes constantly looking 
for the first aphis, assisted by ready fingers to catch and 
destroy it at once, form the best protection. I remember, 
on going through a large range of glass houses, where 
different flowers, not Roses, were grown, hearing a boy 
who was evidently employed there addressed as "Mealy." 
On enquiring whether that was really his name or only 
a sobriquet, I was informed that it was his sole business 
to go over all the houses from end to end and look for 
" mealy bug." There had been a great visitation of this 
pest, which is very difficult to exterminate, and con- 
stantly reappears ; but the boy's eye became by training 
and sole use so sharp at its detection, that the houses 
were quite clear of it before long, and " Mealy " got a 
change of occupation, and I hope of name. 

A determination that no aphis shall be seen is a 
saving of trouble in the end, but there are now safe and 
effectual insecticides which may be used in spraying and 
syringing without the disagreeable and dangerous fumi- 
gation with tobacco. But in such cases it should be 
remembered that one or two of the enemy are sure to 
have escaped : a close examination the next day is neces- 
sary, and often a second application may be desirable. 

When the blooms are just ready to open we may take 
a hint from Nature, and, remembering that Roses in the 
open, especially H.P.s, are far better when a dull cooler 
day follows after some hot weather, endeavour to shade 
the plants from the full sun, and keep them, if possible, 



X 



ROSES UNDER GLASS 



175 



a little cooler. If a light blind be used, or the glass 
roof be syringed on the outside with a mixture of whiting 
and milk or some similar clouding material, the flowers 
will be brighter, more lasting, and altogether of better 
quality. 

Ventilation is a most important matter in all forms of 
Rose cultivation under glass : the foliage is very tender, 
and a cold draught is almost sure to bring on mildew. 
It is far better to give no air at all than to open the 
ventilators to an icy wind. Still, Roses must have air, 
and there will be few days when it cannot be admitted on 
the lee side for an hour or even less. Where the plants 
are grown in beds in a cool house, air should be given 
as often as possible, and in increased quantities as the 
season progresses : the final removing of the roof or top 
lights, after the plants have bloomed once, should be 
arrived at by gradual and easy stages, so that as little 
check as possible may be felt when all covering is taken 
away. 

As an early second crop of flowers may be expected, 
and a third from some of the freest sorts, especially of 
Teas, it is necessary that the feeding and cultivation of 
the soil should not be forgotten, or the plants neglected 
because the outdoor Roses claim so much attention. 
Some of the weaker shoots may be thinned out after 
the first blooming, but there should be no pruning 
except in the winter or early spring, for one of the most 
prominent objects in view is to have strong dormant 
buds on well-ripened shoots, to prune back to in the 
winter and to rely upon for the production of good 
vigorous growth for the next season. 

If the plants grown in the cool house be in pots, they 
should either be planted out in the open ground about 
the second week in June, or plunged in coal ashes and 



176 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



mulched with good decomposed manure in an open airy 
place sheltered from strong winds, where the shoots, 
slightly thinned, may ripen and mature. In either case, 
they should be re-potted about October, the crocks being 
removed, and also as much of the surface soil as possible 
without disturbing the bulk of the roots. The compost 
generally used is two-thirds of fibrous but strong loam 
with one-third of thoroughly decomposed old cow 
manure. For the Teas, a little sharp grit and leaf mould 
may be added. 

Roses, if well taken care of, get used to a pot life, 
whether forced or more naturally treated. They will 
get accustomed to an early spring growth, and will rest 
and ripen in the autumn as if it was really their winter. 
They should however be kept rather dry at that time, 
to help the ripening and check undesirable growth. 
After re-potting, they will of course require watering 
and attention that the roots may spread in the fresh 
material provided. By November the pots may be 
taken into the cool house, for pruning in January, and 
to be ready for a warmer house to be forced. 

In forcing Roses, it should be remembered, as Mr. 
William Paul so well explains in The Rose Garden, that 
we change all the seasons for the plants under our care. 
We make winter spring, spring summer, and summer 
autumn, and we must make autumn like winter, in that 
it shall be a season of rest. In making artificial seasons 
we must see that they come gradually as they do in 
Nature, and when we commence to start the plants 
about the New Year, we must remember that spring- 
nights are cold, and spring days are not very warm, so 
that a temperature of from 45° to 50°, or 55° from sun- 
heat, by day, and 38° to 40° or a very little more by 
night, will be quite high enough for a beginning. 




Specimen Standard Pot Rose, Uleich Brunner H.P. 
Exhibited by Paul & Son, of Cheshunt. 



To face p. 176. 



178 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



are not forgotten ; and do not open the house at all to 
let in a wind which is really cold, or in frost or fog. 
Watch for all insects, especially aphis — try how soon you 
can get the first one, and perhaps it will also be the last. 

Clear liquid manure may occasionally be used for the 
feeding ; as the plants increase in vigour, do not make 
the food stronger, but give it gradually a little oftener, 
with always pure rain water, which should never be below 
the temperature of the house, between each dose. Very 
strong ammoniacal liquid manure is kept by some growers 
in troughs on the hotwater pipes, and it is generally 
believed that the plants benefit through their leaves 
from the gases thus diffused in the air. 

For a succession, the simplest plan is to bring in 
fresh plants during the first few weeks, if there is 
only one house. As the Tea Roses, and those that are 
sensitive to wet, begin to show the petals, some care 
should be taken to avoid syringing the blooms, but the 
house must by no means be allowed to become dry ; the 
paths and walls should be damped three times a day in 
sunny weather at 8 A.M., noon, and 5.30 P.M. ; and there 
should be at least an hour or two every day, at the time 
the buds show colour, when air can be given. If there 
is also a cool house, those plants, especially the H.P.s, 
which are nearly opening their blooms, will show better 
and more lasting flowers if they can be removed to it, or 
at all events shaded from bright sun. A slight fall of 
temperature and a little less light are always beneficial 
for the actual blooming, but of course the decrease of 
heat should not be great. 

There is considerable danger in over- watering forced 
Roses in pots when the growth is young, and the flower 
buds are forming, for " damping off " is even a worse mis- 
fortune than mildew. Tapping the pots with a knob- 



ROSES UNDER GLASS 



179 



stick or something similar, to judge by the sound 
whether it be wet or dry, is a well-known device, similar 
to that of the wheel-testers on railways. A clear sharp 
sound indicates dryness and soundness, and a duller one 
damp or fracture. 

After blooming, summer-flowering Roses, if any such 
have been forced, may be removed at once to a cool pit 
or some other shelter and hardened off ; the others may 
be shifted to a cool house, and will give another useful 
crop of flowers in April and May. If there be no other 
house, and warmth is still desired to be kept up in the 
forcing house, some means must be resorted to for 
gradually hardening the plants off till they can be finally 
removed out of doors. Then, instead of all trouble 
being over with the pot plants for the year, comes as 
important a time as any, for next year's growth and 
flowers will depend very much upon the strengthening, 
maturing, and ripening without breaking, of the dormant 
buds at the base of the shoots which have flowered. 

The pots should be plunged out of doors in cocoa 
fibre or some similar material with a bottom of coal 
ashes, and a top dressing in each pot of good decomposed 
manure, in a sheltered position but where they will get 
some sun : and here they should be kept thoroughly 
clean and be by no means neglected, but encouraged as 
much as possible gradually to get into a condition of 
rest, not growing much, but ripening and hardening the 
wood. They must be frequently examined for aphides, 
and should have only sufficient water to keep them in 
health, not so much as to encourage them to grow. If 
they have already bloomed twice, or in any case if it 
does not excite the dormant buds lower down, flower 
buds should be picked off. 

About the end of September or the beginning of 

N 2 



180 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



October they should be re-potted : they must be turned 
out of the old pots, the crocks or charcoal drainage re- 
moved, and also as much of the surface soil as can be 
got away without disturbing the main ball of roots. 
Thoroughly clean pots should be provided, a size larger 
than before if necessary, and the loam in the new 
compost should be as fresh as possible, that from an old 
pasture being the best. The new drainage, whether 
crocks or charcoal, and everything else should be fresh, 
clean and sweet, the plants potted very firmly, and then 
plunged afresh in a similar position out of doors. 
They will require a little more water after the potting 
but if the operation has been delayed till the season 
mentioned, though many fresh roots will form in the, 
new soil, no growth will be made except at the tips of 
the shoots, where it will do no harm. The pots may be 
removed to some cool shelter when there is danger of 
frost or snow, and about Christmas the earliest plants 
may be pruned and brought into the forcing house for 
another season. 

To have Roses in bloom in November and December 
the plants in pots should be so managed and arranged 
as to form a crop of flower-buds out of doors in 
October. Thin-petalled, readily opening sorts should 
be chosen, especially the free-flowering thin Teas, 
such as Safrano ; but some of the freest, semi-double 
H.P.s will also answer the purpose. These should be 
lightly pruned about August, and supplied with more 
water : when the buds have formed in October the plants 
should be left outside as long as possible, and when 
brought into the house ought to be kept quite cool, giving 
plenty of air whenever it is mild enough. Keep the 
house rather dry, and the buds will open at any time by 
the application of a little gentle heat, or even without it. 




Specimen "Dwarf" Pot Rose. Paul Perras, H.B. To face p. 181. 
Exhibited "by Mr. C. Turner, of Slough 



x ROSES UNDER GLASS 181 

Few amateurs will care for the trouble that must be 
incurred to produce the wonderful specimen pot plants 
which are exhibited in May by some of the professional 
growers. These are generally summer Roses, Charles 
Lawson H.C. being a favourite variety for the purpose, 
as this group has the habit of bringing the majority of 
its flowers to perfection at the same time. Such a pot 
plant, eight feet high, seven feet through, and with 
between 300 and 400 expanded full-sized blooms upon 
it at the same time, is a grand sight, but an immense 
amount of labour, care, and time will have been expended 
to bring about such an astonishing result. There is no 
real difficulty in the matter, as the summer Roses grow 
freely after the bloom is over, and patience and care for 
several years in disbudding and tying out the required 
shoots at the proper distances from each other is all 
that is required. I have been told it will often take a 
man three days to tie out and wire one of these big 
plants. The lower shoots are given sufficient lateral direc- 
tion by long ties fastened to wire surrounding the pot : 
and these are pruned first to give them a start over 
the central upright shoots, which would otherwise get 
more than their share of the sap. A pyramid or cone 
is the usual shape aimed at, but sorts of short stiff 
growth are sometimes trained in globular form. One- 
sided plants, having the back flat without growth or 
bloom, look well where the pots have to stand against a 
wall. 

For the pruning and training of Marechal Niel and 
other similar climbing Roses under glass, see Chap. 
VI. (p. 95). In this case, if the roots run in the out- 
side border, little or no syringing will be required, and 
as a consequence there will be less necessity for fresh 
air in cold weather. 



CHAPTER XI 



EXHIBITING 

The instructions hitherto given have been meant 
to show how to grow Roses in the best possible 
manner, so as to produce the finest blooms. There are 
probably few who will go thus thoroughly into the 
matter without desiring sooner or later to put their 
care and labour to the test by showing, in friendly 
rivalry, against their brother Rosarians. The true 
Rose lover may perhaps enjoy and appreciate all the 
winter and spring work simply from his personal devo- 
tion to the Queen of Flowers. But if he visits Rose 
shows he will soon be anxious, I think, to get an 
important judgment upon his own blooms, and see 
what rank his much-cared-for plants can take in the 
world of Roses. 

We may perhaps hear a man say, " Oh ! I don't 
exhibit, but I can assure you I cut some very good 
Roses from plants under such and such a treatment" 
(perhaps from plants on their own roots, from cuttings). 
In such a case, without throwing the smallest doubt 
upon his veracity or hona fides, we are apt to wonder 
what he considers " very good " Roses, and unless his 
blooms have been seen by a competent and impartial 
judge, or, better still, actually tested at a show, the 



CHAP. XI 



EXHIBITING 



183 



assertion loses weight, as his standard of excellence may 
be a low one. 

It is odd to notice how generally those Rose lovers 
who do not exhibit are set against Rose shows, and 
have hardly a good word to say for them. According to 
these critics, the least lovely of Roses are most shown 
and encouraged, the manner of exhibition is faulty, the 
grace and beauty of the flowers are lost, and the public 
taste is generally led astray. Even the accusation of 
ignorance is sometimes laid at the doors of men who 
have made the Rose the study of their lives, though such 
a charge naturally defeats itself. 

It is not unlikely that some good has been done to 
the Rose and to Rose showing by such critics. Any cause 
is purified and strengthened by a little healthy oppo- 
sition : there may be a grain of truth here and there in 
the sweeping charges made, and there is no doubt 
that a mania for exhibition does sometimes tend to the 
destruction of good useful types, and to the setting up 
of unnatural and undesirable ideals. 

It is, perhaps, owing to a reaction against show Roses 
of approved form that there has been of late a good 
deal of interest taken in what are called " garden " 
Roses. Many of these varieties of " the common or 
garden" Rose are merely old sorts which have been 
superseded as florists' flowers, but are still cherished by 
some from sentiment and love of the old-fashioned, or 
memories of childhood. 

An immense number of new Roses are put forth 
every year, and those few only survive which stand the 
test and prove superior in comparison with existing 
varieties. A very small proportion indeed of those thus 
failing in the struggle for existence are retained as garden 
Roses, only those which in colour, habit, growth, or 



184 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



freedom of bloom are superior or very different to those 
already known. Yet most of the modern failures are 
probably much better than the old-fashioned garden 
Roses which still have their worshippers, thus proving 
that sentiment and affection rather than merit cause 
them to be still recognised. 

This is very likely as it should be : it is well to see 
those old Roses of forty years ago, if only to realise and 
be thankful for what we have gained : the grand H.P.s 
and Teas of the present day have certainly no cause to 
be jealous of the old favourites, or to dread comparison 
with them ; and the most inveterate exhibitor will 
rejoice that the Roses which so charmed our fathers are 
still loved and admired by some. 

It will be found that more or less serious objections 
may be urged against all exhibitions, where a " fancy " 
or fashion decrees arbitrary points in the things exhibited 
apart from their useful qualities. Thus it has been 
said of dog shows that breeds notorious for their service 
for sporting or other purposes are not judged or awarded 
prizes for their useful qualities, but for fashionable 
points of colour and shape. And it is also alleged that 
certain varieties of poultry have deteriorated because 
they have been judged by their feathers and other 
useless points to the detriment of their capabilities of 
furnishing plenty of good eggs and chickens. 

On the other hand, fewer complaints are made against 
shows of fat or dairy cattle, because there is no " fancy " 
here, and the animals are usually judged according to 
their market value for use. And if it be said that there 
is a " fancy " in Roses, and that the very term " show- 
Rose " proves it, we must see what are the desirable and 
useful properties in Roses, and whether the system of 
exhibitions favours or hinders them. 



XI 



EXHIBITING 



185 



Beauty and fragrance are the charms of the Rose. It 
may be said beauty is a matter of taste, but, as tastes 
differ, for the purposes of competition ideals must be 
agreed upon and rules laid down. In this matter I think 
the show system of the National Rose Society has laid 
down correct canons of beauty. Unhappily, fragrance 
cannot be accounted for in competition at Rose shows. 
It is plain that among such a number it could not be 
tested, and that rules for estimating the amount and 
quality of fragrance in each bloom could not be satis- 
factorily framed. Individual taste will also differ much 
in the appreciation of it, the scent of Marechal 
Niel, for instance, so highly estimated by some, being 
not a pleasant one to my senses. 

In fact, the judging of fragrance would have to be a 
matter for experts, properly trained, as tea-tasters are, 
for the part. Such persons, who have made the matter 
a special study, tell us that there is no scent of tea 
among what we call Tea Roses, but that some of them, 
like Marechal Niel and Madame Bravy, have a fruity 
odour resembling the raspberry, that Safrano has the 
odour of pinks, the Macartney Rose of apricots, and the 
Dog-Rose of mignonette. They even say that some 
Roses have a disgusting scent, the flowers of certain 
varieties of the Sweet Briar (of all Roses !) developing a 
mixed odour of coriander and a certain horrid parasite 
which shall be nameless ! I gather these and a few 
other items as to Rose scent from a pamphlet called 
PJioclologia, just issued by Mr. J. Ch. Sawer, F.L.S., 
of Brighton, which will be found useful to those 
interested in the scent of Roses, especially from a 
commercial point of view. 

So it is a charge against shows that scentless Roses 
are encouraged, and fragrance, a chief part of the dowry 



186 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CRAP. 



of the Rose, is ignored. But there are really not many 
scentless Roses, and I think fragrance is sometimes 
over-estimated. Would Baroness Rothschild have 
attained no fame without exhibitions ? or is it fragrance 
which lifts the Rose so high above the mignonette and 
the violet ? 

Another common complaint against exhibitions is that 
prizes are given for mere size, and not for beaut}". This is 
not correct : size has its influence, all other things being 
equal, as it rightly should, a Rose which is good in all 
points and large being naturally better than one which 
is equally good but smaller. " But," it ma}' be said, 
" we hear of so-and-so getting the first prize because his 
blooms were ' heavier.' Are Roses judged by weight 
like dead geese ? " The answer to this is that " heavier " 
means greater thickness and solidity of petal : and it 
will not take long- for a voting Rosariams eve to become 
sufficiently educated to prefer the thick fleshy petalled 
and consequently lasting Rose to one that is formed of 
more flimsy material. 

Another complaint will probably be that show-Roses 
are all so formal and regular, and that negligee forms, 
often so truly artistic, are not appreciated. The answer 
to this will be, that Rose shows are held to test cultiva- 
tion, as to who can grow the best Roses, rather than 
decorative powers, as to who can show them the best. 
A large advantage is held, as it is, by those who are 
gifted in the power of display, especially in Tea Roses, 
but if all the merit were in the showing there would 
be small encouragement for the cultivator in his yearly 
round of work. 

And also that as the judging must be accurate and 
by strict rule, so only those formal styles of beauty 
which can be judged by rule can be held admissible. 



XI 



EXHIBITING 



187 



It is very unsatisfactory to enter into any competition 
where you do not know precisely by what rules you will 
be judged. Classes for artistic display in bouquets, 
baskets, and so forth have been attempted by the 
National Rose Society, but for the reasons mentioned 
have not been found generally successful. 

Thus the charges against Rose shows are that they 
encourage size and formal beauty, and care nothing for 
fragrance or artistic elegance. Even if these accusations 
were unanswerable, which I do not think they are, it 
must be considered whether exhibitions have not done 
very much for raising the popularity of the Rose, for the 
increase of varieties not only of show sorts but of 
every description, and for making England the true 
home and centre of the national flower ? 

The large and rapid growth of the trade since Rose 
shows were established would be sufficient answer 
to these questions. Where ten Roses were at that 
time raised by nurserymen and grown by amateurs, a 
thousand would now be a more likely figure : and whereas 
such a thing as making a living out of raising Roses 
alone had not then been heard of in England, and the 
number of Rose nurserymen of note might be counted 
on the fingers, there are now three large and flourishing 
establishments for the growing of Roses in one English 
town, two of which devote themselves solely to this 
object. 

It cannot be doubted that the popularity of the 
Rose, and its greatly increased cultivation, have been 
much fostered by Rose shows and by the National Rose 
Society which encourages them. With a possible 
exception in the matter of fragrance, I do not think 
that exhibitions have fostered any undesirable qualities 
in the flowers : it is true that some modern show 



188 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



varieties are weak and difficult to grow, but they are 
often so lovely that it would have been a great loss 
if they had not been known : and even the few 
scentless forms would, I believe, have found a footing- 
on their merits. 

A young exhibitor should begin by making sure that 
he knows a good Rose when he sees it — that he is well 
acquainted with the types and ideals which authority, 
as represented by the National Rose Society, requires. 
And the first thing to be learnt is that " form," the 
shape of the Rose, is the most important point of all. 

In Latin, " forma," shape, is " beauty," and " formosus," 
shapely, is " beautiful." Form comes before colour as 
drawing before painting. A tumble-down cottage or a 
lopsided spray may be picturesque, but it is only formal 
beauty that is amenable to the strict rules necessary 
in competition. The " tumble-down " style of beauty 
may be admired in the garden, but cannot be admitted 
to judgment at Rose shows. A Rosarian soon becomes 
accustomed to look upon form as the primal beauty of 
the Rose, and to regard colour, though necessary, as a 
secondary consideration. 

The N.R.S. Catalogue contains figures of four types 
of form in exhibition Roses — the imbricated, globular, 
globular with high centre, and the cupped. Originally 
there was another, the flat shape, the type given of 
which was Souvenir de Malmaison. This was rightly 
dropped, as every one must admit that the flat plate-like 
form was inferior. Of existing show-Roses Marguerite 
de St. Am and most nearly perhaps approaches this 
shape, which somewhat detracts from the merits of a 
fine Rose of beautiful colour. 

The cup-shape will probably soon be expunged also, 
as it is difficult to find a true type of it or make a 



EXHIBITING 



189 



definition of its requirements, and in all other types a 
hollow centre is regarded as a disfigurement. The type 
given in the N.R.S. Catalogue is Baroness Rothschild, 
but this cannot be called a cupped form, and if it was 
it would be considered defective. The cupped form is 
unknown among modern Roses because the very oppo- 
site, a high centre, much more beautiful as well as more 
easy to attain, is now looked for. I can only remember 
seeing one perfectly cupped bloom, and that was a 
specimen of Anna de Diesbach H.P., a superseded 
variety. Lcelia H.P. and Coupe d'Hebe H.C. were also 
cupped forms, but very rarely perfect. 

I find, however, that some look on the cup-shape as 
the outward form only, i.e. the profile as viewed from 
the side without reference to the interior. In this case, 
the shape of a chalice would probably be meant, of 
which Marie Verdier H.P. might be taken as a type. 
In favour of this view, some good fellows would maintain 
that a cup is in its best form — " the most perfect phase 
of its possible beauty " — when it is not hollow but " full " 
to the brim : some festive souls might even add that a 
high centre, if possible, would be their ideal. But this 
meaning of the word u cupped " would be different 
from the general one in scientific and botanic nomen- 
clature, where it always I think represents a hollow 
and concave form. Baroness Rothschild does not seem 
to me to represent either of these views. 

Little difference can be found between the types 
called " globular : ' and " globular high centre " in the 
N.R.S. Catalogue, and a great many phases of the 
usual forms of Roses are meant to be included under 
these definitions. Madame Bravy, the nearest ap- 
proach to the " incurved " form of chrysanthemums, 
and in a less degree Violette Bowyer H.P., would be 



190 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE chap. 



types of the true globular form, gradually merging 
through several varieties to the "pointed" shape, so 
much admired, as in Catherine Mermet and Comtesse 
de Nadaillac, Teas, and in General Jacqueminot and 
Fisher Holmes, H.P.s. 

The " imbricated " form, which is of equal estimation 
with the " pointed," implies that the petals are regu- 
larly and thoroughly reflexed upon each other, with a 
" pip " in the centre, like the flowers of a camellia, 
A. K. Williams and Le Havre H.P.s are good examples 
of this shape. There are several gradations also in 
this form, some being half-imbricated, and some with 
the outer petals only reflexed. Madame Cusin 
is a form which would be imbricated, but that the 
petals, instead of lying close, stand apart from each 
other. 

Variations of the above standard forms may be found 
in Madame de Watteville, which might be called the 
" winged " or " butterfly " rose, an addition to the 
pointed shape being found in the long outer petals 
which project as wings : and in Innocente Pirola, where 
the petals radiate away from the centre point in the 
perfect form of the whorl of a shell. But a regular 
shape, with full somewhat high centre, smooth circular 
outline, and perfect arrangement of petals is necessary 
to every form of a good Rose. 

The yearly round of care for Rose plants intended for 
Exhibition purposes will begin with a strict attention to 
the rules of planting, winter protection, and manuring. 
Pruning for exhibition has already been noticed (p. 93), 
and it must be really severe to ensure strong growth. 
In the subsequent thinning of the buds and shoots he 
who would win cups and first prizes must " harden his 
heart," and see that he does not leave too many, 



EXHIBITING 



191 



however strong and healthy they look. Before rubbing 
off the others the selected young shoots should be 
carefully examined to see that they have not been 
injured by frost or grub, as the hopes of the plant will 
now depend on them. 

Even among dwarf cutbacks, stakes should be 
supplied to support all Roses with flexible stems such 
as Earl of Dufferin and Marie Baumann among H.P.s 
and most of the Teas. A sufficient number of bamboos 
or other stakes of various heights should be stored in 
handy corners ready for this purpose. 

As a general rule, all buds but the centre or crown 
bud should be removed as soon as possible, and when 
the wood buds push, further down the stem, these also 
should be rubbed out. A quill toothpick or knife point 
is sometimes used for the removal of the tiny buds as 
soon as they can be distinguished, but finger and thumb 
will soon get expert at the Avork and do it mechanically. 

Be careful about delegating this operation to inex- 
perienced hands. I remember a trade exhibitor telling 
me that he once thought he would employ some women 
at it. " I want you," said he to them, suiting the 
action to the word by taking the cluster at the end of 
a shoot and rapidly removing all but the centre bud, 
" to take off all these buds like this." They set to 
work with a will, and when he came back some time 
afterwards to see how they were getting on, not a single 
bud of any description remained on the rows which 
they had devastated. 

The rule has its exceptions : there are certain Roses 
which are apt to come coarse, or too full, so as to be too 
long in opening if they are over freely supplied with sap. 
The treatment in these cases must be modified, the 
small buds being gradually destroyed, or one or more 



192 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



left on till the end. Only experience, a good knowledge 
of the habit of the variety, and a regard to the strength 
and number of shoots on each plant and the character 
of the weather can guide the grower in this most 
needful regulation of sap supply. If the season be 
hot and dry more buds may be taken away, as the Roses 
will open easier and the natural supply of sap will be 
less and more quickly assimilated. 

The same caution must be exercised with maiden 
plants : some of the weakly growers will give the best 
blooms if only a single stem with one bud on it be left. 
But many would come coarse or deformed under such 
treatment : and in these cases if there be only one 
maiden shoot, one or two, according to the weather, 
of the lower wood buds should be allowed to 
grow out, and they may form perhaps almost as good 
blooms as the older one. 

The central bud should be carefully examined before 
it is entrusted alone with the sole responsibility of the 
shoot. Any insect perforation however small, or any 
unusual appearance or sign of deformity, should cause 
the dethronement of the crown bud at once, and the 
election of the most perfect of its two or three com- 
panions in its place, Even with the utmost vigilance 
many a fine bud will be tended and cared for and only 
found to be malformed at the very last when it should 
be in perfection and ready for show. 

Where there is still a choice of buds later on when 
the first signs of colour are visible, signs of malformation 
may often be detected in an uneven appearance of the 
green calyx enclosing the petals. If this is irregularly 
disposed so that more colour shows on one side of the 
bud than the other there is a strong probability of 
there being a deformed arrangement of the petals, 



XI 



EXHIBITING 



193 



leading to the bloom being " divided " or " quartered," 
a very serious detriment to the shape of many of the 
finest blooms. There is no remedy: another bud, 
if possible, should be chosen in its place. An exception 
must be made in the case of Madame de Watteville, 
whose buds are curiously wrinkled to enclose the great 
wing petals. 

Before the buds begin to open measures must be 
taken to shelter the delicate blooms from rain and 
sometimes from sun. Almost all the Teas and certain 
of the H.P.s are liable to a good deal of injury from 
rain and sometimes even from heavy dews. Of the 
many kinds of protectors which have been tried, from 
old umbrellas to strawberry punnets and tin or glass 
shades, there are probably none better than the cones 
made of Willesden waterproof paper which are now 
manufactured and sold in large quantities. 

My stepfather, the Rev. C. Ward, of Maulden Rectory, 
Beds, an excellent florist who died in 1879, was I 
believe the first to use this material for the purpose in 
the shape of cones. I introduced the subject to the 
trade, but I have still one made by Mr. Ward, of as 
good material and shape as those now turned out, 
though considerable improvements have been invented 
in the mode of suspension and fastening. In placing 
the protector over a bud great pains should be taken to 
see that both are firm and not likely to be moved by 
the wind. Severe gusts often accompany thunder- 
storms, the protectors offer a good deal of resisting 
surface, and the bud if chafed while it be wet is sure 
to be spoiled. 

The protectors should be raised or removed when 
the rain is over, particularly if the bud is close to the 
ground, as they check the evaporation from the wet 

o 



194 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



soil and keep the bud in a damp state. Pendulous 
Teas on dwarfs are apt to be splashed with mud in 
heavy showers, and this forms an additional recom- 
mendation for standards for such varieties ; no pro- 
tection short of a universal mulch is much good, but 
when all Roses are wet, simply dipping a splashed Tea 
face downwards a time or two in a pail of clear water 
has often made it look at least as well as its fellows. 

I believe there are very few Eoses which are benefited 
by being shaded from the sun, except to preserve the 
colour. Exposure to the sun undoubtedly takes the 
depth of tint from almost all Teas, making them paler : 
but still they rejoice in the sun, and it is only in a very 
hot and dry season that we can afford to keep it from 
them. There seems to be little effect in shading to 
jDrevent the ' burning 5 or browning of the petals of 
dark H.P.s. 

Papering the buds, that is, wrapping them while yet 
undeveloped in cones of white paper, has sometimes a 
very good effect with the pointed forms of Teas, making 
the bud grow longer and preserving the richness of 
colour. It only answers in quite dry weather ; if rain 
comes, the paper must all be removed at once or the 
Roses will commence to rot. 

Boxes of the approved shape and size, with Foster's 
tubes and wire supports, can now be readily purchased, 
saving much trouble with the village carpenter. 
Strength must not be sacrificed to lightness, as heavy 
men will not scruple to stand on them in railway or 
horse vans. The corners should be bound with iron, 
and there should be some readily distinguishable mark 
on the lid of each, a white bar or star or something of 
that sort, so that each man can count his own boxes in 
transit, or find his own lids easily at the end of the show. 



XI 



EXHIBITING 



195 



They should all be made exactly alike, so that lids 
and trays are interchangeable. Spare trays pierced for 
trebles should be provided, and a large deep box for 
spare blooms is very useful but unwieldy. The boxes 
all ought to be of the same size, that is, there ought to 
be a regulation size for 12s and another for 24s and 
so on, but as long as there is not, and others take 
advantage of the fact, smaller boxes with the tubes set 
closer together should be provided for Teas and occasions 
when the blooms are small. Setting the Roses closer 
together somewhat conceals their want of size. 

The providing a sufficient quantity of good moss for 
placing on the trays between the tubes is sometimes a 
difficulty when there are many boxes to be prepared. 
The ordinary moss of hedge-row banks is generally 
used, but it is sometimes difficult to find in a gravelly 
district. The north side of a clayey railway embank- 
ment is generally a good place. It should be taken up 
cautiously so that it may be placed root downwards 
and not half of it upside down, in the boxes, and will 
require the weeds and grass to be picked from it. 

A much more effective moss is that which grows on 
old thatch or even roof-tiles, but it is apt to lose colour. 
If a water-mill or lock gates be in the neighbourhood, 
there is often delightfully fresh moss to be found on 
the old walls near the water. These sorts have a far 
more velvety appearance than the first kind mentioned, 
which sometimes looks little better than badly made 
hay. 

The trays when trimmed with moss should be 
watered occasionally and kept in the shade. But a 
good overhauling is desirable before a night journey. 
In one very dry season my mossed boxes had been kept 
in the shade and duly watered, with the result that 

o 2 



196 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



two huge slugs each as big as my thumb came 
attracted by the damp, and concealed themselves either 
in the moss or underneath the trays. It was either in 
the night journey or during the very early hours of 
rest at the Crystal Palace that one of these brutes 
crawled out and ate away just the top of my very best 
H.P., a large specimen of Her Majesty. 

Boxes and all are ready — to-morrow is the day of 
the show — when shall we cut the blooms ? The 
distance and the convenience of trains will almost 
answer the question, for a start at three or four o'clock in 
the afternoon is by no means unusual for those who live 
at a distance from main lines, and want to show on the 
other side of the country. 

It used to be always laid down that the morning of 
the show is the time to cut, and that those who are 
near enough at hand to do this are at an advantage. 
Modern instances, and especially I think the superior 
staying power of modern Roses, have considerably 
modified this view. If the show is within driving 
distance one would naturally cut in the morning, but 
very small advantage, if any, must be expected over 
those who have come from a distance and had to cut 
over-night. 

I used often to get up to cut very early in the morning, 
an hour or more before the mowers made their appear- 
ance in the neighbouring hayfield, but have long ago 
come to the conclusion that unless one can cut after 
six o'clock in the morning it is even better to do it the 
evening before. 

I soon noticed that about six o'clock a change came 
over the Roses, every one taking, so to speak, his day's 
step forward, and that many fine lasting blooms altered 
and aged as much in half-an-hour about that time, 



XI 



EXHIBITING 



197 



whether cut or not, as they would in the whole of the 
long summer day to follow. So, if it is possible to cut 
after that hour and yet be in time, we may be glad to 
do so, and can choose blooms a stage in advance of those 
we should have cut over-night. But I believe it to be 
just as well and perhaps better as getting them in 
safety before a chance shower, to cut at from four to 
seven o'clock the evening before, rather than at four or 
five o'clock in the morning. 

Begin in good time : it is better to start at two or 
three o'clock in the afternoon, having cold water in the 
tubes and the boxes in deep shade, than to be hurried 
at the last. There are several H.P.s too, Horace Ver- 
net and Le Havre for instance, which shut up their 
petals towards night, and though they will open all right 
next day it is difficult to choose the best specimens 
when they are closed. 

Roses should always be cut with strong sharp scissors ; 
if at any time a stranger is allowed to cut blooms from 
your plants, forbid the use of a knife or damage by the 
breaking of a shoot is sure to be done. 

Perhaps it is best to commence with the Teas, as these 
are most lasting, and require longer time for selection. 
A large number of them hang their heads down, and 
a great many must be lifted and examined, while among 
the H.P.s few are so pendulous as Marie Baumann and 
Earl of Dufferin. Be sure that the examination and 
selection is thorough : I have gone off once or twice at 
least without a good Tea Rose, overlooked because it was 
hidden under some protection. 

Cut the stems long enough : they must be set up high 
when they are shown, and it is very annoying to find 
that a good bloom must be set lower than the others to 
keep it in the water. It is a shock for a precious little 



198 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



plant of Comtesse de Nadaillac to cut away so much 
wood, but this is the hour of the Rose's trial and would- 
be triumph, and now if ever it must be prepared to 
make a sacrifice. 

Some expert exhibitors do little arranging, choosing, 
or setting up at the time of cutting, but, putting 
a sufficient quantity of their best blooms into the 
tubes, leave all that for the place of exhibition. A 
beginner, however, had better wire and set up his best 
Roses at once as he cuts them, taking others for spares 
and arranging them all afresh at the show. 

Wiring with Foster's supports, like all mechanical 
operations, should be learnt by watching an old hand ; 
it is a very different business now to what it used to be 
when we had to tie the stems in two or three places to 
a small stick or simple straight wire. Plenty of spare 
supports should be taken to save time in undoing dis- 
carded blooms at the show. 

A beginner should label each bloom as he brings it 
in, and it will always save time even with those who 
know the Roses well. The printed labels look nice — at 
first — and are convenient if you can always keep them 
arranged so as to find at once the one you want. But 
they very soon get dirty, especially if not removed before 
the home journeys, and many find the writing each name 
in pencil on blank labels as required the shortest and 
most handy in the end. But please write plainly. 

In cutting the day before a show, the state of the 
weather must be considered. If a very long journey 
and a hot night are in store, allowance must be made 
for rather more than one day's age in the Rose ; but for a 
short journey and a cool night, some of the fullest Roses 
and those with the thickest petals may be cut almost 
as it is hoped to show them. Nothing but experience 



XI 



EXHIBITING 



199 



can aid the judgment in this case. If there is plenty of 
choice take another bloom of the same variety not so 
far advanced, and three times out of four the younger 
bloom will be found the best when the time comes. 

Most Roses are at their best when about three-quarters 
open, but some will stand the full exposure of their 
charms, and thin-petalled sorts should be shown when 
not more than half open. It is a good plan to tie up 
the petals of such sorts to prevent their opening too 
quickly, and most of the pointed varieties are safer if 
thus tied. 

Soft German wool should be used, and the outer row 
of petals being left free, the point or spike of the bloom 
should be firmly tied round sufficiently low to prevent 
its slipping. The form of knot should be the first half 
of an ordinary knot, only with two turns instead of one : 
an inch or two of ends should be left, and then the 
advantages are, that though the knot will not slip it can 
always be tightened by pulling the ends, and is very 
readily removed. At the place of show it will often be 
advisable, if the bloom upon examination seems hardly 
trustworthy, to tie it up again and only remove it at the 
last moment. 

Teas are much more lasting when cut than H.P.s 
especially if they be really good blooms of first-class 
sorts. On one occasion I showed a specimen of Com- 
tesse de Nadaillac at three separate shows ; on the 
first occasion it won the distinction as best Tea, on 
the second the medal as best Rose, and the stand in 
which it was exhibited won first prize at the third show. 
On another occasion I showed twelve Teas unsuccess- 
fully at one show : the same blooms with the exception 
of two or three were shown two days later at another 
place where the competition was quite as severe, and 



200 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



won first prize. Much rain had fallen in the two days, 
and freshly cut Teas were spoiled. 

In the hot season of 1893, I cut a bloom of Marie 
van Houtte on the Monday and showed it well in my 
winning stand at the Crystal Palace on the Saturday. 
It was kept for three days in a dark and nearly air- 
tight cellar, and for two days more in another cellar 
with a little light. A few drops of spirit of camphor 
were added to the water in which it stood, but I am 
doubtful if this has much good effect. I think the 
equable temperature of a dry cellar has a good effect in 
preserving the blooms, but they will probably lose 
colour. 

If rain is feared, and efficient protection is not to be 
had, the Teas should be cut in good time, even though 
the buds be hardly opened enough. It may be noticed 
that Marechal Niel improves in colour after being cut 
and a really fine bloom may often be better the second 
or even the third day, if it be dry when gathered. 

If the boxes remain at home during the night, it is 
best, especially if the Roses are not dry, to give some 
air by propping up the lids a little way, so as to 
exclude chance trespassers in the way of cats and the 
like. Still this admits of the entry of slugs or earwigs, and 
as we should think little of keeping the boxes entirely 
closed through a night's journey, it is not necessary. 
The lids should be securely fastened Avhen they are 
shut down for travelling, care having been taken that 
the Roses are sufficiently low in the tubes to prevent the 
roofs of the lids touching them, but only those perfect 
persons, who never even in a hurry leave their keys at 
home, should use locks. 

Kailway porters are now becoming used to the sight 
of Rose-boxes, and recognise that " something belongs 



XI 



EXHIBITING 



201 



to" the careful handling of them, to use a Suffolk 
expression. But personal supervision at all times 
when they are moved is still very desirable, and the 
legend " Flowers in water, this side up, with care " is 
not much heeded if there is no one prominently visible 
from whom a tip may be expected. 

On one occasion Mr. Burrell of Cambridge and I were 
travelling together by night to the Northern Provincial 
Show of the National Rose Society. At a certain station 
we had to change, and after keeping guard over our 
pile of boxes for a while, we thought, as all seemed 
quiet, we might leave them for a little. We were not 
absent more than five minutes, but on our return all 
the boxes had absolutely disappeared. It was not till 
just as our train was starting that we were assured, and 
satisfied ourselves by the dim light of a lamp, that our 
boxes were all in the van. We thought it was all right, 
but my pet twenty-four, on which I had spent a great 
deal of trouble, travelled the whole of the rest of its 
journey actually upside down. My companion, who had 
arranged to take care of the boxes on our arrival during 
the small portion of night that remained, discovered 
the mishap soon after I had left him : and with a kind- 
ness I shall not readily forget did his best to restore 
order, and comfort, and cleanliness to the poor Roses with 
such success that they gained a third prize. 

At another of the N.R.S. Northern shows I was 
going to show " six new Roses." A six box is, or at 
least mine was, nearly square, but that does not seem a 
legitimate reason why a porter should have rolled that 
poor box out of the van just as if it was a cheese. 
Though my remonstrance was meant to be severe, 
the man hoped I should " remember him," and I have 
done so. 



202 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



Truly much depends upon the setting up and final 
arrangement of the Roses at the place of exhibition, 
and, in Teas especially, a man who shows his Roses well 
will often beat a worse performer even though the latter 
have better raw material. An old Mend and rival, 
who by his splendid showing had often beaten me 
when I felt my blooms were naturally the finer, once 
most good naturedly set up my Teas as well as his own 
at the Crystal Palace, though we were showing in the 
same class. Poetical justice was for once triumphant, 
for we came out equal first. 

Though perhaps a pity, it is inevitable that the art 
of display should have this advantage : it would never 
do for the judges to pull the blooms about and see 
what they are capable of. So the beginner must learn 
how to show his Roses to the best effect in the first 
place by watching others ; and he will find that, next 
to experience, plenty of patience with a good allowance 
of time is the principal requisite. 

Little care will be needed with those blooms that are 
just right and likely to remain right when they meet 
the eyes of the judges. But some, though still perfect, 
may give cause for anxiety lest they should open too 
far and show an eye, and weak blooms of thin varieties 
will sometimes do this very soon in a hot tent. If the 
shape will admit of it they had better be tied up for 
the present as before recommended, and tested again at 
the last. But the judges may be delayed and a younger 
though smaller bloom is generally the safest. An old 
hand by keeping the points of his Roses tied up till the 
last minute will sometimes present for judgment fine- 
shaped perfect blooms which two or three hours later 
have opened and lost then form and beauty. It may 
be matter of regret that this can be done, but some 



XI 



EXHIBITING 



203 



risk is run, and ingenuity and boldness, provided that 
all is fair, should have their chance of reward. 

Some blooms will be found hardly more than buds, 
and these will require a little assistance to make them 
open further. The National Rose Society was quite 
right in framing rules against "dressing" when this took 
the form of forcibly bending down the outer petals by 
creasing them. This gives quite a different appearance 
and shape to the Rose. Yet a little assistance, by re- 
moving short malformed or discoloured outer petals, and 
by gently pressing back at the base the next row is a 
legitimate accessory of the art of exhibiting. 

The handle of a budding knife was the instrument 
formerly used for opening a bloom, and I have seen a 
pencil do wonders in experienced hands ; still a camel's 
hair pencil of fair size is the best thing to use, for it 
is soft and does no injury to the petals and may be 
utilised for the removal of specks of dirt, aphides or 
thrips. Work patiently away at the outer row of 
petals only, without creasing them down : it is no use 
meddling much with the inner rows, except by a sharp 
puff or two from the lips which will sometimes im- 
prove matters somewhat. 

Some sorts cannot be opened at a show, Reynolds 
Hole for instance ; however much the petals be pressed 
back, nothing short of creasing or mechanical obstruction 
will prevent them from closing up again. I remember 
a case where a fine-looking bloom of this variety was 
being examined by the judges as the most likely candidate 
for the silver medal for best H. P. The owner of the 
Rose at the door of the tent was anxiously watching the 
movements of the arbiters, and was horrified to see one 
of them pull the bloom downwards through his lightly 
enclosing hand. Click I the petals, released from the 



204 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



laborious mechanical opening, sprang back to their 
places, and Rose and owner were " shut up " simultane- 
ously ! 

Other Roses, of the " thin " type, like Thomas 
Mills, are pretty sure to open well enough, and due 
regard will have been paid to this at the time of cutting, 
as such sorts should be taken to the show in an earlier 
stage of their development than the very stout and 
lasting ones like Reynolds Hole or Horace Vernet. 
Great attention should also be paid to the weather and 
the place : a hot tent forces on Roses wonderfully, but 
it is generally fairly cool in the Crystal Palace. 

It seems hardly necessary to say that the setting up 
and arrangement at the show should be in a cool and 
shady place, but even this rule may have an exception. 
On one occasion I cut my blooms for a celebrated 
southern show in a very undeveloped condition, expecting 
that my assistant who was to go with them, as I was 
unable to do so, would have a hot time for his night's 
journey. The weather unexpectedly changed, the night 
proving very cool, and when he arrived at the place of 
exhibition, he found to his dismay that my Roses were 
not nearly open enough, and that they made no show at 
all by the side of the developed blooms against which 
he had to contend. Being a plucky man of resource, he 
resolved on an unusual experiment ; he uncovered the 
boxes, and set them to stand for a considerable time in 
the full glare of the sun. Whether the others took him 
for a lunatic or an ignorant novice I do not know ; but I 
do know that he brought me back the first prize. 

In several of the handbooks of instruction on how to 
show Roses the exhibitor is warned to be careful how he 
arranges them as to colour for general effect. Of course 
this is worth doing, if it means arranging all the best 



EXHIBITING 



205 



blooms thus, but under no circumstances should a light 
or dark bloom be introduced for the sake of colour if it 
is not worthy in itself. I am bound to say that it is 
very rarely that judges pay any heed to the arrangement : 
they look at the merits of the blooms themselves and a 
preponderance of dark over light flowers or vice versa 
would have usually no effect with them. Successful 
arrangement is only taken into consideration where rival 
stands are very nearly equal in the merits of the indi- 
vidual blooms. 

There will seldom be any need to look over the stand 
at the last to see if there are any duplicates, i.e., two of 
the same sort, if care has been exercised in this respect 
from the beginning, and no Rose is introduced without 
being sure about it. But a bloom may sometimes be 
accidentally changed without altering the label, so these 
should be run over to see that they are right. The 
National Rose Society authorities are lenient in this 
matter, provided there be no duplicates, but country 
judges are sometimes more strict. 

There is room for a good deal of legitimate manoeuvr- 
ing and generalship in the last hour or so before the 
judges enter. If a man, who has entered in several 
classes and is only moderately strong, divides his 
best specimens among his several stands, he will prob- 
ably get no first prize and runs considerable risk of 
being out of it altogether. He should concentrate his 
strength on one or at most two classes, take a critical 
survey of his rivals' blooms, and show pluck or dis- 
cretion as the case may be in selecting the best class in 
which to put all his finest flowers. 

On one occasion, late in the season when it was not 
likely that there would be more than one or two serious 
rivals, I sent my assistant (being unable to go myself) 



200 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



to a large show, with stands of thirty-six and twenty- 
four. He found one rival only of any note, but he was 
Mr. X. and to beat him just then required the best 
amateur Roses in the kingdom. My man returned with 
two seconds, saying triumphantly, " I ran Mr. X. close : 
for he came and looked at me five times." I could not 
help replying, " If you had followed his tactics and gone 
and looked at him, you might very likely have got first 
for the twenty-four." By dividing his forces my man 
was beaten in both classes : the expert hand came and 
looked so often to satisfy himself there was no concen- 
tration of strength requiring a similar move on his 
part. 

No personal fancies, or likes and dislikes of certain 
Roses, should be entertained by the man who wishes to 
be successful. Some have an antipathy to the appear- 
ance of the striped Pride of Reigate : and I have heard 
" Oh, I don't like that rose " of such sorts as Marguerite 
de St. Amand and Souvenir d'un Ami. It is all very 
well for such as can afford it, but few can : and it is to 
be remembered that the judges will not let their own 
personal predilections have any weight in deciding on 
the merits of each Rose. 

Judging. — Nothing is more surprising to exhibitors 
of dogs, poultry, &c, than to hear that at all National 
Rose Shows the judges are appointed from those who are 
actually exhibiting at that very show. Of course, no one 
judges in the class in which his own stands are, and as 
a matter of fact probably no exhibitor would have it 
otherwise than it is. Many judges are required at a 
large show, and even with much subdivision they have 
often as much or more than they can do to get through 
their task in the hour : and besides this, eyes thoroughly 
accustomed to the appearance of Roses as shown are 



XI 



EXHIBITING 



207 



required to recognise the different varieties, and note 
subtle distinctions of merit. A year or two's absence 
from Roses and Rose shows would probably seriously 
impair a man's efficiency as a judge. 

Judging is performed by the rules of the National 
Rose Society according to the form, size, and brightness 
of each bloom which should be at the time " in its most 
perfect phase of possible beauty." A general survey of 
the class should first be taken, for it may be that the 
case is clear and beyond a doubt. Where the stands 
are of large numbers — thirty-six and upwards — there 
should be another survey a little way off to judge better 
by comparison, and to give at all events an idea of which 
stands are "out of it," and which seem to be more 
nearly equal. 

Those stands about which there is any doubt should 
now be " pointed," i.e., judged by points. Minus one, 
nought, one, two, three, or in rare cases four points 
should be awarded to each bloom according to merit, 
one of the judges suggesting the number of points to 
each, the others assenting or dissenting, and one noting 
the number of points totalled. 

The first thing to be done is to choose and agree 
upon a certain rose worth three points to serve as a 
standard. This is important : being useful not only for 
reference in cases of disagreement, but also in the large 
classes of forty-eight or seventy-two to prevent the 
standard becoming insensibly depreciated. Pointing 
generally begins with the back row and from left to 
right : boxes are often set up in the same order, and the 
exhibitor would naturally put his worst blooms in last, 
which would therefore be at the right hand of the lower 
row. At any rate considerably smaller and weaker 
blooms will generally be found in the front row, and the 



/ 



208 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



judges must take care that their standard remains 
unaltered ; the fall in the scale is often very gradual, 
but a frequent reference to the chosen standard, which 
one of the judges might carry in its tube, will prevent 
any lowering or raising of the ideal. 

In cases of equality, or when in a large class only a 
point or two of difference is found between two stands, 
it is well to " point " them over again, beginning at the 
other end of each. If still there is little difference, 
taking the boxes down and holding them with their 
long sides touching, in closer juxtaposition, will some- 
times throw additional light on the matter. Viewing 
them at a little distance may sometimes give another 
point of comparison ; and if the verdict should still be 
doubtful, arrangement, neatness, foliage and even moss 
may help to turn the scale. In such extreme cases, 
however, it is better to judge them as equal where the 
prizes are money and can be divided : if a cup be in 
question, of course one must be declared the winner. 

I went once some little distance to a show solely as 
judge, there being no class suited to me. The prize 
was a cup for forty-eight, and there was no second or 
other prize whatever. I was the only judge, and the 
exhibitors were two noted rival nurserymen of the very 
first calibre. I was shut up quite alone in the tent, 
and proceeded to my task with cheerfulness, not know- 
ing what was in store for me. I " pointed " each bloom 
with great pains, and took care not to add up the total 
of the first stand till I had done the other, lest I should 
be insensibly influenced. To my horror they came out 
exactly equal. I went through them again from the other 
end and this time I did get about one and a half points' 
difference, but still felt that the second judgment was 
not quite so trustworthy, as I might be unconsciously 



XI 



EXHIBITING 



209 



anxious to find a difference. I compared them in every 
way I knew, but still could make hardly more than a 
point between them, if so much. No difference was to 
be found in arrangement. I knew who the exhibitors 
were as I had seen them, but I did not the least know 
which stand belonged to each. Their style was the 
same as they had been brought up in the same school, 
and they were well known as at that time of very nearly 
equal strength. Yet one must have the cup and the 
other get no prize at all. In my perplexity I mounted 
on the central table in the tent, and took a careful 
bird's-eye view, holding on by the pole. This confirmed 
me in my previous idea that there was the slight shade 
of difference that I had noticed at my second attempt : 
I gave my judgment accordingly, and was most 
sincerely pleased when I found the loser was quite 
satisfied. 

Another very equal case was in a class for seventy- two 
at a Northern show. I had the proper number of two 
coadjutors this time, one being a very experienced and 
able Rosarian, and the other a local man who was 
generally discreetly silent. We pointed through both 
the best stands without any disagreement except in the 
case of one bloom where I was for three points and 
my experienced friend for one only. The third judge 
opened his mouth for the first and only time, and gave 
his voice against me. That decided the principal prize 
of the show, for we found only one point of difference 
between the two stands of seventy-two each, and if my 
view of that one bloom had been acted on, the other 
seventy-two would have won by one point. 

The silent judge played his part and did what was 
required of him. He did not act, I hope, or give his 
judgment from the same motive that influenced one at 

p 



210 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. XI 



a village cottagers' show. There were three judges for 
the fruit and vegetables &c. — Mr. A, the head gardener 
from the big house — and Messrs. B and C, gardeners in 
humbler establishments. Mr. A, by right of his posi- 
tion, took the matter in hand and distributed the 
awards, the others humbly assenting in silence. Pre- 
sently C, perhaps thinking it was better, if only as 
a matter of form, to assert himself a little, suggested a 
small point of disagreement. The matter was promptly 
referred to B, and he decided the question by saying, 
" Oh, I always goes with Mr. A ! " It was all right, for 
Mr. A was a good judge, but it was plain that, unless 
for ornament, B and C might as well have been at 
home. 



CHAPTER XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 

On looking over a good collection of Roses a keen 
observer, even if he be unlearned in their culture, cannot 
fail to be struck with the difference observable in what 
is called the " habit " of each sort, for there is almost 
endless variety in wood, leaves, thorns, strength, and 
manner of growth, apart from the blooms themselves. 
He would also probably notice a good many of what he 
would call " red " Roses, very much alike to his untrained 
eyes in general appearance, and he might wonder how 
they could all be distinguished apart. But as a good 
shepherd can tell every member of a large flock of 
sheep by a diligent study of their faces, and an English 
apple, or even apple-tree without its leaves, can be cor- 
rectly named by some clever pomologists, so a fairly 
representative bloom of any Rose can be distinguished 
by a thoroughly expert Rosarian. 

Descriptions of the different varieties are to be 
found in the catalogues issued by nurserymen, and 
many of these are now fairly full and accurate. The 
colour, naturally enough, occupies the principal part of 
the descriptions : but the different shades, especially of 
Teas, are very difficult to express to ordinary readers in 
language that they will clearly understand, for some are 

p 2 



212 



THE BOOK OF THE HOSE 



CHAP. 



extremely variable in their tints, and others come much 
fuller in colour when grown strongly. 

It is not every one who is, without studying the 
matter, well conversant with the different tints expressed 
in the terms frequently used. Among these may be 
found — ivory, cream, lemon, chrome, straw, canary, 
sulphur, salmon, nankeen, saffron, apricot, fawn, buff, 
copper, bronze, blush, flesh, peach, rose, cerise, carmine, 
coral, cherry, currant, madder, vermilion, scarlet, lake, 
lilac, plum, violet, magenta, claret, maroon, and amaranth. 
It requires not only a good eye for colour, but also a 
certain amount of training, for an ordinary man to dis- 
tinguish accurately between these shades. I confess 
that some of them beat me, and that even the first two 
on the list, ivory and cream, as seen in Roses, would 
present very slight distinctions to my eyes. 

A good many of the Tea Roses, especially the light 
yellows, come practically, if not pure, white, when 
exposed to strong and continued sun ; and as these 
are generally credited as to colour with the first 
descriptions of the raisers as seen under glass, there is 
sometimes a little disappointment with the tints as 
seen out of doors. Thus Devoniensis, Edith Gifford, 
and Innocente Pirola used to be described without an}^ 
mention of the word £ white,' which must seem very 
strange to those Avho know the Roses. 

Such good old colour-words as white, yellow, pink, 
red, scarlet, and crimson are my strongholds, and in the 
following catalogue I shall mostly leave the descriptions 
of colour to be found in the trade-lists, the best of 
which are carefully compiled from a long and wide- 
spread knowledge of the various sorts, and a study and 
comparison of the different shades. My endeavour 
will be to supplement these descriptions with other 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



213 



matters that the purchaser and chooser would like to 
know, as an addition to and commentary upon 
published catalogues. 

For instance, the novice student of these seductive 
pamphlets will only require a little knowledge of 
human nature to enable him to take a fair discount off 
the description given by the raiser himself of any one 
sort : and he will find it advantageous to be acquainted 
with some slight vagaries in catalogue-English which 
custom has sanctioned. In this language il medium- 
sized " means " small," and " pretty " generally implies 
the same. In growth, " moderate " means " weakly," 
" free " describes a plant which is rather weakly but 
branching, and " vigorous " stands for ordinary growth. 
" A good pot Rose " might very likely mean that it 
would not stand any bad weather out of doors, a 
" nearly full " one shows an eye, and we should probably 
be doing no injustice in supposing that a Rose which is 
" good when caught right " is bad as a rule. 

It has become a matter pretty generally known how 
unwise it is for a beginner to select his sorts from those 
blooms which take his fancy at an exhibition : and 
there are drawbacks to the cultivation of a good many 
of the show varieties, which we cannot expect to find 
noted in catalogues for sale. These demerits and 
bad habits of certain Roses I want to point out 
as well as their good qualities, as they are of the 
utmost importance to those who wish to choose their 
sorts, and have only trade catalogues and the flowers 
to be seen at shows to go by. For, among Roses, there 
are a great many " little ways " belonging to the 
different tribes, families, and individual varieties, and 
many an otherwise excellent sort has a nasty habit of 
doing this or that or the other which just prevents its 
being as good as it might be. 



214 THE BOOK OF THE ROSE chap. 

A variety may be faulty as a plant, having an 
unhealthy constitution, weakness of growth, deficiency 
of foliage, a special tendency to mildew or orange 
fungus, or a lack of freedom of bloom, or of good 
qualities in the autumn. And if the plant is all that 
can be desired, there may be serious demerits in the 
flowers as a rule, however good an occasional specimen 
may be. Among such faults may be — a liability to be 
stained, gummed or rotted by rain, or to " burn," that 
is, turn brown, in hot weather, or to come badly shaped, 
malformed, quartered or divided, or to have some de- 
ficiency in stoutness and smoothness of petal, fulness 
of centre, accuracy of form, or brightness of colour. 

The Teas have a special fault in that some of them 
will not bring blooms to full perfection when grown as 
dwarf plants, and they are also peculiarly liable to be 
injured by rain; but, on the other hand, they are some- 
what less injured by mildew and completely free from 
orange fungus. Besides these general faults, many Roses 
have private habits, either good or bad (generally bad !) 
of their own. It is most desirable that these should be 
known, but it should be added that situation, climate, 
soil, and culture have much effect upon the manners 
and customs, sometimes to a very striking extent. 

It is quite common to hear one amateur say of a 
certain variety that it is useless with him — that it will 
not grow, or the blooms come to no good — while another 
answers that he finds it all he could wish in growth 
and flower. After a fair trial, it is far better to give 
up a Rose that does not answer : there are plenty of 
different sorts and many new ones each year, and I 
should strongly advise a vigorous weeding out every 
autumn of all those which have been thoroughly tried 
and found wanting. 

Usually it takes two or three years' trial at least of a 




Rose Faults. A "divided" Rose. 



To face p. 214. 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



215 



new sort to find out its own particular manners : so 
that, unfortunately, I cannot give a reliable account of 
the newer Roses, of which Rosarians of standing who 
are exhibitors will most wish to hear. Not only that, 
but all lists and catalogues get out of date before very 
long, the least valuable sorts being superseded as 
others, more perfect in their especial line, come into 
commerce. 

In preparing the following list, I have confined myself 
mainly to the N.R.S. Catalogue, with some additions 
and omissions : and, however fleeting and ephemeral lists 
and selections may be, a great many are here mentioned 
which are not likely to go out of date for some time, 
and whose manners and customs are now thoroughly 
established. I have included Hybrid Teas and Bourbon 
Perpetuals in the large well-known class of H.P.s. 



HYBRID PERPETUALS 

Ahcl Carridre (Verdier, 1875). — Of uncertain growth. 
Often makes strong secondary shoots, }^et refuses to 
grow strongly in the s}3ring. Foliage second-rate, and 
rather liable to mildew and orange fungus. The blooms 
often " come " bad : not " divided," but malformed and 
" anyhow " : as a rule a small percentage only arrive at 
perfection. Not particularly good in petal : but the 
true shape, partly imbricated, is good when you get it. 
Beautiful colour, one of the really dark ones : a fair 
bloom to last, but not of the largest size. Like many 
of the dark Roses it requires hot, dull, dry weather, and 
in some seasons the petals will burn, i.e. turn brown, but 
I am doubtful if this is actually caused by the sun. 
Rain is more or less hurtful to all Rose-blooms, but the 



216 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



dark H.P.s, and this among them, will stand it as well 
as any. It cannot be called a free-bloomer, a good 
autumnal, or an early Rose. Perhaps best as a standard. 

Abel Grand (Damaizin, 1865). — A useful early garden 
Rose of very strong stiff hardy growth, with fine foliage, 
and stout and numerous thorns. This is a good type of 
the " garden " Rose, as, though its flowers are not good 
enough for show, the plant is vigorous and hardy, doing 
fairly well in poor soil, strong of constitution, not liable 
to fungoid pests, and flowering freely in summer and in 
autumn. The pink blooms are of large size, open and 
flat and rather weak in the centre ; not very lasting, and 
with thin petals. It has sported once or twice to a 
lighter shade, one of these variations having been fixed 
and named " Bessie Johnson," and a climbing sport of 
this has also been issued. 

Alfred Colomb (Lacharme, 1865). — Of fine growth and 
foliage in good soil but not on poor or light land. Not 
very liable to mildew and can stand some rain. The 
blooms generally come good, but occasionally divided, of 
fine typical shape, what the N.R.S. Catalogue calls 
" globular, high centre," which is a good description of 
this Rose in its perfection : very good in petal, centre, 
size, lasting qualities, and colour. This is a first-class 
late show Rose, good as a standard, fragrant, free in 
bloom, and fine as an autumnal, with clean, smooth- 
skinned, handsome wood, striking well as a cutting. 
The flowers are often extremely like those of Marie 
Baumann, though the wood and habits of the plant are 
very different. In my opinion, if either of these two 
well-known Roses was now brought out as a novelty, 
having been hitherto unknown, it would be considered 
synonymous with the other. Marshal P. Wilder is held 
to be too much alike and therefore considered a synonym. 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



217 



Alfred Colomb has not, to my knowledge, had any 
seedlings of note, save Comtesse de Casteja (Margottin, 
1882), which is valueless. 

Alfred K. Williams (Schwartz, 1877). — Makes long 
shoots as a maiden, or at times on good soil as a cutback, 
but the constitution is weak. Thorny, with good foliage, 
and will stand some rain. This is a Rose of great repu- 
tation, because the blooms nearly always come perfect, 
forming first-class examples of the popular " imbricated " 
shape, i.e. something after the form of a camellia. Not 
a good bloom to last, or of the largest size, but prominent 
as a show Rose from its shape and bright colour. It is 
not a very free bloomer but comes again pretty fairly in 
the autumn. It is quite a late Rose with me, as the 
shoots, though not very stout, run up to some height ; 
but it comes early with some growers. The plants are 
not hardy or longlived, and fresh ones should be budded 
every year, preferably on the briar, as, though some do 
well as cutbacks, maidens are more to be depended on : 
some find it answers best as a standard. Grand Mogul 
is said to be a seedling from this beautiful Rose. 

Alphonse Soupert (Lacharme, 1883). — Very thorny 
growth, but not strong with me. This Rose is included 
in the exhibition sorts in the N.R.S. Catalogue, but the 
blooms are rather loose and by no means first-class. 
They are large and may be valued where the first Roses 
are esteemed, as they are quite among the earliest. 
The petals are rather thin, and the shape is somewhat 
uncertain : still it is said to be a " showy " Rose, which 
in catalogue-English generally means " showy at a 
distance," i.e. that it will not bear a close inspection. 
Said by some to be a good pot Rose. 

Anna de Diesbach (Lacharme, 1858). — Of very strong 
hardy growth, but has the same fault of general loose- 



218 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



ness and unevenness in the blooms. They are of the 
largest size and more or less of the true cupped shape, 
but a perfect one is a rarity. 

Annie Laxton (Laxton, 1869). — A garden Rose, with 
good growth, unusually fine foliage, and strong consti- 
tution. Not liable to mildew or much injured by rain. 
One of the earliest, sometimes good enough for 
exhibition, a free bloomer and good autumnal. The 
flowers are of fair size and bright colour, somewhat flat 
and often irregular in shape, with rather thin petals. 

Annie Wood (E. Verdier, 1866). — Here we have a 
Rose with manners and customs (fortunately) peculiar to 
itself. It is a fine strong grower, with fair foliage, liable 
to mildew and orange fungus, but not much injured by 
rain. A great quantity of buds form on each stem : 
the top bud of all, which one would naturally reserve, 
is nearly always cracked, hollow, and distorted before it 
is much bigger than a thimble, and sometimes has a 
great green pip in the centre. You may search for the 
best-shaped bud, and do away with all the others for its 
sake. Even then, nine out of ten buds will show a 
great eye before they are more than half expanded, and 
the tenth will do it soon after being cut. You make up 
your mind to discard the sort altogether : but, just at 
the close of the season, a beautiful bloom makes its 
appearance on a shoot you had not noticed, with 
brilliant colour, full size, delightful fragrance, and good 
imbricated shape — a lovely Rose: and the plants are 
spared to serve you just the same trick another season. 
The title of this chapter being Avhat it is, it seems im- 
possible to avoid sooner or later bringing in the time- 
honoured anecdote of the traveller who, describing the 
" manners and customs " of some native tribes he had 
been visiting, was constrained to dismiss one of 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



219 



them with the terse remark, " manners none — customs 
disgusting." If it be possible to say anything so bad 
of a Rose, I am doubtful whether a better example than 
Annie Wood can be found for such a description in 
the N.R.S. Catalogue. The good blooms come gener- 
ally on old plants — it is of no use as a maiden. It 
should not be pruned too severely — a rule that generally 
applies to all those which are not good as maidens. 

Augnste Rigotard (Schwartz, 1871). — Of fair growth, 
with smooth wood, and fine foliage. Not particularly 
liable to mildew or orange fungus. A late light red 
Rose, sometimes very fine, good in autumn, but having 
no private peculiarities. 

Augustine, Gruinoisseau (Guinoisseau, 1889). — This is a 
very nearly white sport from La France, with all the 
habits of that popular variety, best as a standard and 
on not too heavy soil. It has not hitherto been found 
good enough for exhibition, but may possibly improve 
in that respect. 

Avocat Duvivier (Leveque and Sons, 1875), see Mare- 
chal Vaillant. 

Baron de Bonstetten (Liabaucl, 1871), see Monsieur 
Boncenne. 

Baroness Rothschild (Fernet, 1867). — This is one of 
those very distinct Roses, like Gloire de Dijon among 
the Teas, which stand by themselves in their respective 
classes, and become, sooner or later, the heads of 
characteristic families. The growth, which is termed 
" robust," is typical : comparatively short, thick, stumpy, 
stiff, upright wood, with grand foliage right up to the 
blooms, which are generally produced singly. Hardy, 
doing equally well on manetti, standard or dwarf briar, 
airly free from fungoid pests, of a strong constitution, and 
not much injured by rain. The blooms, which are late 



220 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



generally come well, of globular shape, and a beautiful 
pink colour. They are very large, and come again well 
in the autumn, but are quite scentless. A party of 
villagers came to see my Roses one day, and one good 
dame who was behind all the others stooped to catch 
the perfume of a fine specimen of the Baroness which 
had attracted much notice. She was disappointed, but 
saw the reason at once. "Oh, they've sniffed all the 
scent out of this 'ere one " ! It is rather wanting in 
fulness of centre, apt to open quickly in hot weather > 
and must be cut small for exhibition. Although 
thoroughly hardy in constitution, this fine Rose has 
either deteriorated in the last few years, or has simply 
had to take a lower place through the introduction 
of so many new fine sorts. At all events, " Rose 
elections " show plainly that it is not nearly so highly 
esteemed now as it was ten or fifteen years ago. 

It is much inclined to sport to white. Mabel Morri- 
son and White Baroness were comparative failures, but 
Merveille de Lyon has achieved a great success. Mabel 
Morrison has however atoned for personal failure by its 
wonderful progeny, Her Majesty. "The Baroness," as 
we used to call it, as if there could be no rival, may 
fall still further in popularity, but will live in its 
descendants, among which we may probably reckon 
Spenser, which seems to be simply a fuller Baroness 
Rothschild. 

Beauty of Waltham (W. Paul and Son, 1862).— Fair 
in growth and foliage, and not much liable to injury from 
fungoid pests or rain. The blooms come true and well, 
being seldom divided or malformed. The shape varies 
according to situation and cultivation. The N.R.S. 
Catalogue calls it "imbricated," and the raiser "cup- 
ped " : my specimens do not come in either of these 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



221 



forms, but the petals are very closely curved inwards 
in the centre in a manner that proclaims the variety at 
once. Nevertheless it should be noted that on better 
soil than mine it does come regularly of semi-imbri- 
cated form, and is then a fine flower. Like some others 
somewhat of this shape, and those of the pointed form, 
this Rose has the good custom of closing in and guard- 
ing its centre more tightly in hot weather when it 
is most needed than at other times. A free bloomer, 
rather late, good in lasting qualities and as an autumnal, 
but not very large. It has produced a seedling, Lady 
Arthur Hill (Dickson, 1889), of a novel shade of colour, 
but not large enough. 

Bcnoit Comte (Schwartz, 1883). — Very distinct in 
foliage and habit, and much liable to mildew. The 
growth is long and strong, but the flowers, which are 
among the very latest to open, have been very poor 
with me. 

Black Prince (W. Paul and Son, 1886).— Of fair 
growth and fine foliage, and occasionally gives quite a 
good dark bloom, but so rarely that I am forced to 
look upon it more as a pretender than a prince. 

Boule dc Neigc (Lacharme, 1867). — A cross with the 
Noisette class, of good growth and foliage, hardy and 
strong, doing well on the manetti or as a standard. 
The blooms come in clusters, after the Noisette fashion, 
and are sometimes distorted. They should not be 
thinned, or the probability of malformation will be 
increased. The N.R.S. Catalogue gives the shape as 
" open cupped," but with me the blooms are imbricated, 
perfect Rosettes in every sense. A pure white charm- 
ingly shaped Rose, but it is an abuse of even catalogue- 
English to call it medium-sized, as it is impossible to 
deny that it is very small. If it were of full size, we 



222 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



should have nothing to equal it for show as a white 
H.P. Stout in petal and lasting in bloom, very free- 
flowering and good as an autumnal. 

Camilla, Bcrnardin (Gautreau, 1865). — Of fine long 
growth and good foliage, but the wood is not very stiff, 
and the flowers are sometimes pendent. Not much 
injured by rain, but decidedly liable to mildew. The 
majority of the blooms come well, and are good in 
petal, fulness and shape, but not very large. Not 
imbricated with me, but of the pointed form. Lasting 
and fragrant, rather late, a free bloomer and a good 
autumnal. A Rose of good constitution, useful and 
reliable for garden or show purposes. 

Captain Christy (Lacharme, 1873). — Of the robust 
habit of growth, but the wood is unique and something 
like that of the Victor Verdier race. Lately declared to 
be a Hybrid Tea, an assertion which seems at present 
wanting in proof. It has splendid foliage, of a lovely 
colour when young in the spring, coming well up under 
the flower. Not much liable to orange fungus or 
mildew, and though not liking rain can put up with 
it better than many of the light-coloured Roses. The 
summer blooms are apt .to come divided and badly 
shaped particularly on strong shoots, but the good ones 
are fine in petal and fulness, fair in lasting qualities, 
and of the largest size, but rather open in shape. The 
shoots should be left rather long in pruning and not 
much thinned, for it is very full, and apt to come 
coarse and rough if grown too strongly. A free bloomer 
for one of the robust habit, and as an autumnal quite 
one of the best H.P.s we have, for flowers in Septem- 
ber or even October are sometimes better than those 
of the summer crop. A grand Rose if "well done 
by," grown on the briar (preferably as a standard) 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



223 



on good soil ; but rather dainty, nearly scentless, and 
does not like the manetti stock or being starved. A 
climbing sport of this Rose was issued by Ducher in 
1881. 

Caroline Testout (Pernet and Ducher, 1890). — A 
Hybrid Tea of too recent introduction to have its 
manners and customs spoken to with any certainty. 
The flowers are very large, quite distinct, and of very 
good form. It is a free bloomer, and a high reputation 
has already been attained. 

Charles Darwin (Laxton, 1879). — Good growth and 
foliage, the blooms having a colour described universally 
as brownish-crimson. I have been unable to detect the 
brown shade, but must, as I have said, leave these 
delicate distinctions of tints to experts. Rather late, 
and a good autumnal. The shape is open, and the 
variety does not prove very satisfactory with me, 
though often well shown by others. 

Charles Lcf chore (Lacharme, 1861). — Synonyms, Mar- 
guerite Brassac and Paul Jamain. Of strong growth 
with stout stiff smooth wood and fine foliage, requiring 
strong soil. The secondary shoots are much stronger 
than the early ones, and on cutbacks the latest blooms 
of the first crops are generally the best. More liable to 
orange fungus than to mildew, and can stand rain 
pretty well. The flowers generally come good, fine in 
petal, centre and size, lovely in colour, and beautifully 
round and smooth in appearance. The shape is open 
and semi-imbricated, which is very effective, but not a 
good form to last. Free in bloom and a good autumnal. 
This is the G.O.M. of the dark crimson Roses. Long- 
fellow's " Hiawatha " metre always seems to me to 
suggest 

Charles Lefebvre, the King of Roses. 



224 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



Cheshunt Hybrid (Paul and Son, 1873). — This was 
the earliest Rose to be recognised as a Hybrid Tea. It 
is of very vigorous growth, sufficient for a pillar or 
a paling, hardy and strong with line foliage, decidedly 
liable to mildew. A free and early bloomer, but the 
shape is open and the colour is wanting in brightness, 
and a dull Rose is surely a poor thing however many 
good qualities it may have. 

Comtc de Paris (Leveque, 1886). — A large full red 
Rose, of ordinary growth and habits, with flowers of 
" reflexed " shape. 

Comtc de Raimbaud (Roland, 1867). — Of good average 
growth and foliage, and clean handsome wood. Not 
particularly subject to fungoid pests or to injury from 
rain. A fairly reliable semi-imbricated crimson Rose, 
which a]3pears to be growing in favour, and seems to 
be considerably more appreciated now than it was ten 
years ago. This is unusual, but there is evidence that 
some Roses do improve as they grow older while others 
deteriorate. 

Countess of Oxford (Guillot, 1869). — One of a large 
family of smooth-wooded Roses, all I believe descended 
from Victor Verdier (1859). Some of them, such as 
the one under notice, Eugenie Verdier or Marie Finger, 
S. M. Rodocanachi, and Pride of Waltham, are quite 
first-class. All the different members of the family 
have the same or similar manners and customs. They 
have characteristic smooth wood and good foliage which 
is most lovely in the early spring, and does not suffer 
much from mildew but is especially liable to the 
attacks of orange fungus or red rust, the early shoots 
being often quite bare of leaves b}^ the end of August. 
They do not like light soil or the manetti stock, but the 
flowers will stand rain fairly. Countess of Oxford is of 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



225 



the largest size, sometimes even inclined to be coarse, 
good in petal and centre. The shape, which is rather 
open, is fairly lasting, but the colour soon gets dull, and 
is much lighter on weaker plants : a free bloomer but 
not so good an autumnal as some of the family. The 
variety is especially liable to sport, Pride of Reigate, 
Pride of Waltham and others having already appeared, 
A white sport of this variety, of which Pride of Reigate 
gave some hope, would be an acquisition. 

Gomtesse de Serenye (Lacharme, 1874). — Of fair 
growth and foliage, rather liable to mildew, and easily 
spoiled by rain. A very free bloomer and good 
autumnal. This is a Rose with awkward manners, for it 
has great possibilities and can be very fine when it 
chooses, but it is one of the " coarse " varieties, too full 
in petal, in regard to which the stronger you grow them 
the worse they are. On a maiden growth, especially if 
the buds be thinned, the survivor will often be a most 
unsightly object, and indeed it is very seldom that a 
large bloom will come without distorted shape ; but on 
the side-shoots of a cut-back in a dry autumn flowers of 
a beautiful " globular imbricated " shape may be got, of 
good lasting qualities. 

Countess of Rosebcry (Postans, 1879). — Of long strong- 
growth, with distinct smooth wood and fair foliage. A 
little liable to mildew but not much injured by rain. 
The blooms do not come very well, only a small 
percentage being quite regular in the shape, which is 
somewhat open. The petals are good and very smooth 
and a capital specimen may be had occasionally, though 
not of the largest size. Only fair in freedom of bloom, 
and not first-class as an autumnal. Duchess of Fife is 
a light coloured sport of this variety. 

Croivn Prince (W. Paul & Son, 1880).— Of good 

Q 



226 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



growth and foliage. The blooms are large and mil. 
with a decided purple tinge. Very free-flowering and 
a good autumnal. Useful as a garden Rose, or for 
forcing, and often good enough to show. 

DanmarJ; (Zeiner. Lassen. A: Dithmer. 1890Y — A 
sport from La France, with the same manners and 
customs, save that it is darker in colour, a little stifTer 
in growth, and seems thoroughly wedded to the one 
bad habit of the type — coming in a round ball instead 
of opening properly with a point in the centre. 

Dr. Andry (E. Verdier. 1864).— Of capital growth 
and foliage, hardy and of strong constitution on all 
forms of stocks, early in flowering, not much subject to 
mildew or orange fungus, and standing rain fairly. The 
blooms generally come with a pretty good point, but 
are apt to be divided, and sometimes irregular in the 
circular outline. Good in size, petal and centre and 
veiy bright at first in colour, but as often happens this 
does not last so well as the shape. It is very free flower- 
ing, a row of it making a grand show for a few days, but 
is not very good in autumn. A useful and thoroughly 
reliable Rose, which will do fairly well in weak soil. 

Dr. St well (Turner. 1879). — Rather weak both in 
growth and foliage, and best as a maiden. Liable to 
mildew and orange fungus, and to being " burnt" in 
the petals, but can stand some rain. The blooms 
cannot be depended upon to come good, but when 
they do the sort is seen as a fine distinct dark Rose of 
good pointed shape and moderate size, but not of high 
quality as a free bloomer or an autumnal. 

Biichiss ofATbanv ( W. Paul ^ Son, 1888).— Another 
member of the La France family, entirely similar 
in habit, the flowers being of a deeper colour than 
Danmark. not so large, but better shaped. 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



227 



Duchess of Bedford (Postans, 1879). — Of rather 
weakly growth and best as a maiden. A lovely and 
striking flower, beautiful in its semi-imbricated form, 
and bright with glorious colour, a mixture of scarlet 
and crimson. Not strong in constitution, free-flower- 
ing, or good as an autumnal, but the growth and habit 
have much improved with me of late years. 

Duchesse de Cay his (E. Verdier, 1864). — Syn. Penelope 
Mayo (Davis, 1878). Only fair in growth with rather 
weak foliage, the wood and habit being very distinct in 
appearance. Not liable to mildew or any injury from 
rain. The blooms come wonderfully well, every one 
being alike, and the sort is on this account useful to 
exhibitors for showing in triplets. Sweet-scented, 
perfect in form, good in centre and bright in colour, 
but decidedly below par in size. Not free-flowering or 
a good autumnal, and has dropped out of the N.R.S. 
Catalogue. 

Duchess of Fife (Cocker, 1892). — A lighter and 
beautifully coloured sport from Countess of Rosebery. 
similar in all other respects. 

Duchesse deMorny (E. Verdier, 1863). — Of fair growth 
and foliage in strong rich soil, the wood and leaves being 
very distinct and characteristic. Decidedly liable to 
mildew, and cannot stand much rain. The blooms 
come well shaped with very smooth stout petals, beauti- 
fully full, of distinct and lovely colour, large size and 
fair lasting qualities. This Rose is one of the very 
smoothest and most regular in globular imbricated shape 
that we have ; a free bloomer, but not so good in autumn, 
and rather dainty as to soil and treatment. The buds 
should be well thinned, for this is one of the true 
aristocracy where no fear of coarseness need be enter- 
tained. The shoots often come wholly or partially 

Q 2 



228 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



fasciated, i.e. two or more laterally joined together — 
a bad habit, and such growth at pruning time should 
be clean cut out. 

Duchesse de Vallamhrosa (Schwartz, 1875). — Re- 
quires good soil and generous treatment ; with these it 
will grow strongly with distinct habit and foliage, but it 
will not thrive everywhere. It is not very liable to 
mildew, but the blooms cannot stand rain at all, and 
being of a light colour are subject to injury from thrips 
in a dry season. They have a decided tendency to come 
badly shaped, often with me having a gap or chasm in 
the outline as though a piece had been cut out. The 
shape is rather too open and flat at the best, but it is 
of large size, free-flowering, fair in lasting qualities, and 
pretty good in a dry autumn. 

Duke of Connaught (Paul & Son, 1876). — A very 
bright velvety crimson Rose, of globular shape, not quite 
good enough as a grower for a garden Rose, and seldom 
large enough for exhibition. 

Duke of Edinburgh (Paul & Son, 1868).— Of strong 
good growth and foliage, with characteristic wood ; the 
secondary shoots are very long and rather spindly and 
pliable, so that the blooms are sometimes pendent. 
Not very liable to mildew, or much injured by rain, but 
in some places a victim to orange fungus. It generally 
comes true to its shape, which is good so long as it 
holds its point : but the petals are not very stout or the 
centre very full, and it is not a good laster. Of full size 
and most brilliant colour, vermilion crimson. In strong- 
specimens the crimson predominates when the bud shape 
is passed, but the self vermilion, which is generally found 
only on the weaker blooms, is perhaps the most effective. 
Not lasting in colour or shape, but of large size, a free 
bloomer and fair autumnal, good on all stocks. This 



^IBB A 



H. P. Eose, Duke of Wellington. To face p. 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



229 



was for years the brightest of all red Roses, but has been 
surpassed in this respect by later introductions. It was 
" The Duke " par excellence, as Baroness Rothschild was 
"The Baroness/' though Duke of Wellington, not so 
bright, was of earlier introduction. A lady friend used 
always to pounce upon any red Rose in my garden that 
showed extra brilliance, saying she knew what that Rose 
was — it was the Duke of Edinburgh. Of good consti- 
tution, but rather apt to run to wood instead of to 
bloom, especially in autumn, and on the manetti. 

Dule of Tech (Paul & Son, 1880).— Very like the 
last named in most particulars. Others of the same 
habit? and apparently of the same family, all coming 
from Cheshunt, are Reynolds Hole and Sultan of Zanzi- 
bar, but these last two are very delicate in constitution 
while the Dukes of Edinburgh and Teck are strong and 
hardy. Duke of Teck is not so dark in crimson and 
not so brilliant in vermilion as the earlier type. The 
shape is also more globular and less pointed, and it is 
not a favourite Rose with amateurs, very seldom coming 
really good with me, but is of good repute under glass. 

Duke of Fife (Cocker, 1892). — A rich crimson sport 
from Etienne Levet, with probably identical manners 
and customs. Noteworthy, because a sport generally 
comes of a lighter colour than the type. Too new to 
say much of, but likely to be a fine addition to show 
Roses. 

Duke of Wellington (Granger, 1864). — Syn. Rosieriste 
Jacobs. This is marked in the N.R.S. and some other 
catalogues as moderate, i.e. weakly in growth, but it is 
quite fair in vigour and foliage with me, and does 
well as a standard in many places. Of strong con- 
stitution, my oldest dwarf plants on briar cutting 
being still my best and stoutest. Not very liable to 



230 



THE BOOK OF THE EOSE 



CHAP. 



mildew or much injured by rain, a free bloomer and 
quite a good autumnal. The blooms come well in what 
I call the pointed form,, and are capital in petal and 
fulness, and grand in dark crimson colour and lasting- 
qualities. Medium, i.e. small in size, according to the 
X.R.S. Catalogue, which I can quite believe to be the 
case where the growth is moderate, but well up to the 
average with me. Will not do in hungry soil or where 
not well treated, but high feeding and close pruning will 
generally produce splendid blooms. Older than the 
Duke of Edinburgh, and. in spite of general repute, 
much the better show Rose of the two with me. This 
is one of those varieties which close their petals in the 
evening, thus seriously disconcerting at times exhibitors 
who have to choose their blooms at late hours. 

Dujmy Jamain (Jamain, 1868). — Of very strong, stiff 
stout growth and foliage, good on all stocks, with 
vigorous clean smooth shoots, such as a Rose should 
have. Not liable to mildew, and but little injured by 
rain. I ought to say that all H.P.s, except perhaps 
Paul Xeyron. Ulrich Brumier, and some others inclined 
to coarseness, are sometimes attacked by mildew, and 
are the better if rain does not fall on the open flower-, 
so " not liable " must be generally taken as not 
especially liable. The round fat smooth shoots of 
Dupuy Jamain produce round fat smooth blooms, 
which generally come well shaped, but the petals are 
not so stout as they look, and the centre is weak in hot 
weather. For exhibition it should be cut young and 
the point tied up for travelling, as it opens only too 
well. Of large size but a bad one to last : very free in 
bloom and perhaps the best autumnal of its colour. 
If I wanted a red Eose at the end of October I should 
come here first, and if any H.P. will bloom at Christmas 



Eclair. 



To face p. 231 



MAKERS AND CUSTOMS 



231 



this will. A good and reliable cool season Rose, of 
strong hardy constitution, which will grow almost 
anywhere and well repay good treatment. 

Earl ofDuff&rin (A. Dickson & Sons, 1887).— Of long 
but pliable growth, which, in the case of dwarfs, must 
be staked, or the heavy bloom will bend the shoot right 
down to the ground. The foliage is rather weak, and 
the buds even when they begin to open do not look 
promising or attractive. Nevertheless they slowly grow 
into large highly coloured blooms of thoroughly globu- 
lar shape, sweet-scented, lasting, and sometimes very 
hne. It is quite a late Rose, not very free-flowering, 
nor of much use as an autumnal. Its principal fault 
is roughness of outline, as the true globular shape is 
most exacting in this respect, and this sort does not 
often come well with me. A Rose for exhibitors, but not 
for garden culture. 

Earl of Pembroke (Bennett, 1882). — Of fair thorny 
growth, late, and a distinct shade of colour ; a free 
bloomer, rather thin in petal, and only worth class- 
ing for its value in autumn, when it is often at its 
best. 

Eclair ( Lacharme, 1883 ). — Worthy of notice, as being 
a good specimen of the true globular form which is 
rather unusual. The growth is good, the colour very 
blight, the form lasting-, and it is also very good in the 
autumn. It is difficult to get perfectly-shaped blooms 
of this form, and they are best avoided by the beginner. 

EUa Gordon (W. Paul & Son, 1884).— A brighter 
form of Madame Victor Yerdier, with the same manners 
and customs. 

Emffie Hausberg (Leveque, 1868) — A rather weakly 
grower, with characteristic very green wood and foliage, 
not much liable to mildew. The blooms come very late. 



232 



THE BOOK OF THE UOgl 



CHa'K 



and not unfrequently are thoroughly bad with a green 
pip in the centre. The variety has accordingly dropped 
out of some catalogues, but I generally get some 
beautiful blooms, large and smooth, of first-class globular 
imbricated shape, with good petals but inclined to be 
weak in the centre : of good size, lasting in shape but not 
in colour, and of no use as a free bloomer or autumnal. 
Thus this finely shaped and very distinct Rose is in 
a fair way to be discarded, being generally too late for 
exhibition, and too shy in blooming and weak in growth 
to be useful for other purposes. 

Etimne, Levet (Levet, 1871). — Of robust and smooth 
but very uncertain growth : long, strong, and stout in 
rich soil where it has a good hold, but otherwise quite 
short and stumpy. The foliage is very fine, and the 
blooms come early and well with large very smooth shell- 
like petals ; there is, or should be, a good point, but 
the general shape is open, the centre weak, and the 
form not lasting. Must be cut young for exhibition 
and tied up at once, for it is not reliable in hot weather. 
Not much injured by mildew or rain, but not good 
as a free bloomer or autumnal. It is of large size, and 
its grand petals and smooth even outline make it an 
effective show Rose in a cool season : but, though it does 
well on the manetti, for general cultivation or on weak 
soils it is not one of the best. 

Eugene Fiirst (Soupert et Netting, 1875). — A very 
strong grower with good foliage, liable to orange fungus, 
and to mildew which appears even on the petals, but 
not much injured by rain. This is a Rose whose 
manner it is to waste all its strength upon the wood, 
and have none to spare to swell the bud. We have 
some Roses which promise more than they perforin, and 
others which perform more than the}' promise. Thus, 



MAN^EftS am> customs 



233 



in H.P.s this rose has small blooms on very strong 
shoots, while Francois Michelon has very large flowers 
on thin small shoots. In Teas, the class of those who 
promise more than they perform finds an exponent 
(with me at least) in Etoile de Lyon, while the good 
part of Francois Michelon is ably played by Comtesse 
de Nadaillac. Eugene Fiirst comes generally well, of a 
good dark velvety colour, and nice shape, lasting fairly. 

Eugenie Verclier (J. B. Guillot, 1869).— Syn. Marie 
Finger (Raimbaud, 1873). — This Rose used to be called 
Mademoiselle Eugenie Verdier, but the title word seems 
lately to have been dropped by common consent, a matter 
of more importance than appears at first sight, for there 
are two other Roses named Madame Eugene Verdier, 
one H.P. and the other Tea. Moreover in the case of 
this Rose the synonym Marie Finger is most commonly 
used to save this confusion, but we must have a rule 
with regard to these troublesome synonyms and stick 
to it, and it seems fair that the oldest name should be 
the one to abide by, though an exception seems almost 
needed in this case. The Rose is of Victor Verdier race, 
with all the manners and customs of the family, and is 
certainly one of the best of them. The growth is often 
marked moderate, but it is fair with me when well 
treated. A beautiful colour, often nearer what I call 
"salmon" than any other Rose. Lady visitors will 
generally be drawn away from the brightest crimsons 
by a row of this variety in good bloom. Of large size, 
but not of very good lasting qualities, the centre being 
rather weak, and the form soon lost. Very free bloom- 
ing, and an excellent autumnal. Should be cut small 
and tied up for exhibition. 

Exposition de Brie (Granger, 1865), see Maurice 
Bernardin. 



234 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



E. Y. Teas (E. Verdier. 1874). — Only moderate in 
growth and foliage. Xot much liable to mildew, and 
stands rain fairly. The blooms come well, very full, of 
compact regular smooth globular shape, very bright 
colour, and good lasting qualities, but below the 
average in size. Fairly free in bloom, but of little use 
as an autumnal. 

Ferdinand de Lesseps (Verdier, 1869), see Maurice 
Bemardin. 

Fisher He lines (Verdier, 1865). — Of good growth and 
fair foliage. Particularly liable to mildew, but not 
much hurt by a little rain. The blooms come well, of 
the good pointed shape of the Duke of Wellington. 
The X.B.S. Catalogue speaks of it as "rather thin.*' 
but I have not found it so : on the contrary, with me 
the shape is lasting, though the brightness soon fades. 
Below the average size in ordinary soil, but free bloom- 
ing and a capital autumnal. This is a most useful sort, 
which accommodates itself well to circumstances — shuts 
up its petals at night, tightens its point in hot weather, 
and fbmis a beautiful button-hole in autumn or when 
not thinned for show purposes. 

Francois Mu '/<■:'. n (Levet. 1S71 ». — Of peculiar and 
very characteristic growth, with green slender yet fairly 
stiff stems, and thin poor foliage. This is the Rose 
above all others whose performance is better than its 
promise. It seems incredible that such a little bud on 
its spindly stem should open into what is one of the 
largest and finest show Boses we have : but it does. 
The petals look thin and the growth seems so weak 
that an exhibitor who did not know the Bose would be 
slow to believe it would stand or hold its shape in a 
hot tent : but it does this too. Little affected by 
mildew, but soon injured by heavy rain, the blooms 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



235 



come fairly well, but the centre though almost always 
well covered has seldom a defined point and is some- 
times irregular. The outline is often rough and the 
colour is not lasting. It cannot be called a free 
bloomer, and is one of the worst autumnals in our list 
of H.P.s, a large proportion of the plants having no 
second crop. In propagating this Rose and others which 
are shy bloomers and bad autumnals, care should be 
taken to bud from a flowering stem, for the young 
plant will probably not bloom the first year if the bud 
has come from a non-flowering autumnal shoot ; and a 
" runaway maiden " is a source of disappointment, even 
among Roses. Requires the briar stock and generous 
treatment. This Rose is apparently the progenitor of 
Mrs. John Laing, one of the most worthy of the gold 
medallists. 

GMral Jacqueminot (Rousselet, 1853). — Good but 
rather slender growth and fine but thin foliage ; liable 
to mildew, but not much injured by rain: very free- 
flowering, fragrant and a good autumnal, but decidedly 
thin. It must be grown very strong and cut young to 
be fit for exhibition, but it is often well shown, princi- 
pally by nurserymen and large amateurs, and is best as 
a standard maiden. As bright as Duke of Edinburgh 
when grown to perfection, but not lasting or of the 
largest size : still " le brav' General " knows its weakness, 
" pulls itself together " in hot weather, and tightens its 
point as hard as it can. Few Roses have had such a 
lasting reputation : for this grand old veteran is the 
great grandfather of almost all our red H.P.s, and is 
still grown very largely on all stocks for market and 
florists' purposes, " Generals " being almost as well and 
affectionately known in the trade as " Niels." 

Germaine Caillot (Pernet, 1887). — Apparently a 



23G 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



Hybrid Tea, of quite dwarf habit, but of stout, stiff, 
robust growth. This is a fine early show Rose, large, 
very full, bright and glistening and of perfect shape, 
white tinted with salmon rose. Its short growth makes 
it quite unsuited for anything but show purposes, but 
the constitution seems fairly good, and I am surprised 
that it is not grown more largely by exhibitors. 

Gloire de Margottin (Margottin, 1887). — This is a 
good deal like an improved form of Gloire de Roso- 
menes (Yibert), which is, I believe, the progenitor of 
General Jacqueminot. The growth is long and rambling, 
and it does well for a pillar, or especially for being 
pegged down as a bedding Rose. It is exceedingly 
bright in colour, but thin in petal, and not very full : 
nevertheless the shape is good and pointed while it 
remains, and it is perhaps the brightest of all the true 
red Roses. It seems likely to be very effectual if forced 
for market purposes, but has not I fanc} T as yet super- 
seded " the General." 

Gloire Lyonnaise (Guillot, 1884). — A Hybrid Tea, said 
when sent out to be a yellow H.P. : but it is practically 
white, the yellow shade being very faint. Of very 
strong growth, even in poor soil, not liking clay land. 
It will not do on manetti and, like most Hybrid Teas, is 
best as a standard. The buds are beautiful, but the 
petals are very thin, and it will not stand in hot 
weather. Not free-flowering if pruned hard, but capital 
in autumn, when fine well-shaped blooms may some- 
times be gathered. 

Grace Darling (Bennett, 1884). — This was sent out 
as a Tea Rose but pronounced to be a Hybrid Tea by the 
National Rose Society, the foliage being more like that 
of the H.P.s : of good growth, not much liable to mildew, 
but requiring dry weather. It is rather wanting in stout- 




H. P. Rose, Gcstave PiGA^fEAU. 



To face p. 237. 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



237 



ness of petal and fulness of centre, but comes well and 
opens readily. Distinct in appearance and colour, of 
good shape and medium size, not often large enough to 
be shown among H.P.s, and hardly lasting enough to 
be shown at all. Hardy, very free-flowering, and a 
good autumnal. Best as a standard, and requires good 
soil and generous treatment. 

Grand Mogul (W. Paul & Son, 1887), sec Jean 
Soupert. 

Gustave Piganeau (Pernet & Ducher, 1889). — Very 
short in growth, which is nearly the only fault of this 
very fine Rose. The foliage is good, and the plump fat 
buds above it open into very large, brilliant, grandly 
shaped blooms, with broad stout petals, and beautiful 
centre. Very little liable to mildew, and not much 
injured by rain. It was a great disappointment when 
this splendid Rose proved to be a poor grower. More- 
over the plant is not lasting in vigour, but often gets 
weaker, and it is best as a maiden, either on briar or 
manetti. It is very free-flowering, which seems to be 
a cause of its weakness of growth : it will not make 
wood, but is constantly forming buds. A good 
autumnal, capital for forcing, and a large lasting reliable 
exhibition Rose of the first rank. 

Gustave Regis (Pernet & Ducher, 1890). — A yellow 
Hybrid Tea, of fair growth and foliage, with long 
pointed buds. It falls abroad when expanded, and 
should be cut in the bud stage, when it is fine for 
button-holes. 

Harrison Weir (Turner, 1879). — A weak grower, 
suitable only for show purposes. Only one stem should 
be allowed to a plant, as it cannot be made too strong 
and if cultivated in this fashion, good growth and foliage 
may be obtained as a maiden, Not very liable to 



283 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



mildew or to be spoilt by rain : a fine bloom, coming 
pretty true, stout in petal, globular in shape, a trifle 
weak in centre, but of beautiful velvety colour and 
fragrant scent. Of full size and good lasting qualities 
when grown strong on the briar, but a Rose of weak 
constitution, of no use as a free bloomer or autumnal. 

Heinrich Sclmltheis (Bennett, 1882). — This was a most 
useful introduction. A hardy strong Rose, of capital 
growth and fine foliage, an early and free bloomer, and 
a good autumnal. Not liable to mildew or injury from 
rain. The flower has large handsome petals, and is of 
beautiful shape and colour when young, but soon loses 
both, the centre being generally disappointing. It must 
be cut small and tied up for exhibition. An excellent 
hardy Rose, of beautiful fresh colour, and large size, of 
which the following sports have been issued, Paul's 
Early Blush and Mrs. Harkness, lighter than the type 
and too much alike, and Merrie England, a striped 
Rose. 

Her Majesty (Bennett, 1885). — A well-named Rose. 
We all know the fable of the lioness, the queen of 
beasts, who, on being taunted with having only one 
young one at a birth (which is not the least true, by 
the bye), said it was so, but that one was a lion. We 
acknowledge the imperial claims of Her Majesty, and 
that when a bloom does come it is often a queen, but on 
dwarf plants I have, till lately, rarely succeeded in getting 
a bloom to each. It is a little better as a standard, 
and is no use on the manetti. Manners and customs 
are notoriously strict and exacting in royal circles, and 
in this remarkable Rose we certainly have some striking 
peculiarities. Of long, strong and yet robust growth 
if well fed, but by no means free: it makes extra- 
ordinary growth under favourable conditions, but a 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



239 



poor show if not treated regally and favoured with 
queen's weather. Prune high or low you will get but 
few shoots to a plant, and if the single growth of a 
maiden shoot be stopped, instead of breaking in several 
places like the vulgar herd, Her Majesty generally 
shoots only from the top bud left, and continues 
one stem upwards as before. We may place the plants 
close together, for the stems of each are few in number 
and upright and stiff. It has fine foliage and large stems 
with tremendous thorns, the whole being extremely and 
notoriously subject to mildew, so that it is best planted 
by itself or among the Teas, where the infection will be 
less dangerous in the summer season. If grown well, 
a large proportion of the blooms come good, and they 
can stand a little rain. They have fine stout petals, 
and are wonderfully full in the centre, so much so that 
the Rose has quite two shapes, and the best one was 
not known for the first year or two : for it has in 
the first stage a grand regular semi-globular shape, 
and when expanded and overblown it is yet so perfectly 
full, even when as flat as a pancake, as to show no eye, 
and to be still presentable and wonderful though not so 
beautiful as a Rose. The colour is best and purest in 
the first of these stages : in the second it is more mixed, 
something like a gigantic Marie Cointet. When pre- 
sented for the Gold Medal, which was granted by 
acclamation, it was shown by Mr. Bennett in great 
quantity, several large boxes of it being staged. Every 
bloom was fully expanded, and its true beauty remained 
unknown. It was then sold to America and we had 
to wait a year for it. When it was at last obtainable, 
there was a large demand for the half-guinea plants, 
with the result I believe that there was hardly a bloom 
seen in the country that year, the plants having no 



240 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



doubt been budded from non-flowering shoots. The 
following year the true form was seen, and it is not now 
quite so shy a bloomer as it was. In size and lasting 
qualities it is quite at the top of the tree : as a free 
bloomer and autumnal, absolutely at the bottom. A 
secondary or true autumnal bloom is rare : it does 
bloom as a maiden, otherwise its title to the term 
Perpetual might yet be in abeyance. In this and other 
respects it is already better and may still further 
improve : every year it seems to act a little more like 
other Roses than it used to do. Another remarkable 
point about this Rose is its reputed parentage ; for it 
is said, though it is generally supposed there must have 
been some mistake or accident, to be a seedling from 
the old Tea Canary, a yellow flimsy thing according 
to modern notions, and Mabel Morrison, a white sport 
from Baroness Rothschild which is particularly open and 
deficient in the centre. Mr. Bennett was one of the 
first to practise hybridising in this country, and sent 
out his new issues as Pedigree Roses : but one would 
think that on beholding the illustrious progeny of this 
apparently ill assorted pair he must have been inclined 
to consider chance still as likely to be successful as the 
careful choosing of seed-parents. 

Henri Ledechaux (Ledechaux, 1868) and Hippolyte 
J amain (Lacharme, 1874) are both members of the 
Countess of Oxford or rather Victor Verdier family, 
with the same general manners and customs, which 
it will not be necessary to repeat. Fairly good growth, 
with smooth characteristic wood, the first shoots losing 
their foliage early, being very liable to orange fungus or 
red rust; objecting strongly to light soil or the 
manetti stock ; free producers in summer and autumn 
of blooms of good globular pointed shapes, but not very 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



241 



lasting. Of the two here mentioned, the former is very 
thin and not suitable for exhibition, but has a charming 
bright bud for button-holes ; and the other is early, large, 
with fine foliage, and sometimes a good autumnal and 
a fine show Rose, but requires rich soil. 

Horace Vernet (Guillot 1866). — A typical show Rose ; 
grand in the extreme in every way on the exhibition 
table, equalled by few, and surpassed by none ; but to be 
sedulously avoided by those who grow Roses for ordinary 
garden purposes. The plant is of a thoroughly weak 
constitution ; and in a general way cannot be kept in 
health and strength beyond a year or two. Indeed it is 
in many places useless as a cut-back ; no other Rose is 
more worthy of the annual system of culture — budding 
anew on fresh strong stocks every year and cutting away 
the old plants to get the strongest buds — and for none is 
it more necessary. When thus treated, the growth and 
foliage are good enough, one would think, to keep the 
stock roots in health ; but the plant is almost sure to 
dwindle if preserved, lasting best, I am told, on the 
seedling briar. Not very liable to mildew or to be 
injured by rain. The blooms generally come good ; and 
good they are, with the stoutest of petals which shut up 
at night, capital centre, perfect shape (pointed, passing 
to imbricated), good dark colour, and lasting qualities of 
the first order. Not a free bloomer or a good autumnal : 
these are " lions," to be made much of, and we must not 
expect many of them. Cut away the plant, as soon as 
it has bloomed, with a ruthless hand, to get the best 
and biggest buds for propagating. Waste none on weak 
stocks or on manetti, and bud a good many, not delaying 
too long, for some may fail and require rebudding ; 
and, whether you keep the old plants or not, you will 
not cut from them so long as you have young plants to 

R 



242 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



go to. Hundreds of gardeners and Rosarians, who would 
otherwise never have heard of the great French artist, 
have had his name " familiar in their mouths as house- 
hold words " by the help of this most noble Eose his 
namesake. 

James Brownlow (A. Dickson and Sons, 1889). — A 
seedling from Paul Neyron and Marquise de Castellane. 
and inclined, as was likely from such parentage, to be 
coarse from being too full. The growth is uncertain, 
but the colour is distinct and brilliant. Very late in 
blooming and generally much wanting in smoothness 
and regularity, but on rare occasions a fine lasting bloom 
may be obtained. The family of Paul Neyron is practi- 
cally free from mildew. 

Jean Liabaud (Liabaud 1875). — "Of fair growth and 
foliage, not liable to mildew or injury from rain. A free 
bloomer, but a -poor autumnal, and a Rose of shocking- 
manners. Occasionally one gets a lovely bloom, of open 
imbricated shape, not strong in the centre, but shaded 
in the most beautiful way with all sorts of tints from 
vermilion to the deejDest crimson or maroon. But if you 
get one such in the course of a year from a dozen plants 
you will be pretty lucky, for most of the flowers come 
distorted in all sorts of ways. Worth mentioning for 
the mere beauty of colour shading, but an amateur, 
with not much room to spare 3 will probably soon have 
had enough of this Rose. 

Jean Soupcrt (Laeharine, 1875). — Syn. Grand Mogul 
(W. Paul and Son, 1887). It is strange that these two 
Roses should be so very like, not only in flower, but in 
wood, habit, manners and customs, when the latter is said 
to be a seedling from A. K. Williams, which is two years 
younger than Jean Soupert. At any rate, the National 
Rose Society was no doubt right in pronouncing them too 



H. P. Rose, Jean Soupert. To face p. 2d2. 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



243 



much alike, and therefore synonymous. The foliage is fair 
and the growth good but characteristic and peculiar. 
One or two shoots run away considerably above the 
others and give promise of good blooms, and when the 
bud forms, it is of very good typical shape and seldom 
comes cracked or divided ; but now, when you expect the 
plant to put all its strength into the bud, it does not do 
so ; the stem thickens at the base, and tempting buds 
for budding form all up the stem, but the flower buds 
swell very little, although they open slowly. The bloom, 
though sometimes of fail' average size, is smaller and 
weaker than one would expect from the size of the shoot, 
but the shape is quite first-class, with a round smooth 
button in the centre, the petals perfectly imbricated, 
and the outline regular. It is quite one of the three 
or four best examples of the imbricated form among 
H.P.s. The bloom is not very lasting, the colour though 
striking in its very deep shade is sometimes rather dull, 
and it cannot be called a free bloomer or reckoned as a 
good autumnal. Decidedly liable to mildew, which 
sometimes affects the jDetals. A late bloomer, which is 
well worth gTowing if only for its thoroughly distinct 
appearance in many particulars. 

Jcannie Dickson (A. Dickson and Sons, 1890). — 
Apparently hybridised, though perhaps remotely, with 
the Teas, the shape of the foliage suggesting some such 
strain. A good grower, but requires generous treat- 
ment, not liable to mildew or much injured by rain, free- 
flowering and pretty good in the autumn. The blooms 
have capital long large smooth petals, with centres high 
and finely pointed. Not very lasting, and difficult to 
keep clean in trying weather, but a fine show flower if 
grown strong, cut young, and tied up if necessary. 

John Hopper (Ward 1862). — A well-known and 

R 2 



244 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



formerly very popular English Rose, raised near Ipswich. 
A very strong grower, very hardy, with good constitution 
and foliage, liable to mildew, but not minding a little 
rain. The blooms come early in the season, and are 
fairly regular, but the shape is open and not of the first 
class. The colour is beautifully fresh at first, of a 
different shade on the under side of the petals, but is 
even more fleeting than the form. Of fair size, a free 
bloomer and a good autumnal. A capital garden Rose, 
doing well on all stocks, or even on its own roots as a 
cutting, and on poorish soil. 

John Stuart Mill (Turner, 1875).— Of strong long 
growth, not liable to injury from mildew or rain. A 
late bloomer, uncertain as to quality and usefulness. 
In some seasons all the flowers come as mere red lumps, 
but in others the majority come of fine imbricated shape 
and colour, and it is then a good show Rose, of average 
size and fair lasting qualities, but it is not a free bloomer 
or a good autumnal. In my experience it comes best 
in a cool season, but some other growers find it more 
generally reliable. 

Jules Margottin (Margottin, 1853). — Of very strong, 
thorny, hardy growth, with good foliage and strong con- 
stitution. A very free bloomer and good autumnal, 
but a poorly shaped rough bloom from a florist's point 
of view. Early, sweet-scented, and not particular as to 
stock, soil or treatment. A useful old-fashioned garden 
Rose, hardy, capable of being grown on its own roots, 
and suitable for cottage gardens or odd corners. The 
seed parent of Edouard Morren, another very strong 
grower, with huge globular flowers, generally rough and 
unsymmetrical. 

Kaiserin Augusta Victoria (Lambert and Reiter, 
1891). — A new Hybrid Tea of fine form and very 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



245 



promising ; but not yet sufficiently tried to have its full 
value and possible demerits described. 

La Fratcheur (Pernet and Ducher, 1891). — Also a new 
Hybrid Tea, of high promise. The growth is moderate, 
the buds long and pointed, and the blooms large but 
not lasting, with fine high centres and broad smooth 
outer petals. It should be remembered that as a rule 
all the Hybrid Teas, as well as the true Teas, give better 
flowers when grown as standards. 

La France (Guillot, 1867). — Very well known and 
popular, a Rose by itself, of great merit and of a 
thoroughly distinct type, pronounced somewhat sud- 
denly by the National Rose Society to be a Hybrid 
Tea. There does not appear to be sufficient evidence 
or authority for this distinction, and opinions on the 
matter are divided ; but some signs of affinity to the 
China race are to be seen in the habit and freedom of 
bloom. It seemed likely to be the founder of a new race, 
but Augustine Guinnoisseau, Duchess of Albany, Duchess 
of Leeds, and Danmark have only appeared of late years, 
and not one of them is an improvement upon the original. 
The growth and foliage are good and very characteristic, 
not much liable to mildew, but the blooms are rather 
sensitive to rain. In strong rich soil, or if too closely 
pruned and thinned, the blooms often come spherical and 
ball-like without defined shape, but on lighter land and 
when grown as a standard the form is very fine. The 
petals are good but the centre is sometimes weak or 
divided. The colour is beautiful, and should be of a 
silvery brilliance, but it is rather difficult to keep the 
flowers " clean." In freedom of bloom and as an 
autumnal it is of the very highest class : of the largest 
size, but not a good laster, and should be cut young in 
hot weather as it opens quickly. The scent is most 



246 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



distinct and exquisite : in that respect I should place it 
at the head of all the Roses of this section It would 
occupy the same position in the estimation of a good 
many as a general all round Rose for everybody, ex- 
hibitors, gardeners, cottagers and all. for it is hardy and 
of strong constitution on all stocks, showing pretty buds 
well into October, and will do well or even better on 
lightish soil, but should always be grown as a standard. 

La Franc*: <:h: S9 (Moreau, 1889). — Is a bright large 
showy red Rose, sometimes pretty good, and has no con- 
nection with the above. 

Lady Arthur Hill (A. Dickson and Sons, 1889). — A 
seedling from Beauty of Waltham, distinct in colour 
but small. 

Lady Helm Stewart (A. Dickson and Sons, 1887). — 
The same fault, want of size, is noticeable in this Rose, 
which is however very bright and free blooming and a 
good grower. 

Lady Mary Fitziriuia:n i Bennett. — A Hybrid 

Tea, of very dwarf growth, said to be a cross between 
Devoniensis T. and Victor Verdier H.P. It is not 
weak in constitution, as the growth though very short 
is hardy and robust, and is very free-flowering, so 
that perhaps, as noted in the case of Gustave Piganeau, 
the growth is simply checked by the habit of constantly 
forming verv large and exhausting flowers. It is sur- 
prising what a number of good and fine blooms will be 
produced from a very small plant. Xot liable to mildew, 
but the blooms are apt to be spoilt by rain or even 
heavy dew. The shape is excellent, and the petals are 
long and fine. It seems absurd to perch such a dwarf sort 
K on a stick," but it does better and even grows better 
as a standard, and can be successfully cultivated on 
manetti as a maiden, though the union is often bad. 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



247 



It is a good autumnal of high merit in many ways, and 
should be of a light pink colour, but is apt to come 
quite white, Lady Alice, White Lady, and Maid of the 
JVIist having been sent out as sports of this variety. 

Lady Sheffield (Postans, 1881). — A late show Rose 
of only fair growth, brilliant and distinct in colour, with 
good shape and fine petals, but not large, a free bloomer, 
or a good autumnal. 

Le Havre (Eude, 1871). — Of fair average growth, with 
gocd foliage : not specially liable to mildew, but rain 
wil impair its quality. A beautiful show Rose, one of 
the best examples of the imbricated form, but the 
blooms will not come of good shape or colour in bad 
weather. Almost like A. K. Williams at its best, but 
not }ften large. Like Fisher Holmes and some others, 
this Rose shuts up at night, the petals crinkling inwards : 
best as a maiden, not free in bloom or a good autumnal, 
but vith a high reputation for its lasting qualities on 
the }lant as well as when cut. 

Lcrd Macaulay (W. Paul & Son, 1863).— Hardy and 
strorg, with fair growth and foliage. Good bright 
coloir and very full shape, medium in size. Free- 
flowering and very reliable, for a majority of the 
bloons come good though not first-class. Might be 
usefil as a garden Rose, but it is not a good autumnal. 

Lmis van Houtte (Lacharme, 1869). — Of weak growth 
and small foliage : not much injured by mildew, but 
suffirs from orange fungus and rain and " burns " in hot 
weather. The blooms will only come fine if strong- 
shots are produced : and this is a difficult task with 
pmchased plants, as the constitution is weak and does 
no 1 bear removal well. It is best to bud it annually : 
bu: plants which have not been moved will sometimes 
dcwell as cutbacks for a few seasons. It requires high 



248 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



culture on the briar and is not free-flowering or good as 
an autumnal, but it is a fine well-built bloom when you 
get it good, with stout petals, high centre, fine globular 
outline, full size and dark, sometimes rather dull, colour. 
The flowers being heavy and the wood weak, flowering 
shoots of dwarfs should be staked when the bud is 
formed. The lasting powers of the blooms are par- 
ticularly good, and it is worthy of notice, as an example 
of the odd manners and customs of Roses, that some )f 
the weakest growers have the most lasting flowers, aid 
vice versa. For instance, Marquise de Mortemart aid 
Madame Ducher, two H.P.s that have practical}^ 
dropped out of cultivation from their extreme poorntss 
of growth, are especially noted for the lasting character 
of their blooms, while such strong growers as Heinrch 
Schultheis and Thomas Mills show the opposite side of 
the picture. Louis van Houtte will not do with me : 
a respectable bloom even on strong shoots is a rariy : 
but many others grow it well and esteem it highly. For 
anything but exhibition purposes, however, it should be 
generally avoided. 

Mabel Morrison (Broughton, 1878). — A pure wlite 
sport from Baroness Rothschild, but smaller and very 
weak in the centre : only worthy of notice as a sed 
parent of Her Majesty. 

Madame Charles Wood (E. Verdier, 1861). — Formerly 
of considerable reputation as a show Rose, but a lad 
grower, of weak constitution. The blooms often cone 
divided and rain will spoil them. Sometimes a stroig 
fine Rose, with large petals, rather flat in shape, aid 
tightly incurved in the centre. A good lasting flower, 
of full size, but a "bad doer" and not to be recon- 
mended. 

Madame Clemence Joigneaux (Liabaud, 1861). — A very 7 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



249 



strong grower with fine coarse foliage almost proof 
against mildew. The blooms are apt to be rough and 
badly shaped, and it seldom has sufficient form or 
smoothness for exhibition. Of large size and very sweet 
but rather a dull colour. A free bloomer, but not very 
good as an autumnal. A hardy garden Rose, useful, 
early, of strong constitution, which will do pretty well 
in light soil. Margaret Haywood and William Warden 
are sports of lighter colour from this Rose. 

Madame Charles Crcvpelet (Fontaine, 1859). — An old 
Rose, but still very good at its best, as a smooth refined 
show Rose of the popular imbricated shape. Rather a 
weak grower, and liable to mildew, but not soon spoiled 
by rain, and a sort which well repays high cultivation. 
This variety, like a good many others, has its good and 
bad years, and is probably best in a cool season. Of 
capital form, very smooth, regular, and full, of good 
lasting quality and fair size. Not a free bloomer or a 
good autumnal, but though never of strong or hardy 
constitution, and now excluded from the N.R.S. Cata- 
logue, it cannot, I think, like some others of its age, be 
suspected of having deteriorated. 

Madame Eugene Verdier (Verdier, 1878). — Grows 
well as a maiden, but the first growths of cutbacks are 
sometimes very short : still the blooms come just as well, 
and the foliage is fine. The constitution is delicate in 
some localities and the plants often gradually die ; severe 
pruning seems to produce canker. It is not very liable 
to mildew, but a slight shower will stain the colour, and 
much rain will cause the petals to "gum," i.e. stick 
together, and rot. The blooms are likely to be coarse 
and are not often of refined shape or appearance ; but 
they are very large with wonderfully fine petals and 
well-filled centres. Fairly free in bloom and a pretty 



250 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



good autumnal : the shape is globular but delicacy and 
regularity of outline are often wanting, and really it is 
sometimes almost like a prize cabbage for it is quite one 
of the largest Roses. It should be noticed that there 
is a Tea Rose of the " Dijon " race, of exactly the same 
name, besides Eugenie Verdier whose synonym is Marie 
Finger. 

Madame Gabriel Luizet (Liabaud, 1877). — A Rose of 
distinct habit, with strong vigorous growth, after the 
manner of a summer Rose. The foliage is very fine, but 
much liable to mildew : it is however maintained through 
the autumn more completely than that of any other 
H.P. The blooms are occasionally divided, but generally 
good. On cutbacks they come early and all at once, 
also after the fashion of summer Roses, and as they are 
easily injured by wet, two or three hours of rain at a 
critical time will destroy three-quarters of the crop. A 
very popular Rose and general favourite, for exhibition or 
bedding and massing purposes. It is not particularly good 
in lasting qualities but of full size, very smooth with good 
petals and a capital pointed centre, and is noted for its 
delightful fragrance, and for its colour, which is the most 
attractive shade of pink among H.P.s. A very free 
bloomer in the season, but a shocking autumnal, hardly 
averaging more than one or two poor things as secondary 
blooms to each large plant. Hardy and of strong con- 
stitution, good on all stocks, making a great deal of 
thorny growth in the autumn, and forming quite a big 
bush or fine standard in good soil. It should be left 
long in pruning and only the outer shoots retained. 

Madame Henri Pereire (Vilin, 1886). — A crimson, 
rose of pretty good growth that is generally well 
spoken of, but it is very liable to mildew and proves of 
little value with me. 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



251 



Madame Hippolyte Jamain (Jamain, 1871). — Of good 
smooth growth and foliage, not very liable to mildew, 
but rain will injure the blooms. A coarse Rose, gener- 
ally rough and irregular if grown strong, but occasion- 
ally of even globular shape in hot dry weather, and 
then valuable for exhibition as it is very large, full, and 
lasting. A free bloomer in the season, but not much 
of an autumnal. It should be noticed that there is a 
good Tea Rose of exactly the same name as this, besides 
Hippolyte Jamain H.P. 

Madame Isaac Pereire (Margottin, 1880). — Apparent- 
ly a perpetual Hybrid Bourbon and the founder of a 
new race. Of extra strong stout growth with fine 
foliage, not liable to mildew. The blooms are very 
large and sweet, sometimes of good form but weak in 
the centre. It makes a fine show as a garden Rose, 
being very free-flowering, and capital in autumn. 
Thoroughly hardy and makes a fine standard, but does 
equally well as a bush. A seed parent of Mrs. Paul, and 
of Madame Pierre Liabaud which is identical with 
the type except in colour, and also, I hope, of others to 
come which will perpetuate the good qualities of the 
Bourbon family, in autumnal flowering and sweetness. 

Madame Lacharme (Lacharme, 1872). — Of fair growth 
and foliage, with characteristic habit. The shoots 
themselves require to be severely thinned, and then 
they must be looked over from top to bottom several 
times during the growing season, as it is such a free 
bloomer that every wood bud will break and try to form 
a flower bud before the top one has begun to swell. 
Very liable to mildew, and absolutely spoilt by any 
rain even at quite an early stage. Even a heavy dew 
will sometimes soil the blooms. These are of a pure 
white, and for years this was the best H.P. of its 



252 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



colour, a row of it in full bloom looking most charming- 
just as the dusk of a July evening comes on. Water 
appears to wash the colour off the petals and leave 
them transparent, for they are of the most delicate 
texture and will show the ravages of thrips verv 
readily ; and as these are sure to come in some places 
in hot dry weather, and wet is even more fatal, 
Madame Lacharme has often a bad time of it. The 
shape is good and lasting, globular with the centre well 
tilled, but the size is not up to the average. It will 
come again well in the autumn, if it should be par- 
ticularly dry and fine, but as the best white H.P. it has 
been completely eclipsed by Merveille de Lyon, and 
must put up with the qualification " best under glass." 

Ma dame Xoman (Guillot, 1867). — Another pure white 
H.P.. but a weak bad grower with small foliage. The 
blooms also are quite small but of exquisite form and 
the purest colour. This Eose and Boule de Xeige are 
much better shaped than Madame Lacharme or Mer- 
veille de Lyon, but are so very small in comparison as 
to be completely out of it. 

Madame Prosper Laugier (Yerdier, 1875). — Of good 
strong stiff growth with characteristic appearance and 
habit. Distinct also in colour, but unreliable and not 
to be recommended for ordinary purposes. 

Madame Victor Verdier (Yerdier. 1863). — A very 
strong grower with fine foliage beautifully coloured in 
the early spring. Not especially liable to injury from 
mildew or rain. A well known crimson Rose, forming 
large clusters of buds which should be careniUy thinnd. 
The later blooms on the longest and strongest shoots 
are the best, and occasionally these are very fine, full, 
lasting and bright. Fairly free-rlowering and good 
as an autumnal, but though it is a hardy good grower 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



253 



with strong constitution, high cultivation is necessary 
for the production of really good blooms. 

Magna Charta (W. Paul & Son, 1876). — Exceedingly 
strong growth, with large foliage : not liable to injury from 
mildew or rain. A very large flower, inclined to be rough 
and irregular, very full and showy. Like most Roses 
which are too full, and therefore apt to be uneven and 
" coarse," it is worst on maidens and best on cutbacks. 
Fairly free blooming considering its size, but a very 
bad autumnal. A hardy, showy Rose for massing, 
doing well on all stocks. 

Marchioness of Downshire (A. Dickson & Sons, 1894). 
A fine new Rose, of good substance, colour and form, 
which gained the Gold Medal in 1894, and will, I hope, 
prove worthy of the distinction, but at present it is 
untried in growth and habit. 

Marchioness of Buffer in (A. Dickson & Sons, 1891). — 
A Gold Medal Rose of large size, fine colour and good 
form : not, apparently, a very good grower, and the 
blooms seem easily injured and stained by rain, but they 
are excellent in fine weather, lasting, and quite distinct. 

Marchioness of Londonderry (A. Dickson & Sons, 
1893). — Another winner of the Gold Medal for the Irish 
firm. The flowers are extremely large with grand jDetals, 
but the grayish white colour is not very pleasing, and I 
fear they will fail to open properly in damp weather : 
however it is too soon to speak of it with any certainty. 

Marechal Vaillant (Jamain, 1861). — Syn. Avocat 
Duvivier. Of good growth and foliage, well thought 
of in its day, but now superseded by better sorts. A 
useful garden Rose, good on all stocks. 

Margaret Dickson (A. Dickson & Sons, 1891). — A 
Gold Medal Rose, said to be a cross between Lady Mary 
Fitzwilliam and Merveille de Lyon. When first shown 



254 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



by the raisers, it was heartily welcomed as the finest 
white H.P. yet known, for it supplied just what was 
wanting in Merveille de Lyon, long petals forming a 
good point in the centre : and a pointed white H.P. of 
good size was unknown. It is a good illustration 
of the impossibility of describing the manners and 
customs, merits and failings, of any variety till it has 
stood the test of some years" experience, that up to the 
time of writing English growers have generally failed 
to get blooms of this variety approaching in excellence 
those which are still so well shown by Messrs. Dickson. 
A considerable improvement in this respect has taken 
place in 1894 ; over-propagation has been known to act 
prejudicially on a Eose : and it will be a great gain 
if we can all grow such specimens of Margaret Dickson 
as those which won the Gold Medal. It is very strong 
and vigorous in growth, with tine foliage sadly liable 
to mildew, fan in freedom of bloom but rather a 
poor autumnal. 

Marguerite Baudot (Guillot, 1888). — Of small weak 
growth, and only suited for exhibitors. The blooms 
are most delicate and easily injured by damp, but 
sometimes a very tine and first-class flower is produced. 

Marguerite de St. Amamd (Jamain, 1864). — Of fair 
thorny growth, with good foliage, very green in the 
spring. Not liable to mildew nor much injured by a 
little rain. The blooms almost always come well, of a 
delightfully fresh pink colour, and regular but open 
and rather flat shape, well filled in the centre. One 
of the best of its colour, early, free blooming and a good 
autumnal, of large size and good lasting quality. It is 
an unfortunate custom of this Rose to be particularly 
palatable to rabbits, who will search out and attack it- 
first among a large collection. 



Rose. Marguerite Boudet. 



To face p. 254. 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



255 



Marie JBaumann (Baumann, 1863). — Syn. Madame 
Alphonse Lavallee. A Kose of great reputation. The 
growth as a cutback cannot be called more than fair, 
and the foliage is not large. The wood is weak and 
pliable, and the flowering shoots of dwarfs must be 
staked, as the stem is not stiff enough to support a 
heavy bloom. This habit much detracts from the 
appearance of the flowers while on the plant, as they 
generally fall over with their faces to the ground. 
Fragrant, not much injured by rain, but decidedly 
liable to mildew. It is especially noted as one of the 
most reliable of Roses, for the blooms nearly always come 
good and well shaped. Free blooming and a good 
autumnal, fair in petal, good in centre, of large size and 
fair lasting qualities, and particularly excellent in smooth- 
ness and regularity. More often good than Alfred 
Colomb, which is sometimes very like it in shape and 
colour, though the habits of the plants are widely 
different. Does fairly as a standard but not so well 
on the manetti, must be highly cultivated, and requires 
rich soil. Not a hardy sort of strong constitution, but 
it has been for many years, and appears likely to 
continue to be, one of the most popular of exhibition 
Roses. 

Marie Cointet (Guillot, 1872). — One of the " weak 
robust" sort, like Madame Charles Wood in growth, 
stoutish but short. Not liable to mildew, but a colour 
that suffers in rain. The blooms do not often come 
well, but the petals are thick and good, the shape 
sometimes but rarely fine, and the centre well filled. 
A delicate dwarf plant, and the blooms though very 
lasting are decidedly deficient in size. 

Marie Finger (Raimbaud, 1873), see Eugenie 
Verdier. 



256 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE chap. 



Marie Body (Fontaine, 1865). — Syn. Comtesse de 
Choiseul. Capital strong growth and foliage, not very 
liable to mildew, but the flowers are utterly destroyed 
by any rain, even when quite in the bud state. Requires 
dry hot weather and then frequently brilliant and 
superb ; a striking contrast to the ugly brown rotting 
balls which are seen in a showery time. The blooms 
are large and particularly heavy, and any poet who 
speaks of being " pelted with Roses " as an sesthetical 
luxury may, I think, be convinced of error if he will 
allow me access to my Marie Radys in a damp season. 
A free bloomer but does not shine as an autumnal. The 
buds are very hard and do not open readily, but a fair 
proportion come well if the weather be right, with stout 
petals, very full centre, globular shape sometimes 
rather rough, brilliant red colour, and capital lasting 
qualities. It does not do well as a maiden, as is 
common with those Roses which are extra full, and to 
my mind has deteriorated somewhat in the last few 
years. Still it is a good healthy, hardy, late sort, 
likely to be in demand after a dry season, and to be 
neglected after a wet one. 

Marie Verdier (Verdier, 1877). — Of short growth but 
fairly strong, with good foliage, very green in the 
spring. Not very liable to mildew, but loses colour 
in rain. The blooms come generally well, the shape 
being lovely, externally of the form of a chalice, with 
the centre most regular and symmetrical. Its strong- 
points are the size, thickness, and smoothness of its 
petals ; in the last two particulars it is hard to be sur- 
passed. Fairly free blooming, but not good as an 
autumnal. A most refined and high class Rose, not 
very hardy in constitution, but particularly noticeable 
for its regularity and smoothness. 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



257 



Marqioise de Castellans (Pernet, 1869). — -Of robust 
habit ; sometimes a very strong grower with thick long 
thorny shoots and fine foliage, but capricious in this 
matter, and rather difficult to please. Not only does 
it do well in some places and badly in others, but my 
own plants, treated all alike, are most uneven, some 
being very weak and some very strong. Sometimes 
it will grow well in light soil, but at any rate it will 
be of little use if it does not make strong growth. The 
blooms are frequently of uneven shape, occasionally 
rough and coarse, but they are large, and effective when 
they come good with a pointed centre. Not liable to 
mildew or much injured by rain, early, and free-flowering 
if it grows well. Not very good in lasting qualities, 
but quite noted as an autumnal, fine large blooms being 
frequently produced even till quite late in the season. 

Maurice Bernardin (Granger, 1861 ). — Syn. Exposition 
de Brie, Ferdinand de Lesseps, and Sir Garnet Wolseley. 
Of good growth and foliage, rather liable to mildew 
but not much injured by rain. The blooms come 
pretty well, of good semi-globular shape and fair general 
qualities. This variety, as shown by the number of 
synonyms, represents a fair average crimson Rose not 
particular as to the stock it grows on, and free from 
unusual peculiarities or special manners and customs. 

Merveille de Lyon (Pernet, 1882). — Of Baroness 
Rothschild race, in all habits resembling it in every 
particular. While Margaret Dickson seems still un- 
established, this sort remains the finest white H.P. It is 
generally of a lovely pure white colour, but comes some- 
times rather pink in the autumn, and occasionally a 
shoot will revert back to Baroness Rothschild. A grand 
Rose of the largest size, wanting only the point in the 
centre, which Margaret Dickson has under its raiser's 

s 



258 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



cultivation, to make it perfect. It opens quickly, is weak 
in the centre, and must be cut quite small for exhibition. 
This race has a splendid hardy robust constitution : no 
blanks occur in my rows of cutbacks of this Rose and 
the Baroness. The plants are alike and even: none 
die, or are ever " sick or sorry." They do well on any 
stock or even on their own roots, and are splendid 
autumnals but scentless. 

Miss Hassard (Turner, 1875). — Of strong thorny 
growth, hardy, free blooming and a pretty pink colour, 
but weak and loose in shape. A garden Rose, worthy of 
note as being one of the earliest to bloom. 

Monsieur Boncenne (Liabaud, 1864). — Syn. Baron de 
Bonstetten. A strong grower with fair foliage, but 
liable to mildew and orange fungus, and not liking rain. 
Very early : one of the first to show flower buds. A 
poorly shaped flat bloom at the best, only a small 
proportion of them coming good, but a beautiful dark 
colour, particularly " velvety." Requires a hot season, 
and yet is liable to be " burnt." Fairly free blooming 
and of average size, but not lasting or a good autumnal 
and of no use as an exhibition Rose. 

Monsieur Noman (Guillot, 1866). — A capricious 
grower, often very weak, and better in growth on light 
soil though the blooms are then poor. The character- 
istic wood is very enticing to prune to, if you do not 
know " its tricks and its manners " ; for the base of 
every shoot swarms with great strong red wood buds, 
looking as if the plant was going to grow with great 
vigour : but the experienced primer will leave very few 
indeed of these buds, and allow only two or three 
shoots to remain. It is best as a maiden, budded 
annually on small fast-growing stocks. Not liable to 
mildew, but absolutely spoiled by rain, which in the 




1i fast 7 2>J 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



259 



earlier stages will cause the young blooms to gum and 
rot without opening, and will sadly stain the flowers 
when they are opened. It pays well for protection in 
showery weather, for it is fine in petal and shape, clear 
in colour, and large in size. One of the earliest, a very 
free bloomer, but from its weakness of growth of no use 
as an autumnal. 

Mrs. Baker (Laxton, 1876). — Of Victor Verdier race, 
with the usual habits of the family. The brightest of 
them all in colour, with a beautiful pointed shape, one 
of the earliest of H.P.s, of large size, but not very 
lasting in colour or form. 

Mrs. Harry Turner (Turner, 1880). — Of strong 
characteristic growth with good foliage, but the plants 
are apt to canker and die back gradually if pruned hard, 
and the manetti stock should not be used for them. 
This is perhaps the brightest of all the deep crimson 
Roses, and would have a great reputation if it had but 
lasting qualities. Unfortunately the centre is weak, 
and the whole bloom very short-lived, so that it is 
hardly possible to show it. A free bloomer and fair 
autumnal. A grand garden Rose, sure to attract 
attention by the splendid glow of its colour. 

Mrs. John Laing (Bennett, 1887). — One of the best 
half-dozen, apparently, from a similarity in the wood, a 
seedling from Francois Michelon, but stouter and stiffer 
in stem with much better foliage. Coming so soon 
after Her Majesty, this Rose, though not so showy at 
first sight, was a still greater triumph for Mr. Bennett 
and English-raised Roses, and was even more worthy of 
the Gold Medal. In the matter of " coming good," it 
may strongly dispute the palm with Marie Baumann, 
for it rarely suffers from any malformation even in the 
autumn, and whether the season be cold wet and late, 

S 2 



260 



THE BOOK OF THE HOSE chat. 



or hot dry and early, the variety may still be seen at 
its best. Not liable to mildew or injured by rain, and 
retaining its foliage well in the autumn. First-rate 
in petal, fulness, globular pointed shape, lasting 
qualities, size, and freedom of bloom in summer and 
autumn, the only thing that can be said against it is 
that the pink colour is not very decided or bright. 
Hardy, doing fairly well in lightish soil, and excellent 
as a standard or a dwarf, it is everybody's Rose, with 
perhaps fewer imperfections than any other. 

Mrs. Paul (Paul & Son, 1891).— Hybrid Bourbon, a 
seedling from Madame Isaac Pereire, but it is at present 
a poor autumnal, and seemed likely at first to be only 
a summer Rose, like the old H.B.s. This is, however, a 
winner of the Gold Medal and often a really fine show 
Rose, which none of the old H.B.s were, a most dis- 
tinct and noteworthy flower when seen at its best. 
The growth is very strong, and the foliage of a lovely 
tint in the early spring and not liable to mildew. 
Only some of the blooms come good, a certain propor- 
tion being loose and very deficient in centre, and they 
are often rather too flat ; but the good ones are large 
with a fine well developed centre showing grandly 
against broad smooth stout petals regularly imbricated. 
The colour is rather blotchy and not very artistically 
shaded, and the shape is not lasting, the centres re- 
quiring to be tied for exhibition. The manners and 
customs can hardly be said to be thoroughly established, 
and, as some improvement has already taken place, it is 
to be hoped that this fine Rose, when a little older, may 
prove more free-flowering, and gain at least a better 
reputation as an autumnal. 

Mrs. P. G. Sharman Crawford (A. Dickson and Sons, 
1894).— This Rose gained the Gold Medal in 1893, and 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



2G1 



appears to be a valuable introduction, free-flowering, 
and of fine form and colour ; but it is much too soon to 
give it a reliable character. 

Paul Neuron (Levet, 1869). — Alphabetical order is 
strictly impartial, and we have here, following three Gold 
Medallists, one of the " best abused " of Roses. Of un- 
usually strong growth and foliage, almost entirely 
untouched by mildew and little injured by rain, with 
giant blooms, stout in petal and very full, Paul Neyron 
is yet justly considered to be too coarse, and wanting in 
delicacy and symmetry, for a florist's flower. It is, how- 
ever, highly esteemed in France and America, and many 
thousands are yearly exported to the latter country, where 
they are principally grown under glass. The outside 
world have often (most unjustly) taunted Rose exhibitors 
with going in for mere size, it being their idea, I believe, 
that Edouard Morren and Paul N eyron are the special 
darlings of our hearts. I remember on one occasion a 
worthy gentleman sending six Paul Neyrons with con- 
siderable confidence to a show in his neighbourhood 
and instructing his gardener to pick out the " biggest." 
They formed a most ludicrous sight against other well 
shown Roses : so utterly overblown, shapeless, and 
discoloured that a cow would have turned up her nose 
at them. It is occasionally shown in fair form, and 
would perhaps be oftener thus exhibited, medium-sized 
flowers not too much thinned being chosen, but Rosarians 
have felt the weight of the unjust stigma alluded to, 
and poor Paul Neyron, the biggest of Roses, has become 
a by-word and a reproach. Fairly free-flowering and 
pretty good in autumn, with strong growth and con- 
stitution, doing well on all stocks, it is a good garden 
Rose for those who admire a mass of petals and colour 
of the pseony type. But, taking also into considera- 



262 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



tion its remarkable immunity from mildew. its evident 
use is as a seed-parent to instil vigour and size into 
refined but weakly sort-. Mons. Levet has already 
made use of it in this way. a- we know, and Paul Neyron 
lives again, with vastly increased reputation, in Ulrich 
Brunner. 

Pierre Netting (Portemer 3 1863). — Of vigorous strong 
growth, good on all stock?, with extra large fine foliage 
rather liable to mildew. A line-weather Eose that will 
rot without opening in a wet season. It comes badly 
as a rule, slow in opening, and often showing a great 
hollow in the centre down to the eye before it expands. 
The plant- are passed by as hopeless again and again : 
then, with some mysterious climatic change, for fine 
weather alone will not do it, toward the end of the 
season the blooms sometimes begin to open properly 
when all the strongest are over, and we see what a grand 
flower it can be when it chooses. Though still inclined 
to be weak in centre and endurance.it is then excellent 
in shape, colour, size, fragrance, and substance, and " bad 
manners alone keep Pierre Netting from a high 
position. It is aggravating to see such line shoots pro- 
duce nothing but ill-formed hollow things which can 
hardly be called Roses, while the plant has such good 
possibilities within its reach. It is free-flowering but 
late, and not a good autumnal, as the second 
crop is rarely of any value. The violet shade on 
the outer petals is one of the nearest approaches to 
blue that we have : and appearances seem to show 
that the first blue Rose (when will it come h will be 
a dark one. 

Prick of Reigate (Paul and Son, 1885). — A sport 
from Countess of Oxford, with all the manners and 
customs of the Victor Yerdier race. This Rose has at 




H. P. Rose, Prince Arthur. 



To face p. 2(33. 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



263 



least the merit of being the most distinct in colour of 
all H.P.s, so that the merest tyro could pick it out any- 
where, for it has the dark ground shade of the original 
striped and splashed with white. The appearance does 
not seem very satisfactory, but that may be a matter of 
taste. A white ground, striped with some fairly bright 
colour, as in the old damask Rose " York and Lancaster," 
seems a more attractive combination, but it does not 
appear likely that a striped Rose will ever find great 
favour. 

Pride of Waltham (W. Paul and Son, 1881).— 
Another of the same family, being also a sport from 
Countess of Oxford, and a very valuable one. As a show 
Rose this is one of the best of this important race, for it 
is as good a grower as any of them, and the blooms are 
very large, opening well to a grand shape, with stout 
petals and fine colour. Even Waltham may well call 
this Rose its Pride. 

Prince Arthur (B. R. Cant, 1875). — Of good vigorous 
growth, but the wood is not quite stiff enough to sup- 
port the blooms, and the shoots of dwarfs should be 
staked : liable to mildew and orange fungus, but not 
much injured by rain. The blooms come generally well, 
in a capital characteristic form, and though the petals 
are thin and the flowers look fragile, they last well. 
I gather from Mr. B. R. Cant that the origin of this fine 
Rose is rather obscure, but the general appearance points 
to General Jacqueminot as an ancestor. It is however 
much darker in colour, larger, and does better with me 
in every way. Very free blooming and fairly good in 
autumn, but requires good treatment to be seen in 
perfection, though it is hardy and healthy in most soils. 

Prince Camille cle Rohan (E. Verdier, 1861). — Syn. 
La Rosiere. Of good growth and foliage, very liable to 



204 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



mildew and orange fungus. The blooms are apt to 
" burn " but are not much injured by rain, thin and apt 
to show the eye, below the average size, but remarkable 
for colour. It is still the darkest of all Roses when grown 
strong, and velvety in the highest degree. Being much 
the oldest of all the dark Roses of merit, it was a very 
well known name in past years ; now however it has not 
only been passed in the race by larger and more en- 
during sorts, but has also apparently deteriorated in 
itself. Though very free blooming and a good autumnal, 
hardy, a good doer, and easily propagated, it requires to 
be highly cultivated and grown strong to show its true 
colour, for it will come of quite a different hue — more of a 
scarlet crimson — on weaker shoots. It requires a cool 
season, and came to light again wonderfully in the shows 
of 1888, being hard to beat at any time as a very dark 
bud for a button-hole. 

Princess Louise Victoria (Knight, 1872). — Of extra 
strong growth, a useful pink garden Rose, sufficiently 
strong to do for a pillar, and yet flowering freely as a 
strong standard. 

Queen of Queens (W. Paul and Son, 1884). — Of Victor 
Verdier race with the usual habit, but not quite so strong 
in growth as most of them. Hardly full-sized, but of 
nice globular form. 

Heine Marie Henriette (Levet, 1878). — A Hybrid Tea 
Rose, of very strong climbing growth, with good foliage, 
not much liable to mildew or to injury from rain : very 
free-flowering and a capital autumnal. Being brighter 
than Cheshunt Hybrid, this Rose has been for a long time 
considered the best of the red climbers, and is some- 
times, most incorrectly, called a red Gloire de Dijon. 
The Waltham Climbers (W. Paul and Son, 1885), of 
which No. 1 is the brightest and No. 3 the best 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



265 



shaped are its strongest rivals, but they may possibly 
all have to yield except in size of flowers to Turner's 
Crimson Rambler, the climbing Polyantha which 
gained the Gold Medal in 1893. 

Reynolds Hole (Paul and Son, 1872). — A seedling 
from Duke of Edinburgh, of long strong growth when 
in health with smooth characteristic wood, but of bad 
constitution, for the plants are sadly apt to become 
weak and die and are best as maidens. It is liable to 
mildew and orange fungus, to injury from rain, and to 
" burning " : a good average of the blooms come well 
shaped, but the weather must be hot and dry or neither 
colour nor form will be perfect. The flower is fully 
filled in the centre, lasts extremely well and hardly 
ever shows an eye ; but it opens slowly and must not 
be cut for exhibition before it is fairly expanded, for 
nothing in the shape of long journeys or hot weather, 
pencils or budding knives, force or violence will make 
it open except on the plant. It will not put up with 
light soils or the manetti stock, but sometimes does 
better as a standard, is late and not very free-flowering, 
and, being so dainty, cannot be expected to become a 
good autumnal. But a good bloom of it is truly superb, 
in petal, shape, size, and especially in colour, worthy of 
the name it bears of the President of the National Rose 
Society who has done so much to render Rose growing 
popular. 

Salamander (W. Paul and Son, 1891).— A Gold Medal 
Rose which has hardly had sufficient trial for its manners 
and customs to become well established. The growth 
and foliage seem to be good, and I have had no mildew on 
it. The blooms are bright and almost always try to come 
of good pointed shape, and in a cool season on a good 
soil they may possibly be excellent, but it seems to be 



206 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



rather a small and thin Rose and hardly likely to be a 
good laster in a general way. It is free blooming and a 
fair autumnal. 

Senateur Vaisse (Guillot, 1859). — Of good growth 
and constitution, and not very liable to injury from 
mildew or rain. The blooms come pretty well with fair 
petals and size, good centre and very bright colour. An 
old Rose that stills holds its own, a free bloomer and 
good autumnal : hardy, fragrant, and not over particular 
as to soil, but must be grown strongly to show its 
brilliant colour at the best. 

Silver Queen (W. Paul and Son, 1888).— Of Victor 
Verdier race, of the same class as Queen of Queens, 
from which it appears to be a lighter coloured sport. 
Very free-flowering, a good autumnal, fragrant, of fine 
form, and attractive colour. 

Sir Garnet Wolseley (Cranston, 1875), see Maurice 
Bernardin. 

Sir Rowland Hill (Mack, 1888). — A sport from 
Charles Lefebvre, which gained the Gold Medal for its 
unusual and most distinct colour. " Deep velvety 
plum " is the general description and, when seen at its 
best, it certainly has a very deep, almost dark blue, 
shade. But it must be grown very strong to show its 
colour to perfection, and more often comes of a dark 
claret or maroon, or even simply crimson ; it is inclined 
to revert to the original and I have cut a good Charles 
Lefebvre from a plant of it. It seems decidedly less 
hardy and strong, and not so good a grower as the type 
from which it sprung : in other respects it has the same 
habit. A Rose of unique colour, but tender, liable to 
orange fungus and requiring high cultivation. 

Souvenir cle Monsieur Boll (Boyau, 1866). — A strong 
hardy grower, with very large full red blooms, very 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



267 



sweet, and occasionally good enough to show, making a 
useful garden Rose. 

Souvenir de la Malmaison (Beluze, 1843). — A well- 
known old favourite, of the true Bourbon race, and aptly 
named as a remembrance of the garden of the Empress 
Josephine where modern Rose culture may be said to 
have taken its rise. Of excellent growth in a good 
climate and soil, always stout and stiff, and free from 
mildew, but the half opened blossoms are injured by 
rain. The shape is flat when expanded, and it cannot 
now be looked upon as a show Rose, but it is very free 
blooming and is noteworthy for the two good qualities 
of the Bourbons, abundant fragrance and excellence in 
the autumn. Indeed it comes often better in Septem- 
ber, as the flowers of the first crop are frequently 
divided and malformed. An excellent garden Rose, or in 
good soil for bedding or massing purposes. A climbing 
sport of it has been introduced from Australia. 

Spenser (W. Paul and Son, 1892). — Of too recent 
introduction to have earned a reliable character, but 
apparently a stouter and fuller Baroness Rothschild, 
with similar growth and habit. Likely to be very 
valuable, if this estimate should be maintained : but, as 
seen up to the present, its additional fulness makes it 
a bad opener in wet weather. 

Star of Waltham (W. Paul and Son, 1875).— Of 
strong growth with magnificent foliage, not very 
liable to mildew but requiring fine weather. This Rose 
cannot be depended upon to come good, but it is a 
splendid bloom when seen at its best, in petal, shape, 
colour, smoothness, size, and lasting qualities. Not 
one of the best as a free bloomer or autumnal, and will 
not answer on poor land ; it requires the best of weather 
to show its qualities to perfection, and should be left 



268 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



long in pruning and the buds not thinned too much, as 
it is extra full and often fails to open properly. 

Sultan of Zanzibar (Paul and Son, 1876). — Similar 
in wood and habit to Duke of Edinburgh and Reynolds 
Hole, but a weaker grower with a very bad constitution. 
This is one of the very few Roses I cannot keep alive at 
all, and I do not think I have once succeeded in getting 
even a decent bloom. A magnificent dark colour, and 
a splendid flower as sometimes shown, but a Rose to be 
avoided as more than likely to give absolutely no 
return. 

Suzanne Marie Pboclocanaclii (Leveque, 1883). — Of 
Victor Verdier race, and requiring therefore no descrip- 
tion here of manners and customs. A noble Rose, 
certainly one of the best, if not actually the best, of 
this important family. The colour is not only bright, 
glowing, and most attractive, but also lasting, a most 
desirable attribute for a show Rose. The growth is good, 
it does well as a standard, is free -flowering and a 
good autumnal, and the blooms are very large and well 
formed, but nearly scentless. A Rose held in high and 
increasing estimation by exhibitors, and worthy of a 
name more suitable to British tongues and pencils. 

Thomas Mills (E. Verdier, 1873).— Of very strong 
growth and good foliage, growing well on all stocks, not 
much liable to mildew or to injury from rain. The 
blooms come well in fine weather, but they are thin 
and most deficient in lasting qualities. The colour is 
very bright scarlet crimson, the shape beautifully 
pointed and imbricated, and the size large : but it is a 
veritable snare for the inexperienced exhibitor, who 
finds it impossible to believe that those glorious half- 
opened flowers are usually not worth taking. It does 
better in cool weather, but the colour and shape are 




H. P. Rose. Ulrich Brunxer. 



To face p. 269. 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



269 



then often deficient. Splendid at times in the garden 
in the early morning, and said to do well in the northern 
counties. A fairly free bloomer, but not a good autumnal, 
many of the secondary shoots running to wood only. 

Ulrich Brunner (Levet, 1881). — A seedling from 
Paul Neyron, of very stout stiff growth and foliage, 
untouched by mildew. The blooms come well, of extra 
large size, with stout petals generally tightly incurved 
in the centre, fine regular smooth shape as a rule, and 
capital lasting qualities, not much injured by rain, 
though the colour soon fades. A great Rose in many 
ways : free blooming and capital in the autumn, hardy 
and of strong constitution and does well almost anywhere 
and on all stocks. When asked to recommend three 
good H.P. standards for cottage gardens, I suggested 
La France, Mrs. John Laing, and Ulrich Brunner, as 
likely to give satisfaction. 

Victor Hugo (Schwartz, 1884). — Of good growth in 
rich soil with distinct foliage, liable to mildew, and 
requiring high cultivation. When " well done by," the 
blooms are very handsome, of fine shape, fair petal and 
centre, glorious colour, and good size. This is a very 
taking sort from the glow of its crimson : the constitu- 
tion seems pretty good on strong soil, and it is fairly 
free blooming in summer and in autumn, but the petals 
are rather thin, and the blooms not very lasting. A 
really fine bloom of this Rose, seen at its best, will 
attract great attention. 

Victor Verdier (Lacharme, 1859). — This Rose has 
probably some admixture in its parentage of a strain 
from the China or Tea groups ; at all events the entire 
habit is most distinct, and it has become, as we have 
seen, the parent of a large and valuable race of smooth- 
wooded Roses, all of which show the family traits in 



270 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



almost every particular. (For a descrijDtion of these 
manners and customs see Countess of Oxford.) The 
majority of those which have been noted are superior 
in some respects to this their common ancestor. 

Viscountess Folkestone (Bennett, 1886). — A Hybrid 
Tea, of fair growth and foliage, doing decidedly better in 
growth and bloom as a standard. A most distinct 
early Rose, of quiet but taking colour : the blooms open 
very quickly, and soon become loose and shapeless, but 
are even then beautiful and highly decorative. When 
the weather is cool, it may sometimes be shown well, if 
cut young and tied up at just the right stage : it becomes 
then a large and fine show Rose with grand petals 
as long as it holds its shape. Very free-flowering, 
fragrant, and a capital autumnal, with the usual 
immunity of Hybrid Teas from mildew and orange 
fungus. 

W. F. Bennett (Bennett, 1885).— A Hybrid Tea, of 
good growth, and crimson colour, thin in petal but very 
free-flowering and sweet-scented. This is a Rose which 
has proved most useful for forcing and cutting in the 
bud state. 

Xavier Olibo (Lacharme, 1864). — Evidently a seed- 
ling from General Jacqueminot, as the wood is very 
similar. A weak grower with poor constitution, not 
liking manetti, and rather liable to mildew, answering 
best if budded annually on the briar either standard or 
cutting, but occasionally doing fairly as a cut-back if 
not moved. This Rose used always to be described as 
" velvety black, shaded with amaranth," a taking de- 
scription especially to those who had hazy ideas of what 
colour " amaranth " is. The word means " fadeless " or 
" everlasting," and seems to have been applied to the 
cockscomb family of flowers because of their lasting 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



271 



qualities. In describing a new Rose of purplish crimson, 
the French raisers therefore called it " amaranthe," i.e. 
" cockscomb colour," a fair description of the shade of 
Xavier Olibo. The blooms come divided sometimes, 
but it is often a fine Rose, with centre sometimes in- 
curved and sometimes with a fine point : a good lasting 
bloom, of full size. It will not answer on poor soil, 
must be well and highly fed, and from its weak growth 
is necessarily not good as a free bloomer or autumnal. 

Climbing - Sports. — Of late years a good many H.P.s, 
as well as some Teas, have made climbing sports, of 
much longer, though not necessarily of stronger, growths 
than the originals. They are not of much value, as 
Roses of other groups, Dijon Teas, Noisettes, &c, are 
usually more suitable for pillars and walls, and the 
blooms are not so good, as close pruning and concen- 
tration is impracticable. Bessie Johnson, Captain 
Christy, Charles Lefebvre, Edouard Morren, Jules 
Margottin, Eugenie Verdier, Monsieur Boncenne, Pride 
of Waltham, Queen of Queens, Souvenir de la Mal- 
maison and Victor Verdier with some other less known 
Roses, have had such sports put into commerce, but 
they are not to be recommended for the open ground. 

Teas and Noisettes. 

The National Rose Society has probably acted wisely 
in cataloguing these two groups under one heading, for 
they have always been united in exhibition schedules, 
and there is already considerable difficulty, which will 
probably increase, of drawing a strict line of demarcation 
between them. 

The Noisettes are hardy, very strong growing 



272 



THE BOOK OF THE HOSE 



CHA*. 



nearly evergreen Roses, blooming in clusters. The 
flowers are naturally quite small, but almost all of them 
have been further crossed with the Tea race, which has 
had the effect of much increasing the size and beauty 
of the blooms, but at the same time rendering the plants 
less hardy and more liable to injury from frost. The 
true Noisette is itself said to be a hybrid between the 
Musk and Tea or China Roses, so that it seems difficult 
to decide what is a pure Noisette. Of those mentioned 
in the N.R.S. Catalogue, Aimee VIbert and Ophirie 
show less of the Tea cross than the others. 

The true and Bybrid Noisettes have a characteristic 
custom, which is shared by the Gloire de Dijon race, of 
blooming from nearly all the buds of the long secondary 
shoots of the previous year, which should be left with 
only the tips shortened. Mam* of these will hardly 
bloom at all if closely pruned. 

The Teas, that is, Roses of the true Tea-scented 
China group, are especially liable to the following bad 
manners : impatience of frost, of rain, and of being 
grown as dwarfs. But these are more than counter- 
balanced by their good qualities, viz. being generally 
freer in the summer from mildew than the H.P.s and 
entirely exempt from orange fungus, nearly all free 
bloomers and the best of autumnals, lasting better than 
H.P.s, and thriving better than they do on light soil. 
All the Teas and Noisettes require dryness and warmth 
in the soil as well as the air : thorough drainage is a 
first essential, and strong heavy land, such as is most 
loved by the majority of H.P.s, is not so much appreciated 
as that which is at the same time highly enriched and 
thoroughly porous. 

Adam (Adam, 1833). — Syn. President (Paul & Son, 
1860). Of poor growth and small reputation. The 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



273 



blooms are large, globular and very sweet, but loose 
and untrustworthy, and the sort is of little value as a 
free-flowerer or autumnal. 

Aimee Vibert (Vibert, 1828). — A true Noisette, 
showing it by its hardiness and clusters of small flowers. 
Very strong growing, rambling, and practically ever- 
green, though a severe winter may destroy the foliage. 
The climbing form should be chosen when it is used 
for pillars or walls, as the original strain was of less 
vigorous growth. The blooms are quite small, full and 
rosette-like, but it is not so effective as a white cluster 
climbing Rose as some of the Ayrshires and Evergreens. 

Alba Rosea (Lartey, 1862), see Madame Bravy. 

Amazone (Ducher, 1872). — Of rather poor slender 
growth, with long pointed buds of a good deep yellow, 
a colour which is still much wanted in this class. 
Some of the Teas are only valued in the bud state, for 
cutting and market purposes, and those that have long- 
slender buds are much more suitable and graceful for 
decoration and wreaths than the globular sorts. They 
are useful for this purpose, even if the shape be poor 
when fully opened. Amazone has however, much 
helped by its colour, been occasionally shown success- 
fully ; but it is very loose and wanting in centre, of 
no value as a free bloomer or autumnal, and can by no 
means be reckoned among the best. 

Anna Olivier (Ducher, 1872). — A good grower with 
bright foliage, but the secondary shoots from the base 
are much stouter and longer than the spring growth. 
It does better as a dwarf than perhaps any other of 
this class : quite as well, many think, as on a standard. 
All the Teas are liable to be spoiled by rain, the petals 
sticking together and then decaying. Those which are 
fullest and stoutest in petal are the worst in this 

T 



274 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



respect, and this Rose, being inclined to be thin and not 
so full as some, does not suffer perhaps so much. The 
blooms usually come well, it being the case with Teas, 
as with H.P.s, that the largest and strongest blooms 
are the most likely to come divided or otherwise 
malformed. A lovely Rose of the charming pointed 
globular shape, and capable of reaching a full size : it 
requires to be grown very strong to be fit for exhibition, 
but is then very effective. The colour varies very 
much, a terra-cotta tint, generally present at the base 
of the petals, sometimes attaining to a more lively 
shade and covering nearly the whole bloom. The 
presence of iron in the soil is said by the Revd. F. R. 
Burnside, a high authority on Tea Roses and an excellent 
exhibitor, to account for the extra prevalence of this 
shade of colour. Not in general a Rose of lasting 
qualities for a Tea, though its extreme freedom of bloom 
throughout the season, vigour of growth, and fair 
amount of hardiness should combine to give it a place 
in almost every list. 

Belle Lyonnaise (Levet, 1869). — A Rose of the Gloire 
de Dijon race, whose manners and customs will be 
described under the name of the head of the family. 
All are inferior to the type in freedom of bloom, and 
some in hardiness ; otherwise they differ only in 
the shades of colour. This is one of the earliest 
descendants of the ever popular Gloire de Dijon ; the 
colour is pale yellow, and the growth fairly hardy. 

Bouquet oVOr (Ducher, 1872). — Another of the same 
family, and one of the best, being quite distinct in colour, 
hardy, and superior in form to the type, sometimes 
good enough to show, a fine yellow with coppery 
centre. This Rose was sent out, perhaps by accident, 
as a Noisette. 



xii MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



275 



Bridesmaid (F. L. Moor, 1893). — A higher coloured 
sport from America of Catherine Mermet, of which no 
reliable character can be given at present. It is already 
extremely promising, and seems likely to take a high 
position, for any good sport from this much-esteemed 
type can hardly fail to be valuable. 

Caroline Kuster (Pernet, 1872). — This is a Hybrid 
Noisette, but for all practical purposes it may be 
classed among the Teas, to which it shows a strong 
affinity, as it is not of climbing growth and will flower 
as freely as any Tea if closely pruned, which other 
Noisettes will not do. Of strong good growth for a 
pure Tea, with small foliage ; the blooms sometimes 
come divided, especially the strongest ones, and they 
are weak in colour, but good in petal, shape, fulness, 
lasting qualities, and size. This is an accommodating 
Rose; a strong established plant in good soil may be 
cultivated, either by slight pruning and not thinning 
the buds, as a most useful bush to " cut and come 
again" at for serviceable pale yellow buds throughout 
the season ; or, by severe pruning and vigorous dis 
budding, to produce a few show blooms of fair quality 
and size, useful for exhibition in any stand. It is very 
free blooming and a good autumnal, doing well as a 
dwarf, and for a Tea Rose decidedly hardy. 

Catherine Mermet (Guillot, 1869). — Of moderate 
growth, with not strong foliage, a little liable to mil- 
dew, and easily injured by rain. The blooms as a rule 
come well, and the amateur who can get some really 
strong shoots and keep the buds dry will generally be 
richly rewarded, for this is one of the finest of Tea Roses 
when grown to perfection. It must be strongly fed, 
and all the power reserved for two or three blooms ; 
then in petal, fulness, size, lasting qualities and lovely 



270 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



shape it is truly a glorious flower, but the colour is more 
fleeting than the shape. The variety should always be 
grown as a standard, as it rarely does really well as a 
dwarf. It is very odd why certain of the Teas, if budded 
on the briar close to or under the ground, do not flower 
so well as when budded on the same stock a little higher 
— even eighteen inches will make a great difference — 
but so it certainly is ; and as even short standards are 
much more difficult to protect effectually in severe 
frost, this little piece of bad manners is especially 
annoying to growers in low districts. A Rose of great 
reputation, and by many considered the highest in 
merit among show Teas. The raisers of new varieties 
bear witness to its good name by the readiness they 
show to class their productions as "in the way of 
Catherine Mermet." But it cannot be called hardy or 
of strong constitution, particularly free in bloom, a good 
autumnal, or able to do anywhere. Three sports of 
this Rose have been issued, all from America, the Bride, 
Waban, and Bridesmaid. As the first of these has 
almost if not quite rivalled the type in popularity and 
reputation, it is to be hoped that the other two, which 
have not yet been sufficiently proved, may prove to be 
as great acquisitions. At present Bridesmaid seems 
much better than Waban. Some other sports are said 
to be in preparation for issue. 

Celine Forcstier (Trouillard, 1858). — Of good growth, 
but not sufficiently lengthy to make a high climber. 
The wood and foliage are very distinct, the latter being 
nearly evergreen, and particularly bright and shining — 
the sort of glazed foliage which appears to be especially 
proof against mildew. It blooms in clusters, which 
should only be lightly thinned, for no treatment can 
make a show Rose of it owing to its flat open shape, and 



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MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



277 



the prettily coloured buds add much to the beauty of 
the truss. A free bloomer and fair autumnal, best as a 
standard ; will sometimes bloom as a maiden or if 
closely pruned, which many of the Noisettes will not 
do ; tolerably hardy, but liable to injury in severe 
frost ; of pretty good constitution, and doing fairly in 
poor soil. 

Cleopatra (Bennett, 1889). — A poor grower, one of 
the worst in this section. The wood is fairly stiff but 
thin as well as short, and it is one of the most difficult 
to propagate as the buds are small and scarce, and to get 
two or three often involves sacrificing nearly the whole 
of the plant. The flower buds are particularly long 
and pointed, and if fair growth can be obtained they 
open into grand blooms, retaining the fine point in the 
centre, with splendid long broad smooth petals most 
symmetrically arranged. A truly magnificent Rose, but 
difficult to grow to perfection ; best as a standard, but 
tender and requiring full protection ; hardly worth grow- 
ing except where the situation and soil are very suitable, 
for though the buds are lovely, it is not free blooming 
enough to be cultivated for their sake, and it will only 
retain its point when expanded where it can be grown 
pretty strongly. 

Cloth of Gold (Coquereau, 1843). — Syn. Chromatella. 
Of strong climbing growth on a south wall, liable to 
mildew, but can probably stand a shower. Here are 
manners, or rather the want of them, with a vengeance, 
for this Rose is unfavourably known as the shyest of all 
bloomers, and though acknowledged to be an excellent 
flower is not to be found in the N.R.S. Catalogue at all. 
A fine plant that I once had in the sheltered angle of a 
south wall only once in eight years flowered at all and 
that was after a very hot summer, when the wood must 



278 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



have been not only ripened but almost roasted. It is 
said, however, by those who used to grow it thirty 
years ago or more that it bloomed freely and well at 
that time, but received a check in a certain severe 
winter which affected the constitution of the whole 
variety. This may be possible, but perhaps jealousy 
was a hidden trait among its manners and customs, and 
that it shut up from envy at sight of the rising star of 
1864, Marechal Niel. It is said to do well still in Ceylon, 
Australia, and other warm places, but in this country it 
does not seem wise to waste time and space upon it. 
It has fine yellow flowers indeed, large and well 
shaped, but not so good as those of its great rival. 
Oddly enough, it may be seen blooming fairly as a 
maiden in the open in some nurserymen's quarters, but 
I have never seen a bloom of it exhibited, and it really 
is not worth growing in the British Isles. 

Comtesse de Nadaillac (Guillot, 1871). — Of dwarf, 
thorny, and, unless thoroughly well treated, weakly 
growth and foliage ; not liable to mildew, but spoiled by 
rain, though more tolerant of it than some. This is a 
Rose which, despite its small growth and generally feeble 
appearance, is commonly considered second to none as 
a show Rose, and it is seldom that a good stand is shown 
without it. The habit of this variety is peculiar, 
though that of Princess of Wales is somewhat similar. 
With almost all other Roses, the finest and strongest 
shoots give the finest blooms, but with this sort it is 
very difficult to tell which will do so. A bud at the end 
of a very small shoot may grow and swell for weeks 
before opening, and will then probably show a bloom 
that not only for beauty, but also for size, will utterly 
eclipse anything that can be produced from even such 
strong rampant growers as Gloire de Dijon or Climbing 



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MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



279 



Devoniensis. If the bud remains hard and well-shaped 
— a perfect smooth cone — and swells slowly even in 
forcing weather, while the stem thickens and stiffens in 
proportion, it is a good sign. On the other hand a thick 
strong, tall, fleshy shoot may open its bud almost at 
once and produce a comparatively poor bloom. It does 
decidedly best in every way as a short standard, but will 
also yield fairly fine flowers as a dwarf. The blooms 
sometimes come divided, but when good they are first- 
rate indeed, in petal, fulness, and shape, and wonderful in 
size and lasting qualities. The colour is lovely, having 
many shades, and like many other Teas, is variable. Mr. 
Prince can show it as a yellow Rose, but this is generally 
when it is too much expanded and the point is gone, pink 
being much more predominant than yellow in my speci- 
mens. The plants are of pretty good constitution, by 
which I mean that they will live and not deteriorate 
for years if well cultivated, and they will stand close 
pruning, but are tender and must be well protected from 
frost. Though they are so dwarf they should not be put 
too close together, for the habit of growth is singularly 
lateral, and the principal shoots of old plants will often 
be nearly horizontal. It is a free-flowering sort for one 
of such dwarf habit, but is not of much use in the late 
autumn unless the weather be very fine and dry. Its 
freedom of bloom is a nuisance to the propagator, as it 
is often difficult to find a sufficiency of buds which have 
not started. 

Comtesse Panisse (Nabonnand, 1877). — Of good growth, 
with stout stiff wood, and fine foliage beautifully 
coloured in the spring, doing well as a dwarf. A very full 
Rose, which therefore will not stand rain and requires 
a hot bright sun. It comes quite large with fine stout 
petals where the growth is good, but the colour is very 



280 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



changeable. It is described by a good authority as 
" rosy buff shaded with carmine and violet," and it 
certainly does come in some situations and very favour- 
able weather with a lovely combination of shades, but 
amateurs will find that a great many of these Tea Roses 
are practically white ; and the reason of this is that 
they are first described as seen under glass properly 
shaded, but out of doors they only open properly in 
bright hot weather, and then the sun " takes the colour 
out." The second crop in autumn is often the best 
coloured with me. Not very free in bloom, but fairly 
hardy for 'a Tea Rose. 

Gomtesse Biza du Pare (Schwartz, 1876). — Of really 
strong growth, with good foliage. This Rose is very 
faulty in form, and a good shaped one is rare indeed. 
It is not large, a free bloomer or a good autumnal, and 
is only noticeable for its colour, which is a charming 
shade of pink, with an indefinable sensation of yellow 
pervading it, especially at the base of the petals. It is 
really not to be recommended, but a good Rose of its 
colour would be heartily welcomed. 

Corinna (W. Paul & Son, 1893).— Too lately intro- 
duced to be spoken of with any certainty. It seems 
very promising in growth, shape, and colour, and has 
been shown well. 

Devoniensis (Foster, 1838) — Of moderate but sturdy 
growth, nearly as thorny as Comtesse de Nadaillac, 
with rather small foliage ; not much liable to mildew, nor 
(as becomes a native of Devon) as impatient of rain as 
some Teas. The strong blooms often come divided, 
but it is pretty good in petal, shape and centre, though 
deficient in size, very tender, and much liable to injury 
from frost. For a long time this was the best English- 
raised Tea Rose and was highly rated, but now seem 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



281 



deteriorating and is seldom exhibited. It is said, 
however, still to grow and bloom well in some favoured 
localities, such as the Isle of Wight. Would probably 
do better as a standard, but is then not easily protected 
from injury in the winter. 

Climbing Devoniensis (Pavitt, 1858). — This seems to 
have been the first of all climbing sports fixed and 
sent out, and till lately was the only such variation 
known among the Teas. It may have been noticed 
that several of the climbing variations among the 
H.P.s are sports of Roses which have quite a short 
growth naturally. This Tea Rose however " out-Herods 
Herod " in differing from the Devoniensis type, which 
is of quite moderate growth, for the climbing variation 
is the strongest, most untidy, and irregular grower we 
have. Growing is its strong point, and it gives so 
much attention to this as sometimes nearly to omit the 
flowering part of the business altogether. A strong 
long shoot of the Gloire de Dijon or Noisette races, 
if laid in well and uninjured by frost, will bloom freely 
all up the rod. Not so Climbing Devoniensis ; away 
it goes again, if in good soil and on a warm wall, from 
the top bud of last year's shoot, and its sole endeavour 
seems to be to get to the top of the wall as quickly as 
possible, and as a plant to look as bare at the base, 
ugly, and lopsided as it can. The great pithy, thorny, 
flowerless shoots are very susceptible to frost, and are 
not handsome at any time. The blooms when they do 
come are no improvement on the type, as they open 
too soon on a wall. I have seen it show better 
manners, growing moderately and blooming freely 
throughout the summer on a south wall where no 
attention was paid to it ; and I believe this desirable 
state of affairs was attained by semi-starvation, but 



282 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



the buds were small and only passable as button- 
holes. 

Dr. Grill (Bonnaire, 1886). — Rather moderate in 
growth, a button-hole Rose only valuable in the bud, 
small, but free-flowering and distinct and attractive in 
colour. 

Elise Fugicr (Bonnaire, 1891). — Of moderate growth, 
highly spoken of at first, but at present not sustaining 
its reputation. Of nice pointed form, but not likely 
to prove first-class. 

Ernest Metz (Guillot, 1888).— Of good growth, stout 
and stiff, with fine foliage, best as a standard. The 
blooms do not come well, a large proportion of the 
finest being often divided and opening badly, and they 
must be sheltered from rain, but it is a very fine large 
Rose when there is no malformation, with strong stout 
petals, good centre, and fair lasting qualities. The stiff 
growth and large leaves show the flowers off well, and 
the plant is fairly hardy, but not very free in flowering. 
It should be left rather long in pruning, and not too 
severely thinned, as the strongest shoots seldom give 
perfect flowers. 

Ethel Brownlow (A. Dickson & Son, 1887).— Not a 
very strong grower, but in this and other respects it 
seems to have decidedly improved, for it was by no 
means a general success with amateurs for the first 
three or four years. Now it is fast rising in reputation, 
and it was plain, when first shown, that it was the best 
example of the imbricated form among Teas, if not 
among all Roses. The blooms come generally regular, 
and the well-formed point in the centre of good perfectly 
imbricated petals, which is the typical form but unfortu- 
nately seldom attained by the full-sized flowers, makes 
it a great favourite with those to whom shape is the first 



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MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



283 



thing. It has very good lasting qualities in form, but the 
freshness of the first colour is very difficult to maintain 
and shading will destroy it. Rather late, and best as a 
standard, it requires fine hot weather, and needs pro- 
tection against rain. Very free-flowering, the buds 
must be well thinned to get exhibition blooms, but are 
charming half-open in themselves. It is certainly one 
of the best of the roses raised in Ireland up to the 
present time, and would be likely to rise still further, 
I think, in general estimation, if the strong flowers 
would keep to the imbricated shape, and the colour 
prove less fleeting. 

Etoile ale Lyon (Guillot, 1881). — This does well as a 
dwarf, and has strong good growth and foliage, but is a 
very disappointing Rose out of doors, having been much 
over-praised. The blooms come generally badly, of con- 
fused and queer shapes, and require as a rule very dry 
warm weather; yet the sort did better, oddly enough, with 
me in the cold wet summer of 1888 than many other Teas. 
A Rose whose performance is not up to its promise ; for 
when you do get a well-shaped and regular bloom from 
a strong and very stout shoot it is surprising how small 
and insignificant it looks when set up beside other Tea 
Roses cut from much slenderer and weaker stems. 
This is partially accounted for, no doubt, by the 
globular shape, and by the outer petals being short, 
and kept well up to the bloom. Those are always the 
most effective shapes, where the outer petals are the 
longest, and stand well away from the flower like great 
wings. As in the ancient sport of Falconry, the short- 
winged Roses are of quite a lower order compared to 
the long-winged ones. It is something of the shape 
and colour of Monsieur Furtado, a very weak variety 
now generally dropped, though larger, as indeed it 



284 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



ought to be considering the great difference in growth. 
Rather liable to mildew, of good lasting qualities when 
dry, it is best under glass and is not suitable for 
extended culture out of doors in our climate. 

Francisco, KriXger (Nabonnand, 1879). — A Rose which 
does not seem to be so well thought of as its many 
excellent qualities deserve. It has good growth and 
foliage, not much liable to mildew, does well as a 
dwarf, and when once it has commenced to expand is 
not much hindered by rain. Though the habit looks 
delicate and is anything but robust, it is quite one 
of the hardiest against frost of all the true Teas, and 
it is very rarely that even the exposed portions of my 
plants are killed. It comes occasionally divided, mal- 
formed, or even with a green eye, but is often very 
perfect in form. A very free bloomer and a good 
autumnal ; the small buds are lovely both in colour and 
shape, and a strong plant, well thinned and attended 
to, is capable of producing very fine exhibition blooms, 
large, very lasting, and of capital pointed form. A 
beautiful Rose, of variable and changeable colour, strong 
large specimens when fully out often showing an 
attractive shade of yellow through all the inner petals. 

Gloire de Dijon (Jacotot, 1853). — Perhaps the best 
known of all Roses. There can be little doubt that this 
is not a pure Tea, but has a cross in it of some other 
race, for the plant is absolutely hardy, of very vigorous 
climbing growth, and the foliage is unlike that of the 
Tea-scented China, and more like that of the Hybrid 
Tea Grace Darling. Like the Noisettes, Roses of this 
race must not have the strong young shoots pruned 
back or wood instead of flowers will be produced : but 
when this is understood no Rose save the common China 
or " Monthly " blooms so profusely and constantly, early 



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MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



285 



and late, as the one under notice. Dean Hole says, 
" Were I condemned to have but one Rose for the rest 
of my life, I should ask, before leaving the dock, to be 
presented with a strong plant of Gloire de Dijon." 
Exhibitors are often blamed for neglecting Roses of 
real sterling merit like this one for those of weaker 
growth, but though it has indeed many merits it is not 
a show flower. A plant of Gloire de Dijon may be a 
hundred times the size of one of Comtesse de Nadaillac, 
and may have more than a hundred times the number 
of blooms ; but take the finest Gloire de Dijon that 
ever was seen and set it in a stand by a fair representa- 
tive bloom of the other, and the great inferiority in 
every respect, even in size, would at once be manifest. 
The foliage is very fine indeed but not so evergreen as 
that of Marechal Niel and some other of the Noisettes, 
nor does it clothe the bases of the branches so well as 
Reve d'Or. It is not liable to mildew, cares little for 
rain, and its bushels of blooms come very true to shape 
which is weak to a florist's eye, and unusually uniform 
in colour. Last, but by no means least, among its good 
qualities, it will grow and flourish almost anywhere 
and anyhow, tolerably well even on a north wall. A 
Rose of such notoriety, which forms seed vessels freely, 
has naturally been a prolific parent of varieties of similar 
manners and customs, forming a race, almost a class, in 
themselves. All of them are decidedly inferior to the 
type in freedom of bloom, and many are not so 
hardy. Otherwise they differ only in colour, in different 
shades of yellow, salmon and white. Many have been 
raised on the Continent of late years, but few are of real 
value. Among the best are Belle Lyonnaise, Bouquet 
d'Or, Duchesse d'Auerstadt, Emilie Dupuy, Henriette 
de Beauveau, Kaiserin Friedrich, Madame Berard, 



280 



THE BOOK i >F THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



Madame Chauvry and Madame Eugene Verdier, but 
there are many others -till in commerce. 

If .; ■ •• (Robert. LS59). — Of very strong growth, with 
fair foliage, but more suited for a pillar than a wall, and 
best as a big bush. I have never heard any doubts 
about this being a pure Tea. but it is of unique habit 
and manners, perfectly hardy, very vigorous and of 
strong constitution, and I wonder we have had no 
seedlings from it. It is not liable to mildew and but 
little injured by rain, does well as a dwarf, is a free 
bloomer and capital in the autumn, pretty in colour, 
but small in size. It is hard to prove a negative, and I 
will not say Homere never comes perfectly shaped, 
because I have heard of one or two though I have not 
seen them. Its bad manners in this respect are the 
more aggravating, because each bloom has the promise 
of a beautiful shape but marred by a malformation. 
As often happens, the strongest blooms are the mc st 
imperfect, and the buds should be cut small before 
their promise is spoiled. The exhibitor will have none 
of it, but for button-holes and bouquets he cannot deny 
it the despised epithet of " pretty." A capital cottage 
garden Eose. doing well anvwhere. 

Hon. Edith Gifford (Guillot, 1882). — Of good stout 
stiff but not long growth, with fine foliage, liable to mil- 
dew in the autumn, and requiring protection from rain. 
A very good Tea Eose indeed, an unusually large propor- 
tion of the blooms coming good, of hue shape, petal, 
centre and size. It is thoroughly reliable, an excellent 
show Eose. one of the earliest, very free blooming, a 
good autumnal and does excellently as a dwarf. A 
good Eose. and a " good doer." giving little trouble and 
ample returns. 

Innocente Pirola (Ducher, 1878). — Only fair in growth 



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MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



287 



and foliage ; requires rich soil and in many places does 
not do well as a dwarf ; rather liable to mildew, 
but for a white Tea Rose little injured by rain. The 
blooms come well, and the typical shape is unique, one 
of the most perfect we have, something like the whorl 
of a shell. Fairly free in bloom, and lasting, but not 
often very large till overblown. A first-class Rose, fine 
in petal and centre, it should be a great favourite with 
those purists (with whom I have much sympathy) who 
insist upon regularity and perfection of shape as the 
one thing desirable above all others. 

Isabella Sprunt (Verschaffelt, 1867). — Not a strong 
grower, a button-hole Rose, of light yellow colour ; the 
buds are well pointed and effective for wear or 
decoration. 

Jean Ditcher (Ducher, 1874). — Of strong stout stiff 
growth, with good foliage ; does well as a dwarf and is 
not liable to mildew, but perhaps the most sensitive ol 
all Roses to wet or rain. It must have dry weather 
even when yet a hard bud as soon as it shows any 
colour, or it will not come to any good. The very 
strongest buds are apt to come rough or divided, but 
as a rule they do pretty well if the weather continues 
dry, and when a fine bloom does come at last it is 
grand in shape, petal, centre, size, colour, and lasting 
qualities. It is a free-bloomer, good in a dry autumn 
and fairly hardy for a Tea Rose. The colour is variable ; 
sometimes there is a good deal of salmon-pink about 
it, especially on the outside ; rarely it is quite yellow 
except the actual outside petals, and then generally 
very fine; when overblown the blooms have a good 
deal of red in them, and are very decorative at a little 
distance. Ruby Gold, a Rose sent out from America, 
appears to be identical with Jean Ducher. 



288 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



Josephine Malton, see Madame Bravy. 

Jules Finger (Ducher, 1879). — Of good growth with 
fair foliage; does well as a dwarf but better as a 
standard, not liable to mildew and can stand a shower. 
The blooms generally come well, but the shape is not 
a refined one, the centre petals being generally in- 
curved, whereas we expect the more elegant pointed 
form in a Tea Rose. Pretty good as a free-bloomer and 
autumnal, not very large, and aggravating in colour. 
This is fairly good and pure when the flower first 
opens, but it will not hold it when cut, and if kept too 
long, for it has a lasting shape, it turns to a livid hue, 
which almost tempts one to use the word " ugly." 
Note that there is a Julius Finger among the H.P.s., a 
light-coloured flower of little merit. 

La Boule J Or (Margottin, 1860). — Of short, almost 
dwarf, but stiff and stout growth, with good foliage : 
not liable to mildew, but being extra full it is a very 
slow opener and will not stand any wet. It does pretty 
well as a dwarf, but better as a short standard on a 
south wall, and the blooms come fairly well but 
occasionally divided. This is a Rose of very fine large 
petals, which give it great value for show purposes, but 
it has rather a bad name as one that will not open. 
Starvation, and even the cutting of the roots when the 
buds are well formed, have been recommended, but I 
would rather advise good treatment, the warmest 
possible situation, protection from rain, and patience. 
It is seldom of any use as an autumnal, but is free- 
blooming, capable of reaching a large size, and of 
extraordinary lasting qualities. I have seen a strong- 
bloom on a south wall, exposed to a cloudless July sun, 
take nearly a week to open fully. The typical shape, 
as the name implies, has a round ball in the centre 



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MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



289 



but fortunately it more often comes with a fine point, 
and it is then sometimes grand, the great petals stand- 
ing out stiff and strong, and making it a splendid 
sample of a long- winged Rose. It is advisable to bud 
from shoots which have given pointed blooms. " Bright 
golden yellow " is the general description and the true 
colour, but this shade is unattainable out of doors, as 
it will not open without a good deal of sun, which 
makes the colour much paler. When a sunny time 
follows after cold wet weather, such of the buds as 
survive will open much more quickly than usual. 
Grand under glass, as the constitution and growth are 
good for a pot Rose, and it is easily propagated. 

Lamar que (Marechal, 1830). — A Noisette, which was 
highly prized forty years ago, when varieties were few. 
Of very strong climbing growth on a warm wall, with 
bright but small foliage not liable to mildew and not 
thoroughly evergreen. The blooms are large and 
effective, but open and flat, not fit for show, and liable 
to injury from rain. It flowers with great freedom 
once, but the second crop on a wall is small. Very 
sweet indeed, the fragrance being most distinct. It is 
not hardy, but is pretty safe on a south wall against 
anything but exceptional frost. Said to be the parent 
of Cloth of Gold. 

L'ldM (Nabonnand, 1887). — A Noisette of good 
growth, but not a vigorous climber. A button-hole 
Rose, of good shape in the bud, but very loose when 
expanded. Noted for its colour or colours, which are 
" extensive and peculiar," and very difficult to describe. 
Almost all shades of red and yellow seem at times to 
be mingled in its quaintly tinted buds. 

Luciolc (Guillot, 1886). — A Tea Rose of rather poor 
growth, and again a button-hole Rose, with good long 

U 



290 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



buds most charmingly tinted. A really beautiful bud, 
but a button-hole Rose should be a strong grower and 
very free-flowering, or it is not likely to survive as one 
of the fittest. 

Ma Cajntcine (Levet, 1871). — Another weakly grow- 
ing button-hole Tea Rose, most charming in colour. 
The buds are quite small, and not particularly long or 
pointed, but sure to attract notice. These Roses should 
all be grown, as standards, by any one who makes a 
specialty or collection of Bud-Roses, but as there is a 
sufficiency of strong-growing free-flowering button-hole 
varieties, such weakly growers should generally be 
avoided. 

Madame Angele Jacquier (Guillot, 1879).— Of fair 
average growth, doing pretty well as a dwarf but better 
as a standard, and requiring rich soil and high culture 
for show uses. The blooms come pretty well, though 
sometimes divided, and a good exhibition flower may 
often be obtained, of fine petals, nice pointed shape, 
and full size. The colour is not striking, and however 
it may be described it is more white than anything else 
when grown out of doors. At one time this Rose was 
highly esteemed, but it has, probably from its feeble 
colour, gone out of favour and dropped out of the 
N.R.S. catalogue. 

Madame Berard (Levet, 1870). — One of the numerous 
descendants of Gloire de Dijon, the majority of which 
do not seem worthy of separate notice. This one is 
placed in the N.R.S. catalogue as a show Rose, but it 
is very seldom seen well exhibited. It is a beautiful 
colour, and certainly better shaped than most of its 
family, but is not as free -flowering or as hardy as the 
type. 

Madame Bravy (Guillot, 1848), syns: Alba Rosea, 



I 




Tea-Kose, Madame Cusin. 



To face p. 291. 



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MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



291 



Josephine Malton, and Madame de Sertot. Of average 
growth and fair foliage, very sweet, growing pretty 
well as a dwarf, but perhaps giving better flowers as a 
standard. The blooms come very well, but the shape 
is absolutely globular, almost like an incurved chrysan- 
themum, and such a form requires the utmost regularity, 
and shows at a glance the slightest imperfection. The 
wood is pliable, and the blooms are therefore pendent, 
and can only be seen in perfection when artificially 
supported in a vase or Rose-stand. A very free- 
bloomer, requiring a good deal of thinning, but the 
autumnal buds rarely expand fully. It is of large size 
for the growth of the shoots, but owing to the globular 
shape and very short outer petals loses much in this 
respect when compared with other Roses, " long-winged " 
as I have called them, whose outer petals are large and 
stand well away. This Rose seems to have deteriorated 
somewhat of late years ; it is certainly much less shown 
than it used to be, but perhaps this is simply from its 
becoming superseded for the reasons mentioned. 

Madame Charles (Damaizin, 1864). — An improved 
strain of Safrano, which see. 

Madame Chddane Guinoisseau (Leveque, 1880). — This 
is another of the button-hole Roses of moderate growth. 
The buds are pointed and well shaped, and the colour 
is bright yellow, a shade not sufficiently represented 
among exhibition Teas. 

Madame Cusin (Guillot, 1881). — Of short, thick, and 
often weak growth, with distinct wood and small 
foliage. It is rather liable to mildew and requires hot 
dry weather. Much better as a standard, from which a 
fine maiden bloom may sometimes be cut, but it is 
difficult to grow well and requires very good treatment. 
The blooms almost always come well, though they are 

U 2 



292 



THE BOOK OF THE R< >sE 



CHAP. 



often undersized, and the shape is unique and very 
good, with a fine point in the centre, and the petals 
arranged in imbricated form, but standing well apart 
from one another. This is the true form, but large 
flowers sometimes do not show it. No dressing for 
exhibition is required for this Rose, which naturally 
shows itself to the best possible effect. Very free- 
flowering : it must be well thinned for the production 
of exhibition blooms, but even the small flowers are 
lovely and of good lasting quality. A fine colour 
sometimes, but this is not often very lasting. 

Madame dc Wattcvilh (Guillot, 1883). — A notable 
and most distinct Rose, in habit and flower. The 
growth as a dwarf is frequently poor, and it is decidedly 
best as a standard. It is somewhat capricious, and 
some good growers have but little success with it : 
indeed, for the first few years of its existence it was, I 
think, only shown in its full beauty by one Rosarian, 
but several of the leading exhibitors are able to grow 
wonderful blooms of it now. They come well even 
though the buds be crinkled and apparently badly 
shaped, and it is . quite a type of the " long- winged " 
Roses, the great petals standing out well, and giving it 
a most effective appearance. It is, in fact, perhaps 
more distinct in shape than any Rose. Liable to 
mildew, and very tender in hard frost ; a free-bloomer 
of most charming buds, but these must be thinned 
with an unsparing hand to see the Rose in perfection 
It is of large size if grown as it should be, well able to 
hold its own with H.P.s in a mixed class, and excellent 
in every good quality. Fair in a dry autumn, but 
having serious demerits in its uncertainty of growth 
and want of hardiness. 

Madame Eugene Verdier (Levet, 1883). — Apparently 




Tea-Rose, Madame de Watteville. 



To face p. 202. 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



293 



a " Dijon" rose, with the manners and customs of the 
family. The best coloured of them all, being really a 
good yellow. The blooms are not very large, though 
full and good, and it is not so free-flowering or anything 
like so hardy as its parent, as it is one of the tenderest 
of Roses. Late in flowering, and best in autumn. 
Note that there is a H.P. of exactly the same name. 

Madame Falcot (Guillot, 1858). — A button-hole Rose, 
of fair growth and foliage, useful in the bud state only. 
It is somewhat like Safrano, of deeper and brighter 
colour, and altogether better in bloom, but less hardy, 
of less vigorous growth, and not so free-flowering. A 
lovely bud, the exterior of the outer petals having often 
the most charming combinations of red and yellow, the 
inner petals being of a beautiful self-yellow. A good 
autumnal, but does not do well as a dwarf, and requires 
protection in the winter. 

Madame Hvppolyte Jamain (Guillot, 1869). — Of good 
growth strong enough for a low wall, which suits it well 
— not liable to mildew and can stand just a shower. 
The blooms come late and generally well, though 
occasionally divided, and the flower stalks are pliable, so 
that the blooms are completely pendent. The real 
beauty of the flowers is thus quite concealed on the 
plant, and few who have only seen it as growing would 
believe what a beautiful flower it is when properly 
shown at the right stage. At this period the outer 
petals fall well down when the bloom is held up, 
showing the purest glistening white on their inner 
sides, and a most charmingly tinted and shaped conical 
centre. Afterwards, in very hot weather or on a wall, 
it expands to quite a flat shape with a much yellower 
colour, and many would not recognise it as the same 
Rose ; but it may be thoroughly depended on to last 



294 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



when cut in the right condition, for it requires fine hot 
weather to open at all, and was grand in the open beds 
in the summer of 1893. It does well as a dwarf in the 
matter of growth, but is best as a dwarf standard on a 
wall facing east or west, and will then often be found 
not too early for the exhibitions, for it is a late bloomer. 
It is only fairly floriferous, requires too much heat 
to be a good autumnal, and is not really of a large 
size ; but the spread of the fine outer petals makes 
this and Roses of similar shape appear to the utmost 
advantage and larger than they really are. Note that 
there is a large light-coloured H.P. of exactly the same 
name as this Rose. 

Madame Hoste (Guillot, 1887). — Of good growth and 
fine foliage, doing pretty well as a dwarf but better as a 
standard. The flowers are rather thin, and though 
they stand a long time in the advanced bud stage, when 
once open they soon go, showing a weak centre. They 
are very large and well shaped in cool weather, making 
a showy appearance in rich soil, and are very effective 
in autumn, being often at that time larger and deeper 
in colour. It is not a useful colour, as we have plenty 
of pale yellows, and want something more deep and 
decided in that shade. With stouter petals, fuller 
centre, and richer colour it would be a more notable 
Rose, but is much esteemed as it is. 

Madame Lambard (Lacharme, 1877). — Of strong 
hardy growth with fair foliage, rather liable to mildew, 
but being a thin rose is less subject to injury from rain 
than many other Teas. The blooms come generally 
well, but the strongest are sometimes divided ; they are 
thin in petal, not very large, and rather wanting in 
centre : must be grown strongly on rich soil to be well 
shown, and are not lasting flowers. A cool-season Rose 



XII 



Manners and customs 



295 



very free-flowering, but often of little account in July 
when other Teas which can stand the hot sun are to be 
had. In the late autumn Madame Lambard is a friend 
indeed. If it be cold and wet the " thin " Tea Roses alone 
will open, and this one will be found among the freest 
and best. It does well as a dwarf, and is remarkable 
for its extreme variation in colour — some blooms of a 
bright light red, others of salmon, and others of rosy 
buff or lighter may occasionally all be found on the 
same plant at once. 

Madame Margottin (Guillot, 1866). — Of fine sturdy 
growth with good foliage. It does well as a dwarf, but 
the flowers are very easily spoiled by rain, as this is a 
Rose of the opposite extreme to the one last mentioned. 
It is very full with thick petals, refusing to open except 
in hot dry weather and consequently though free of 
bloom it is generally of no use as an autumnal. The 
blooms come very badly being often divided, and 
sometimes " quartered," i.<\ with two rifts or divisions 
right across the flower. A perfect one is not often seen, 
but is very good, when found at last, in shape, colour, 
size, and especially in lasting qualities. 

Madame Willermoz (Lacharme, 1845). — Of very 
sturdy stout growth with splendid foliage : an old Rose, 
formerly of considerable repute, but getting fast 
superseded by those of better manners. It is full of 
abundant promise in its exuberant foliage, but generally 
sadly lacking in the production of handsomely shaped 
useful blooms when the critical time comes. The 
petals are very fine but the form is not good, those on 
the outside keeping up as tight to the bloom as 
possible, and a well-defined point in the centre being 
often absent. This is the worst shape for exhibition, as 
it makes the bloom appear smaller than it really is, and 



290 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



a strong temptation arises to " dress " Madame Wille- 
rnoz, or rather, say, to persuade her to unmask, by 
bending down the outside petals. The effect is very 
great, for not only does it make the bloom more of the 
shape of which Rosarians approve and the size aj^pear 
considerably larger, but also the inside of the petals is 
naturally of a much purer and cleaner white than the 
outside : and thus, by this simple process, the Rose 
appears larger, better shaped., and of purer colour. It 
is however distinctly " altering the character " of the 
Rose, and the X.R.S. is probably right in setting its face 
against the presentation of any bloom in a shape which 
it never naturally assumes. On rare occasions it does 
open well in hot weather with a good point in the centre, 
and is then very fine. It does well as a dwarf, the stiff 
upright character of the wood being well suited to this 
term of culture. It cannot be called a free-bloomer or 
good autumnal, or be generally recommended. 

Mareclud Xid (Pradel, 1864).— Of very strong 
climbing growth, with magnificent foliage, practically 
evergreen, but as liable to mildew as any in this class. 
The blooms come often divided and discoloured on 
standards in the open, much better on a wall though 
losing colour in hot sun. and nearly always perfect under 
glass. A most splendid Rose, the best of all the yellows, 
and with strung claims to be called the epieen of all 
Roses. It is grand inpetal. centre, shape, colour, fragrance, 
lasting qualities, and size : a very free bloomer, and 
though on a Avail the second blooms are not numerous, 
it flowers throughout the season on standards where these 
can be grown in the open. Very many of our best 
R- ■>!•> lose their colour soon after being cut ; but Marechal 
Xiel decidedly improves, and becomes of a deeper yellow 
after being kept for a day or two in water. It was sent out 



Hybrid Noisette Rose, Marechal Kiel. To face p. 297. 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



297 



as a Noisette, and, like all the Roses of that class, the 
best blooms come on the long strong secondary shoots 
of the previous year, which should be left nearly of full 
length ; but it is evidently hybridised with the Tea race, 
as what is generally called the Tea scent is strongly 
present. To a large extent it stands by itself, as do several 
of the most celebrated Roses, Cloth of Gold probably 
resembling it most nearly. Though often grown on its 
own roots in pots, for it strikes freely as a cutting, it 
does much better if budded either high or low on the 
briar. It is decidedly tender, being liable in the open 
to be injured or killed outright by severe frosts ; but on 
a Avail, particularly if there be anything in the nature of 
a coping above, it will stand ordinary winters in most 
localities. It is easily forced, and much grown for the 
market, the best method of pruning and training under 
glass to get a fine crop of these splendid blooms in early 
spring having been described on page 95. Mildew in 
this mode of culture is the principal trouble, and the 
ventilators should be kept entirely shut when the wind is 
cold. The variety has another piece of bad manners, 
which is most troublesome under glass because there is 
more growth there, viz. a liability to canker, especially at 
the point of juncture between stock and scion. As this 
probably arises from the inability of the briar stem to 
swell sufficiently for the growth of the Rose, a useful 
preventive measure is to make one or two longitudinal 
cuts through the bark, passing through the point of 
union, and extending some distance above and beloAv it. 
This will not cure established canker, but may help in 
a great measure to prevent and modify it. In a really 
bad case it is best not to attempt a cure. Good strong 
young plants are cheap and soon come into bearing ; but, 
when putting in a new plant where a large Rose has 



298 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



stood,, remember to take out a good deal of the old soil, 
and replace with rich fresh stuff in which Roses have not 
been grown. I know of no seedling or sports of Marechal 
Niel. though weak blooms on a hot wall will sometimes 
show red on the outer petals. 

Mark van Houtte (Ducher. 1871). — The strongest 
and best in growth of any of the pure Teas, with tine, 
nearly evergreen, foliage. A cooler time after hot 
weather, which is most favourable for all Roses, will 
show Marie van Houtte at its best, and it is but little 
injured by ram. In manners and customs and all round 
good qualities it must take first prize among the Teas : 
at all times a beautiful bloom, in perfection most lovely, 
excellent in petal, fulness, shape, lasting qualities and 
size, and delightful in colour, very free in bloom and a 
first-class autumnal. It does perfectly well as a dwarf, 
is not particular as to soil, and is undoubtedly the one 
Tea Rose no one should be without. 

Malta (W. Paul and Sun. 1891). — A new Rose, the 
cut blooms looking like full specimens of Madame 
Hoste : a good grower and free in flowering, but nut 
likely to open well in wet weather. 

Mrs. James Wilson (A. Dickson and Sons, 1889). — 
Of good growth when established, and fair foliage. The 
habit is peculiar, in that the centre or crown bud of a 
shoot is quite overwhelmed and starved out by the growth 
of the side flower buds unless these be thinned out at 
once : and even when this is done, the bud does not 
grow proportionately to the thickness of the shoot, and 
the blooms are rather undersized and disappointing. 
The petals are good and the shape nicely pointed : it- is 
late hi blooming, and not many flowers come to perfection 
on one plant. A pretty colour, sometimes a little like 
that of Marie van Houtte. 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



299 



Monsieur Furtado (Laffay, 1866). — This Rose still 
appears in the N.R.S. catalogue ; but the growth is very 
weak, the flowers small and short-petalled, and though 
the colour is a good yellow it is certainly a Rose to be 
avoided. 

Niphetos (Bougere, 1844). — This Rose is a good in- 
stance of what is termed " free " growth, i.e. neither 
long nor stout, but branching and generally growing 
somewhere. The foliage is good and not much liable to 
mildew, but the blooms will not stand rain. This old 
Rose has attained a very great reputation for its 
free-flowering qualities and its purity of colour. I do 
not know how many thousand feet run of glasshouses 
have been maintained for the purpose of growing 
the rose which Mons. Bougere, the raiser, appropriately 
named Niphetos (" snowy "), but I apprehend the figures 
would very much have astonished him could he have 
known them when he issued it, and he would perhaps 
have wished to attach his own name to it instead of to 
the much less valuable production (Bougere) of twelve 
years before. White flowers are always in special de- 
mand, not only because they are lovely in themselves, 
do not lose their colour, and go well with everything, 
but also because they are considered the most appro- 
priate on the three great occasions of birth, marriage, and 
death. It so happens that Niphetos, the purest of all white 
Roses, has a long bud especially suitable for bouquets 
and wreaths, and is also free-flowering and bears forcing 
well. It is no wonder therefore that it is, and has been, 
cultivated for market purposes to an astonishing extent. 
It is also capable of being exhibited as a Rose of great 
merit, with very fine petals and of the largest size ; but 
in this respect it seems to have deteriorated or been 
superseded, as it is certainly not so often shown now as 



300 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



formerly. The blooms coroe well, but occasionally they 
are divided, and the expanded shape is very loose. 
They must be cut young for show (when there is often 
a greenish lemon tinge in the strong young buds which 
is very becoming) as the shape is not lasting, and when 
the outside petals come down they fall completely, 
giving the idea of a total collapse. It is free blooming 
throughout the season, but the autumnal buds do not 
come large and require fine weather. It does not do as 
a dwarf, for the blooms come smaller, and the wood being 
neither stiff nor upright the petals get much injured by 
wind and rain unless the flowers are well held up above 
the ground. It is best for exhibition as a maiden 
standard, and does well, if fully fed, on a low wall. 

A climbing sport (Keynes, Williams, and Co., 1889") 
gives promise of being very valuable for the production 
of cut flowers of this ever useful sort : but it does not 
seem yet to be thoroughly established, sometimes 
reverting to the old type and refusing to '■'run.'"' Still, 
it has undoubtedly proved a success in many places, the 
long rods blooming from every bud after the fashion of 
Marechal Niel, though it is as yet too early to say 
whether the new form will supersede the old one in the 
forcing of this popular Rose. 

Ophirie (Goubault, 1841). — A true Xoisette, one of the 
very few that can be so called. A strong, long, rapid 
grower of vigorous constitution and quite hardy, with 
abundant but not evergTeen foliage, blooming in clus- 
ters of queerly coloured and still more queerly shaped 
flowers. They are very small and nearly always 
" quartered," which seems indeed the normal shape : and 
the variety is only noticeable for its quaint coppery red 
colour, whichl have always imagined somehow or other to 
be the source of that shade wherever it appear.- in our Tea 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



301 



Roses. It should be pruned very little, merely cutting 
out any dead wood, and is then free-blooming and a 
good autumnal, but the plant is only worth growing as 
a curiosity or from old associations. 

Perle des Jar dins (Levet, 1874). — Of good stout stiff 
growth, with reddish wood and fine foliage, doing well 
as a dwarf, but a Rose of shocking bad manners. We 
want much a well-shaped Tea of a good decided yellow 
to take the place of Marechal Niel when it is off bloom ; 
and Perle des Jardins is always promising to do this, 
and very, very seldom doing it. It comes divided, or 
quartered, or malformed in some way almost to a cer- 
tainty during the summer, but manages to stave off 
execution of just judgment by the aid of better shajDed 
and far more valuable blooms in the autumn. At that 
season it will often prove the only available sort which 
is really yellow, and even one bloom of this colour will 
make a wonderful improvement in a bouquet of autumn 
Roses. It comes better under glass and would probably 
do well in a hot climate, but is worth growing for its 
autumnal bloom alone. 

A climbing sport of this Rose (Henderson, 1891) has 
been issued, but so lately that I can give no certain 
account of it. There is also a white sport called White 
Perle. 

President (Paul and Son, 1860), see Adam. 

Princess Beatrice (Bennett, 1887). — A poor grower, 
with a delicate constitution. It is one of the veiy 
earliest, and grows rapidly enough till the bloom has 
formed, and after that has passed often stands almost quite 
still, making neither growth nor bloom during the rest of 
the season. It must have very fine dry weather, and 
even then is not much good out of doors ; but it is a 
well-shaped bloom, with lovely colour, though not large, 



302 THE BOOK OF THE ROSE chap. 

when grown under glass. There is a H.P. rose (W. Paul 
& Son, 1872) of this name. 

Princess of Wales (Bennett, 1882). — Of small dwarf 
growth, and foliage, requiring fine weather. This Rose, 
though unlike in stem and wood, has something of the 
manners and customs of Comtesse de Nadaillac. A 
small stem will sometimes grow, stiffen, and swell for a 
long time without opening the bud, which when it does 
come will be a great and probably a good Rose, while a 
much stronger shoot of three times its length perhaps 
remains pliable, opens quickly, and produces a much 
inferior bloom. The shape of the smaller flowers is 
weak and undecided, but there is no doubt about its 
beauty in form and every other quality when it does 
come good, though it is seldom very large. It is 
variable in colour, and is somewhat capricious, doing 
well in some soils and badly in others, but generally 
best as a standard. There is certainly one H.P. of this 
name, if not two. 

Reve d'Of (Ducher. 1869). — A very strong climbing 
Noisette, with stout and rapid growth and nearly ever- 
green foliage. This valuable Rose has one most desirable 
piece of good manners as a climber. Other Noisettes 
and Roses of the Gloire de Dijon race are apt, when 
grown on a wall, to become weak and bare in foliage 
towards the bottom, so that all the blooms are out of 
reach and the plants look unsightly from the naked 
appearance of the lower branches. This is not the case 
with Reve d'Or, and it adds considerably to its merit 
as a climber that the lower parts of the plant are fairly 
clothed with blooms and foliage. It is not liable to mil- 
dew, and can stand a little rain as well as most. The 
blooms come in clusters, well shaped, of much the same 
colour as Safrano and Sunset, but not lasting or large 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



303 



enough for exhibition. It is wonderful as a free bloomer, 
the plant being smothered with flowers from top to bot- 
tom during the first crop, and a fair amount of blooms 
continue into the autumn. It is quite hardy, makes a 
good standard, and is to my mind one of the very best 
of climbing Roses. Not so large as Gloire de Dijon, nor 
quite so good as a continuous bloomer early and late, 
but superior to it in manner of growth for covering a 
wall. 

Rubens (Robert, 1859). — A good grower, producing 
strong clean shoots with very fine foliage, and quite 
capable as a short standard of covering the wall of a 
one-storied building. It is not liable to mildew, and 
the blooms, which are slightly pendent, can stand a little 
rain. They can be generally relied on to come of good 
shape, but the petals are thin and the form fleeting. 
The fine half-open buds are well supported by grand 
foliage, but the flowers are difficult to exhibit well as they 
look weak and unsubstantial when shown with other 
Teas. It is pretty hardy, best as a standard and in cool 
weather : capital, early and late, against a dwarf wall : 
very free blooming and a good autumnal, thriving well 
on lightish soil. 

Safrano (Beauregard, 1839). — Of very strong growth 
with fair foliage, quite hardy, sweet scented, not liable to 
mildew, and hardly minding rain at all. This old Rose is 
very free blooming, but small and thin and quite weak and 
open in the centre. It is only useful for button-holes, and, 
like all thin Teas, is especially valuable in the late autumn. 
When not another Rose is to be found anywhere from 
the cold and wet, a Safrano on a wall will come to 
the rescue. Of good constitution and ready to thrive 
anywhere, growing almost wild in the Riviera. It is of 
the same colour as Reve d'Or and Sunset, but the buds 



304 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



have sometimes the lovely red tinge of Madame Falcot. 
In fact, Madame Charles, Madame Falcot, and Safrano 
are very much alike in bloom, the first of these three 
giving the finest flowers. 

Solfaterre (Boyau, 1843). — A Xoisette of strong 
climbing growth with large open loose blooms of little 
merit. It is tender, not so good as Lamarque, a poor 
autumnal, and would probably never have been heard 
of if it had been raised at a later date. 

Souvenir d'fflise Vardon (Marest, 1854). — Not of free 
growth or of good constitution, but there ought to be at 
least one jjretty strong shoot on each plant : not 
liable to mildew, but easily injured by rain. The 
blooms come generally well, though sometimes divided, 
and when it is fine on a strong shoot and taken at the 
right stage you have to my thinking the finest and best 
of all show Roses, either H.P. or Tea. It is getting 
quite an old Rose now, but, though new ■ sorts are issued 
every year by scores, nothing has yet been raised to 
surpass or even equal it. If the medal for the best Tea 
Rose at an exhibition goes to another variety, it will be 
simply because Elise at its best is not there. It blooms 
early, as in fact do all the Teas, but they come again, 
while it takes a long time to work up fresh shoots to 
produce this grandest of Roses, and the second blooms 
never equal the first ; but when the season is late 
enough for it to be shown in anything like perfection, 
no successful rival in any stand or competition has yet 
been found. It does rather better as a standard, but is 
tender against frost and quite capable of being grown 
to perfection as a dwarf. In freedom of bloom it is not 
good, for the blooms come singly, and the very weak 
shoots will not flower at all. The growth is shy and 
the constitution delicate. It is not a Rose suitable for 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



305 



garden purposes, but the sort for enthusiasts, with 
whom one perfect glorious bloom is worth a garden full 
of ordinary flowers. Every possible care should be 
bestowed in watching and protecting the bud, and 
diligently and highly feeding the plant until the medal 
bloom, the queen of the show, is cut. 

Souvenir de Paul Xeyron (Levet, 1871). — Of rather 
weak growth with small foliage, though occasionally 
a plant will grow pretty well. The first blooms often 
come badly, but with careful thinning of the buds some 
may be got of a good shape, with a glistening colour, 
and large size considering the smallness of the stems ; 
but the plant is difficult to please and will not often 
do well as a dwarf, and being fairly hardy succeeds 
better as a standard. It is a good autumnal where it 
will grow sufficiently, and very free-flowering in the 
season, every wood bud all over the plant trying to 
grow as soon as the flower buds are formed. This 
habit, which is more or less common to many of the 
free-flowering Teas of moderate growth, makes it very 
difficult to find buds for propagation without sacrificing 
some of the coming blooms. A good show Rose in a 
Tea box, when it can be got fine, but much less seen 
of late years. 

Souvenir eh Theresc Levet (Levet, 1882). — Of pretty 
good growth and foliage, especially as a standard, late 
in blooming and fairly hardy. This Rose is remarkable 
for its colour, which is a deep, dull, and sometimes 
blotchy crimson, forming a great contrast to the bright 
light colours common to the rest of this section. The 
blooms do not often come perfect, but are fine when 
they do, and very lasting. If the colour was bright, 
pure, and velvety, it would be much better, but as it is 
it does not show well against the pure whites pinks 

x 



306 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



and yellows of its sisters in a stand of Teas. Perhaps 
it ought to be more cultivated, but most fanciers of Tea 
Roses seem half ashamed of it, as if it had no business 
to be dark red, and it is not in general highly esteemed. 
Note, there is a Therese Levet, a pink H.P. of ordinary 
quality. 

Souvenir cVun Ami (Defougere, 184G). — A grand old 
Tea Rose, of strong, healthy, vigorous growth with extra 
fine foliage. This is one of the hardiest of the show 
Teas, doing well on light soil, and fairly as a dwarf but 
much better as a standard : a free bloomer and a 
capital autumnal, and the blooms generally come well, 
of fine shape, substance, and petal, the largest size and 
good lasting qualities. The principal fault is that the 
flower soon loses colour and is apt to look dirty, but it 
is deservedly a general favourite for all purposes. 

Souvenir clc S. A. Prince (Prince, 1889), syn : The 
Queen. — This is a pure white sport from the last-named, 
and very valuable as giving us a really white Rose 
of good pointed form. In habit and general manners 
it is the same, but I cannot get the blooms to come as 
large as those of the type. 

Sunset (Henderson, 1883). — A sport from Perle des 
Jardins, of the same colour as Reve d'Or : a handsome, 
useful, strong-growing Rose, with foliage of a beautiful 
red colour in the spring. It comes a little better shaped 
than its progenitor, and is a very good autumnal, but 
the blooms are always small compared with the size 
and stoutness of the shoots, and the plant is tender to 
frost. 

Triomjphe cle Benncs (Lansezeur, 1837). — This old 
Noisette is a fair grower but not strong enough for 
anything but a low wall. The wood and habit are 
very characteristic, and it is tender and easily killed 




Tea-Rose, The Bride. 



To face p. 307. 



XII 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 



307 



by frost. The blooms require a good deal of heat and 
to be protected from rain ; they are very fine when you 
get them good, of perfect pointed shape, with very sweet 
scent, and are capable of reaching a full average size. It 
is quite good enough to show in any company when 
grown at its best, but we never see it, and this, the 
finest shaped of all the Noisettes with the exception 
of Marechal Niel, does not appear in the N.R.S. 
catalogue at all. It is certainly difficult to grow 
well, and has probably been more often spoken of than 
seen during its existence of more than half a century. 

The Bride (May, 1885). — A pure white sport from 
Catherine Mermet, of great value. It speedily took 
a high rank, and gained a great reputation, quite equal 
to that of the type, and is generally acknowledged as 
being one of the best half-dozen. It is similar in every 
respect except colour to C. Mermet, especially in the 
incomparable form which is common to both. A slight 
greenish-lemon tinge sometimes pervades the inner 
petals, and gives an additional charm. The light colour 
renders it a little more liable to injury from thrips or 
rain. 

Waoan (Wood and Co., 1891). — Another sport from 
Catherine Mermet, also from America. Not yet suffi- 
ciently tested, but at present it does not often come 
good. The Bride being so successful, we expect much 
from the two other American sports from the same Rose, 
Waban and Bridesmaid, but the one under notice has 
not hitherto been often seen to advantage. 

William Allen Richardson (Ducher, 1878). — A 
Noisette of good strong growth, but not quite so vigorous 
a climber as some others of the section. This is a 
Rose that very soon gained a great reputation purely 
by its colour, which is a real orange, a shade till then 

x 2 



308 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. XII 



unknown in Roses, and even now only to be found in 
the centre of two or three others. It is quite small, 
and only suitable for button-holes and decorative use 
being more valued and generally grown for the former 
purpose perhaps than any other Rose. In shape it 
generally comes well, but it has a disappointing habit, 
which must often have caused annoyance. The 
blooms often come practically white, with no trace 
of orange, except perhaps at the very base of 
the petals ; but about the time that the nurseryman who 
supplied it has received an indignant letter of complaint, 
the buyer on passing by the plant sees a bud coming 
of the true colour. For a while they will all come of 
deep orange, or orange tipped with white, and then 
some come perhaps nearly white again. Often the 
weakest shoots produce the highest coloured flowers, but 
this does not seem to be a general rule. This lovely and 
favourite Rose should be grown in quanitity, in the open, 
against walls, and under glass. It is free-blooming, 
pretty good as an autumnal, and does well as a dwarf, 
but should be well treated in rich soil, and requires 
protection from frost. 



CHAPTER XIII 



SELECTIONS 

This must always be the most unsatisfactory part of 
a Rose-book, both to the author and the reader. In 
the first place, the compiler of a selection feels, or 
ought to, that he has at least one or two favourites 
which he places in a higher position than most of his 
brother Rosarians do, and that there are perhaps as 
many popular sorts that he does not succeed with. His 
own situation, soil, or climate has probably more to do 
with this, in most cases, than actual personal pre- 
dilections. 

Next, a certain number of new Roses, issued within 
the last three years, have to be dealt with ; and, their 
quality and characters being not yet established, it is 
difficult to know what to do with them. Great mis- 
takes, either way, may be made in attempting to rank 
them too soon, but on the other hand it seems im- 
possible to ignore notable issues. I have therefore 
only included varieties sent out later than 1891 where 
there seems to be a character already established. 

And also no one who makes a selection of Roses can 
shut his eyes to the fact that such a list, especially if 
given in order of merit, must be of very ephemeral 
value. New Roses,, working their way to the front, noi^ 



310 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



only take the places of established favourites, but 
sometimes entirely supersede them and cause them to 
drop out altogether. Thus, Madame Lacharme, at one 
time the best white H.P., was made absolutely useless 
by the coming of Merveille de Lyon, and will probably 
soon drop out of the catalogues altogether. 

Roses Suitable for Exhibition. — In these lists it should 
be noticed that weakness of growth or constitution, or 
in fact any bad manners, are not taken into account. 
Chapter XII. should be consulted on such matters, for 
in the two following selections the merits of the per- 
fect bloom when once attained are alone taken into 
consideration. 

Forty-eight H.P.s. — I have endeavoured to range these 
according to order of merit as show Roses, in lots of 
twelve, thus showing also at the same time the best 
twelve, twenty-four, and thirty-six. I have included 
La France, Captain Christy, and Lady Mary Fitz- 
william, which the N.R.S. at present reckon as H.T.s., 
and Mrs. Paul, Hybrid Bourbon. The list is not entirely 
according to my own fancy, but considerably influenced 
by the opinions of others. 



1. Horace Yernet 

2. Mrs. John Laing 

3. A. K. Williams 

4. Her Majesty 

5. Charles Lefebvre 

6. Alfred Colomb 

7 . Madame Gabriel Luizet 

8. Marie Baumann 

9. Gustave Piganeau 

10. Susanne M. Rodocan- 
achi 

1 1 . La France 

12. Ulrich Brunner 



13. Etienne Levet 

14. Duchess of Bedford 

15. Pride of Waltham 

16. Francois Michelon 

17. Eugenie Terdier 
(Marie Finger) 

18. Duke of Wellington 

19. Dupuy Jamain 

20. Merveille de Lyon 

21. Prince Arthur 

22. Duke of Edinburgh 

23. Louis van Houtte 

24. Earl of Dufferin 



XIII 



SELECTIONS 



311 



25. Duchesse de Morny 

26. Marie Yerdier 

27. Le Havre 

28. Reynolds Hole 

29. Xavier Olibo 

30. Countess of Oxford 

31. Baroness Rothschild 

32. Victor Hugo 

33. Camille Bernardin 
31. General Jacqueminot 

35. Lady Mary Fitzwil- 

liam. 

36. Comte de Raimbaud 



37. Jeannie Dickson 

38. Marie Rady 

39. Fisher Holmes 

10. Madame Victor Ver- 
dier 

11. Beauty of Waltham 

42. Senateur Vaisse 

43. Mrs. Paul 

44. Captain Christy 

45. Marquise de Cast el- 

lane 

46. Maurice Bernardin 

47. Madame Eugene Ver- 
dier 

48. Heinrich Schultheis 



Twenty-four Teas and Noisettes, by sixes, in order of 
merit. 



1. Souvenir d'Elise Var- 

don 

2. Catherine Mermet 

3. Comtesse de Nadaillac 

4. The Bride 

5. Marechal Niel 

6. Marie van Houtte 



7. Innocente Pirola 

8. Madame de Watte- 

ville 

9. Cleopatra 

10. Anna Olivier 

11. Hon. Edith Gifford 

12. Ethel Brownlow 



13. Ernest Metz 

14. Madame Hoste 

15. Madame Cusin 

16. Souvenir d'un Ami 

1 7. Niphetos 

18. Francisca Kruger 

19. Souvenir de S. A. 
Prince 

20. Princess of Wales 

21. La Boule d'Or 

22. Madame Hippolyte 
Jamain 

23. Jean Ducher 

24. Caroline Ivuster 



Twelve Hybrid Teas. — The subjoined seem to me to be 
the best of this class at present for exhibition, but I 



312 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



must repeat that I think the classification of the X.R.S. 
on this point is a mistake. 



La France 

Lady Mary Fitz- 
williani 

Viscountess Folke- 
stone 

Caroline Test out 
La Fraicheur 
Captain Christy 



10. 

11. 
12. 



Grace Darling 
Kaiserin Augusta Vic- 
toria 

Augustine Guinoisseau 
Lady Henry Gros- 
venor 

Gloire Lyonnaise 
Duchess of Albany 



Germaine Caillot, a fine show Rose, worthy of a place 
among the above, seems to me like a Hybrid Tea, but 
it is not classified as such vet bv the X.R.S. 



For Middle Hons. — Where the H.P.s and Teas are 
grown, as recommended, in long beds with three rows 
in each, it is advisable, whether standards or dwarfs be 
used, to know which will be tall enough in growth to 
be suitable for the middle row. For such a purpose 
I recommend of exhibition H.P.s the following thirty 
of those in the X.R.S. catalogue : — 

Thirty H.P.s tali enough hi growth for a middle row. 



Abel Carriere 
Alfred Colomb 
Annie AVood 
Camille Bernardin 
Charles Darwin 
Charles Lefebvre 
Countess of Rosebery 
Dr. Andry 
Duke of Edinburgh 
Duke of Teck 
Dupuy Jamain 
Ella Gordon 



Francois Michelon 
General Jacqueminot 
Heinrich Schultheis 
Her Majesty 
John Stuart Mill 
La France 

Madame Gabriel Luizet 
Madame Isaac Periere 
Madame Victor Verdier 
Margaret Dickson 
Marie Rady 
Mrs. John Lainor 



XIII 



SELECTIONS 



313 



Mrs. Paul Thomas Mills 

Prince Arthur Ulrich Brunner 

Reynolds Hole Yiolette Bowyer 

And of exhibition Teas and Noisettes, omitting those 
of Dijon growth, the following twelve : — 

Anna Olivier Madame Lambard 

Caroline Kuster Madame Margottin 

Jean Ducher Marie van Houtte 

Jules Finger Perle des Jardins 

Madame Hippolyte Jamain Souvenir de S. A. Prince 

Madame Hoste Souvenir d'un Ami 

Climbing Eoscs. — These may be required for walls, 
pillars, arches, rough fences, or even an untidy old tree- 
trunk which it may be desired to hide. There is some 
difficulty in making a selection for a wall not facing- 
north, because of course all Roses of sufficiently strong 
growth will do in such a position, while the few that 
really require a wall are by no means always the best. 
Thus the Macartneys and Musk Roses will only do on a 
warm wall, but who, if he had room but for one would 
have either of them, or even a Banksian, where he could 
grow a Marechal Niel ? I have tried therefore in the 
following selection to place climbers for walls in order of 
merit, that the small grower may have some guide, as 
well as he who requires a " large order." 

Twelve fioses for a wall. 

1. Marechal Niel 7. Lamarque 

2. Reve d'Or 8. Kaiserin Friedrich 

3. Turner's Crimson 9. Madame Berard 

Rambler 10. William Allen Rich- 

4. Gloire de Dijon ardson. 

5. Reine Marie Henri- 11. Waltham Climber (1 

ette. or 3) 

6. Bouquet d'Or 12. Cheshunt Hybrid 



314 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



All the above are very vigorous groAvers, autumn 
blooming, with large full flowers. All other climbers, 
with the exception perhaps of the climbing sports of 
Niphetos and Perle des Jardins which I have not seen on 
outside walls, and climbing Devoniensis whose manners 
are not satisfactory, are deficient either in growth, 
autumnal qualities, size, or fulness of flowers. In the 
above list there is much diversity of merit, and Turner's 
Crimson Rambler, which alone has small flowers though 
the truss is very large, is not proved, but seems likely to 
take such a high place. It seems impossible to omit 
William Allen Richardson from such a list, but it has 
less vigour than the others mentioned. 

Pillar Roses are seldom satisfactory ; they are generally 
half-starved, being often passed over as capable of look- 
ing after themselves when the food supplies are being 
carried round. Any of the hardy stiff sorts of climbers 
will do for this purpose, the Gloire de Dijon race, Reve 
d'Or, Reine Marie Henriette, Bouquet d'Or, Waltham 
Climbers, Cheshunt Hybrid, Gloire de Margottin, and 
such of the climbing sports of H.P.s as are really extra 
vigorous in growth. The Hybrid Bourbons, Charles 
Lawson, Coupe d'Hebe, and others of that class will also 
serve the purpose of pillar Roses, but I recommend no 
summer Rose where a perpetual will succeed. Half- 
climbers, like William Allen Richardson, LTdeal, 
Celine Forestier, and others of a like strength of 
growth, have not sufficient vigour for pillar Roses, save 
under exceptionally good treatment. 

For arches also one often sees varieties used which are 
not of sufficiently vigorous growth. The Gloire de Dijon 
race are rather too stiff for this purpose. Turner's 
Crimson Rambler may probably be found very effective 
or this and many other uses; Reve d'Or and Reine 



xiii SELECTIONS 315 

Marie Henriette may perhaps succeed, if care and 
trouble in training and feeding can be given to them ; 
but if the arch is high and wide, recourse must be had 
to some of the many running summer Roses, the best of 
which will be found noted under their respective classes 
in Chapter II. 

The same sorts, Ayrshire and Evergreen, Boursault 
and Multiflora, with the climbing single forms of Poly- 
antha, are the best for hiding rough places. Bennett's 
Seedling, Dundee Rambler, Felicite Perpetue, Queen of 
the Belgians, Ruga, and Splendens are among the best 
known. After giving the leading shoots the right 
direction for two or three years, no more care will be 
required ; the whole space will become a mass of foliage, 
most thickly covered with bloom for a while at mid- 
summer. At my old home the whole of the roof of a large 
and lofty summer-house was completely hidden outside a 
foot or so deep with the growth of some of these Ayrshires, 
which were planted against and trained up the front 
pillars. These sorts, with naturally trailing shoots, are 
also the most suitable for weeping Roses. 



For cottage gardens, or any places where some show of 
Roses is required without much attention being paid to 
them, choice should be made from the hardiest and most 
free-flowering of those mentioned in Chapter XII. I 
subjoin, however, a list of 

Twelve H.P.s for cottage gardens. 

Abel Grand La France 

Alfred Colomb Madame Isaac Pereire 

Dupuy Jamain Mrs. John Laing 

Edouard Morren Paul Neyron 

John Hopper Thomas Mills 

Jules Margottin Ulrich Brunner 



316 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



(HAP. 



When once established, Roses on the seedling briar 
stock are best where they are likely to be neglected, but 
most of those in the above list will do fairly on their 
own roots. 

Only strong growing and thoroughly hardy Teas and 
Noisettes can be recommended for this purpose, such 
as Gloire de Dijon, Homere, Reve d'Or, and Safrano or 
Madame Charles. 

Of these, Gloire de Dijon and Reve d'Or would also 
do as cottage climbers, but the trailing habit of the 
Ayrshires makes them more suitable than stiff- wooded 
Roses for situations where they are likely to be left 
unpruned and untrained. 

For the pegging-down system of training, Roses 
should be free-flowering and strong, yet fairly pliable in 
growth ; but some of the stiffer ones can be bent down 
if it be done gradually as thev otow. 

Twelve H.P.s for pegging down. 

Camille Bernardin La France 

Duke of Edinburgh Mrs. John Laing 

Duke of Teck Prince Arthur 

General Jacqueminot Prince Camille de Rohan 

Gloire de Margottin Thomas Mills 

John Stuart Mill Tiolette Bo^vyer 

Moss Roses are sometimes trained in this way. Anion o- 
Teas, the hardiest and most pliable of the Dijon race 
are suitable, some of the most vigorous among the 
button-hole varieties such as William Allen Richardson 
and LTcleal, and perhaps Marie van Houtte, Caroline 
Kuster, and Madame Lambard. In choosing sorts with 
pliable shoots for this mode of culture, it should be 
remembered that a stiff flower stem is desirable, for 



XIII 



SELECTIONS 



317 



pendent blooms do not display their beauty and are 
sadly liable to be splashed by heavy showers. 

For button-hole Roses, as for exhibition kinds, beauty 
of form should not be neglected, as it sometimes is, for 
mere colour, though a combination of both is most 
desirable. A round fat bud is much less elegant than 
a long, slender and pointed one. In this respect the 
Teas have a decided advantage, but if a bright red or 
really dark bud is desired, the H.P.s must be called 
upon. The following would be useful as 

Six bright or dark H.P.s for button-holes 

Duke of Edinburgh Gloire de Margottin 

Fisher Holmes Prince Camille de Rohan 

General Jacqueminot Victor Hugo 

Twenty-four Teas and Noisettes for button-holes. 

Amazone Madame Chedane Gui- 

Anna Olivier noisseau 

Catherine Mermet Madame de Watteville 

Cleopatra Madame Falcot 

Dr. Grill Madame Hoste 

Francisca Kruger Marechal Niel 

Homere Marie van Houtte 

Innocente Pirola Niphetos 

Isabella Sprunt Rubens 

LTdeal Safrano 

Luciole The Bride 

Ma Capucine William Allen Richardson 

Madame Charles 

All the above are lovely in the bud, for wearing 
either singly or together. A choicer selection can 
be made by referring to their characteristics in 
Chapter XII. 



318 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



Of Moss Roses, the best for wear are the common 
Moss, which is pink, and Blanche Moreau, which is 
white. These are summer blooming only, the per- 
petual forms of the Moss Rose being slightly inferior. 

For very delicate, miniature, and artistic button- 
holes the Polyanthas are unrivalled. 

Six Polyanthas. 

Anne Marie de Mon- Ma Pacquerette 

travel Mignonette 
Cecile Brunner Perle d ? Or 

Gloire des Polyantha 

In giving a selection of Roses suitable for pot culture 
and forcing (see Chap. X.), it should be noticed that 
" good under glass," or " a good pot Rose," as a cata- 
logue description may sometimes mean simply that the 
variety will not do out of doors, and it must not 
necessarily be inferred that it is better for that purpose 
than others which also do well in the open air. 

Tiv&nty-four H.P.s and H.T.s for pots and forcing. 

Alfred Colomb Kaiserin AugustaVictoria 

Baroness Rothschild La France 

Beauty of Waltham Lady Mary Fitzwilliam 

Caroline Testout Madame Gabriel Luizet 

Charles Lefebvre Merveille de Lyon 

Dr. Andry Mrs. John Laing 

Duke of Edinburgh Pride of Waltham 

Duke of Teck Prince Camille de Rohan 

Dupuy Jamain S. M. Rodocanachi 

Fisher Holmes Ulrich Brunner 

General Jacqueminot Viscountess Folkestone 

Gustave Piganeau Victor Hu^o 



The Teas and Noisettes are so specially suited for 



XIII 



SELECTIONS 



319 



pot culture and forcing, that I have named an equal 
number of them. 



Twenty-four Teas and Noisettes for the same purpose. 



Anna Olivier 
Caroline Kuster 
Catherine Mermet 
Cleopatra 

Comtesse de Is adaillac 
Ernest Metz 
Ethel Brownlow 
Edith Gifford 
Innocente Pirola 
Madame Falcot 
Madame Hoste 
Madame Lambard 
Madame de Watteville 



Marechal Niel 

Marie van Houtte 

Medea 

Niphetos 

Perle des Jardins 

Rubens 

Souvenir d'un Ami 
Souvenir d'Elise Vardon 
Souvenir de Gabrielle 

Drevet 
Souvenir de S. A. Prince 
The Bride 



In making a selection of varieties suitable for culture 
in a suburban or town garden, there is considerable 
difficulty without knowing the actual circumstances of 
the situation. It may vary from that of a small 
country town, or distant and pure suburb of London, 
in which case if other matters be favourable the best 
Roses may be grown, to that of a real town garden in a 
thoroughly smoky atmosphere, where none can be 
cultivated to perfection. I have consulted some good 
suburban growers, but their lists do not at all agree, 
the probability being that where good Roses can be 
cultivated at all, most of the best sorts will answer. 
It seems, however, to be generally admitted that the 
Austrian briars are as impatient of impure air as any 
Roses. 



320 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. Xlli 



Twenty-four H.P.s suitable 

Alfred Colomb 
A. K. Williams 
Baroness Rothschild 
Charles Lefebvre 
Duke of Edinburgh 
Duke of Wellington 
Dupuy Jamain 
Dr. Andry 
Etienne Levet 
Eugenie Verdier 
General Jacqueminot 
Gustave Piganeau 



'or « suburban garden, 

Her Majesty 
La France 

Madame Gabriel Luizet 

Marie Baumann 

Marie Verdier 

Mrs. John Laing 

Mrs. Paul 

Pride of Waltham 

Prince Arthur 

S. M. Rodocanachi 

Ulrich Brunner 

Victor Hugo 



If any of the delicate Teas can be grown, the list in 
order of merit should be consulted ; and if not, the 
hardier sorts, as recommended for cottage gardens, 
should be tried as a commencement. 



CHAPTER XIV 



CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS. 

In the following list of Rosarian work for each month 
I have not repeated the details of each operation, but 
merely noted the times when they are to be performed. 
This is often important, as delay and loss of opportunity 
will frequently leave a mark on the work throughout 
the year. A novice should study some such calendar 
as this, see how much work he has to get through in a 
given time, and make his arrangements accordingly. 
It will be seen that a large collection will supply 
sufficient work to keep a man " out of mischief " pretty 
nearly all the year round. 

Octoher. — By general consent this is considered the 
first month of the Rosarian's year. Nurserymen's 
catalogues for the coming season are now to be had, 
and they are eagerly scanned by ardent amateurs. 
Orders should be given as soon as possible, and it is 
better still to visit the nurseries in the early autumn 
and choose and order the finest specimens. It is rather 
hard on those who go by the catalogues, but first come 
first served is a good old rule of trade, and it is right 
that those who take trouble about a thing should reap 
some benefit from it. If new beds are to be made, or 
planting on an extensive scale is to be undertaken, 



322 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



preparations should have commenced even in September, 
in procuring fresh soil and digging the beds out to the 
depth of two feet. It should be pushed on at any rate 
early in October. Pot Roses for growing under glass 
should now be repotted, and fresh ones purchased if 
necessary. Many of the free-blooming Teas, now covered 
with buds, will open them indoors at a time when 
they will be much appreciated. But beware of too 
much heat when the amount of daylight is small. This 
is the month for taking cuttings out of doors : those of 
the Roses themselves do better if the leaves have not 
fallen, and these, if used at all, had better be taken 
first. Manetti and briar cuttings will do as well without 
the leaves. All extra long shoots of Roses should now 
be shortened sufficiently to diminish the wind leverage 
on the roots ; these pieces may be used as cuttings. 
Towards the end of the month a commencement in 
planting may be made with those Roses which have 
simply to be moved from one part of the garden to the 
other. Such may be planted before their leaves have 
fallen, much care being taken that their roots are exposed 
as little as possible ; they should be watered and 
syringed immediately after planting, and will probably 
do better thus than if moved later. About the middle 
of the month fresh cuttings may be taken of briar and 
manetti, and later the rooted cutting and seedling stocks 
may be planted out, but standard stocks will not be 
ready yet. About the middle of the month the wild 
growth may be removed from those budded stocks where 
the buds look weak. 

November. — This is a busy and important month, as 
it is the time for planting, and the work should be 
pushed on whenever the soil is fairly dry, for November 
days are short, and no planting should be done when the 



xiv CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS 323 



ground is sticky. Unpack the purchased Roses carefully, 
and lay them tenderly in the ground when they cannot 
be planted at once. Be careful in each detail of planting, 
for much depends upon it. Stocks of all sorts should 
now be planted also if possible, but there will not be 
much time yet for getting standards from the hedges. 
Where seed is saved it should now be gathered. All 
wild growth is now to be cut away from budded stocks, 
leaving one or two buds on those laterals of the 
standards which have been successfully operated on. 
Roses in pots should be brought into cool shelter before 
severe weather. In northern districts it may be well to 
place the winter protection round the Teas before the 
month is out. 

December. — In most English counties it will suffice 
to apply the winter protection during the first fortnight 
of this month, but dead leaves should have been col- 
lected by the end of the first week in November, and 
bracken should have been cut and set ready, in sheaves 
not in heaps, as soon as it began to change colour. It 
is perhaps best to commence the protection as soon as 
the Rose planting is finished, even though the setting 
out of stocks has to be postponed. They will do nearly 
as well if planted at any dry time during the winter, 
but a severe early frost coming before the bed-clothes 
are on the tender Teas may cause much lamentation. 
Now is the time, on dull damp days, to sally forth with 
the little stock axe and the Grecian saw in quest of 
standard stocks. If no winter mulch is applied to the 
Rose beds, the surface should still be kept stirred and 
loose. Roses for the earliest forcing may be pruned and 
started at the end of the month, and grafting under 
glass may be commenced about Christmas time. 

January. — This is the best month for grafting in heat, 

Y 2 



324 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



though it may be continued in February. In light 
frosts, strong liquid manure may be put on the Eose 
beds, when it will sink in rapidly and in quantity. After 
or during high winds, the Teas may be inspected to see 
that the protective materials are secure, and standards 
should be looked to, as they may have broken away from 
their stakes. Standard stocks may still be got at any 
time when the weather is open. Even in severe frost 
work may be found in digging trenches to discover and 
cut off the invading roots of trees and shrubs Roses 
being forced under glass will now be starting and 
requiring much care, and winter grafting will be in full 
swing. 

Febr uary. — If farmyard manure is used in the soil, now 
is the time to dig or fork it in, but be sure it is thoroughly 
decomposed, or in my opinion it will do more harm than 
good. Still, it supplies the vegetable matter of humus, 
and if the soil in the beds be raw and light-coloured, 
such an addition is desirable if not necessary, but the 
upper portion of the beds should originally have been 
supplied with humus, in old garden mould or the like. 
If no digging is practised, the soil should be well loosened 
by the hoe, as some weeds will probably have grown 
since October. The artificial manure should then be 
applied, choosing a still day when it can be distributed 
evenly. If the weather be favourable at the end of the 
month any arrears of planting may be finished, and 
stocks of all sorts may still be set out ; but Roses planted 
now may require watering in March and April, if the 
weather be dry, till they have got a hold. Cuttings 
should be examined, and those that have been lifted by 
the frost should be set firm again, either by pushing 
them down or consolidating the soil around them. 
Roses on sunny walls may be pruned after the middle 



XIV 



CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS 



325 



of the month, and towards the close we may proceed 
with the summer and hardy garden sorts. Marechal 
Niel and other climbing Roses indoors will be starting, 
and they and all forced Roses should be watched for 
mildew and insects, and will require much care in the 
regulation of air and moisture. 

March. — This is the month for pruning all outdoor 
Roses except Teas, but the second week will generally be 
early enough for H.P.s in northern and midland dis- 
tricts. The Teas should not be pruned yet, but the 
winter protections should be most carefully removed 
towards the end of the month. Do not be persuaded to 
take away the shelter earlier, as the weather is by no 
means safe yet. It is an error to suppose that the 
winter protection forces them into precocious growth, for 
it has just the opposite effect. The same blanket that 
keeps a man warm will also keep a block of ice cold. 
It is true, however, that such shoots as are made under 
the protection grow longer than they would outside 
simply because they are not stopped by frost, but 
these premature growths would have to come off in 
any case. Planting may still be done, with care, but 
watering will probably be required to follow it. The 
roots of all plants moved at this time, whether stocks or 
Roses, should be kept in water as long as they are out of 
the ground. All budded stocks should now be staked, 
and the buds carefully examined, for the grub is some- 
times at work before March is out. If it be desired to 
retard the blooming of Teas, a thick heavy mulch of 
long wet manure laid on now while the ground is still 
very cold will keep the roots cool and to a certain extent 
have the required effect. Be most careful of the 
ventilation of Marechal Niel under glass, and attack 
mildew and aphides when they first appear. With the 



320 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



increased light, Roses in pots will bear more heat, but 
remember that all of them, indoors or out, open their 
finest and best coloured flowers in a slightly decreased 
temperature. 

April. — In most seasons, in midland districts, the 
second week will be soon enough for the pruning of Teas. 
There will be no difficulty in finding Rose grubs now, 
if the signs indicating their presence in the shoots 
and young leaves are known. Maiden shoots and buds 
should be examined the oftenest, as in these cases the 
life of a whole plant is at stake. Suckers will begin to 
be troublesome on all plants, especially on maiden 
standards. Tie up the maiden shoots as soon as possible ; 
if left too long, even though not blown out, they will grow- 
away from the stake, and be troublesome to secure. A 
regular system of hoeing should now T commence on the 
Rose beds, on which no hard crust must be permitted to 
form : one of the simpler and smaller forms of push- 
hoes will generally be found most convenient. If liquid 
manure is available it may be applied, but cautiously, 
and not among dwarf maidens. The pushing buds and 
shoots of pruned H.P.s may now be w T ell thinned ; the 
sooner it is done the better, as rubbing, or even cutting, 
out a great fat shoot leaves an ugly wound which bleeds 
a good deal for a time. See that the shoots left are 
free from pests. Indoors, cut back Marechal Niel, 
climbing Niphetos and the like, gradually as the blooms 
are gathered. The first bloom of the forced Roses will 
now be over, and liquid manure — not too strong or too 
cold — may be administered to those intended to flower a 
second time, by immersing the pots. 

May. — This is the month for insect pests of all sorts. 
The only plan is to go over the whole collection as often 
as possible : I have several times found a large cater- 



XIV 



CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS 



327 



pillar or two in the afternoon on a small plant which I 
had carefully examined in the morning. If a rolled 
leaf be simply pinched you will probably carefully 
squeeze the same leaf again half a dozen times ; it must 
therefore either be picked off or unrolled, and the latter 
plan is best. If several leaf sprays are curled on one 
shoot the enemy will be found in the topmost one, which 
probably show r s the disfigurement least : he is working 
upwards towards the bud, and with inherited cunning 
leaves hispast abodes most manifest, and artfully conceals 
his present one. Be not satisfied with a pinch unless 
you feel him " go squash." Never go up and down with- 
out a supply of raffia about you ; something is sure to 
want tying : the maiden plants should be looked over 
for this purpose very frequently. Do not be satisfied with 
any shoot . till it is firmly and closely tied to a support. 
Raffia does not keep well in my pockets somehow : there 
should be supplies of it ready in places close at hand. 
Tea shoots should be thinned ; harden your heart if you 
want good blooms : early trusses will require disbudding 
before the end of the month. Suckers should be pulled 
out or rubbed off as soon as they appear ; in fact, there 
will now be hardly a plant which will not want a little 
attention pretty frequently. Liquid manure may be 
applied, particularly to those plants which are already 
showing flower buds ; and hoeing, especially after rain or 
liquid applications, must on no account be neglected. A 
further light dressing of artificial manure may be desir- 
able if there has been much heavy rain since February. 
Towards the end of the month Teas on sunny walls will 
be in bloom : let them all be cut as wanted, and not 
remain to seed on the plants. Indoors the Marechal 
Niel will have been cut completely back, by slow grada- 
tions as the blooms are gathered, to the original 



328 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE chap. 



horizontal old wood. Pot-plants which have bloomed 
should be hardened off by slow degrees that they may 
be put out in June. 

June. — Disbudding will be in progress for a time, of 
the later sorts. The plague of caterpillars will be wan- 
ing, but those that remain will be far more dangerous, as 
they will now be found attacking the buds themselves. 
The shoots of all flexible varieties should be staked, the 
ties being made pretty close to the buds. Watering 
may be necessary if the weather is very dry, but it is 
probably better to give none at all if a thorough 
soaking cannot be managed. Hoe the next day after 
rain, watering, or liquid manure. Green fly or mildew 
must be met and combated at once. Where thrips have 
been prevalent in former years, or at all events in very 
dry weather, Teas and light-coloured Roses should be 
syringed in the evening until the petals begin to show. 
In dry weather Tea buds may be wrapped in paper 
where intended for exhibition, and the protectors — 
waterproof cones attached to stakes — should be got out, 
overhauled, and placed in readiness. Exhibition boxes, 
tubes, labels, and wires should also be prepared, and 
moss procured, picked over, and laid on the trays in a 
shady place in readiness. Constant watchfulness will 
be required by an exhibitor, as his best bloom may be 
spoilt by a caterpillar, a gust of wind, or even a shower 
of rain, in a few hours. Raffia and stakes for tying, and 
sulphur for mildew, should always be ready where they 
can be got at once. The new shoots of Marechal Niel 
under glass should be thinned and trained up under the 
wires. Forward stocks may be budded this month with 
buds from Roses on walls or grafted plants. Roses in 
pots should have been so hardened off that they can be 
planted out if desired by the middle of the month It 



CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS 329 



is sometimes advisable, to prevent a check, to gently 
break the pot in the hole made and pick out the pieces 
rather than turn the plant out. Those plants which 
are intended for repotting should now be fit and ready 
for plunging out of doors in their autumnal quarters 
Many Roses will be in bloom by the end of the month 
especially the Teas and summer Roses, and the first- 
fruits, often the best and finest, will gladden our 
eyes 

July. — In many districts this is, in average seasons, 
the month of Roses, H.P.s being a little later than the 
old-fashioned Roses of the poets. The last week in 
June and the first fortnight in July are roughly the 
* general bounds of " the season " for the metropolitan 
latitude. Rose shows will be in full swing, and ex- 
hibitors for a time will have enough to do in cutting 
their blooms, and rushing about the country night and 
day to the various shows. Mildew often gets a chance 
now of establishing itself, and hoeing and aphides are 
too frequently neglected. It is harvest time, and the 
details of culture are naturally neglected for a while. 
Still, even before the show-boxes are put away, budding 
will have commenced with Tea buds on standard stocks, 
as these stocks often suffer from a stagnation of sap in 
August, and Tea buds, which cannot always be got in 
sufficient quantity, will stand the winter better if they 
be budded early. 

While the Roses are still at their best, it is advisable 
that notes be made of the colours and good or bad 
qualities of unfamiliar varieties, as even a good memory 
may hold a somewhat unreliable picture of certain 
flowers if they be not accurately judged in comparison 
with others, and the results of observation committed to 
writing at once. Now is the time to condemn certain 



330 



THE BOOK OF THE ROSE 



CHAP. 



sorts for weeding out, and to determine to grow more 
of others. If it be found that some sort does better in 
a certain situation or on a particular stock, especial 
notice should be taken of the fact. The foundations 
of a good deal of work for the rest of the year may 
depend upon a few days' observation. All flowers 
should be cut as soon as they are faded, if not before, 
as only the very earliest would be available for seed. 
Mildew is now likely to be very troublesome, and 
vigorous efforts should be made to keep it under. 
Hoeing should not be neglected, or watering if the 
weather is very dry, but no more liquid manure should 
be used. Pot Roses should not be neglected, and 
though they will require but little water, they must 
be watched for aphides and mildew. 

August. — This is the month for budding on all stocks. 
When buds are plentiful and the sap of the stocks runs 
freely, the work should be pushed on as fast as possible, 
for the sooner it is done the better will be the chance 
for rebudding in three or four weeks' time the stocks 
that have failed. Layering may be done in this month, 
and summer cuttings of Roses struck in bottom heat. 
Watering and hoeing seem the only remedies for rust, 
the autumn stage of the orange fungus. There is 
plenty of time for this, and for seeing that aphides do 
not get a footing anywhere for the man who does not 
bud his own Roses ; but he who does this in any 
quantity will generally find his hands full, for the mere 
settling how many, of what varieties, on which stocks, 
in what situation, he shall bud will require plenty of 
consideration and arrangement. 

September. — Budding on briars should be finished 
during the first week, but manettis may still be budded 
a little later. Roses for forcing should be kept at rest. 



XIV 



CALENDER OF OPERATIONS 



331 



Marechal Niel under glass will now probably be growing 
very fast, and should be kept tied up, and watched for 
mildew. Wall Roses may require nailing or otherwise 
fastening up, as they grow rapidly during this month 
There will be beautiful Roses in abundance out of doors, 
among which, if the weather be dry, Teas will be pre- 
eminent : but in spite of this I should strongly advise 
the hard-worked Rosarian now to take a holiday, for if 
he does not I do not know when he will get one, unless 
it be during the snows and frosts of Christmas and 
January. 



INDEX 



PAGE 



Analysis, of soil and Rose 

ash 78 

Ants 151 

Aphides 148 

April, work for 326 

Arches, Roses for . . . . 314 

Arrangement, of Rose beds . 46 
of blooms for 

show 205 

Artificial manure 77 

August, work for 330 

Austrian Briars 18 

Ayrshire Rose 19 

Bamboo stakes 132 

Banksian Rose 21 

Beds, shape of 45 

preparation of . . . 48 

Black grub 144 

Blooms, shapes of .... 188 

faults of 214 

Boring insects .... 147, 148 

Bourbon Rose 23 

Boursault Rose 20 

Boxes for exhibition ... 195 

Bracken, for protection . . 58 

Briar, Austrian 18 

sweet 19 

as a stock 102 

seedling . ,105 118 

standard . . . 103 

cutting .... 105 



PAGE 

Budding 106, 119 

Burnt clay 37 

Button-hole Roses .... 290 
selection of 317 

Calendar of operations . . 321 

Caterpillars 1 45 

Chalk soil 40 

Chinese Rose 23 

Christinas, Roses at ... . 180 

Classification 13 

Clay soil 36 

burnt 37 

Climbing Roses 313 

Colours of Roses 212 

Cuckoo-spit 152 

Cultivation 57, 76 

Cutting for exhibition ... 196 

Cuttings of Roses .... 136 

briar 115 

manetti . , . 117 

Damask Rose 16 

December, work for .... 323 
Depth for planting . . . 52, 54 
Dijon Teas, pruning of . . 95 
Disbudding of shoots ... 92 
for exhibition 93 
of buds . . 98, 191 

Dog-Rose 13, 111 

Drainage 37, 48 



334 



INDEX 



PAGE 

Dressing of blooms for show 203 
Dwarf plants, qualifications 



of good 50 

Earth, burning of ... . 37 

as protection ... 59 

Earwigs 152 

Elevation, advantage of . . 30 

English Roses 10 

growers .... 10, 12 

Evergreen Rose 20 

Exhibiting 183 

boxes for . . . 195 

Families of Roses .... 22 

Fairy Roses 24 

Faults of Roses 214 

Fly, green 148 

February, work for .... 324 

Forcing Roses 176 

Form in Roses 1S8 

Fragrance 185 

French Rose 16 

growers 9 

names 11 

Friends, insect 155 

Frog hoppers 152 

Frost, injury from in May . 167 

remedial measures for 168 
protection against, 58, 167 

Fungus, orange 163 

Garden Roses 27 

Glass, culture under . . . 171 

Grafting 133 

Gravel soil 39 

Gross shoots 91 

Grecian saw 109 

Habits of Roses 213 

Hoe, use of 57, 76 

Hybrid Bourbon Roses . . 17 

China Roses ... 17 



Hybrid Perpetual Roses . . 22 
selection of 310 



Tea Roses .... 22 

selection of 312 

Hybridisation 139 

Ichneumon flies . . . 143, 156 

Increased culture of Roses . 187 

Insects 142 

Iron in soil 82 

January, work for .... 323 

Japanese Roses 26 

Josephine, Empress .... 9 

Judging 206 

July, work for 329 

June, work for 328 

Labels 57 

Larvae of moths 143 

Layering 138 

Lawrenciana Roses .... 24 

Leaves, dead, as protection . 59 

Liquid manure 70 

Lime 81 

Lists of Roses 310 

Loam 38 

Locality 30 

Macartney Rose .... 26 

Manetti stock 102 

Manures, natural solid . . 65 

liquid 70 

artificial .... 77 

March, work for 325 

Marl 41 

Marechal Niel 61, 95 

May, work for 326 

Middle rows, selections for . 312 

Mildew 159 

Miniature Roses . . . . 15, 24 

Moisture, under glass ... 177 

rising in soil . . 56 



INDEX 



335 



PAGE 

Monthly Rose 23 

Moss, for exhibition . . . 195 

Roses 15 

Moths 143 

Mulching 67 

Multiflora Rose 21 

Musk Rose 25 

Names, French 11 

Neglected Roses 315 

Night-soil 69 

Nitrates 80 

Noisette Rose 24, 271 

November, work for . . . 322 



October, work for ... . 321 

Odours of Roses 185 

Old-fashioned Roses ... 183 

Operations, calendar of . . 321 
manual, by ex- 



ample 38, 123 

Orange fungus 163 

Otto of Roses 7 

Packing Rose blooms ... 97 
Pegged down Roses .... 92 
selection of 316 

Pests 142 

Pillars, Rose 314 

Planting 43 

Polyantha Rose 21, 25 

selection of . . .318 

Pompon Roses 15 

Potash 81 

Pot Roses 176 

selection of . . . 318 
Preparation of beds .... 48 
Procuring standard stocks . 108 

Propagation 119 

Protection against frost . . 58 
rain . . 193 

Provence Rose 14 

Pruning 84 

for exhibition . . 84, 93 
roots 51 



PAGE 

Queen of flowers 8 



Raisers, French 9 

English 10 

Red rust 163 

Red spider 173 

Remedies for mildew . . . 163 



orange fungus 165 

late frosts . . 168 

Roots of different stocks . 105 
Rosarium, pattern or shape 



of 45 

Rose progress 187 

Rose-water 7 

Sandy soil 41 

Saw, Grecian 109 

Saw flies 146 

Scent of Roses 185 

Scissors ......... 197 

Scotch Rose 18 

Seed, Roses from 139 

Seedlings 1 40 

Selections 309 

September, work for . . . 330 

Setting up for exhibition . 202 

Shading blooms 194 

Shelter • . . . 32 

Site 28 

Single Roses 26 

Soils, different 35 

Soot 77 

Specimen pot plants . . . 181 

Sports, climbing 271 

Stakes for standards . . 31, 132 

Standards 103 

getting the stocks 108 

Stocks 101 

Suckers, to eradicate . . . 166 

propagation by . . 138 

Summer Roses 114 

Sweet briar 19 

Tall Standards . . . . 43, 112 
Tap roots 105, 118 



336 



INDEX 



PAGE 

Tea Roses 24 

pruning of . . . 94 

selections of . 311, 313, 
317 

Thinning shoots 92 

buds 98, 191 

Thorns . . 109 

Thrips 154 

Town gardens 319 

Top-dressings 66 

Trailing Roses 20 

Training Marechal Niel . . 95 

specimen pot plants 181 

Tying maiden blooms ... 132 



PAGE 

Tying material for .... 130 
Types of Roses 188 

Varieties, habits of ... 211 
selections of . . 309 
Ventilation 175 

Walls for Roses . . . . 33, 313 

Watering 76 

Weeping Roses 93 

Weevils 153 

Wind, danger from .... 31 



THE END 



RICHARD CLAY AND SONS, LIMITED, LONDON AND BUNGAY. 



Carefully observe Christian Name. 



FRANK CANT, 

AVIXXER OF THE 

CHAMPION TROPHY of the 

NATIONAL ROSE SOCIETY FOUR 
times, viz.: 1888, 1890, 1892, 1894, 

CAN SUPPLY 

STANDARD & HALF-ST. ROSES, 
DWARF OR BUSH ROSES, 

Roses in pots of all varieties of 
EXCEPTIONAL QUALITY, at 
.Moderate Prices. 



ASK FOR MY ROSE CATALOGUE, THE BEST EVER 
PUBLISHED. 

C-REFULLY ADDRESS— 

BRAISWICK NURSERY, 

COLCHESTER. 



JCENT. THE GARDEN OF ENGLAND. 



feTfj!, 





KINDLY ORDER DIRECT. NO AGENTS. 



ROSES. ROSES. ROSES. 

Prior's Colchester Roses 

Have won this Season, 1894, 

The Woodbridge Challenge Cup, 
The St. Osyth Challenge Cup, 
1 National Rose Society's Gold Medal, 

1 National Rose Society's Silver Medal., 
And 43 First and Second Prizes at all 
the Leading Shows, 

D. PRIOR & SON, Rose Growers and Nurserymen, 

COLCHESTER, have pleasure in announcing that their Plants are 
the best and strongest procurable of all the leading and best 
varieties of Teas, Hybrid Teas, and Perpetuals, Standards, Half 
Standards, and Dwarfs, which cannot fail to give satisfaction. 
Catalogues post free on application. 



Rose and Fruit Tree Nurseries, 

BUSH HILL PARK, ENFIELD. 



Where the Eose may truly be said to be "at 
home," either in open ground or in pots. 



HUGH LOW & CO. 

Cordially invite an inspection. 



Head Office: CLAPTON NURSERY, UPPER CLAPTON, N.E. 



CELEBRA TED IRISH ROSES. 

ALEX. DICKSON & SONS, 

ROYAL NURSERIES, NEWTOWNARDS, CO. DOWN. 

ESTABLISHED 1836. 



Raisers of the famous Pedigree Roses, which have beeu awarded Six 
Gold Medals, by the National Rose Society, offer strong plants of 

MARCHIONESS OF DOWNSHIRE 

AND 

Mrs. R. G. SHARMAN CRAWFORD. 

The two best Roses of recent years. 

ALSO 

A full collection of all the leading roses in 
cultivation. 

Strong Plants at Moderate Prices. 



DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE ON APPLICATION. 



29 1903 



BENJAMIN R. CANT, 

ROSE GROWER, COLCHESTER, 

WINNER OF THE CHAMPION CUP OF THE 
NATIONAL ROSE SOCIETY SIX TIMES, 

THE JUBILEE CHAMPION CUP TWICE, 
THE CHISWICK CHALLENGE CUP THREE TIMES, 

And this now becomes my absolute Property. 

The most successful Grower and Exhibitor 
for the last 46 Years. 



B. R. CANTS CATALOGUE IS THE BEST 
PUBLISHED— SENT POST FREE. 



The Very Rev. S. REYNOLDS HOLE, 

Dean of Rochester, President of the National Rose Society, 
says .— 

" No Roses in the World can come up 
to those of Benjamin R. Cant." 

The Rev. H. HONYWOOD DOMBRAIN, 

Hon. Sec. National Rose Society, writes : — 
"Benjamin R. Cant is still the Champion." 



f 



